Prinz Eugen 1942 by CDW - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:700 Scale - PLASTIC

[CDW]

Next up is the 1:700 Prinz Eugen, 1942, with Flyhawk super detail set.

 

[yvesvidal]

It is an obsession..... but a good one 😁

 

Yves

[Old Collingwood]

Another build for my  seat sitting requirement  - Im in mate.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

I'm looking forward to watching this build up. Adding the Flyhawk detail to the Trumpeter base needs extra skills; the base model wasn't designed for the PE so the integration is harder but you have the skill in abundance so this will be great. I think its still hard working out where the Flyhawk PE goes on a deluxe Flyhawk model so it will be a while before I follow you on one of these.

Alan

[Canute]

Oh, nice a Prinz Eugen. Another gem. I'm in Brother.

[CDW]

A portion of the Flyhawk update set is devoted to the ship guns. Not so desirable to me is the fact the replacement guns are 2 dimensional. Consequently I am going to explore the possibility of combining the 3 dimensional stock gun parts with the 2 dimensional photo etch enhancements. We shall soon see if this is a viable option.

 

[CDW]

Here are the 20mm kit guns compared to the 2 dimensional Flyhawk photo etch guns. While 2 dimensional parts are not optimal, they are far and away more realistically detailed than the kit blobs of plastic. I see no way to incorporate any of the kit parts with the photo etch in this case.

 

[CDW]

Because the secondary guns are so freakin' tiny, risk of damage and/or loss is exponentially higher. Will wait until the very end of the build to assemble, paint, and add these itty bitty guns to the model.

In my stash, I have some Flyhawk plastic molded quad guns that are pretty nice. I might opt to use those instead of the photo etch versions. Will just wait until the end to contrast, compare, then decide.

[king derelict]

Wow the PE 30mm guns are more complicated than the IBG ones. You did a great job of the folding but they are awfully delicate. I didn't like the flat barrels and thought of replacing them with wire but they are too small to even attempt it. The kit plastic ones are at the other end of the scale. I hang onto all the spare Flyhawk plastic guns for times like this. 

Alan

[CDW]

Just now, king derelict said:

Wow the PE 30mm guns are more complicated than the IBG ones. You did a great job of the folding but they are awfully delicate. I didn't like the flat barrels and thought of replacing them with wire but they are too small to even attempt it. The kit plastic ones are at the other end of the scale. I hang onto all the spare Flyhawk plastic guns for times like this. 

Alan

Look up above at the last photo in the three I posted of the instruction sheet. The instructions call for the builder to fashion a "glue stick" .5mm high x 1mm wide. 😄 Now that's just funny as heck. Guess I better start looking for some very small diameter plastic rod to cut those .5mm pieces from. I think I actually do have some plastic rod that small, but cutting them .5mm in length might be a bridge too far.

[Old Collingwood]

Need to call in "The Borrowers"😁

 

OC.

[CDW]

Will start this build working the hull and main deck first. Hull halves are separated by top and bottom pieces, the main deck being one large piece. The parts fit together well and only a light sanding on the hull will be needed at the join line before I start primer and paint coats. I like the deck fit.

while there’s a lot of photo etch included with the Flyhawk update set, attention to deck pieces is very light. I was hoping the photo etch would replace the plastic molded break water but **it’s not included. 

 

**Correction: The breakwater is included in the photo etch. See part G17 in the first photo. 🙂

Edited August 16, 2021 by CDW

[CDW]

This is the color call outs provided by Trumpeter. I plan to paint it as described in the call out.

 

A set of paint masks would be nice. I’ll probably copy resize and print the diagram to make my own masks.

 

Edited August 16, 2021 by CDW

[CDW]

Gave the entire hull and deck a coat of black primer to get started. After first spraying on Mig Ammo One Shot primer and getting terrible results, I soaked the whole thing in my strip tank to remove the paint. Once it was cleaned of paint and dried out, laid down my old standby primer, Mr Surfacer 1500 and got the usual, beautiful results. Not sure why the Ammo paint went awry this morning, but it did. Mr Surfacer is very reliable and predictable. Sorry to say but most of the acrylic primers out there are awful for reliable results.

 

Edited August 20, 2021 by CDW

[Old Collingwood]

That does look nice and  smooth  Craig,   I have the Vallejo  Primer  (that I have been using on my figures by brush so far)  I intend to try it on my figures but using my  new airbrush  - wonder also how it would work on my Hood  - taking into account  how good the finish you have  go off you Mr Surfacer.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

I've been using Vallejo black and grey primer in my air brush since I started ship modelling a year ago and it has been fine (to my inexperienced eyes). It goes on smoothly and stays on (plastic and brass) and the coat is thin enough to not obscure detail. I have been using it in the air brush undiluted or with a few drops of their thinner. I'm almost at the end of the bottle and will try the Mig One Shot next. 

Alan

[CDW]

I use a separate airbrush to spray acrylics and keep another for lacquers only. I think what happened was my acrylics airbrush got a buildup of paint inside and it ended up choking off the whole thing when I went to spray the primer this morning. Had to do a thorough, deep cleaning of it after all was said and done. What I've noticed is that the acrylic primer does not clean up well without a deep cleaning (complete disassembly and cleaning/reassembly). I've tried several different airbrush cleaning solutions for acrylics including the Ammo one, and none of them do a good job of cutting loose the paint after each spraying session. I have not tried Windex as a cleaner for this paint, but that would be my next trial if I continue trying to work with the Ammo primer.

The downside to the Mr Surfacer is that it's a lacquer and has a strong smell. OC, you won't be able to use Mr Surfacer satisfactorily in your apartment because of the smell. With your Vallejo primer, just make sure to thoroughly clean your airbrush after each spraying session. The lacquer based paints are much easier to clean up as well as keeping the airbrush clean. 

[Old Collingwood]

19 minutes ago, CDW said:

I use a separate airbrush to spray acrylics and keep another for lacquers only. I think what happened was my acrylics airbrush got a buildup of paint inside and it ended up choking off the whole thing when I went to spray the primer this morning. Had to do a thorough, deep cleaning of it after all was said and done. What I've noticed is that the acrylic primer does not clean up well without a deep cleaning (complete disassembly and cleaning/reassembly). I've tried several different airbrush cleaning solutions for acrylics including the Ammo one, and none of them do a good job of cutting loose the paint after each spraying session. I have not tried Windex as a cleaner for this paint, but that would be my next trial if I continue trying to work with the Ammo primer.

The downside to the Mr Surfacer is that it's a lacquer and has a strong smell. OC, you won't be able to use Mr Surfacer satisfactorily in your apartment because of the smell. With your Vallejo primer, just make sure to thoroughly clean your airbrush after each spraying session. The lacquer based paints are much easier to clean up as well as keeping the airbrush clean. 

I think I will stick with Vallejo then.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

I am not even a novice in this airbrush game, but I think I have done OK, (After the first few times) of keeping my airbrush clean when using the Citadel or Vallejo style of acrylics. I clean right at the end of spraying with hot tap water until the bowl is empty. If I am changing color then this is usually enough and I can go directly to the next color. If not then I follow up with a Bowl of Windex followed by 99% alcohol and finish up with water again just incase. I very seldom use the airbrush cleaner as so far as I have not used the Lacquer based acrylics, and everything seems to be coming clean without it. I have not had to pull my nozzle out for quite some time but I do pull my needle out as well on every cleaning and make sure it is clean. I just have a cheapie airbrush but so far it has done everything I wanted done or was able to use it for. So far I have not tried shading or weathering so who knows if it can be used for that kind of more advanced stuff.  

[CDW]

Painted the deck with Mr Color wood brown. Will lighten it up a bit with reduced light tan.

 

[CDW]

4 hours ago, lmagna said:

I am not even a novice in this airbrush game, but I think I have done OK, (After the first few times) of keeping my airbrush clean when using the Citadel or Vallejo style of acrylics. I clean right at the end of spraying with hot tap water until the bowl is empty. If I am changing color then this is usually enough and I can go directly to the next color. If not then I follow up with a Bowl of Windex followed by 99% alcohol and finish up with water again just incase. I very seldom use the airbrush cleaner as so far as I have not used the Lacquer based acrylics, and everything seems to be coming clean without it. I have not had to pull my nozzle out for quite some time but I do pull my needle out as well on every cleaning and make sure it is clean. I just have a cheapie airbrush but so far it has done everything I wanted done or was able to use it for. So far I have not tried shading or weathering so who knows if it can be used for that kind of more advanced stuff.  

Lou

 

I think the windex and hot water might be the ticket. I’ll give that a try next time I spray acrylic.

[CDW]

Trumpeter did a decent job on the level of detail included in the kit. Here, the main superstructure and deck is a multi piece affair. The fit to the main deck is very good.

 

[Old Collingwood]

Very nice so far mate.

 

OC.

[CDW]

29 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Very nice so far mate.

 

OC.

Thanks OC

 

The gray color on the hull is the main gray color for the entire ship, with camo markings in darker shades of gray. For reference, the gray color used here is Mr Hobby 308.

[mtdoramike]

Thank you CD for posting pics of the contents as well as the instructions. A lot of build logs miss that part on kits. I love to see the details, especially the contents of the detail kit.

[CDW]

1 hour ago, mtdoramike said:

Thank you CD for posting pics of the contents as well as the instructions. A lot of build logs miss that part on kits. I love to see the details, especially the contents of the detail kit.

Thanks for the comments and for looking in, Mike.

 

After getting started on this model, I decided to order a wood deck application  1/700 Wooden Deck+Chain fr Trumpeter 05766 German Heavy Cruiser Prinz Eugen 1942 | eBay and a set of Peddinghaus decals Peddinghaus 1/700 Prinz Eugen Heavy Cruiser Markings with Camouflage Norway 3470 | eBay.

 

I think these sets will enhance the model and have wanted to try out the Peddinghaus decals for a while now. They first caught my interest when I saw them for the Scharnhorst. If I like them, I have some other ship models I may order them to fit.

[CDW]

I'll be postponing further construction posts on Prinz Eugen until I receive the detail items I've ordered which should arrive in a few weeks. 

[Old Collingwood]

What you going to do in the mean time?

 

OC.

[CDW]

Peddinghaus decals arrived.

 

[Old Collingwood]

They look splendid mate.

 

OC.