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Posted

I’ve had my Byrnes saw a long time, it just makes stuff easier.  With that in mind I’m interested in comments regarding the new sliding table. Not being a woodworker beyond my modeling I’m not sure of its purpose.  What does it do I can’t already do with the sliding gauge and slide bar? Everything about his saw (and Sander which I also have) is great, how would the addition of the sliding table make stuff more easy?

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted

I have a sliding top table saw, not the same type but the only advantage I can see is that the wood does not slide on the table so will not get scratched when cutting it. Use my saw for fine wood work like doors, picture frame, cupboards or other fine finished work. It is heavier and not as easy to move.

Posted (edited)

The advantages of the cross-cut sled on the Byrnes saw are the same as for a sled on a full-size table saw. When making cross cuts, the sled provides greater safety and accuracy, particularly when making mitered cuts and cutting multiple pieces to exactly the same length. A cross-cut sled makes perfect, repeatable crosscuts on a table saw without tear-out, which is something the modeler needs to do on a fairly regular basis. Because both the workpiece and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there's much less chance of kickback and blowout as the blade exits the cut.  The Byrnes sled has a metal box which covers the blade as the cut is completed. This is a very good "automatic" safety feature that prevents ever getting cut by the blade as the sled is pushed forward.

 

The Byrnes saw sled is machined to the same .001" tolerances as the saw itself, so, while building your own sled is conceptually easy, incorporating the highly accurate miter gauge of the Byrnes sled in one you build yourself is going to take some doing. Building a sled for your full-size table saw doesn't require the tolerances that making one that will give you what your Byrnes saw is capable of would demand in terms of accuracy. While anything done on a sled can also be done without the sled, the sled saves set-up time, especially with repetitive cuts. It also keeps your fingers away from the blade, which is particularly important when cutting small pieces.

 

Check out this video. It's for full-size table saws, but if you turn your volume down, you can pretend he's talking about a Byrnes saw. :D

 

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
Posted

Bob said it all - safety, accuracy with repeatable cuts.  Is it necessary?  Probably not, but makes the job a lot easier and safer.  I'm very happy with mine.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

The first thing I did after buying the Byrnes saw (years ago) was to build a sled (not nearly as precise as Jim's).  I can't imagine using any table saw to cross-cut without one.  I will probably buy Jim's before my next project.

Maury

Posted

The cross cut sled is one of the best accessories for the Byrnes saw, in my opinion. I also made one when I bought the saw a few years ago but the one from Byrnes is 100 times better. I highly recommend it.

Posted (edited)
On 2/20/2020 at 5:53 PM, Bob Cleek said:

exactly the same length

Thank you for your reply.  I understand the repeatable and safety aspect, How does it make cuts the same length?  My example is cutting the very short “borders” of a square hatch, say each just 25mm in length and a 45 mitre didn’t cut, hard to do without losing a finger. Does the sliding table help with month the accurate cut and getting 4 perfect 25 mm lengths?

 

I should just buy it, but not sure I’d know how to use it. 
 

Great video, very helpful. 

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted
1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

Thank you for your reply.  I understand the repeatable and safety aspect, How does it make cuts the same length?  My example is cutting the very short “borders” of a square hatch, say each just 25mm in length and a 45 mitre didn’t cut, hard to do without losing a finger. Does the sliding table help with month the accurate cut and getting 4 perfect 25 mm lengths?

What I meant was that if you wanted to cut pieces of wood all exactly the same length, the sled does that very easily. If you want to cut perfect miter angles, the sled does that better than using the miter gauge on the table saw and poses less risk of your touching the moving blade.

Posted (edited)

Once you have the hatch coming piece positioned on the sled - against the stops - hold it down with a large piece of wood with a hollow that just fits the coming - maybe even involve double sided tape - to keep your fingers away from the blade.  You can even form the hollow from two pieces of wood  and the tape so that you can reuse the cover piece for different sized stock.  A few extra minutes spent on safety can save a lot of time spent on healing.  I think that a table saw is about as dangerous as it gets for a motorized cutting tool.

Edited by Jaager
can not spell

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted
3 hours ago, Jaager said:

I think that a table saw is about as dangerous as it gets for a motorized cutting tool.

Naw, I'd award that prize to the chainsaw. Fact is, all tools are dangerous and forgetting that is the major cause of injuries.

 

The liability insurance bean counters will tell you that the tool that sends more people to the emergency room than any other is the ladder. No kidding. That's a fact.

Posted
4 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

What I meant was that if you wanted to cut pieces of wood all exactly the same length, the sled does that very easily. If you want to cut perfect miter angles, the sled does that better than using the miter gauge on the table saw and poses less risk of your touching the moving blade.

I'd use my bench sander for that. Cut close to length using my razor saw then sand the miters. Much safer. Having said that, the Byrnes saw with sled is on my "saving up" for list. 

 

21 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

Naw, I'd award that prize to the chainsaw. Fact is, all tools are dangerous and forgetting that is the major cause of injuries.

 

The liability insurance bean counters will tell you that the tool that sends more people to the emergency room than any other is the ladder. No kidding. That's a fact.

As to general safety, I've only twice needed stitches; once from using a box cutter, the other in the kitchen cutting a water melon. I've also fallen off a ladder! 

 

My total paranoia about power saws has allowed me to keep all my fingers and my hatred of heights kept my fall to about 4 feet.

 

 

Richard

Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about)

Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini

Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ha, I recently badly cut my finger when a super sharp knife slipped cutting a watermelon.  Not sure I’ll ever buy a whole watermelon again!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted
2 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Ha, I recently badly cut my finger when a super sharp knife slipped cutting a watermelon.  Not sure I’ll ever buy a whole watermelon again!

My teenage daughter now refuses to eat watermelon after seeing all the blood from my cut 😕. For a time I was forbidden to cut a watermelon - it's my wife's favorite fruit, so the ban didn't last long.

Richard

Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about)

Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini

Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights

Posted

I don't know if anybody's done the research, but I'd bet cutting watermelons is one of the highest risk kitchen cutting jobs around. I always use the biggest knife I can find. The problem is the watermelon is so heavy it wants to take control in the middle of the cut. Somebody must have posted a how-to-do-it video on YouTube. :D

 

Posted (edited)

I think this thread has lost the plot. 
 

I now have the sliding table and was successful cutting lap joints for my hatches. I also used it it to scratch build a companion way.  Now that I’ve used it, not sure how I ever did without it. 
 

Have fun with cutting stories, I’ll try not to cut anything other than wood 🙂 

 

A4FFD19A-A395-436E-A083-05D667203BCB.jpeg

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted

The hatches and companionway look good, Glenn.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted
11 hours ago, glbarlow said:


 

I now have the sliding table and was successful cutting lap joints for my hatches. I also used it it to scratch build a companion way.  Now that I’ve used it, not sure how I ever did without it. 
 

 

 

 

Those look terrific.  Exactly the kind of thing I'm looking forward to trying out once my Byrnes saw comes in. 

Posted

You will love the saw - the sliding table is new, but I've had the Byrnes saw for a number of years. It and the Byrnes sander are great tools

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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