Varyag 1901 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:75 - Russian Cruiser

[lmagna]

I am almost without words in my amazement! Can you tell me how long it takes to build up a proper thickness and how can you tell before you take them out of the mold?

[KeithAug]

Valeriy, 

 

I have always found the transitional warships of the pre-dreadnought era to be most interesting. if you don't mind I will follow along with great interest.

[Valeriy V]

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

Can you say something about the conditions for the galvano-plastic: e.g. voltage used, concentration of the copper sulfate (?) solution, what kind of anode you used etc. ?

I will try to answer questions as far as the translator and a small stock of my knowledge will allow me.

 

1) Recipe for cooking 1 l. electrolyte for electroforming:
- we part 200 g of copper vitriol in 500 ml of water
- we filter the resulting solution
- add 134 ml. automotive electrolyte density of 1.28
- bring distilled water to 1 l. and mix well

 

2) Deposition Current:
15 mA * S (part coverage area)

 

3) To calculate the time of deposition of copper on small areas:
t = (840 * m) / I
time - in hours, mass - in grams, current - in milliamperes

 

4) Copper precipitated mass:
m = (S * h) * ρ
m -  mass of copper in grams
S - area in cm2
h - thickness in cm
ρ = 8.93 g / cm3 - the proportion of copper

 

5) Any pure copper is used as an anode.

[Valeriy V]

1 hour ago, lmagna said:

I am almost without words in my amazement! Can you tell me how long it takes to build up a proper thickness and how can you tell before you take them out of the mold?

Lou I tried to answer your question in a previous post.
You need to understand that these formulas are needed to start the real process, in the course of work, you will definitely adjust these indicators as your experience becomes available.

[Valeriy V]

14 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

Valeriy, 

 

I have always found the transitional warships of the pre-dreadnought era to be most interesting. if you don't mind I will follow along with great interest.

Keith , I will be glad of such attention from you.  

[Valeriy V]

2 hours ago, amateur said:

That is quite impressive!

Jan

 

2 hours ago, KORTES said:

I had no doubts the the work of such level requires knowledge and skills in many different fields, still what I see inspires fascination and admiration. The work of the Master. 

My best regards, Alexander

 

Alexander and Jean thank you for your attention and feedback!

[wefalck]

Thanks a lot for those details ! And what voltage did you use ?

 

And it goes without saying, of course, the parts are brilliant !

[michael mott]

On 1/10/2019 at 11:10 AM, Valeriy V said:

Work on this project is temporarily stopped. Ironclad  "Peresvet" , scale 1:50. Under the sheet of his hull , length of 2.65 m.

I think I will just go sit in the corner now. That is a lot of brasswork.

 

Regarding your work on the vents (cowls) I am guessing that the graphite becomes one of the contacts for the deposition of the copper out of solution. basically copper plating very thick, on itself.

How long did each one take?

 

Michael

[Valeriy V]

8 hours ago, wefalck said:

And what voltage did you use ?

 

The power source operates in DC mode, so I only regulate the amperage. I set the voltage to maximum and only once, I do not regulate it later.I follow the instructions for the power source, here it is:

 

                                  DC POWER SUPPLY
                                    HY1500-HY1800

DC MODE
1. Turn the voltage regulator clockwise until it stops, and
current control counterclockwise until it stops.
2. Power on the instrument.
3 Connect the positive and negative outputs of the device to
load.
3 Turn the current dial clockwise to set
the official value of the output current.
 

 

 

[Valeriy V]

3 hours ago, michael mott said:

I think I will just go sit in the corner now. That is a lot of brasswork.

 

Regarding your work on the vents (cowls) I am guessing that the graphite becomes one of the contacts for the deposition of the copper out of solution. basically copper plating very thick, on itself.

How long did each one take?

 

Michael

Thank you, Michael! You are a Master of your craft, and I appreciate your attention to my work.

I am very pleased to follow your work. The large scale of the model confronts you with special difficulties, and you successfully overcome them. I have something to learn from you! 

 

Each item spent approximately 8-10 hours in the electroplating bath. The slower the process, the better the detail is obtained.

[michael mott]

Thank you Valeriy for you compliment and for the information.

 

Michael

[Bedford]

Valeriy I've just caught up several pages of this build and all I can do is repeat the praise so many have given.

As for soldering, I'm always trying to convince people that it is not the demon they think it is. I've been doing it for years.

I must admit that I thought my 1/8 scale bullbar was pretty good but you're making me look very amateur.

 

This was all done with 40/60 resin cored solder and a 40 Watt soldering iron and a small gas torch.

 

[G.L.]

On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 9:41 PM, Valeriy V said:

I will try to answer questions as far as the translator and a small stock of my knowledge will allow me.

 

1) Recipe for cooking 1 l. electrolyte for electroforming:
- we part 200 g of copper vitriol in 500 ml of water
- we filter the resulting solution
- add 134 ml. automotive electrolyte density of 1.28
- bring distilled water to 1 l. and mix well

 

2) Deposition Current:
15 mA * S (part coverage area)

 

3) To calculate the time of deposition of copper on small areas:
t = (840 * m) / I
time - in hours, mass - in grams, current - in milliamperes

 

4) Copper precipitated mass:
m = (S * h) * ρ
m -  mass of copper in grams
S - area in cm2
h - thickness in cm
ρ = 8.93 g / cm3 - the proportion of copper

 

5) Any pure copper is used as an anode.

Valeriy,

 

Thank you very much for the explanation but it remains still a bit of alchemy for me. I will have to deepen your pictures and recipe above with some colleagues modeling friends who have more knowledge about metallurgy than me.

[Valeriy V]

2 hours ago, Bedford said:

Valeriy I've just caught up several pages of this build and all I can do is repeat the praise so many have given.

As for soldering, I'm always trying to convince people that it is not the demon they think it is. I've been doing it for years.

I must admit that I thought my 1/8 scale bullbar was pretty good but you're making me look very amateur.

 

This was all done with 40/60 resin cored solder and a 40 Watt soldering iron and a small gas torch.

Bedford, agree with you,  in Russian there is a saying -   "Devil is not so black as he is painted". If you wish, soldering can be easily mastered.

As a flux, I use zinc etched soldering acid.

 

Judging by the photo, your approach to soldering is at a high level.  

[Valeriy V]

5 hours ago, G.L. said:

Valeriy,

 

Thank you very much for the explanation but it remains still a bit of alchemy for me. I will have to deepen your pictures and recipe above with some colleagues modeling friends who have more knowledge about metallurgy than me.

G.L.  , I got all my knowledge of electroforming from the Internet, videos and articles. I added to this my thoughts, ideas and got the technology I needed.

 You can go the same way.  

[ccoyle]

25 minutes ago, Valeriy V said:

I got all my knowledge of electroforming from the Internet, videos and articles.

When I see modelers with impeccable skills such as yours, I tend to (mistakenly, I suppose) assume that they have a day job in a machine or wood shop somewhere. 🙂

[Valeriy V]

Anchor hawse-hole and stiffener.

[Valeriy V]

Cover for anchor  hawse-hole.

[druxey]

Superb metalwork!

[Valeriy V]

Thank you,druxey !  

 

 

 

It's time for the portholes.

The portholes on the Varyag had a visor in the upper part. This visor was cast entirely with the porthole.

[Valeriy V]

I make a visor on the porthole on a lathe. Flaring tube.

[Valeriy V]

I solder together two pieces of tubes. The outer tube is made with flared.

[Valeriy V]

Now I grind off the excess and get the profile of the visor I need.

[Valeriy V]

Then I repeat all my actions 120 times.   

[wefalck]

Excellent strategy. It's a pitty that it doesn't work for various other navies, where the 'eyebrow' was attached separately.

[michael mott]

A great solution Valeriy. Did you form the flair with a steady smooth continuous pressure, and what did you use for Lubricant? It also looks like you formed the metal without annealing it.

 

Michael

[Valeriy V]

2 hours ago, wefalck said:

Excellent strategy. It's a pitty that it doesn't work for various other navies, where the 'eyebrow' was attached separately.

Thank you!

In the Russian fleet there were both accommodation options "eyebrows"

[Valeriy V]

3 hours ago, michael mott said:

A great solution Valeriy. Did you form the flair with a steady smooth continuous pressure, and what did you use for Lubricant? It also looks like you formed the metal without annealing it.

 

Michael

Yes, Michael, the pressure was constant, but very weak and short. Some lubricating oil was used as a lubricant. The tube did not anneal, brass was already quite soft.

 

 

Edited January 29, 2019 by Valeriy V

[michael mott]

Thank you Valeriy.

 

Michael

[Bedford]

Beautiful solution there Valeriy