Zeesboot by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:24 - wooden fishing vessel c. 1876 - small

[Ab Hoving]

Nice boat!

I read in your report that you use white glue for the planking. White glue often causes stains that are very hard to remove and especially show up once varnish is applied. In the days that I worked with pear wood I used epoxy glue, which dries quicker, is easier to remove and leaves much less stains. Or do you have better results with other sorts of glue?

[Mirabell61]

Thanks Ab,

yes, you`re right, I also experienced stains on the wood due to use of white glue. I`m still intending to check with every visible plank (outside) to remove the stains by sanding carefuly. I tried to avoid larger stains by using the white glue sparsely and also because the horizontal overlapping lines will be nailed and quench locked from the inside hull, but that will be done after the inside framework is put in place

 

Nils

Edited June 22, 2019 by Mirabell61

[G.L.]

19 minutes ago, Ab Hoving said:

Nice boat!

I read in your report that you use white glue for the planking. White glue often causes stains that are very hard to remove and especially show up once varnish is applied. In the days that I worked with pear wood I used epoxy glue, which dries quicker, is easier to remove and leaves much less stains. Or do you have better results with other sorts of glue?

 

1 minute ago, Mirabell61 said:

Thanks Ab,

yes, you`re right, I also experienced stains on the wood due to use of white glue. I`m still intending to check with every visible plank (outside) to remove the stains by sanding carefuly. I tried to avoid larger stains by using the white glue sparcely and also because the horizontal overlapping lines will be nailed and quench locked from the inside hull, but that will be done after the inside framework is put in place

 

Nils

I also use mainly white wood glue for modeling. After applying the glue I remove stains with a wet rag. I works well in my opinion.

On the other hand I do not have experience with epoxy. Don't you have to mix two components in an exact ratio an aren't there temperature restrictions to use it?

[Mirabell61]

thank you Geert,

I also used a wet cloth for wiping off surplus glue before it cured on the wood. The point is that the "stains" appeear when liquid wood primer is applied to the areas, even there where one thought that they had been removed........

 

Here is a little removable jig to hold down the rudder from pushing up from the stern hinges

 

In the small baltic shipyard two "Zeesener"fishermen are just inspecting their new boat being built

 

Nils

 

preventer bracket (removable)

 

 

father fisherman..., with the new ordered boat in build...

 

 

 

together with his son, next generation, who will be the new skipper

 

both in scale "G" 1:24

 

Edited September 13, 2019 by Mirabell61

[Ab Hoving]

The problem with white glue is that it intrudes relatively deep into the structure of the wood. Sanding is hardly an option, the stains will stay. Epoxy two-components glue however is easy both to apply and to remove, because It does not go very deep into the wood. I can recommend it. Just mix a small amount of both substances. Because it takes the same quantity of both you will find out that you easily preparere too much, so take care. It dries in 5-10 minutes, holds very good and it is not much more expensive as white glue. It smells though and you will have to ventilate your room. Try it out.

[wefalck]

One could also argue, that the advantage of PVA-glue is that it penetrates deeper and therefore keys better into the wood, while epoxy cements stay more on the surface. The latter are stronger as a material, but do not key into wood so well.

[Mirabell61]

Ab and Wefalk, thanks to both of you,....

the pros and cons (PVA vs. Epoxy)  must carefuly be considered, I`ll try and gain more experience from my side

 

Nils

[Martin W]

The son of the father fisherman has already begun to develop a questionable posture.  That's a good recipe for neck problems down the road! 

[Mirabell61]

I agree Martin,

he had a hard life up to now, so he`ll just make the best out of it, and visit the nearby finess studio regularly, they also do neck-massages there...  .😏

 

Nils

[Keith Black]

Both father and son have developed a bad habit of standing around on bits of wood scattered about on the job site, good way to get a nail through one's boot. 

[Mirabell61]

perhaps they have unequal long legs Keith,

but a bad Habit it is indeed...

 

Nils

[Keith Black]

7 hours ago, Mirabell61 said:

perhaps they have unequal long legs

A family curse, a genetic defect passed down from the grandfather? 

[cog]

On 6/22/2019 at 12:50 PM, wefalck said:

One could also argue, that the advantage of PVA-glue is that it penetrates deeper and therefore keys better into the wood, while epoxy cements stay more on the surface. The latter are stronger as a material, but do not key into wood so well.

What is the advantage of glue penetrating the wood, whilst you want to bond two surfaces to one another. It is not that you need "inner bonding", and neither  - at least to my knowledge - will the penetrated glue give additional strength to the bond, like e.g. tenons would. Please, correct me if I am wrong

[wefalck]

There are four principal ways how a glue or cement connects two pieces:

 

- it acts like a tenon between two parts and in this way locks them together positively; this works for rough surfaces with open structures, such as wood.

 

- the cement/glue displaces the air between two parts and the atmospheric pressure pushes the parts against each other; this works best for large, flat parts and requires a smooth surface, such as metals have.

 

- the glue/cement interacts at a microscopic level physico-chemically through e.g. the Van der Waal's weak interaction

 

- the cement in fact is a solvent and dissolves the surfaces - in the case of plastics, that are effectively welded together.

 

In practice, one may have a combination of two or more of the above processes. For instance, you can dissolve the surface of styrene and press it onto some wood, where the soft plastic keys into the wood structure. Or when glueing metal to wood with epoxy, the epoxi will key into the wood, but the metal is pressed onto the epoxy by the atmospheric pressure. When there is an oxide layer on the metal, this oxide layer may also weakly interact physico-chemically with a glue.

[flying_dutchman2]

Very technical and interesting explanation, wefalck 

 

Marcus 

[Mirabell61]

Next is the swivible centerboard...

 

Nils

template

 

 

reinforcement frame

 

 

board lowered down to max. extent

 

board raised inside

 

 

[ESF]

Nils,

Beautiful work as usual.  Thank you for sharing.  Is the brass one piece, and if so what did you use to cut out the center?  I would think a thin sheet would be devilish to keep flat.

Thank you

Steve

[Mirabell61]

Thank you Steve for looking in, and for your kind words....

yes, its one piece of 0,3 mm thick brass sheet. I cut it out by laying a part of the sheet on a scrap bit of 4 mm plywood, dilling a small hole through Brass and ply, and then cutting out the center part with a jig saw. This way the brass had adequate support from beneath and it stayed relatively flat as well

 

Nils

[ESF]

Nils,

Thanks so much for your quick feedback and clear explanation.  No more floppy brass sheets for me!

Steve

[AntonyUK]

Hi Nils.

Just catching up on MSW and I come across your build.

As per normal you are making a excellent job of the build.. and I love the clinker hull. (Note to self....You gotta try this one day).

 

Regards Antony.

[Mirabell61]

many thanks to Antony,

 

I`m pleased you  like this clinker hull, I am myself happy with the first hull planking over a plug and for using pear wood instead of pine wood, except for those small ships boats made for HMS Pegasus and for the Chebec

 

Nils

[John Allen]

Nils,

 

It's amazing what you can do (keyword you) with a few sticks, glue and brass. Have always been awestruck by your builds. What we have hear is another beauty. Your lapstraking is awesome. KUDOS

 

 

 

[Mirabell61]

John, thanks very much for your nice words,

I`m pleased you like the boat...

 

Nils

[Mirabell61]

Thanks to all the "Likes"

 

The centerboard case is ready for attaching now, a few ribs will be added later on, when it is integrated into deck timbers and to bulkhead with stffening out knees (front side)

 

Nils

 

 

 

 

 

[Mirabell61]

New family member,
after our Ronny (Foxterrier) passed away 7 months ago, due to a stroke from which he unfortunately could`nt recover, we did`nt want to have a new dog again. 
To make it short, the decision did not last long, we missed the house being without any four legged pal......

Here now is our new two months old darling "Caspar", (rough haired Dachshund), puppy pet, since last Saturday, and picked up in southern Germay. There is much life and joy in the house again

 

Nils

 

[G.L.]

A nice little friend you have there, Nils.

[Mirabell61]

Thank you Geert,

yes, he`s a real clever little chap, but it takes much attension at this stage of age to help in learning and during discovering new impressions daily...

 

Nils

[GrandpaPhil]

Congratulations on the new puppy!

[Mirabell61]

thank you very much Phil,

 

Nils

[Keith Black]

Ahhh, how could you not love that little bugger, congratulations!