GrandpaPhil Posted January 20, 2019 Share #1 Posted January 20, 2019 What’s the best way to scratch build cleats? thibaultron and BETAQDAVE 2 Quote Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans) 1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark P Posted January 20, 2019 Share #2 Posted January 20, 2019 Hi YT; A cleat in this context is a metal or wood object which is used to make fast (belay) a rope from the running rigging, so that whatever is at the other end of the rope will not move. They come in all sorts of sizes. Think of something like the top of a longhorn steer's skull with the horns poking out to each side, both in a straight line. The rope is passed under the horns, and over the middle, around and around in a figure-of-eight pattern. They were fixed to the ships' sides, to the masts, or to the shrouds (this latter type are called shroud cleats) A cleat is also the name for a small timber batten, used to hold something in place. All the best, Mark P jud, thibaultron, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Previously built models (long ago, aged 18-25ish) POB construction. 32 gun frigate, scratch-built sailing model, Underhill plans. 2 masted topsail schooner, Underhill plans. Started at around that time, but unfinished: 74 gun ship 'Bellona' NMM plans. POB On the drawing board: POF model of Royal Caroline 1749, part-planked with interior details. My own plans, based on Admiralty draughts and archival research. Always on the go: Research into Royal Navy sailing warship design, construction and use, from Tudor times to 1790. Member of NRG, SNR, NRS, SMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur Posted January 20, 2019 Share #3 Posted January 20, 2019 Hi Grandpa, I guess that very much depends on the scale and period you are building. wooden cleats can be done in various ways: miling a strip of wood into the outer profile you need, and sawing off cleats in the width you need. or just forming them one by one froma strip that has the correct width and thickness. metal cleats, I never did one, but I guess that there are also various ways.... Jan BETAQDAVE, thibaultron, GrandpaPhil and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Posted January 20, 2019 Share #4 Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Hey Grandpa, This is the best way I know of to make cleats from scratch.. Syren Ship Model Company ( There are several sizes. This is one example. ) OK, so not scratch.. But at that price, your time is worth a lot more. As amateur mentioned, using the example from Syren, you could shape some stock to that profile, then slice of a piece and shape it accordingly. Metal? Paint them accordingly and call them metal..😂 Edited January 20, 2019 by Gregory gerty, JerseyCity Frankie, thibaultron and 7 others 10 Quote “Indecision may or may not be my problem.” ― Jimmy Buffett Current builds: Rattlesnake On Hold: HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett ) In the Gallery: Yacht Mary, Gretel, French Cannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgdawson Posted January 21, 2019 Share #5 Posted January 21, 2019 On 1/20/2019 at 1:00 PM, GrandpaPhil said: What’s the best way to scratch build cleats? Hi Grandpa Kevin Kenny did a video on this, it's in the ' Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs' section. Canute, mtaylor and BETAQDAVE 3 Quote Mark D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvana Posted January 21, 2019 Share #6 Posted January 21, 2019 I am using Chuck's cleats in the building of the Bluenose, see the latest picture in my build log where I had to alter them according to the plans. Take a look at this picture of the fife rail, and where you have the base legs. GrandpaPhil, BETAQDAVE, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanasis Posted January 22, 2019 Share #7 Posted January 22, 2019 Thanks thibaultron, BETAQDAVE, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote https://www.naftotopos.gr/index.php/el/ There are no bad or good model makers. There are only less or more experienced. In gallery Tsernikoperama - Trechandiri Brachera - Bombarda Sabatiera -Tserniki vessel rigged as Penna - NE Aegean Sea Tserniki -Tserniki of Mykonos Island -Tserniki of Mytilene Island -Trechandiri-schooner rigging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted January 23, 2019 Share #8 Posted January 23, 2019 Use a hard dense wood, cut a pattern, define the lines with files, finish with sandpaper up to 400 grit, apply tung oil. I made all the cleats I needed in my previous boat quite easily. Link to that page https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/9355-24-exploration-gaff-rigged-ketch-by-vaddoc-scale-112-a-tad-roberts-design/&page=8 thibaultron, mtaylor, BETAQDAVE and 1 other 4 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Hercules Steam Tugboat - scratch build from half model lines Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chazz Posted January 24, 2019 Share #9 Posted January 24, 2019 You can use a rotary tool to help in the forming of the small cleats if you use diamond bits or rotary stones...they cut slower and leave a fine finish, especially the stones. And they have curves that fit well to some of the cleat curves. But DON'T use regular steel cutters. thibaultron, BETAQDAVE, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodeater Posted February 4, 2019 Share #10 Posted February 4, 2019 I like to do graceful cleats paulsutcliffe, Richard Griffith, tasmanian and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodeater Posted February 4, 2019 Share #11 Posted February 4, 2019 The template is made of a firm tree. It is led round on a pear lath of the necessary thickness and width by sharply ground pencil. It is cut out by the fret saw with a small allowance. Is improved manually files. paulsutcliffe, JpR62, Altduck and 7 others 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted February 16, 2019 Share #12 Posted February 16, 2019 Actually, it is nearing the time I will need cleats so I sat down today and did a bit of CAD. Maybe this template will help others. The printer settings can be used to scale up or down. The vertical lines are for through bolts/tree nails. cleats.pdf thibaultron, lmagna, GrandpaPhil and 1 other 4 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Hercules Steam Tugboat - scratch build from half model lines Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaPhil Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share #13 Posted February 16, 2019 3 hours ago, vaddoc said: Actually, it is nearing the time I will need cleats so I sat down today and did a bit of CAD. Maybe this template will help others. The printer settings can be used to scale up or down. The vertical lines are for through bolts/tree nails. cleats.pdf Thank you very much, I saved a copy. thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans) 1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted February 16, 2019 Share #14 Posted February 16, 2019 Also, Thank You, I've saved a copy too. mtaylor 1 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted February 16, 2019 Share #15 Posted February 16, 2019 Pleasure! I made a cleat with this template, in the last two photos the cleat had a bit of tidying up sanding and a coat of Tung oil paulsutcliffe, Richard Griffith, druxey and 3 others 6 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Hercules Steam Tugboat - scratch build from half model lines Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 16, 2019 Share #16 Posted February 16, 2019 Nice work. I saved a copy also. lmagna and thibaultron 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted February 16, 2019 Share #17 Posted February 16, 2019 Has anybody ever tried tumbling wooden cleats in a "block tumbler?" If so, how did the turn out? thibaultron and lmagna 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 16, 2019 Share #18 Posted February 16, 2019 I haven't tried it, but I'd think that a tumbler would wipe out a lot detail since it take off the high spots and do nothing for inward curves. paulsutcliffe, lmagna and thibaultron 3 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodeater Posted February 17, 2019 Share #19 Posted February 17, 2019 I am sure, that a "block tumbler" will "kill" the cleats and even the blocks! Be not such lazy! All these details need to be made only manually and with love! It is better to spend couple of excess days, than then to be ashamed of the minute weakness... Nirvana, paulsutcliffe, thibaultron and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomdervikinger Posted August 7, 2021 Share #20 Posted August 7, 2021 I made metal cleats for a scratch build project. thibaultron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomdervikinger Posted August 7, 2021 Share #21 Posted August 7, 2021 (edited) File a piece of brass based on the size and shape. Edited August 7, 2021 by tomdervikinger thibaultron and wefalck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomdervikinger Posted August 7, 2021 Share #22 Posted August 7, 2021 Make a soldering jig. wefalck and thibaultron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomdervikinger Posted August 7, 2021 Share #23 Posted August 7, 2021 Drill holes for nails and clean them with a file and sand paper. wefalck and thibaultron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted August 9, 2021 Share #24 Posted August 9, 2021 Actually the same techniques can be applied to wood, metal, and plastics. I prefer metal or acrylic glass for small parts over wood, as I then don't have to worry about the wood-grain. If you need to have the parts look like wood, it is quite easy to simulate this with paint. I have, for instance, milled the cleat-shape from a suitable rectangular brass profile and then sliced off individual cleats. If you let a spigot protruding from the foot of the cleat, you have something to hold it in a pin-vice for further shaping operations and, of course, for mounting it later on. The same technique works for acrylic-glass, which is easier to shape, but more brittle than brass. mtaylor 1 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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