HMS Naiad 1797 by EdT - FINISHED - 1:60 - 38-gun frigate

[ianmajor]

Ed,

 

Beautiful work. Many thanks for taking the time to publish it.

[j21896]

Hi Ed,

 

Are your eyebolts also made from 22 gauge wire?

 

Thanks,

Robert

[dvm27]

I also create those sheave slots by laminating. I find that cutting the slot fillers from the same piece of stock and orientating the grain to match, hides the seams nicely.

[EdT]

Robert,

Most of the eye and ringbolts are made from 22 gauge wire and virtually all of the knee bolts. When stretched until breaking, the diameter is about .022" which equates to just over 1 1/4" at 1:60 scale - about right for the stopper ringbolts in the deck, slightly large for the gun hardware. I probably could have used 24 gauge for those (.018" stretched). I used 20 gauge for the main and fore chains and their preventer eyebolts. Those are more like the specified 1 3/8" (.028").

Ed

Edited May 29, 2013 by EdT

[EdT]

Unfortunately, with all the reposts, the build log has fallen a few months behind actual progress.  I just thought I would let everyone know that Naiad  was completed yesterday.  I will however, continue with the step-by-step build log through the completion.  There are about 15 more reposts to do first.

 

Below is a picture of the finished model, returned to where she began, on my drafting table - off my workbench and out of the shop for the first time in over three years.  It looks empty in there without her.  Right now the workbench is being put to use on her case.

 

 

Ed

 

ps.  The "bunker" over the wheel will come off later, just before she enters the case - or maybe for some photos.

Edited May 29, 2013 by EdT

[newbuilder101]

Wow! Allow me to say it again.....Wow!!! Amazing work...absolutely beautiful! I know you will be very, very proud of her, and well you should be!

[Trussben]

A big congratulations Ed on finishing the most beautiful and well documented build of a model ship that I have ever seen, thanks for leading us through this most amazing journey - it's kept my jaw open every time I look at it.

I look forward to seeing the rest of the posts and buying Vol 2 of the book to complete the series.

 

Thanks again Ed.

 

Ben

[druxey]

Hearty congratulations on arriving at the finish line, Ed. It's been a spectacular journey, to say the least! And the result is as spectacular as well. Your model is the epitome of well researched work, carried out to exacting standards. Take a deep bow!

[st george]

Congratulations Ed on producing such a great model. I look forward to reading the rest of the build log.

 

David

[BANYAN]

Hi Ed, thanks for the tip on the hatch framing; another day another thing learned This build log has been an absolute fountain of knowledge and tips/tricks for me - much appreciated.  I am keen to get the next volume

 

cheers

 

Pat

[gjdale]

Let me join the chorus of congratulations Ed. A beautiful model indeed, and your log has been such an inspiration to so many of us. I look forward to the remainder of the posts in this log, and eagerly await publication of Vol 2. Thanks again for allowing us to share this journey with you.

[WackoWolf]

Excellent work. simply beautiful. You have a beautiful ship that you built. Something to be proud of. Thanks for sharing this with all of us.

[Mcdood]

Well done Ed, time to break out the champagne and pat yourself on the back (or your choice of drink, and sadly we can't pat you on the back) for she has turned out to be a beautiful ship.

 

Martin.

[SailorGreg]

Congratulations on this marvellous build. Stunning! I enjoyed following it on MSW 1 and your re-posting has been like meeting an old friend again. I am looking forward to catching up with the most recent episodes. Thank you for sharing this and taking the time to give us all the full build.

 

Greg

[amateur]

We would love to see some more of this beautiful model.

However, we also appreciate your reposting of everything that led to this result.

(actually, whatever you post is appreciated )

 

I will (probably) never do a model like this, but I'm severely tempted to buy your book on this model.

 

Jan

[Pete38]

Congratulations...beautiful...amazing...can't say enough..thank you for reposting you build

[jaerschen]

Congratulation to this great model Ed. It's a dream your Naiad

[EdT]

Thank you all very much. I am sorry to have delayed putting the final weeks of work online, but the "reruns" will soon be over and I can do that.

 

Thanks, again.

 

Ed

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 159– Quarterdeck Breast Rail

Posted 11/3/12

 

The breast rail required small turnings for the eight stanchions. These are 5” (.08”) square. The issue with these is to get the round area centered on the square – and to make the turnings reasonably identical in shape. The first picture shows a turning in progress.

 

 

 

I began these using a four jaw centering chuck with the opposite end on a dead center, but found that the independent 4-jaw chuck set up as shown in the picture gave more accurate results. Once the first piece is centered, loosening the same two jaws to remove pieces then retightening these on the next piece was pretty efficient and held the centerline well. The length of the turned area was marked with dividers then turned by eye with the tool shown.

 

The next picture shows the final set of stanchions.

 

 

 

I turned a dozen or so then selected the most uniform, cut them to length and turned the round tenons on the bottoms in the same lathe setup – but with a square cutter. The next picture shows the stanchions with three blanks for the rails.

 

 

 

Two rails are needed. The third is a spare. These are extra wide at this stage. The holes were drilled on center through a thick piece from which the three rails shown were ripped off – leaving identical hole spacing. The drawing fragment above shows the positions of the two rails.

 

The next picture shows the through-mortises in the lower rail being cut.

 

 

 

First the square was marked out on the rail around the previously drilled hole. A larger hole was then drilled and the square opened out with chisels and a small square file.

 

One of the other rails was used as a template to drill pilot holes in the breast beam as shown below.

 

 

 

These holes were then enlarged to the size of the tenons on the stanchions - manually with a larger bit in a pin vise. The next picture shows the stanchions loosely in place with one of the rails pinned into holes drilled in the top center of each stanchion.

 

 

 

The lower rail was fit and removed before this picture was taken. The next picture shows the stanchions glued to the breast beam, the lower rail fit over it and the blank for the upper rail pinned on top – both temporarily.

 

 

You may notice that this picture also shows the crosspiece of the brace bitts installed and the bitts bolted. This was done following the previous post.

 

The last picture shows the current state of the installation.

 

 

 

Having the rails fitted temporarily allowed the alignment and symmetry of the stanchions to be checked after gluing. When the glue sets, the lower rail, which has been sanded smooth, will be raised up to apply glue then slid back into place with spacers on the beam to set the height. It is a tight fit. When dry the top rail will be attached with bolts or treenails. The ends of the rails will be cut off in place. It feels like there should be some knees supporting this structure but I haven’t seen any examples of this.

 

Ed

[EdT]

In the above post #159, the astute model shipwright will have noticed that I neglected to cut the sheaves in the bottoms of the breast rail stanchions. I corrected this much later by removing the rail in one piece, drilling and then chiseling out the two very small openings in each post.

 

Ed

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 160– Quarterdeck Detailing continued

Posted 11/7/12

 

The first picture shows the top rail of the breast rail about to be glued to the stanchions.

 

 

Raising the rail on the pins to apply the glue avoids problems of finding the pinholes when they are covered with glue. The lower rail has been glued and its height set by the sized blocks set on the breast beam. After the glue had set on all this, bolts were installed in the top rail and the ends trimmed to size.

 

There was still some work to do aft of the wheel. The next picture shows a hole being cut for one of the bitts aft of the mizzen mast.

 

 

These features are all a tight fit in this area, but I have followed the profile draft closely. These bitts will be bolted horizonatlly through the beam. I have some little men engaged to come in and install the bolt under the deck below the hole being cut in the above picture.

 

The next picture shows the rough structure of the companion loosely set in place.

 

 

The bitts are installed in this picture. The companion was built up from eight pieces and in this picture still needs to have these pieces finished off. The next picture shows the mullions and 32 panes of “stone ground glass” installed.

 

 

 

The mullion joinery was cut on the milling machine with the spacing calculated from the opening size. The stone-ground glass was simulated by rubbing a clear plastic sheet with abrasives. I assume the ground glass specified in the contract was to diffuse the sunlight and/or provide some privacy.

 

In the next picture the crosspiece to the bitts has been added along with the decking aft of the companion.

 

 

 

This picture was taken after application of the wax finish to the port side of the quarterdeck. The next picture shows most of the deck at this stage.

 

 

Additional ringbolts have been installed in the deck aft of the companion and in the seat transom for the last carronade port and the port stern chase gun. The sides have not received finish. I will do that after the roughtree rail is installed. I still need to make a decision on pin rails. I believe they would have been installed after the Navy took possession and are not in the contract, but I may install them.

 

The last picture shows the completed breast rail with its fresh coat of finish and the completed brace bitt structure..

 

 

 

This essentially completes the quarterdeck. I now expect to work on bringing the forecastle up to the same state.

 

Ed

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 161– Forecastle

Posted 11/10/12

 

The outer planking on the forecastle had been done earlier. The next step on the forecastle was to install the coamings and head ledges for the two hatches on this deck. The first picture shows these.

 

 

 

The forward hatch has been fitted with a grating. This hatch is directly over the front cooking area of the stove. The smaller hatch will be left uncovered to show the lids on the two kettles below. The area between these will have an iron plate around the stack to isolate the heat from the wood framing. The scuttle for the top tackles abuts the forward hatch. At this stage most of the decking has been installed and treenailed.

 

The next picture shows more of the decking.

 

 

 

In this picture the treenailing has just been completed and parts of the deck are damp from washing off the treenail glue. The hole has been cut for the foremast and the mast ring is waiting to be installed.

 

The next picture shows the full extent of the forecastle decking after all the treenailing, sanding of the deck and installation of the mast ring..

 

 

 

Holes have been drilled for the eyebolts astride the mast ring and for the scuttle ringbolts. The next picture shows a closer view at this stage.

 

 

In addition to the bolt holes mentioned above, this picture shows the two holes for the gun tackle ringbolts – fore and aft of, and just one strake outside the bitts.

 

In the next picture some of the eyebolts have been installed and the unfinished stack assembly is fit over the stub on top of the stove.

 

 

The stack was fabricated from brass tubing with a solid turned reducing section that will be just above the iron plate. The three bits of tubing and the solid reducer were silver soldered together.

 

The next picture shows the completed stack assembly and the iron plate.

 

 

 

The stack has a baffle plate over its opening and two arms to facilitate turning it. The baffle and its brackets were made from a single piece of .01” copper sheet. The small parts were silver soldered to the stack. The lower part of the stack is brass tubing that telescopes over the stub on the stove. The plate will be bolted to the beams.

 

The next picture shows the final installation with the stack and plate blackened and given a protective coat of microcrystalline wax.

 

 

The next picture is a view from the opposite side that also shows the ringbolts in the deck for the guns.

 

 

The breast rails, the belfry, the crosspieces to the bitts, gun ringbolts in the side, plus some final cleanup, sanding and finishing will bring the forecastle up to the essentially finished state of the quarterdeck.

 

Ed

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 162– Forecastle continued

Posted 11/14/12

 

 

The parts for the forecastle breast rail are shown below.

 

 

The long strip in the center will be used for segments of plank under the knees where there is no decking. The next picture shows the stanchions and knees installed on the port side with the rail being used to hold the spacing at the top.

 

 

When this glue on this has dried the rail will be removed for final sizing and drilling of the belaying pin holes. The next picture shows work on the starboard side.

 

 

In this picture the stanchions are just pinned in place with small bits of wire inserted in holes in the breast beam. The first through mortise has been cut in the rail and the position of the next one is being checked.

 

The next picture shows the four posts for the belfry – the next task.

 

 

These were shaped with chisels and files – mostly files of the type shown. But the lines across the posts were first marked with a very fine edge file of the type used to sharpen Japanese woodworking saws.

 

The next picture shows the assembly of one side.

 

 

The three wood parts were end glued in a fixture to hold the squareness and to keep the sides parallel. As soon as the glue was fully dried bolt holes were drilled on both sides and a wire bolt – as shown – was CA glued into each. These sub-assemblies were extremely fragile until the entire completed belfry was installed.

 

The next picture shows the assembled belfry and the bell mounted on its beam with the ringer handle.

 

 

The copper parts in this picture, including the bolts through the posts are about to be turned black.

 

The next picture shows the belfry assembled and installed.

 

 

The four posts are secured into the deck beams with wire pins. This picture also shows the finished breast rails. The next picture shows this area from the forward side.

 

 

You will notice in this picture that there are no bolts holding the iron plate for the stack. Both the plate and the stack had to be removed to redo the blackening on the brass. Even this picture taken after the re-blackening, shows some brown spots re-appearing. The process used on this second treatment was to remove the wax and first blackening, soak the parts in hot TIVO solution (a pre-plating cleaner), rinse in clean water, blacken in a new batch of dilute selenium solution (Blacken-it), rinse thoroughly in water with dish detergent, dry and buff. Next time copper with liver of sulfur! I am about to reach for the paint can.

 

Ed

[EdT]

The standards installed on the syanchions of the forecastle breast rail in the above post are not correct and were removed later to cut two sheaves into the lower part of each stanchion.

 

Ed

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 163– Sheer Strakes

Posted 6/16/13

 

 

Before moving to the outside of the hull there are two pictures relating to the work in the last post.  The first is a close-up of the belfry taken during its final polishing and before bolt head blackening.

 

 

The next is a picture of the finished forecastle.

 

 

 

In this picture the crosspieces to the bits have been installed as well as the ironwork on the side for the guns.  Also the stack and base plate have been re-blackened again for the fifth time.  I am hoping they will hold this finish.  This time I used another “blue” product – Brass Black – for gun metalwork and followed their instructions exactly.  We’ll see what happens.

 

So, on to the outside of the hull.  The first picture shows the beginning of the installation of the sheer strakes.

 

 

 

 

These are two strakes, each about 10” wide and 4” thick, about ½” thicker than the planking just below.  The top of the lower strake will be the top of the shear rail – and also the top of the channels – so the line needs to be correct.  New measurements were taken all along the hull to recheck this and some minor adjustments to the plank below were made.

 

The next picture shows the lower strake installed up to the waist.

 

 

The two strakes also need to come up flush with the tops of the frames in the waist area.  This picture also shows the hooked scarph for the next section which is resting on the side just above.  This picture also shows that as the lower strake begins to rise relative to the ports, it has been widened to fit down to the port lintels to avoid a too thin bit of lower plank on these two ports.  Aft of this it rises enough to allow the lower plank to be cut out leaving half or more of its width.  The area of the sheer strake plank on the after port has been pared back in thickness to match the planking below.  The other has yet to be cut in this way.

 

The next picture shows the work beginning in the bow.

 

 

 

This piece was boiled first then clamped around the curve to dry.  The joints were then cut and in this picture it is being glued in place.  The thickness of the plank being installed was thinned down at the front to fit the rabbet in the post – as was done for the wales planks.

 

In the next picture a closing piece of the lower strake is being fit up and its joint marked.

 

 

The next picture shows a section of the upper strake being installed.

 

 

 

The last picture shows the closing piece of the upper strake being installed.

 

 

The dark areas in all these pictures are moisture from washing off the glue.  Once these two strakes are leveled off and fine sanded, the shear rail can be installed, followed by the waist rail two feet below it.

 

The sizes and spacing of all the rails varies between the sources – Steel, contracts and the Naiad draft.  In general I followed the draft where a good measurement could be taken.  More on that in the next part.

 

Ed

Edited June 18, 2013 by EdT

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 164– Rails and Channels

Posted 11/24/12

 

With the shear strakes installed, the next step was to install the shear rail and the waist rail below it. 

 

 

 

The top of the shear rail follows the line of the top edge of the lower shear strake and the top of the waist rail is 2 feet below it.  The shape of the rails was scraped on the edge of a 6” thick plank using a scraper filed out on a piece of plate.  There are two different shapes for these.  After scraping the rails were ripped off to the 3” thickness.  All of the planking and the trim in this picture is European Boxwood.  The shear rail was cut out to seat the channels – the mizzen channel in this picture.  These are about an inch thinner than the shear rail.  The next picture shows this work progressing forward.

 

 

 

Again, the wet spots are from washing off the glue.  The next picture shows the first channel sections pinned in place.

 

 

 

I decided to make these of Castello – like the decks.  They are tapered to the outer edge.  Bolt heads are just visible.  They are held in place at this stage by short copper stub “bolts”.  I intend to install the iron T-plates and other detail before installing these permanently.  The next picture shows another view of this.

 

 

In the next picture the main channel is fit into place. 

 

 

I made all the channels 2’10” in breadth.  The contract calls for these to be broad enough to allow the shrouds to clear the roughtree rail with 10” clear.  This took a bit of layout work.  The slots for the deadeye bindings will be cut before installation of the ironwork.

 

In the next picture the rails have been extended forward into the waist area.

 

 

The waist rail in this area will have to be cut out where it crosses over the sweep ports.  The end of the shear rail at the left of this picture will butt right up against the forward fender.  The planksheer will fit directly on top of the upper shear stake in this picture.  That line also defines the tops of the frames.  The planksheer was flush with the gangway planking in this area.

 

The next picture shows the fore channel and the shear rail up to the cathead.

 

 

The fore channel has more curve than the other two – as does the rail.  The forward end of the rail will be trimmed back when the cathead knee is installed and the rail forward of that will be installed then as well.

 

In the next picture the side steps have been installed.

 

 

 

The break in the shear rail just forward of the steps is left for the fenders.  The bottom two steps are pear and will be stained to match the wale.  The molded shape of the steps was formed with a third cutter and the steps filed to that shape at the ends.

 

The next picture shows all the channels installed along the side.

 

 

The bunker has been put back over the wheel.  I had left it off after finishing the quarterdeck to prove to the Thanksgiving guests that it actually turns the rudder.  Now it is quite safe.

 

 

Ed

[druxey]

Always delightful to look in on your log, Ed!

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 165– Side Planking, Rails and Details

Posted 11/28/12

 

Work continues at a pretty good pace.  The first picture shows a blank for the two fenders being checked for shape against the side. 

 

 

The inside face was shaped on a larger block.  A parallel line to that shape was then drawn on the piece and the blank shown above was cut off on a scroll saw.  The two fenders were then ripped off from this and tapered to the bottom.  The beaded moldings on the outside edges were then formed with a scraper.  The next picture shows the fenders installed.

 

 

 

The next picture shows the chesstree – shaped by the same process.

 

 

 

The sheave opening was made by drilling a line of small holes then cutting out the rest with a very small mortise chisel.  The next picture shows the installed Chesstree.

 

 

 

The planking above the shear strakes at the side of the quarterdeck is shown in progress in the next picture.

 

 

The next picture shows the planking and “berthing up” of the quarterdeck area completed.

 

 

I used European boxwood for the area below the top drift rail.  This would have been planked even if the full berthing-up was not installed – as on earlier ships.  The area above that line was planked with pear.

 

The next picture shows the forward scroll on the lower drift rail being fitted before gluing.

 

 

 

I am using the same profile for this rail as for the shear rail below.  This piece was tricky to fit because it sits over the break in planking thickness between the 3” shear rail and the 2 ½” strake above.  That doesn’t seem like much difference but some paring was needed to get it to lie flat.  Carving the scroll took a couple of hours using small gouges, a scribing tools, a very small burr and a 10x Optivisor.  My hands are getting too shaky for this.  There will be a small simpler scroll atop this piece.  The forward part of side plank and the frames above will be cut back to match it.

 

Ed

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 166– Side Planking, Rails and Details continued

Posted 12/06/12

 

After the last post, there was some discussion of the channels and how they were fastened to the side planking.  The first picture shows the mizzen channel still only pinned in place, but the drainage openings at the side have been cut and the lines of the planks that make up the channel assembly have been scribed.  I decided to save some time and make the channels in one piece rather than faying curved planks together..

 

 

 

The next picture shows the way the ends of the drift rails were made.

 

 

The oddly shaped piece set on top of the drift is oversized relative to the srolled end of the rail that will be glued to its face.  When attached the shaped block will be pared and filed off to match the scroll.  This was also the method used on the two ends of the drifts on the forecastle.  With these pieces in place, the planksheer could be installed and this is shown in the next picture.

 

 

It is pinned for alignment then glued and clamped down using the port openings for clamping.

 

The next picture shows the upper drift rail of the quarterdeck after installation.

 

 

This was installed as one long piece to assist alignment.  The port openings were then sawed out.  The forward scroll of this rail has been installed.   The small piece of curved rail just aft of that piece has yet to be installed.  The next picture shows this being glued in place.

 

 

 

In the next picture the scrolled outer rail section is being matched up to the aft end of the upper forecastle drift.

 

 

 

This rail will be formed in pieces around the timberheads, which will be shaped into the tops of the forward frames.  The curvature of this rail, the scrolled end and the number of openings for the frames make this a difficult job to do in one piece.  The next picture shows the installation of this rail in progress.

 

 

 

The scrolled ends have been pretty well finished off along with the first piece beteen the aft timberheads.  The next piece has been glued in but not leveled yet.  The outer part of this rail with the scroll was made in one piece forward to the first port opening.  The inner part of the rail will be installed last.

 

The last picture shows the scrolled end of the drift rails to the quarterdeck.

 

 

 

The area above the upper drift rail would have been left as an open rail in earlier days.  The berthing up above this line that I have installed is planked from darker pear to highlight this.  The difference in color should be more pronounced after finish is applied.  Almost ready for the roughtree rail.

 

 

 

Ed

[EdT]

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797

Part 167– Topside Rails

Posted 12/09/12

 

The first picture shows the roughed out forward forecastle rail being fitted.

 

 

Once it was fit between the knighthead and the first timberhead, the outer curve was shaped, the width marked along the inside and the forward curved section cut parallel to final width.  Both edges were then molded with the half-round scraper.  The aft end was then boiled and curved to fit the frames.

 

In the next picture this rail is almost complete.

 

 

The center pieces and the inside rails have been fitted to the completed outside rail.  The next picture shows the final rail installation completed.

 

 

Before installing the roughtree rail on the quarterdeck, the two fixed blocks and the last parts of the drift rails needed to be installed.  The next picture shows that work completed.

 

 

Work also began on the other side.  The next picture shows the planksheer at the waist on the port side installed.

 

 

The piece of boxwood on the waist beams will be used for the port side forward forecastle rail.

 

In the next picture the first section of the starboard roughtree rail is being installed.

 

 

First it was formed with the half-rounds on each side.  The width of this rail is just under 16 inches.  The tops of the frames are just under six inches, the top planking inside and out is 2 ½ inches and the 2 ½ inches of half-round extends outside of the planking on each side.  If my math is right that is just less the 16 inches.  The forecastle rail width was set in the same way but is slightly wider because the spirketing on the forecastle is thicker.  The inside of the frames were given a light sanding to bring them to the correct thickness.  The rail was pinned to the correct curve and projection on the planked side.  In the picture it has been raised up on the pins to allow glue to be applied.

 

 I joined the fore and aft sections of this rail with a hook scarph.  In the next picture the aft section of rail is being glued down.  The two clamps are making the hook scarph joints tight.

 

 

 

The next picture shows the forward section of rail on the opposite side glued down.

 

 

 

Ed