Bismarck by Semorebutts - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 scale - PLASTIC - with MK1 detail set

[semorebutts]

Thanks Lou, no worries,  I know what you ment 

Edited April 4, 2018 by semorebutts

[mtaylor]

Rats... I worked for the wrong company.  Ours accumulated to 30 days.  If you had more, you either had to cash out, give it to someone who needed it, or lose it.  Most folks lost it.  I gave mine to people who needed it as was done when I needed it.

[popeye the sailor]

we have a thing called FMLA  {family medical leave..not sure what A means} ........you have {I think} 21 weeks of leave......paid or not,  I'm not sure {never done it}.

   we get 192 sick days...we pay ourselves through our PTO accruements.   it used to be nice.......if you didn't use any,  any additional time accrued,  would turn into personal time,  which could be used anytime.   Wally has gone through so many changes these past couple of months....the sick time {we will never get to use},  no more personal time,  and the PTO  accruement program is prone to bugs and not very accurate.  it used to be good......now feel like we've been cheated out  

[semorebutts]

Give your sick days to another employee to use?? Wow I like that. 

popeye we family medical leave to.  I think its the law in Massachusetts. I hear you on unwanted changes my union is nagociating a new contract now... hopefully no changes

Edited April 4, 2018 by semorebutts

[semorebutts]

I have finally hollowed out the last of the big blast bags. Heres a peek at how I did it. 

All done,  thats the shavings from just one blast bag.

and finally all 8

Now a trip to the hobby store for supplies.  I think I should prime these big guns I just don't know which primer works good with airbrush as I have never primed. I use tamiya paint so tamiya  primer would be a safe bet I suppose 

Edited April 4, 2018 by semorebutts

[lmagna]

We almost never had to use sick time. Every time we had to work a holiday we received double time, I always took half of those days as comp time. If we had to show up for court or had stand by for court on days off we received 1/2 a day or a full day if we had to show up. I would take those as comp as well. Then any overtime or special duties for city events could also be added to the list. As you can see one could build up comp time pretty fast and it was not uncommon for some officers to have a month or more at the end of each year. We also could give sick time away to another officer. I only did it once when an officer was hit by an drunk driver while making a traffic stop and was standing next to the driver's door. He had both legs broken badly just above his motorcycle boots. The State only supplied a certain amount of workman's comp for recovery and his recovery time went for something over 18 months so he ran out of state money and his available time on his own books. Several of us pitched in some time and covered him until he could come back to work. 

 

Like CDW it was not all that uncommon for guys to retire with as much as one or even two years of comp/sick time to add to their retirement. If they left early though they lost all of their sick time!   

 

Lou

[cog]

Scott,

Tamiya will be fine. I use their rattle cans, especially for larger surfaces

[Cathead]

I'm self-employed; there's no such thing as sick leave. Enjoy it while you got it! Nice work on the guns.

[lmagna]

Eric

I bet you don't have a 40 hour work week either!

 

Lou

[S.Coleman]

Blast bags look excellent. Painting is always abit nerve wracking to begin. Good job.

[semorebutts]

cog I used tamiyas rattle can on the hull. I worry it will be to thick. Im very curious about tamiya surface primer, I hope it airbrushes ok. 

Also the blast bags have some holes in them so I'm going to use some putty to fill the holes.  Then I will brush on "panzer aces white 70.344" and hopefully it looks ok 

[semorebutts]

Oliver is trying to figure out what color is best for blast bags white or black.  Flory models build uses white.... I leave it up to you Oliver!

I matched all the barrells with the correct turrets. 

now to glue the barrells on. Then plastic putty the holes. 

 

 

[cog]

You can dilute the primer, and spray a few layers, if you think it to thickish. That's what I did with e.g. vallejo

 

Turrets looking grand

[semorebutts]

I might have too

[Canute]

The rattle can Tamiya goes down thin; you should be OK.

[popeye the sailor]

if you don't want to use the rattle can,  you can decant the paint into a bottle.   there is a nice tutorial on you tube about this........but I posted a thread here in nautical or shore leave,  how to do it without making a mess.   it will airbrush OK too    and you can thin it if you want  

 

the guns look great BTW   

Edited April 5, 2018 by popeye the sailor

[semorebutts]

Thanks guys. The barrells are now glued. 

off to the hobby store. 

[semorebutts]

So I just got tamiya laquar thinner to use with there surface primer. But I heard the laquar thinner can also be used to thin tamiya acrylics. In fact that its better than the acrylic thinner. Does any have experience with this or know if this is true?

[chj]

I use an 80% distilled water to 20% alcohol mix with Tamiya acrylics that works perfectly for me. Cheaper too!

[GrantGoodale]

If you are airbrushing, Tamiya acrylics can be thinned with standard hardware store lacquer thinner. A lot cheaper than Tamiya thinner. This also works with Gunze acrylics (Mr Hobby). Don't even think about trying it with any other acrylics unless you like a big gooey mess.

[semorebutts]

Ok so im ready to prime. I'm just nervous I've never primed before, I never spayed anything other than tamiya acyrlic out of my airbrush. I dont even know how much thinner to mix in. 

errr its late i will just do it tomorrow. Sorry guys. 

[hof00]

So, a question regarding "Blast Bags" did you drill them using a small drill first or just go with the "Max" diameter?

(This is another one I've got in storage for a "One Day" thing, Inc. Mark 1 Detail stuff.)

My compressor needs a "Tank" to provide some definition.

I've got a 1/350 Tamiya, a 1/200 Part woks one but I think the Trumpeter version is the ultimate.

 

Following your build with interest looks awesome!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

[semorebutts]

Thanks Hoff, It was so difficult because the barrel is tapered the back is much thicker than the front so what I drilled out had to reflect that. I went for the max diameter first , I drilled very very slowly about half way until I felt it was going to break through the sides. then I moved to the smaller drill bit. once the small bit was through the rest of the way I filed the rest sliding the barrel in 20 times to check progress as you don't want to make it to big. just keep in mind this whole thing was super scary and aggravating! the thickness of the side walls in a lot of spots are literally paper thin. Also every blast bag is a different shape. I never want to do that again..wait I still have smaller blast bags for the smaller guns...ugh.

It bothered me so much I would never buy  another MK1 kit again if I know the blast bags have to be drilled out.

Edited April 7, 2018 by semorebutts

[semorebutts]

I basically just primed the barrels which is why I wanted to prime in the first place. 

 I am not a fan of lacquer  or in the enamel at all.  It smells nasty. And suddenly I had no idea how to clean my airbrush. Are usually use rubbing alcohol but all that did was clump up the paint,  so I ended up cleaning it with the lacquer thinner.  After all the paint was removed I  then cleaned with rubbing alcohol . Also does anybody know how long I should wait before I paint a second coat with acrylic?

Edited April 7, 2018 by semorebutts

[cog]

Scott,

 

Every manufacturer has it's own timetable:

this one is humbrols

Paints

• Enamel Gloss Paints: Surface dry 1 - 2 hours, Fully dry in 24 hours
• Enamel Matt & Satin Paints: Surface dry  20-40 minutes, Fully dry in 24 hours
• Enamel Metallics: Fully dry in approx 10 days
• Acrylic paints: Fully dry in 1-2 hours, please allow longer for Gloss and Metallic finishes
• Acrylic Sprays: 15-30 minutes

 

I wait for Tamiya primer to cure in in 48 hours. It all depends on the qty of thinner used, how thick the layer has been applied, and whether it is oil, or water based paint.

If you used the Tamiya primer, I would say give the curing 48 hours ... you shouldn't be in a hurry

Edited April 7, 2018 by cog

[semorebutts]

I couldn't wait. I wanted to paint tomorrow so I had to do some shading tonite. my girl says It looks like somthing that belongs on starwars. 

[mtaylor]

Well... there is a certain theme music I hear when I looked at those blaste... err... guns. 

[lmagna]

DUM DUM DE DUM, DA DE DA DA DA DA DA!!!! (Need sound) 

 

Lou

[semorebutts]

 The guns were supposed to be two-tone gray paint job.  I started by painting the bottom half the lighter gray. 

 Then the barrels the darker gray 

 but then I realized I could not mask off the bottom half with those delicate railings there.  I ended up  painting it all the light gray. 

 All that's left now is to paint the blast bags  and apply some shading. 

[cog]

Tell me Scott, why did you add the shading? It looks as if the grey layers blocked it out, or is it the pictures in which it is not visible (or my poor eyesight)?

There is an other option to mask without sticky tape. You can use a sheet of paper, cut into shape or straight as required, and hold it in front of the area to be masked. Might take some practice in the beginning ... it might do the trick ...

 

Forgot to add:
It's not meant as negative criticism, I know it's easy to comment from the side ...

Edited April 11, 2018 by cog