Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 12/22/2024 at 1:24 AM, dvm27 said:

Fantastic video Giampiero! Silver solder will not work if gaps are present. Is this the same for resistance soldering?

For now, I am gaining experience with this type of welding, but I must say that it has undoubted advantages, if only for the convenience of use

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Buon giorno Giampiero,

 

she is a real beauty! I see, that the blackened metal parts such as chain plates etc show no scratches or uncovered spots at all.

How do you proceed with the mounting of these parts:

1. Dry fit the un-blackened on the model first?

2. Take these parts all off again and dismantle the wooden components such as the deadeyes etc.?

3. Blacken (what is the agent?) all metal (brass?) first and then reinstall the wooden components again.? (great risk of hurting the metal and the blackening)

4. Finally fastening of the completed and blackened part on the ship ?

 

Or alternatively

1. Dry fit the un-blackened on the model first and then

2. Blacken them in situ? Not staining clear wooden parts with the blackening agent (Liver of sulphur?)

 

I would be very gateful if you enlighten me in these matters.

 

best regards

 

Joachim

Ausschnitt attrezzatura50.jpg.cec40b179ed3cdddac2cf29ddc576b55.jpg

Ausschnitt attrezzatura51.jpg.177432e5572af74df02c9e55112d4555.jpg

Posted
23 hours ago, cotrecerf said:

Buon giorno Giampiero,

 

she is a real beauty! I see, that the blackened metal parts such as chain plates etc show no scratches or uncovered spots at all.

How do you proceed with the mounting of these parts:

1. Dry fit the un-blackened on the model first?

2. Take these parts all off again and dismantle the wooden components such as the deadeyes etc.?

3. Blacken (what is the agent?) all metal (brass?) first and then reinstall the wooden components again.? (great risk of hurting the metal and the blackening)

4. Finally fastening of the completed and blackened part on the ship ?

 

Or alternatively

1. Dry fit the un-blackened on the model first and then

2. Blacken them in situ? Not staining clear wooden parts with the blackening agent (Liver of sulphur?)

 

I would be very gateful if you enlighten me in these matters.

 

best regards

 

Joachim

 

 

Thank you Joachim!
For burnishing metals (I almost always use brass or, alternatively, copper) I use this product that I bought in the armoury.

brunitore.jpg.491dc5a06dc47c9bcd5a94341c0b3f24.jpg

 

For the burnishing process, I prefer to burnish the metal parts after they are permanently attached to the model. First, however, it is necessary to treat the underlying wood with a coat of shellac to seal the pores of the wood and prevent the burnishing liquid from penetrating into the fibres and ruining their appearance with stains that are difficult to remove.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Posted

I love the base you built. Looks fantastic.

 

Completed Build:   HMS Beagle - Occre

Current Builds:       Frigate Diana - Occre  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/

Santisima Trinidad - Occre - Cross Section https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37130-santisima-trinidad-by-rossr-occre-190-cross-section/

On the Shelf:           NRG Half Hull, the US Brig Syren - Model Shipways and USF Essex - Model Shipways

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...