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Posted
41 minutes ago, James H said:

My only struggle so far was the three-piece black veneer cap over the transom area. Thee veneer was so thin, that even with soaking and nipping, it kept splitting. Those short lengths have to do acrobatics by bending in different directions.

Yep, that wasn't easy step. But still somehow doable. 

Posted
8 hours ago, Peta_V said:

Thanks Jim! 

 

Thanks also for all the comments and likes. It keeps me motivated.

 

It starts to look really great, I love the shape of the ship and all the wooden and brass details. Truly enjoyable built. I'm little bit afraid what I will do after AVOS and RC. Hope MK will release some new gem! 

Master Korabel has a few other kits such as Brigantine Phoenix or Schooner Polotsk. Both of them are great kits and should be no problem to you!

Finest ship kits & fittingshttp://craftysailor.com

Posted

Rudder. You start from the photoetched part that needs to be bent to create a "hook". I have then silversolder the edges and smooth it with file. Blackening and the irons are ready. 

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I have added the eyebolts and decoration of the transom

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And starting preparations of the deck furniture

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Posted

Continueing with the deck details. I added some hatches with Iron work. I have also placed many eyelets but it is still not all. I have also added the supporting knees to the belfry and glue it in the pkacd

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Posted

Windlas assembly. It has pretty complex shape but it is cut to "hundereds" small pieces that creates all the details which makes the assembly much more friendly then carve it from one piece of wood. 

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Posted

Windlas part2. Everything went fine to this stage. Time consuming as there are lot of pieces but smooth process. 

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Until this small detail came. It is so tiny and will be made from 10pieces. Nice test for the nerves :D

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Posted
4 hours ago, greenstone said:

Very good. Assemble the model very quickly!

But why is bell black?

Thank you Greenstone. 

It is my personal choice.I found it distracting leave it in brass when all other irons are black. I do not like colourfull models so that is the reason. Not sure what I do with belaying pins🤔

Posted

Preparation of the route for anchor cable.

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@DPK @greenstone can I ask you guys for advice? There are two pre-drilled holes in the deck forward to the bow from the bell in the same line with other rings for securing the cable. I guess There should be another pair of rings? But it is not in instructions so I do not know if I can use 2 more photo etched parts #18 (are there some spare or the count is exactly for the model?) or should I produce my own? Thanks a lot!

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Posted (edited)

Thank you very much for pointing at these holes. Yes, they were previously designed for holding the anchor cable, but currently they are not used.

I think the best decision is to make the wooden plugs from the remains of the deck holding plate and shut these holes down.

Obviously you can use them as intended, but you will have to count the eyebols first - maybe you should make your own,

I cannot say now, there are different versions of photo etched plates, some of them contain spare eyebolts, some have just what needed.

 

Btw, the kit is out for about 8 months now, but noone has pointed us at this yet!

Edited by DPK
Posted
11 hours ago, DPK said:

Thank you very much for pointing at these holes. Yes, they were previously designed for holding the anchor cable, but currently they are not used.

I think the best decision is to make the wooden plugs from the remains of the deck holding plate and shut these holes down.

Obviously you can use them as intended, but you will have to count the eyebols first - maybe you should make your own,

I cannot say now, there are different versions of photo etched plates, some of them contain spare eyebolts, some have just what needed.

 

Btw, the kit is out for about 8 months now, but noone has pointed us at this yet!

Thanks man, that is what I thought. Similar case would be with inner bulwarks planking.

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Posted
On 8/16/2019 at 7:37 PM, DPK said:

Thank you very much for pointing at these holes. Yes, they were previously designed for holding the anchor cable, but currently they are not used.

I think the best decision is to make the wooden plugs from the remains of the deck holding plate and shut these holes down.

Obviously you can use them as intended, but you will have to count the eyebols first - maybe you should make your own,

I cannot say now, there are different versions of photo etched plates, some of them contain spare eyebolts, some have just what needed.

 

Btw, the kit is out for about 8 months now, but noone has pointed us at this yet!

 

After final consideration, here is the conclusion: the holes for the anchor rope holding eyebolts are OK, the photo instruction lacks the images of the eyebolts installed. I shall fix it soon.

The number of eyebolts 18 is more than enough (at least 4 spare), so just install the pair and use as intended.

 

Posted

@Peta_V , the cleats you are referring to are not used. Currently the inner ladder is intended to be installed in that place.

You can either install the cleats (there are ALWAYS some not-used fastening places on the ships, for situational use) and find another place

for the ladders, or just ignore them and place the ladders onto that spots.

Posted

Back in the workshop with some small progress. 

I have added another pair of the secure rings @DPK's advice. Thanks again. I have finish few final touches on the windlass and secured it on the deck.

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I have experimented with the belaying pins. Luckily There are few spare so I could blacken one to se how it looks on the ship. Still not sure what I will use, if clean brass or black (leaning little bit more for black version). Here is the comparison. What do you think?? 

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Posted

beautiful work Peta,

deck and fitting out is superb...

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted
5 hours ago, Peta_V said:

Still not sure what I will use, if clean brass or black (leaning little bit more for black version). Here is the comparison. What do you think?? 

You asked for opinions so here is one! I like the black much better and I imagine that you will too once you hang some rope coils around it. Perhaps if you had more brass fittings elsewhere the brass would look good but...

Posted

Thanks a lot for all likes and kind comments. Love it! 

 

@Katoom and @Dubz thank you for your opinion, I share the same one as well. I took other 2 or 20 looks at it and black goes much better with other details. I try to avoid the brass fittings which is the next reason for black 👍

Posted (edited)

Boat davits. I'm leaving them in pear wood instead of black colour. I like it more in natural wood. I'm going to simulate the iron bands at the end of each davit once I receive Copper tape. 

IMG_20190823_111405.thumb.jpg.a6e0579a17e5cc92b045aa5ad54fed30.jpgIMG_20190823_111416.thumb.jpg.d651a75cae617e3349ade0be2bfce857.jpgIMG_20190823_111433.thumb.jpg.b3c8d28cbe8873c49d9526861f5c849f.jpgIMG_20190823_111449.thumb.jpg.7b492dacaade9d470eae709b25017b8e.jpg

Simulation with a yawl

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And in its full (almost) lenght

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Edited by Peta_V
Posted

Thanks Jim. 

 

Next are the mast bitts. It is time consuming due to the sending off the char and processing the head and sheaves. It is very small so fun work. 2 already prepared, 2 more to go. 

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Posted

Wunderbar !

very neat work Peta, love it...

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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