HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Glenn-UK]

9 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

A thin line applicator like I’ve shown in my log helps manage the flow and amount of CA used and keeps it off your fingers. Plus it takes very little CA to hold the plank. I run the applicator behind the plank as I press down and wind up with very little on my fingers or on on the plank. I’d be careful with acetone on the wood, you might first try gentle scraping first (one of the many uses for my dental scrapers). The Chuck method of edge bending is a big help since the plank is already formed to fit.

 

As you said though, ultimately it comes with practice.  Congratulations on finishing the planking,

 

I hope you don’t mind a little more input but I suspect you’ll have paint runs with your taping as it is. Tamiya tape will stretch and conform to curves. I use a 6mm size to run as a single strip as much as I can, overlaying only where there is a straight line. Then a put 10mm tape above that less concerned with the line just to prevent paint going where I don’t want it, the 6mm tape curves more easily. Every overlay, especially short pieces, is an opportunity for a paint leak, paint build up, or a less than smooth line.  Just a thought having recently painted Flirt’s hull. 

The taping is only for the sanding and filling phase. I will be marking the waterline again and taping later on in the build when it is time to paint the hull. The stem and stern posts will be painted white below the waterline, the tape is only added at this stage to protect the laser etching when sanding. 

[mtaylor]

Looking good on the planking.   As for acetone and fingernail polish remover... usually, one and the same item with the "remover' being more expensive.  

[James H]

Nail varnish remover is just acetone with lanolin in to stop skin from drying out.

Sorry....the science background in me coming out again. 

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

SANDING AND FILLING 2^ND PLANKING

BUILD MANUAL STEP 186 & 230

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

120 & 400-grit sandpaper

Wood filler

White (water based) paint

Titebond original

 

Gathering the materials required

No parts required

 

Assembly Process

I started the process by brushing on a thin coat of white paint to the hull. This really shows up the areas which needs to be sanded and filled.

 

 

After the initial sanding I was reasonably happy that the hull was smooth. I then decided to continue with the sanding and filling phase (step 230 of build manual) to get the hull ready for the painting phase.

 

I made up a solution which was approximately 50% wood filler, 40% water and 10% Titebond original and coated it over the hull. Using an old paint the diluted solution was applied to the hull. The diluted solution fills any gaps between the adjacent planks very nicely. The hull was then left overnight to allow the solution to dry and harden.

 

The hull was then sanded, to remove the excess filler and paint before a new coat of white paint was applied. A few areas dips were once again highlighted so another diluted wood filler solution was used and left overnight to dry. After sanding the hull look much better, but still required another application of the diluted wood filler solution. This does take time, but hopefully I will reap the benefits when the hull is ready for painting. I plan to move on to adding the wales and starting work on the gallery assembly once the hull has been sanded, after the current wood filler solution has fully dried.

 

 

 

 

[Malcolm Greig]

Good to see your progress Glenn. I'm sure the final paint job will make all the effort worth while. 

 

I'll try your solution myself when the time comes.  I continue to very much enjoy your build log.

 

regards

 

Malcolm 

[Glenn-UK]

3 minutes ago, Malcolm Greig said:

Good to see your progress Glenn. I'm sure the final paint job will make all the effort worth while. 

 

I'll try your solution myself when the time comes.  I continue to very much enjoy your build log.

 

regards

 

Malcolm 

Thanks Malcolm.

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

ADDING THE WALES

BUILD MANUAL STEP 187 - 193

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Titebond original

Pins

 

Gathering the materials required

71, 72, 73, 74,137, 139,

 

Assembly Process

The two main wale patterns were soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and then pinned to the hull. The wales were then left overnight to dry out.

 

 

 

Once the parts had dried out it was a simple task to apply some titebond to the wales and fix to the hull

 

 

 

Major Problem Alert

The next stage is to fit the Inner upper counter (156) and the Stern facia pattern – inner (88). With reference to build step 149 the lower stern counter pattern was positioned so it’s top edge is aligned with the bottom edge of the stern timber slots. In build step 202 it notes Stern facia pattern will be approx. 2mm higher than the bulwarks.

 

With the inner upper counter positioned on of the lower stern counter pattern the stern facia pattern seems to lower than the bulwarks.

 

If I position the stern facia pattern so it fits as instructed (sitting 2mm proud of the bulwarks) there is a gap between the lower and upper counter patterns.

 

I have been checking to see where I have gone wrong. I can only conclude the lower stern pattern should have been positioned higher, maybe so it’s top edge should have been aligned with the top edge of the stern timber slots rather than the bottom edge. It looks like I will need to make a filler piece to sit between the lower and upper stern counter patterns. The other option is fit and to then trim the top of the bulwarks as necessary.

[James H]

Ok, been taking a good look through this and that problem you're encountering. 

 

When I built my prototype, I originally set the stern counter too low, meaning the stern fascia was too low to the bulwarks. You'll see my correction in plan where I said about elevating 2mm to the lower side of slot. That measurement is correct. Take a look at this picture from my own build:

 

 

Where I made my mistake was not making the top corner of the counter sit at the point on the side pattern where the angle changes....adjacent to the bottom of that slot you see nearest to us in the pic. It's literally only 2mm. Elevating to there will fix the issue......but.

 

...in your pic, the counter isn't in the correct position with its angle and doesnt sit in relation to the end of the side patterns. You had to put a filler piece in here to compensate, dropping that lower edge to create the gap you have. If everything isn't looked at stages ahead to check for any effect of impact, then you can't retroactively push yourself to the point where everything will align. 

 

 

To be honest, I'd rip that stern counter off and start that area again so the part is sitting properly into that curve. 

 

I can't see any way around the other alignment problems you'll face further down the line with rails etc. 

[Blue Ensign]

One of the consequences of being a 'pathfinder' Glenn.

At least you have alerted members to this potential issue, and James gives good advice;

 

If everything isn't looked at stages ahead to check for any effect of impact, then you can't retroactively push yourself to the point where everything will align. 

 

This is a critical area of any build, I hope you get it sorted.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

This is a critical area of any build, I hope you get it sorted.

Following some off line discussions with James who provided me with much needed very sound advice I have a plan to move forward. I have totally agreed with his assessment and suggestions however I have decided, for this build, there is too much risk involved with ripping off some parts already fitted so I will push on as is, accepting  all imperfections and not to be to be self-critical of my building skills.

 

At some stage, probably much later in  the build process I will probably buy another Sphinx kit and build it in slow time, taking greater care which I hope will be built to a higher standard.

[Jasseji]

6 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

At some stage, probably much later in  the build process I will probably buy another Sphinx kit and build it in slow time, taking greater care which I hope will be built to a higher standard.

No way, Limit is one per customer

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

QUARTER GALLERY AND PAINTING THE WALES

BUILD MANUAL STEP 194 - 210

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Titebond original

Clamps

Varnish

Black paint

 

Gathering the materials required

45 (x4), 45a (x2), 51 (x2), 75, 88, 156, 157, 196,

 

Assembly Process

Due to the problem highlighted in my last post I changed tact a little bit. I started by positioning the stern fascia – inner (part 88), ensuring the top sat proud of the transom by approx. 2mm, reference step 202. Once I worked out the correct position I applied some titebond to the stern area and added the fascia to the stern.

 

Once I was happy the glue had cured enough to hold to the pattern in place I moved on and added the upper counter pattern (75), again using titebond.

 

The gapping between the patterns was nowhere near as bad as I was expecting and I am confident the rails, when fitted will hide the gaps (as stated in step 208). The gapping is more noticeable on the left hand side, so when complete the model will be displayed from the right side.

 

I then moved on to starting work on the quarter galleries. Parts 45 and 45a were shaped as per the instructions and then glued in position, using part 51 to set the angle between the middle and upper gallery patterns. Overall everything was a good fit.

 

Tape was applied above and below the wales. I ensured the tape edges were firmly pressed in position. The pin holes on the wales were filled. The wales were then coated with a thin coat of polyurethane varnish. Once the varnish had dried I hand painted the wales, using a water based black paint. Three thin coats were applied. Once the final coat had dried the paint was sealed using another thin coat of polyurethane varnish.

 

The upper stern counter pattern and outer stern fascia patterns were glued in place, clamps were used to hold them in place while the glue cured.

 

This picture shows how I positioned the fascia pattern, sitting proud of the transom. There is a slight gap on the left had side with the upper counter pattern

 

Quarter gallery patterns fitted

 

I used a clamp to hold the upper pattern in position as the glue cured

 

The hull is taped ready for painting the wales, the varnish has been added

 

Painting of the wales in progress

 

The quarter gallery required some black paint (as this area could be seen through the windows)

 

This picture shows the gapping between the stern patterns

 

A blurry photo showing the outer fascia pattern clamped

 

The upper stern counter pattern is clamped

 

The painted wales and stern area, nowhere bad looking as I first feared but it is not great work on my part.

 

The painted wales

 

Quarter galleries

 

This shows the stern area, not very good building on my part, but the rails (when fitted) should cover up the gaps.

 

When looking forward I was confused with build step 220 with regard to the position of part 45c. Thankfully @James H was able to send me a modified picture, which I have added to this post.

[Malcolm Greig]

Tricky part of the build. Looks like you have solved the problems. I'm sure the stern will turn out great. 

 

regards

 

Malcolm 

[Glenn-UK]

52 minutes ago, Malcolm Greig said:

Tricky part of the build. Looks like you have solved the problems. I'm sure the stern will turn out great. 

 

regards

 

Malcolm 

Fingers crossed, work is progressing well on the quarter galleries at the moment.

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

QUARTER GALLERIES

BUILD MANUAL STEP 211 - 228

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Titebond original

Clamps

Black paint

 

Gathering the materials required

29 (x2) 45b (x2), 45c (x2), 46 (x4), 59 (x2), 89 (x2), 158 (x2) 481 & 482

 

Assembly Process

Continuing on with the quarter galleries the two inner window patterns were glued and clamped in place.

 

Next I looked at shaping the top patterns (29). I started with the stern patter edge before shaping the front edge. I made a bit of a boo boo when shaping the front edge as I did not account for the outer window pattern, which should have been fitted prior to the top pattern. Thankfully (once again) I have been able to fudge it so no real harm done.

 

After I had fitted the top pattern the outer window pattern was shaped, glued and clamped in place.

 

Moving forward the next gallery pattern (43c) was shaped and glued in position. I used a small packing piece to ensure it stayed in the right position as the glue cured. Once the glue had cured the berthing patterns were glued and clamped in place.

 

The final task was to make and fit the lower finishing patterns. I started the process by drying parts 29 and 45b and once I was happy with there relative positions they were glued together. I also glued the two parts 46 together. Once all the parts had been glued together the lower finishing pattern was shaped. This took some time before I was happy with the shaped assembly. It was then glued in place. I also painted this assembly black.

 

Next task will be to complete the sanding and filling of the hull and then to paint it white.

 

Photo of the inner window pattern clamped after fitting

 

Marking the top pattern before shaping

 

Stern edge after shaping

 

Top pattern fitted. I should have fitted the outer window pattern and shaped the top pattern accordingly

 

Outer window pattern clamped in place after gluing

 

Stern pattern 45c is glued in place, with space to keep in position s the glue cures

 

Berthing pattern clamped

 

Quarter gallery, just needs lower finishing pattern

 

Lower finishing pattern has now been added and painted black

 

A view from the rear

Edited October 6, 2021 by glennard2523

[James H]

Hi Glenn,

 

You needed to shape/bevel those roof sections before fitting, to allow the upper decorative trim to fit, plus you have that PE shingle to fit too. Test the fit of those parts before proceeding further. 

 

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

3 minutes ago, James H said:

Hi Glenn,

 

You needed to shape/bevel those roof sections before fitting, to allow the upper decorative trim to fit, plus you have that PE shingle to fit too. Test the fit of those parts before proceeding further. 

 

Thanks James

The top roof pattern leading edge was shaped before I glued in place. I made the mistake of shaping the leading edge before the outer window pattern which meant the window pattern was sitting proud. of the top pattern.

 

This picture shows the marking I made before I sanded the bevel.

[James H]

36 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

Thanks James

The top roof pattern leading edge was shaped before I glued in place. I made the mistake of shaping the leading edge before the outer window pattern which meant the window pattern was sitting proud. of the top pattern.

 

This picture shows the marking I made before I sanded the bevel.

 

I can see you cut it down to match the flow of the gallery, but where the gallery reaches roof height, the roof is bevelled inwards at an angle. For example, if you'd removed the excess material from the straight edge, the curved shape would have matched your gallery curve, the part would then have been bevelled so the roof leaned inwards from the gallery. Look at the shape of my roof angle at the front. It's not vertical. That shows the bevel where the roof leans inwards.

[James H]

Glenn, that roof looks like MDF. That is supposed to be pear. Have you used the right parts? The pear parts are engraved with the bevel shape for roof. If didn't need to be manually marked. 

 

If you still have the pear, remove material from the rear edge so the curve matches your gallery, then bevel to the curve to create the inward sloping roof.

 

Parts 481 and 482:

 

[chris watton]

I have a feeling the wrong part is glued to the top of the quarter galleries, they look MDF to me, and the parts that should fit are 4mm pear, 481 and 482. They have bevelling lines etched on the tops.

 

It would be much better if you dry fit parts, and check, check and then check again before fixing anything in place. Some parts do need shaping, as this is not a plastic kit. The stern and quarter galleries require much attention to attain a decent result. 

Edited October 6, 2021 by chris watton

[Jasseji]

i need to get my s**t together and move on, i am quite a few steps behind, lots of stuff to do recently 

[glbarlow]

Really nice to see the designer and prototype builder taking an active interest in addressing mistakes by builders. Thanks Chris and James. 

[Glenn-UK]

13 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Really nice to see the designer and prototype builder taking an active interest in addressing mistakes by builders. Thanks Chris and James. 

I'm glad to be the builder making all the mistakes, it is my trademark.🤣

[glbarlow]

3 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

it is my trademark.🤣

Sorry, you can't trademark that, I make so many mistakes it's hard to keep track:-)

 

[Glenn-UK]

After much debate, soul searching and reviewing the alternatives I have realised I have made really made a mess of my current Sphinx build, and have been left with no alterative but to buy another kit as I do not think I can realistically recover the situation and build this wonderful model to the standard it merits or I desire.

 

This came to light as work progressed on the quarter galleries. I have seriously considered seeing if I remove all the parts incorrectly fitted, ordering some replacement parts where necessary and then fix the problem. This, in my opinion, is a none starter as I think there is too many parts to remove to fix the problems.

 

I must stress the problems with my Sphinx are purely down to my building skills and not with the quality of design of the kit which is outstanding. I think the Vanguard Models are the best kits on the market and I have enjoyed all my previous builds.

 

My plan on moving forward is to continue with this current build (and build log) and to treat it as a prototype build and to learn from the mistakes I have made, and I will probably make many more mistakes as my prototype build progresses.

 

Once the new Sphinx kit arrives I will start the build in parallel, taking greater care and more time with the build to avoid the mistakes made with my current build. My mantra will be "check, check again and to then check again"

 

 

[myxyzptlyk2003]

I think the part you ended up using was a part #29 from the 3mm MDF sheet.    It has roughly the same shape as 481.       As I was building this I kept noticing part 29 on that sheet still there.    That sheet has parts for the hull bulkheads and I kept wondering what I missed because I thought all the parts of that sheet should have been used.      The only thing that kept me from making the same mistake you did was that I kept referring to the plan sheets for all of the parts and searched for the right number.

Step 223 finally shows the use of part 29 (although I don't remember my part 29 having the numbers 29 engraved on them like they show in the picture.   For all builders it's really important to refer to the plan sheets for part numbers and locations.   Later in the build there are numerous parts that look the same.   It would be easy to mix things up without referral to the plans.

[glbarlow]

I wouldn’t be so discouraged Glenn, it looks like all you need to do is remove and replace the roof of the quarter galleries. There’s not that many pieces to the quarter gallery eve if you had to replace them all. I’m confident you can sort it out. 

[Glenn-UK]

11 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I wouldn’t be so discouraged Glenn, it looks like all you need to do is remove and replace the roof of the quarter galleries. There’s not that many pieces to the quarter gallery eve if you had to replace them all. I’m confident you can sort it out. 

Hi Glenn (USA) I wish it was that simple, the two quarter gallery berthing patterns are misaligned with the upper counter pattern, the outer bulwarks are misaligned with the lower counter pattern. To fix the problem I would need to remove and reposition the lower and upper counter patterns and the stern fascia pattern. This then affects the planking which would need to be extended once the lower counter pattern is repositioned.

[Malcolm Greig]

Glenn

 

Wow, that is a drastic decision. I guess there's nothing to lose but time if you do try to attempt the corrections you detail. All the best.    

 

regards

 

Malcolm 

[JeffT]

I can't say that I've never started over with a new kit before.