Battle of Waterloo Attack on La Haye Sainte Farm by Old Collingwood - 1/56 (28mm)

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

nice job on the flag bearer!   your over the top!  {it's an amazed and astounded face}   really top notch  

Thank you so much Denis.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

I might (might)  start on the farm building  tomorrow  - its flat packed  at the moment  so it will be interesting to see how it assembles.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,  so the farm building begins  -  all the buildings and base are made out of laser cut MDF  on individual sheets  (about Ten of them) including a sheet of card fittings like window frames etc.

I decided to start with the main farmhouse  building, I  placed the sheet of MDF on the table and gently cut through a few pips holding the different walls in place - very sharp accurate laser cut parts, then on the farmhouse there are some  window shutters to be cut out from the card sheet, again just pips at the edges holding them - quick cut with my blade and they were cut out.

I used some watered down PVA on the backs of the shutters then placed, when stuck I added a couple of washes over the face of the shutters to harden the cardboard slightly  - same was done with the different window and door frames.

 

So this is where I am at the moment  -

 

OC.

[king derelict]

It looks like a very nice kit. I'm sure you will build it into something great

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

12 minutes ago, king derelict said:

It looks like a very nice kit. I'm sure you will build it into something great

Alan

Thank you Alan,   I am debating painting the walls as they are as flat pieces  before gluing them together, as it will be A lot easier to paint that way, as the paintwork is a mix of brick work  and white wash.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

I'm sure it will be easier to work on the details if each wall is flat. The exposed brickwork looks very well done. Do you plan to add any texture when you paint?

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

34 minutes ago, king derelict said:

I'm sure it will be easier to work on the details if each wall is flat. The exposed brickwork looks very well done. Do you plan to add any texture when you paint?

Alan

I might see if by brushing it on it might create some texture  - built up in a few layers, also I will add some white in between the bricks for mortar.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Try an off white for the mortar lines. The mortar was usually mixed with local sand, so the mix would take that shade. Paint it on and wipe it off the brick faces quickly, so the paint settles into the mortar lines.

 

And be careful around the shutters with your stucco paint. Gonna be a beauty, OC.

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, Canute said:

Try an off white for the mortar lines. The mortar was usually mixed with local sand, so the mix would take that shade. Paint it on and wipe it off the brick faces quickly, so the paint settles into the mortar lines.

 

And be careful around the shutters with your stucco paint. Gonna be a beauty, OC.

Thanks Ken,    I have some  buff  colour I could use for the mortor  and thinking of using Red Ocre  for the Bricks.

 

OC.

[Canute]

That will look good, OC.

[Edwardkenway]

You might also try a very fine sand mixed in the paint for the whitewash, as it will add texture to the stucco parts. 

I'm sure that you'll do wonders with this farm and it will complement your skillfully painted troops perfectly 😉😀

[Old Collingwood]

50 minutes ago, Canute said:

That will look good, OC.

Thanks Ken.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

46 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

You might also try a very fine sand mixed in the paint for the whitewash, as it will add texture to the stucco parts. 

I'm sure that you'll do wonders with this farm and it will complement your skillfully painted troops perfectly 😉😀

Thanks mate, think the sand will have to take a miss  - closest thing I have is White salt.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,  a wee bit more progress  this evening  -  I started by making and attaching some window ledges, then I had at go at gouging out some of the mortar lines  as the laser cut ones are too neat and uniform, then I applied a few water washes of  a sand/buff colour brushed into the gaps, this will be left to dry then a light sand over.

I have discovered an idea  - I need to brush over the MDF wood a few watered down coats of PVA  to  prime the wood as it will help the paintwork I think.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

This is my plan  - 

 

Tomorrow I will gently sand over the brick areas  to remove any wood splinters where the sand paint had softened the wood,  then after cleaning I will either apply a watery PVA sealer all over the face of the wall -  then when fully dry I will mix up a brick colour probably a little Red Ocre with a wee bit of  Buff and a drop of Brown to get that brick colour, then I will gently dry brush it over the bricks carefully not to get it in the cracks of the mortar.

Then I will apply the coats of White over the rest of the wall.

 

OC.

[Roger Pellett]

OC,

A suggestion.  Those doors look to neat and tidy, for a farm although maybe Belgian farmers are more neat and tidy than American ones.  Some more farm like weathered doors applied over the printed ones might be more realistic.

 

Roger

[Old Collingwood]

15 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

OC,

A suggestion.  Those doors look to neat and tidy, for a farm although maybe Belgian farmers are more neat and tidy than American ones.  Some more farm like weathered doors applied over the printed ones might be more realistic.

 

Roger

I wonder  if they are like that as this is the Farmhouse I am building and I suppose they would have had neater / better doors than say on the barns - stables, its very hard to find any  pictures / drawings from Inside the farm complex from that time period,  more up to date  photo's show a more modern set up of modern doors and windows in the farmhouse.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

2 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

This is my plan  - 

 

Tomorrow I will gently sand over the brick areas  to remove any wood splinters where the sand paint had softened the wood,  then after cleaning I will either apply a watery PVA sealer all over the face of the wall -  then when fully dry I will mix up a brick colour probably a little Red Ocre with a wee bit of  Buff and a drop of Brown to get that brick colour, then I will gently dry brush it over the bricks carefully not to get it in the cracks of the mortar.

Then I will apply the coats of White over the rest of the wall.

 

OC.

The PVA sealer sounds like a good idea. MDF soaks up water and paint. The PVA should give a bit more control. Its going to look very nice.

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

Just now, king derelict said:

The PVA sealer sounds like a good idea. MDF soaks up water and paint. The PVA should give a bit more control. Its going to look very nice.

Alan

Thank you kindly Alan,    yep thats what I was thinking with the PVA.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

I have a question  -  the parts are all  laser cut  and the MDF  smells strongly from the burning process  how they cut through the parts  - is there anyway to get rid of the smell as the admiral can smell it from the other side of our room  - smells like a bonfire.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

5 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

I have a question  -  the parts are all  laser cut  and the MDF  smells strongly from the burning process  how they cut through the parts  - is there anyway to get rid of the smell as the admiral can smell it from the other side of our room  - smells like a bonfire.

 

OC.

A by product of your plan for using the PVA mix to seal the MDF might seal the smell in. I assume the laser was used to make the brick details etc. Light sanding on the ends of the boards and sealing them too might be a good thing too as long as it doesn't spoil the joints. Good Luck

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

1 minute ago, king derelict said:

A by product of your plan for using the PVA mix to seal the MDF might seal the smell in. I assume the laser was used to make the brick details etc. Light sanding on the ends of the boards and sealing them too might be a good thing too as long as it doesn't spoil the joints. Good Luck

Alan

All the parts (every one)  is laser cut  - when I took the flatpack out of the plastic shrinkwrap  - its was a case of  "boy  - whats that burning smell"  I have done a few cheeky coats of 50/50 PVA and water  then brushed it all over the one face of each of the pieces  shown above - but havn't done the backs yet, I hope  (hope)  the paint layers trap and kill off the burnt odour.

 

OC.

[CDW]

I bought some laser cut paint rack kits that had that smell. It goes away in a few days, or at least mine did. If the laser charred the edges, the smell may be more pronounced.

[Old Collingwood]

59 minutes ago, CDW said:

I bought some laser cut paint rack kits that had that smell. It goes away in a few days, or at least mine did. If the laser charred the edges, the smell may be more pronounced.

Thanks mate,    yep  the burning is more on the backs where you can see the darkening from the laser,   all the edges  have that darker wood  look like we get in wood ship kits.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Another plan for latter  - mix up some Brick colour paint,     guess that will be my Red Ocre mixed with some Yellow  to get a kind of Brick Orange shade  but enough to so some of the roofs also.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

3 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

All the parts (every one)  is laser cut  - when I took the flatpack out of the plastic shrinkwrap  - its was a case of  "boy  - whats that burning smell"  I have done a few cheeky coats of 50/50 PVA and water  then brushed it all over the one face of each of the pieces  shown above - but havn't done the backs yet, I hope  (hope)  the paint layers trap and kill off the burnt odour.

 

OC.

 

2 hours ago, CDW said:

I bought some laser cut paint rack kits that had that smell. It goes away in a few days, or at least mine did. If the laser charred the edges, the smell may be more pronounced.

 

1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thanks mate,    yep  the burning is more on the backs where you can see the darkening from the laser,   all the edges  have that darker wood  look like we get in wood ship kits.

 

OC.

Hey Brother, there is a product here in the states that is used to prime wood and other materials that has been stained or scorched... it seals in smells as well....

 

The name is Kilz From my own personal experience it works very, very well..... water based latex sealer primer.... Perfect for MDF.....

 

You can pick it up in England as well....

 

I used it on my laser cut paint racks that also had that burnt smell to them....

 

It definitely does the job as far as sealing, and is a great primer takes all paints well....

[Kevin]

are you going to cut the doors out and remake them look a bit battered, or you could weather then to get an aged look, its going to look great . because you are good at what ever you do 

[Canute]

OC, if you have a brass bristle brush, you could distress the boards with a few light passes. Protect the stucco areas with some tape.  Then, gouge the edges of the individual boards with your knife. Not too heavy though. All you are trying to show is it's wood door in a stucco wall, not something derelict.

[Roger Pellett]

It’s a good idea to seal the backsides anyway to prevent moisture absorption later on. 

[Old Collingwood]

12 hours ago, Egilman said:

 

 

Hey Brother, there is a product here in the states that is used to prime wood and other materials that has been stained or scorched... it seals in smells as well....

 

The name is Kilz From my own personal experience it works very, very well..... water based latex sealer primer.... Perfect for MDF.....

 

You can pick it up in England as well....

 

I used it on my laser cut paint racks that also had that burnt smell to them....

 

It definitely does the job as far as sealing, and is a great primer takes all paints well....

Thank yoi kindly brother.

 

OC.