Varyag 1901 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:75 - Russian Cruiser

[ccoyle]

Just the launch by herself would make a great model.

[wefalck]

Incidentally, I wondered, why no-one mentioned this other brilliant model from the Ukraine, one of the SHTANDART:

 

[Valeriy V]

46 minutes ago, VonHoldinghausen said:

 

Wonderful pictures, thank you!

Do we know anything of the colors of the "dingys" and "lifeboats" of Standart?

The yacht herself was black, but I recall having read somewhere that these were very very dark blue (and white).

Any info on this would be wonderful.

 

Kind regards

 

More photos of "Standard" are here   https://www.flickr.com/photos/149552988@N02/albums

 

About the dark blue color of the boats I know nothing unfortunately.

 

[Valeriy V]

31 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Incidentally, I wondered, why no-one mentioned this other brilliant model from the Ukraine, one of the SHTANDART:

 

Alexey is already finishing his beautiful model and these photos are unlikely to be needed for him.

[G.L.]

1 hour ago, ccoyle said:

Just the launch by herself would make a great model.

I was just thinking the same thing.

[Bedford]

I agree that the launch would be a beautiful model, even better in full size!

 

[Valeriy V]

Manufacturing gears.

[wefalck]

Knurling is an elegant way of cheating in gear manufacturing, if you don't have a milling attachment or a milling machine

 

Here is the set-up I used, but the gears are somewhat smaller:

 

These are the gears as cut off, they still need to be turned on their face.

 

And cutting the rack for training guns on a metal-shaper:

 

 

Edited February 13, 2019 by wefalck

[Bedford]

Very nice thinking outside the square, I would never thought of a knurling tool, I have one but it's diagonal, guess it would make nice helical gears

 

[wefalck]

In engineering one prefers coarser knurls these days, so it is not so easy to find fine enough knurls these days at a reasonable price.

 

Another method on the lathe and without any special tools is the following: stick strip of paper around your chuck or another suitable part on the lathe spindle. This paper should be marked with lines of equal distance and of the number of teeth you want to cut - easy to do with a drawing program on the computer. You also need to put somewhere on the headstock an index mark. Then grind a lathe tool with the desired tooth profile and mount it turned by 90° (i.e. the cutting face towards the headstock) at exactly centre-height. This tool now is operated like a shaper tool on the blank. You would also need to break the lathe spindle, say with a wooden wedge slightly pushed under the chuck. By moving the carriage forward and backward, you can cut one tooth after the other. The gears will not be really functional probably, but good enough for a static display.

[RGL]

You sir, are amazing. I’m loving the build. 

[Valeriy V]

3 hours ago, wefalck said:

Knurling is an elegant way of cheating in gear manufacturing, if you don't have a milling attachment or a milling machine

 

Yes, my gears are imitation.   

Your gears are great and really work ! 

[wefalck]

Not quite  I was also cheating with the burr that did not really have the right tooth-profile, but was good enough to look convincing on gears with a maximum diamter of 4 mm. Since I made them, I acquired a (very expensive, but I am also collecting such tools) attachment (a so-called topping-tool) for the watchmakers lathe with which the watchmakers correct the tooth-shape of damaged wheels. This tool comes with a set of profile cutters for tiny (wrist-watch) wheels. I might use it to improve the wheels I already made.

 

BTW, in Banyan's log on his VICTORIA we discussed another method involving just a lathe to cut worm-wheels (say for winches or the gear-rings for training QF guns) using a normal tap for threading as a gear-hob. The worms then are just turned down pieces of the corresponding screw. This method works so well, that people building telescope-mounts use it.

[archjofo]

Fantastic work!

[Valeriy V]

Imitation bevel gears.

[Valeriy V]

On 2/13/2019 at 1:21 PM, wefalck said:

 

BTW, in Banyan's log on his VICTORIA we discussed another method involving just a lathe to cut worm-wheels (say for winches or the gear-rings for training QF guns) using a normal tap for threading as a gear-hob. The worms then are just turned down pieces of the corresponding screw. This method works so well, that people building telescope-mounts use it.

 This is an interesting method, I will remember it for future work.  

[Valeriy V]

On 2/13/2019 at 9:25 PM, archjofo said:

Fantastic work!

Thanks for your feedback! I love watching your work, she's great!   

[Valeriy V]

Details for poles anti-torpedo networks.

[KeithAug]

On 2/13/2019 at 6:05 AM, Valeriy V said:

Manufacturing gears

Valeriy

 

Did you cut the recesses on both faces of the gear wheel - and if so how? 

Edited February 22, 2019 by KeithAug

[Valeriy V]

31 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

Valeriy

 

Did you cut the recesses on both faces of the gear wheel - and if so how? 

Keith , teeth on the gears are not cut, they are knurled using knurling.  

 

 

Edited February 22, 2019 by Valeriy V

[KeithAug]

Valeriy

 

Sorry I wasn't clear. I understood your method of cutting the gear teeth. What I was trying to understand was the following photograph.

 

You are using your lathe tool to cut the recess on the face of the disc. Did you recess both faces of the disc and if so how?

 

[wefalck]

I actually was pondering the same question. I would use a so called wheel-chuck on my watchmakers lathe, but I assume that Valery doesn‘t have such chucks for his lathe ?

[KeithAug]

2 hours ago, wefalck said:

I would use a so called wheel-chuck on my watchmakers lathe, but I assume that Valery doesn‘t have such chucks for his lathe ?

Yes I agree. My thought was turn up a bar to the OD of the gear with a spigot the diameter of the gear bore - then glue the gear on with superglue, turn the recess and then heat to break the superglue bond. I thought however that Valeriy might have a better plan.

[wefalck]

In fact, the watchmakers use the same technique and have for it what are called wax- or cement-chucks. They are essentially flat brass inserts that are screwed into a special arbor. Traditionally heated shellac was used to stick on wheels etc., but now many use 'super-glue'. Shellac is very brittle and any shearing force may pop the part of the chuck. The CA-bond is likely to be more resilient. I am not very fond of this technique, or I am too clumsy.

 

In the absence of a suitable chuck, I may have taken a short piece of round aluminium bar, taken it into the 3-jaw-chuck or a collet, turned a recess to fit the wheel, and then slotted it, so that it can tighten on the wheel, when the chuck or collet are tightened. When using a 3-jaw-chuck, it would be important to use it in the same orientation as it was made to ensure that it is running true.

 

I should add, that the watchmakers had, as an alternative to the wheel-chuck, for very small wheels also collets that had a shallow recess at the front. I am lucky to have also a set of such collets plus a collection of purpose-made collets with a wide range of shallow recess diameters that came out of a watchmaking factory (presumably).

[Valeriy V]

5 hours ago, wefalck said:

I actually was pondering the same question. I would use a so called wheel-chuck on my watchmakers lathe, but I assume that Valery doesn‘t have such chucks for his lathe ?

I think that in talking about this, but not sure because of the quality of the translation.

[Valeriy V]

2 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Yes I agree. My thought was turn up a bar to the OD of the gear with a spigot the diameter of the gear bore - then glue the gear on with superglue, turn the recess and then heat to break the superglue bond. I thought however that Valeriy might have a better plan.

You are right, Keith. There is a scheme of action a little easier.     

[Valeriy V]

2 hours ago, wefalck said:

 

I should add, that the watchmakers had, as an alternative to the wheel-chuck, for very small wheels also collets that had a shallow recess at the front. I am lucky to have also a set of such collets plus a collection of purpose-made collets with a wide range of shallow recess diameters that came out of a watchmaking factory (presumably).

Having such a set of collets is a dream and a fairy tale!   

[wefalck]

Perseverance in collecting 😏  Your picture above shows the thing I was talking about.

[druxey]

One can occasionally find wheel chucks on eBay under 'watchmakers lathe'. I was able to get two sets, large and small, at different times. However, often the ones you see are either rusted or beaten up.

[Dr PR]

Wow!

 

Valeriy, you have made great progress since I last looked in on this build.