HMS Hood by RogerF - Flyhawk - 1/700 - PLASTIC - deluxe kit

[RogerF]

5 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Are those  going top to bottom  or around  the funnels (I assume they are  from top to bottom)?

 

OC.

The funnel has very finely moulded vertical rivet detail which you can just make out in the second picture. The stays need to be mounted between, and in some cases, around these lines of rivets so must be attached absolutely vertically - a tiny dab of glue on the funnel top and bottom should do the trick but they will look awful if not perfectly aligned. Well I knew this kit would be a challenge. I'm in two minds about the PE funnel tops with walkways and ladders inside the funnel since logically these should be painted black like the inside walls and and grating and will be almost invisible to the naked eye. I might decide to see how I get on with just bending the grating into shape and leave out the interior detail.

The pic shows the instructions for the funnel PE, so judge for yourself.🤥

 

 

I've looked back at Craig's I Love Kit Hood build and see that that the kit has a steel PE surround for each funnel with all the rivet, stays and handrail detail etched on. This is a clever solution but of course requires the PE to be bent around the funnel plastic. Their arrangement for the PE funnel top 'spider' and walkway detail is almost identical to Flyhawk's and Craig's results look pretty damn good to me so perhaps I should at least try.

Edited September 23, 2021 by RogerF
missed text

[mikegr]

That rivet detail is definitely overscaled.  Flyhawk has gone too far. Rigging also is. But rigging for me is essential. That rivet thing...I don't know.

 

[RogerF]

I took a closer look at the funnel-top detail on Craig's ILK Hood and must say it really does add to the look of the finished model, that fine detail really pops out at you. So, I spent nearly 2 hours cutting out the necessary parts and de-burring what I could - I made no attempt to de-burr the spider, no way!!

ILK's Hood has a different system for achieving the spider to FLH's so Craig's experience won't help me here much (apart from telling me to remain calm!).

The spider will either work or it won't, I get it somewhere near or just bin it. But what about the support ring - seen here on the far left. ?

As can be seen on the above FL instructions, the short 'legs' sticking out from the ring are intended to be bent down, more than 90° going by the illustration so my question. How the Dickens do I do that?!! The 'legs' are a mere half a millimetre long so bending without distorting the ring itself will require a unique approach I think - any ideas chaps?!.

Also, nowhere do the PE instructions tell you to remove the spider from the plastic kit version and use the remaining ring as a base for the PE parts although the illustration appears to show a ring that will support the legs of the PE ring.

@CDW Craig, when you bent the walkway railings to fit the walkway, how did you go about it? I'm thinking; glue the straight railing centre part to the walkway and then bend and glue the curves once glue on the straight part has fully cured?

 

[CDW]

Just now, RogerF said:

 

@CDW Craig, when you bent the walkway railings to fit the walkway, how did you go about it? I'm thinking; glue the straight railing centre part to the walkway and then bend and glue the curves once glue on the straight part has fully cured?

 

 

 

Yes, straight center railings first then the curved railings last.

[Landlubber Mike]

At 1/700, I wouldn't bother deburring.  Any tiny bits are likely not going to be seen, and I found you run a risk of ruining the part - or worse yet, losing it if it happens to ping off somewhere.  On my current 1/350 build, I'll spend some time deburring but only for larger, more robust pieces.

 

The spiders take time but really aren't too difficult.  Pre-bend the legs down, then test fit.  Rinse and repeat.  Just make sure that if the funnel is not symmetrical, that you have the spider set up the correct way.  Once you get the legs close to final fit, you can start gluing one end, and then adjust the legs as you glue the others.  This is one area where having very thin brass is an advantage.

 

 

[RogerF]

Moving along to the artillery for a change, I first snipped the barrels of one of the ILK Hood's main guns and drilled a 1.1mm hole in the end of each blast-bag. This was tricky because I was holding the stump between finger and thumb. But it worked. I used ILK's parts as practice before daring to approach those of FL's. Flyhawk's barrels and blast bags are a good bit smaller than ILK's but the pin on the brass barrel is only 0,6mm in diameter. The plastic stumps are just too small to hold with fingers, so I glued them into the gun housing, carefully filed the ends parallel and drilled 0,5mm holes in each. I drilled smaller than was needed so I could use the drill to open up the hole and centre it. I still managed to get the starboard barrel a bit off-centre which annoyed me greatly. 😠 As can be seen in the 1st pic, I used a mini vice to hold the turret and a wooden coffee stirrer to get both barrels absolutely parallel - worked a treat. I had also clamped the gun housings in the vice while drilling, which made things much easier.

The 2nd pic shows how different in size FL's turret and barrels are compared with FL's - both are (supposedly) 1/700. 🤥

 

 

[RogerF]

In posting #14 above, I bemoan the fragility of these 1/700 PE parts using the starfish-platform base as an example. Yesterday and today I set out to tackle PE work afresh. I discovered that when separating a PE piece from the sheet that there is a 'sweet-spot' on  the bit between the part and the sheet it's attached to which can be severed with relatively little pressure giving that welcoming 'click' mentioned by others that signals breakthrough. I had assumed the knife should be as close to the part as possible but that is not the case. Secondly I devised methods of holding even miniscule parts so that the burrs can be removed with a small file. This can be advisable where small support struts are glued edgeways on to a flat piece of PE as in the example below. I took the starfish platform base from  posting #14 and added the support beams. I also tackled the rocket-launcher platform that will sit atop the rangefinder of B-turret.

Neither assembly is perfect by any means but represent a big step forward for me in working with PE. One final lesson I learned (the hard way) is simply only handle PE parts and assemblies when you absolutely have to. Unnecessary handling is just asking for trouble.

So, here are the results of my latest efforts with a match-head as size comparison. By persevering over the last two days, I now feel more up-beat about the whole project.

 

[king derelict]

29 minutes ago, RogerF said:

In posting #14 above, I bemoan the fragility of these 1/700 PE parts using the starfish-platform base as an example. Yesterday and today I set out to tackle PE work afresh. I discovered that when separating a PE piece from the sheet that there is a 'sweet-spot' on  the bit between the part and the sheet it's attached to which can be severed with relatively little pressure giving that welcoming 'click' mentioned by others that signals breakthrough. I had assumed the knife should be as close to the part as possible but that is not the case. Secondly I devised methods of holding even miniscule parts so that the burrs can be removed with a small file. This can be advisable where small support struts are glued edgeways on to a flat piece of PE as in the example below. I took the starfish platform base from  posting #14 and added the support beams. I also tackled the rocket-launcher platform that will sit atop the rangefinder of B-turret.

Neither assembly is perfect by any means but represent a big step forward for me in working with PE. One final lesson I learned (the hard way) is simply only handle PE parts and assemblies when you absolutely have to. Unnecessary handling is just asking for trouble.

So, here are the results of my latest efforts with a match-head as size comparison. By persevering over the last two days, I now feel more up-beat about the whole project.

 

Really tidy work Roger. I agree about limiting handling of the PE. I find its necessary to be careful of the long and relatively unsupported pieces like railings even while they are in the fret

Alan

[CDW]

Nice work Roger. I knew you would get the hang of it once you started working with it. Experience is almost always the best teacher.

[RogerF]

Lots of dry-fitting to establish the sequencing of build prior to first airbrushing - hull and some superstructure parts. I want to avoid endless spray jobs by grouping assemblies and groups of parts together wherever possible.

 

 

[RogerF]

WARNING FOR ALL THOSE OUT THERE WHO HAVE FLYHAWK'S HMS HOOD WITH PE UPGRADE

 

In the Flyhawk HMS Hood kit there  are a couple of mistakes in PE sheet "A".

 

I only discovered this morning that 4 of the supports for the starfish platform I worked on yesterday are wrongly dimensioned and that Flyhawk have added an update sheet for the relevant parts (which was included in the kit). It is too late for me to do anything about this now, which while meaning that the construction is inaccurate it also means that the two legs extending forward from the platform are unprotected. I wondered about this as I was building with the 'wrong' parts but just assumed it must be right. Very annoying considering there is no mention in the instructions that updated parts are included.

 

 

The second update is to two AA guns mounted on platforms. On PE sheet "A", there is only one platform (part 26) but as can be seen in the 2nd pic there are now two - 26a & 26b - as there should be and that they are handed, left and right. Included on the update sheet are the necessary platform supports for the '2nd' platform. Interestingly these handed platforms are included in the illustrated instructions - as though they were on the main sheet. The illustration for the starfish platform however, is wrong in the relevant areas.

 

 

I have no idea (yet) where Parts "76" included on this update sheet are destined but there's little doubt I'll remember where they are when the time comes after my experience with the starfish platform!

Hope this prevents others making the mistake I made.

 

Roger

 

[CDW]

What a gorgeous model. The plastic molding looks near-perfect as it can be for such a small scale. I am looking forward to the day when they can mold the plastic guns to be as crisp and accurate as photo etch. That day is coming I believe. The evolution of plastic molds and parts has grown exponentially better since I began in this hobby some 60 years ago.

[RogerF]

I have a problem with the top end of the lower half of the main mast.

As can be seen in the photo the top end is bent and I'm pretty sure it came out of the box like that - not that it matters!

Any tips/advice how I go about straightening it? The bend is at a weak point and carefully trying to bend it back straight by hand tells me it will break before it's straight again. Clearly some heat is needed here. So how would you guys go about the task?!

Drop it into hot or even boiling water to warm it then try to bend the end?

Warm the end over a candle or lighter?

Wait until we need to turn on the heating (shouldn't be that long now) and warm it on a radiator?

At what temperature does this kind of plastic - soften? Melt?!!

Am scratching my head and would appreciate any advice, especially if somebody has successfully straightened a plastic part like this.

Thanks in advance.

Roger

 

 

[ccoyle]

Based on my experience, whatever you do, DON'T use an open flame. Styrene's melting point is pretty low. I'd start with the hot water and try that.

[RogerF]

31 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

Based on my experience, whatever you do, DON'T use an open flame. Styrene's melting point is pretty low. I'd start with the hot water and try that.

Thanks for that Chris. Yep, if I remember rightly styrene has a habit of bursting into flame when it gets too close to a naked flame! I'm just afraid of breakage if the plastic is not warm enough - need to be soooo careful.

[king derelict]

1 hour ago, RogerF said:

I have a problem with the top end of the lower half of the main mast.

As can be seen in the photo the top end is bent and I'm pretty sure it came out of the box like that - not that it matters!

Any tips/advice how I go about straightening it? The bend is at a weak point and carefully trying to bend it back straight by hand tells me it will break before it's straight again. Clearly some heat is needed here. So how would you guys go about the task?!

Drop it into hot or even boiling water to warm it then try to bend the end?

Warm the end over a candle or lighter?

Wait until we need to turn on the heating (shouldn't be that long now) and warm it on a radiator?

At what temperature does this kind of plastic - soften? Melt?!!

Am scratching my head and would appreciate any advice, especially if somebody has successfully straightened a plastic part like this.

Thanks in advance.

Roger

 

 

Would it be possible to experiment on a bit of sprue or unused part to see how hot water or boiling water affects the plastic

Alan

[CDW]

You could first soften it a bit first using Tamiya thin cement (or similar), then bend it straight. Again, experiment first on scrap styrene of similar diameter.

[Landlubber Mike]

You could try using a hair dryer to soften and then reshape the part.  Or put in warm/hot water and see if that works.  I used a hair dryer to fix the cowl on a biplane a few months ago and it did soften the plastic to be able to reshape.  Only problem was that the part was round so it was too hard to get a perfect circle.  Your bend should be much easier.

 

You also might be able to find a replacement mast in brass that would likely be in better scale.  Infini makes a number of mast sets for various subjects, and then you can also get generic masts from companies like FiveStar.

 

 

[mikegr]

I bent styrene with hair dryer. But it was 0.3 mm thick and done by accident

[Old Collingwood]

I agree  about a hairdryer  using it gently  to try bending the end.

 

OC.

[RogerF]

Thanks for all the tips and advice guys, I think I'll try the hairdryer route first, it sounds the most promising. I just need to sneak it away from 'her indoors' when she's out shopping - tomorrow morning. Yes!

[RogerF]

A fair amount of work done with not a lot to show!

FH has provided brass replacement barrels for the 5,5 inch secondary armament but they are so tiny and drilling 14, 0,3mm holes in a part that is so tiny is something I decided to pass on for three good reasons.

1. FL's standard plastic parts are actually very good with no flash between barrels and are difficult enough to cement together (3 parts) as it is without worrying about breaking off glued-on brass parts.

2. If I had fitted the more intricate brass barrels (all 14 of them) they would probably have looked to be a smaller calibre than the pom-pom AA guns moulded in plastic.

3. I wanted to avoid drilling one or more 0.3 mm holes in my finger tips.

Also, in places it's getting to the point where PE is approaching the of point of diminishing returns.

The pic shows secondary armament without up-grade barrels and a piece (I know not what) which doesn't really need the PE embellishment but - what the heck.

 

[CDW]

The only thing lacking with the plastic barrels are the hollowed out bore of the metal ones. At this scale, the naked eye won't even notice it once the model is built.

Yes, some of the FH photo etch is definitely, diminishing return. Particularly when you consider how difficult it is to handle without mangling it. Some of it falls apart without so much as touching it.

[RogerF]

Full build on youtube.

 

This is the first full build of FH's deluxe Hood I've come across.

 

 

There are many interesting details to be found here. In particular there are (for me at least) interesting sequences of build where PE and plastic parts are combined, paint masking  and as for the rigging.... well, not sure I'm up to that but by the time I get that far I'll probably do the same but not use copper wire for some areas as in this build. Now I just need to find the time to get on with my own model.😬

 

[mikegr]

7 hours ago, RogerF said:

Full build on youtube.

 

This is the first full build of FH's deluxe Hood I've come across.

 

 

There are many interesting details to be found here. In particular there are (for me at least) interesting sequences of build where PE and plastic parts are combined, paint masking  and as for the rigging.... well, not sure I'm up to that but by the time I get that far I'll probably do the same but not use copper wire for some areas as in this build. Now I just need to find the time to get on with my own model.😬

 

The Asian channel owner makes elite builds. The sea bed is top world class, comparing to Flodberg and Katseas creations. However require more materials and its  more complicated to be built.

Edited October 19, 2021 by mikegr

[CDW]

Just now, RogerF said:

Full build on youtube.

 

This is the first full build of FH's deluxe Hood I've come across.

 

 

There are many interesting details to be found here. In particular there are (for me at least) interesting sequences of build where PE and plastic parts are combined, paint masking  and as for the rigging.... well, not sure I'm up to that but by the time I get that far I'll probably do the same but not use copper wire for some areas as in this build. Now I just need to find the time to get on with my own model.😬

 

Excellent video

 

[CDW]

4 hours ago, CDW said:

Excellent video

 

I just bought one of those masking tape cutting templates from an online supplier. Glad to have seen the tool on the video. I’ve been cutting tape with a straight edge and it’s almost impossible to cut consistently even widths.

[Landlubber Mike]

27 minutes ago, CDW said:

I just bought one of those masking tape cutting templates from an online supplier. Glad to have seen the tool on the video. I’ve been cutting tape with a straight edge and it’s almost impossible to cut consistently even widths.

 

Infini makes a few different types, including straight lines, curves, etc.  I was really happy with the purchase after first using mine.  On my current 1/350 build, I used one of the templates to cut masks for the stripes on my destroyer's funnels.  I think the stripes were about 0.5 or 1mm in width.  The template worked very well.  In the last couple of years, I've tried to cut perfectly straight/rectangular strips using a straight edge and never could quite get it right on the very thin masks.  The template makes that exercise easy and fool proof.

 

 

[CDW]

25 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

 The template makes that exercise easy and fool proof.

 

 

I never saw one before this video

[Landlubber Mike]

11 minutes ago, CDW said:

I never saw one before this video

 

I bought mine from a seller on another forum, but Free Time Hobbies has them:

 

https://freetimehobbies.com/search-results-page?q=infini+easycutting