HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - 1:48

[glbarlow]

Half of the quarter deck

 

There is a saying, or if there isn’t there ought to be, the small seemingly simple stuff, is neither small nor simple.

I started work on the quarterdeck with the process of measuring and fitting the beams. Lots of char to remove on each (Lots Of Char To Remove should be the name of a rock band), then finding center, which the red center ruler is great at doing, then cutting the right size and the right angle for each to fit. Not complex but obviously accuracy is a must for them to fit properly in the clamps. I spent a lot of time long ago making sure the opposing clamps were both level and square, that paid dividends now as the alignment (distance, height, and square) of the beams was not a thing I had to be concerned about now, though I constantly checked nonetheless.

Then came the laborious process of taping then painting the beams with multiple coats of red.

While I don’t need them yet I went ahead and did the forecastle beams since I was having a scrape, measure paint kind of day(s).

The final “beam” rests against, and has to conform to the curve of the transom along with a matching board that eventually will terminate the deck boards. It was back to the iron bending station for me to get a match to my particular transom. There was a lot of test, try, fit, repeat for me to get it where I wanted it. With that done the next trick is to make sure it’s level with the beams both vertically and horizontally. I probably made it harder than it needed to be as this took me some time to get the precision required - so simple in concept, not so easy for me to achieve.

The transom beam is supplied as two laser cut boards glued together, I didn’t like seeing the glued seam on front once in place so I added a piece of moulding left from chapter 3. Hilariously in the photo it looks like the seam of two boards layered together, it actually has some relief, is boxwood, and I think is a better finish than just the layered boards (for something that largely won’t be seen once the deck is in place, but there’s a lot of that in this chapter).

A nice “iron bracket” is achieved with laser cut and weathered pieces, it makes for a nice finish along with some side trim to bring it all together. This will be largely concealed by planking, but I know it’s there and it looks nice so there’s that.

I took a bit of a diversion to assemble the three mast coats. They consist of three laser cut rings (two for mizzen) so to sand and shape each layer then assemble them together I ground dowels to fit the inner diameter, put that with each ring in turn on the lathe, removed char, shaped them, then glued the layers together using the same dowel.

Reversing the coat on the dowel then made for a good way to center up and align the coat to the partners.  Like the cannon trucks I don’t seem to get as much char removed as I’d like. But as Chuck points out that’s not easy to do with the end grain of the wood so it is what it is. His suggestion, and a good one too late for me, is not to add WOP as that accents the char even more, better to leave them natural. Of course I asked the question after I’d done exactly that. I think they generally look pretty good though.

As you can see I elected to paint beam 12 red on front and natural on back to match up with the bulwark. Not sure why, seemed like a good idea at at the time.

Next up was laying in the cabins and once again what is simple isn’t. All our models are different so each piece of the two walls have to be sanded and adjusted to fit both vertically and with it’s neighbor and a tight but not to tight fit below the beam, with the two walls consisting of seven pieces this took some time, especially match up to the bulwarks. The hinges and door knobs give it a nice look. Here I needed a little creativity. The layered door knobs are very tiny - the captain’s cabin doors used those. However more than a few disappeared somewhere in my workshop and I ran well short. My wife saved the day with a bottle full of tiny black beads I used on the forward wall I needed 28 gauge wire to fill the center, but with that and black paint I can’t tell the difference between the two walls.

With the first two cannon permanently installed the cabin areas are complete (still happy with my custom cabin floor). You might notice the quarter gallery roof rail has been knocked off. I’ve done this multiple times, so many that I’ve had to ask Chuck for replacement parts as I’ve used up all the spares. I was smart enough to leave off the rudder and port lids, I wish I’d also kept those galley roofs off to the side for a while as well. 

I was stuck on the companionway railing for some time. I carved the first post on the lathe from strip wood to a shape I liked then did three more (well five more). I had the idea of using rope initially, after getting it on I didn’t like it and decided to go back to the recommended wood (fake iron) railing.

 

After painting then treating with weathering powder the posts were pinned to the combing. Neither simple or easy is squaring up four posts on a curved combing then glue in three exact, and I mean exact measured rails squared and leveled.  A couple of little jigs (not shown) helped but those feisty little posts and rails were a major pain for me. The fact they’ll be covered with decking didn’t make it easier for my mental state.

  

Days, or maybe it was weeks and months, later I did get there. They are on and they are square. Mini-me says just don’t touch anything. 

With four more cannon permanently pinned to the deck I moved forward with painted beams supported by lodging and a couple of hanging knees. These required more char removal and more painting. The lodging knees are mostly an easy fit, the hanging knees require a good deal of fitting to conform to my bulwarks and around the deck clamps. For some reason the paint seemed to bleed through the hanging knees despite careful taping. I don’t seal the wood before painting perhaps I should have. Later these will all be fully covered with planking so I’ll enjoy these photos now. It is cool knowing they are there.

With that I’ve reached installing the previously made capstan along with more beams and knees then some major fun stuff near the waist. Again the port lids are temporarily installed, but now I have a quandary. If I permanently install them am I more or less likely to knock a cannon loose (see quarter galley roof rail) that won’’t be the least bit easy to fix. The easy answer is don’t knock anything loose, too bad I seem to be good at doing so.

 

Thanks for stopping by. Your likes and comments are always much appreciated.

[scrubbyj427]

Looking very nice Glenn. Your railings look very good, tricky to install, no doubt.  Well done.
 

I didn’t even glue my QG roofs/rails on until the end of ch 11 I think! I knew they were doomed had i not.

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

I knew they were doomed had i not.

I should have done the same. 😔

[Rustyj]

Hi Glenn,

 

I just caught up with your log before heading off to work. It was a pleasant way to start the day.

As far as knocking things loose it seemed that no matter what I left off or how much care I took I

was always knocking something off.  

[jfhealey]

This is looking really nice. Of all the jobs you have covered in this post the one I found far and away the trickiest was the gun port lids. I could not get them to open in anything other than a ugly jangle of angles if you see what I mean - but yours look very neat and uniform. Very nice indeed - but dare I say I'm not sure about the floor. Still it's your ship/command and yours is the only point of view that matters!

 

All the best

Fred

[glbarlow]

On 9/1/2023 at 11:34 AM, jfhealey said:

the gun port lids.

Actually Fred they’re just propped up and temporary, I’m going to make a little wedge jig when i do install them permanently. I really like the cabin floor but understand it’s not for everyone. 

[glbarlow]

Until the past few days it had been over a month since I last worked on my Winchelsea. My wife and I took a two week trip to Kenya on safari to the Amboseli and Masa Mare Reserves. It was an amazing trip. Photography is my other hobby, while there we took over 10,000 photos. If you’re interested I’ve published a small set on my web site GlennBarlow Photography  Here’s a sample from each location (yes we got that close):

That was followed by a fabulous weekend in Colorado for my youngest son’s outdoor wedding with perfect weather. Now I’m back home sorting through photos and getting back to ship building.

So not much progress. I’ve been installing quarterdeck beams from stern forward and reached the point of installing the capstan I’d made a while before. The paws were a fun little, and I mean little, project. It doesn’t really show in the photo, they are thinned down on the back half. After painting with Ironwood Black and weathered I pinned them by drilling a hole using 25lb black monofilament as the pivot. The key with the capstan is for it to be centered front and back between beams and more importantly port to starboard. I guess it more challenging as my the dowel on the capstan bottom was smaller and shallower than the platform. I got there eventually, thankfully the PVA had enough drying time.

I’m enjoying installing the lodging and hanging knees, though I’m already a bit disappointed knowing none of it will show after the q-deck is partially planked.  ’m going to have to think about that some but will defer it until much later.

Kind of a cool view down the deck, forgive the iPhone created distortion. I’m now at at the point for the pumps, main jeer, and gallows, So something new to do besides beams. I plan to first go back now and install the port lids - I decided I’d rather knock them loose than a cannon - and repair my quarterdeck roof…again.

 

So it’s back to work on Chapter 7 while I also work on photos and a book I want to have ready before Christmas. Thanks for stopping by.

Edited September 28, 2023 by glbarlow

[Gregory]

Don't want to clutter up your log, but how did you get the elephant and lion shots?  Are they telephoto?

In any event, they are stunning!

[Chuck]

Lovely progress.

 

 

[glbarlow]

3 hours ago, Gregory said:

how did you get the elephant and lion shots?

Thank you.  The animals don’t consider safari vehicles a threat having grown up with them. I used a 100-400mm, many of the shots were closer to 100 than 400 in particular the elephants. I was sitting on the ground back to the vehicle for the elephant at about 100mm, the lion I was in the vehicle (no getting out around them) closer to 400mm. I never needed more than 400, some were with a 24-70mm. It was amazing how close we were. 

[glbarlow]

46 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Lovely progress

Thanks Chuck!  Your design makes it all fun.  

[Rustyj]

Your workmanship and photography are both a pleasure to see! Thanks for sharing.

[glbarlow]

Thanks Rusty!

[scrubbyj427]

Nice work Glenn! Boats and photos!

[glbarlow]

15 minutes ago, scrubbyj427 said:

Boats and photos!

Thank you!

[glbarlow]

Chapter 7 Complete!

 

A long post as it’s a big moment for me, completing Chapter 7. And oh what a chapter it was.  I started my Winchelsea build November 2021, two years to reach this point, three months of it on this chapter. Being retired I normally spent half a day most every day on the build in my never ending search, and failure to achieve, perfection. This summer though was a lot less build time, lots of travel including Kenya and our youngest son’s Colorado wedding plus every moment I could get spending time with my two grandchildren. Fortunately my older son and my grandkids live only 15 minutes away.

 

There is a lot going on in chapter 7. Beginning with the quarterdeck beams (I built the foredeck beams while I was at it) along with the lodging and hanging knees. I really like the look, unfortunately as I’ve noted and Winnie builders know, they’ll eventually be covered with deck planking….maybe.

 

There are also the cabin walls and doors. Each consists of three panels plus 4 doors, knobs, and hinges that are sanded to fit beneath beam and matched up to the bulwarks- fun stuff that was.

 

The four pillars are nice, matching four of them with the laser cut head start was fun. Even more was the posts and rails for the companionway, can’t wait to do that again on the quarterdeck. The capstan went in (the lower half), it was made long ago. All this I addressed on earlier posts, so pardon my trip down memory lane. That brought me to the next steps, the jeer bitts, gallows and pumps.

I am adding cannon row by row as I move forward. Before I got into the pumps I decided, at some peril, to add the port lids I’d stashed on my ‘built but waiting’ shelf a while back. My concern was well founded - it wasn’t long before I managed to knock one off reaching for a tool - I really need to stop doing that. Fortunately I got it back on ok. I’ve added “warning tape” to the sides to remind my hand not to hit anything.

 

I elected to run a single strand of 25pd black monofilament fishing line through both hinges. I made a simple little jig to keep the openings consistent. With that inserted I touched a little CA on the line just to the left of both hinges, pulled that into the hinge and once the CA set clipped the line on both sides of each hinge. It worked well with no shiny cut wire to deal with.  I’m a big fan of various sizes of black monofilament for this reason.

There are so many signature looks with Chuck’s excellent design - this one with the quarter galley, hull decoration, cannon, and now lids brings one of these nearer to completion.

After adding a single center post a few beams back the first step toward the pump configuration is two pillars set atop this coaming. Aside from being reduced in height, shaped, sanded, and painted they require the correct angles both top and bottom as well as being identical to its partner. I fitted these but didn’t glue them yet (as guided by Chuck’s instructions ) They will need to line up with the jeers, pumps and gallows and a hole drilled at the right spot through the near center.  A piece of scrap was handy in getting the right length and angles. I use a lot of purpose cut scrap MDF for various, non-scratching, jigs to check levels and pre-fit things.

The last two beams were fitted then set aside to allow working room. Next up was the gallows and jeer bitts. I love the laser cut components for Winchelsea, they are always so precise and interesting. In the case of the gallows I thought the top piece could use a little more interest. I used my mill to cut a single groove through both sides. It seemed to add a lot by adding a little in my view.

Once again my compliments to Chuck for the detail and accuracy this model provides. The pumps require around 30 separate parts each to assemble - each panel of the wheel beveled and aligned to fit among other detail. One panel, bevel, fit, check, glue, and repeat, from one side to the other…

The completed pumps (but not yet WOPed, which really defines the look) are temporarily set in place. Laser cut parts are a great starting point and assemble into nice completed components. Taken all together they make for a very realistic and fine looking model. This particular section from the forward posts through the back pillars involve a lot of those layered parts. However, though the end result is worth it - there is a lot, a lot, of char to remove. Red paint won’t cover it so it all has to come off. I use a single edge razor blade to scrape what I can and follow with very light touches using 320, 400, and 600 grit purpose made sanding sticks, I go very slowly, always in fear of removing too much, so it takes time. Wouldn’t it be nice to live in a char free world…I digress.

Though small, it was no small feat to make the four rhodings. I chose to do these from brass, bent, shaped, blacked, and weathered to attach to the gallows and jeer bitts. Not only to make them but installed in line through all of the above back to those earlier made columns. I  must have pushed in and pulled out those brass rods so many times in measuring, marking, adjusting, and confirming this very critical fit before gluing anything down. It’s a long straight, level path through five components, times two. The height is fixed by the pumps, everything else must follow.

I wasn’t done though, the rods (and eventually crank handles) extend to the forward stanchions. I made these from wood and between my Ironwood Black paint and weathering powder did my best to make them appear to be metal (doesn't show well in these photos).

Brass, blacked bent into a gentle curve and “bolted” (those ubiquitous little nails did the job) to the coaming completed the look.

I mention weathering a lot. I did this, learning from others, the first time for Cheerful.  It makes such a difference, one that probably doesn’t show in photos. I start with Admiralty Paints Ironwood Black, perhaps meant to paint metal I use it on wood all the time - it’s basically a matte black but has 'metalistic' character of its own. The Doc O’Brien weathering powder is great, for reasons beyond me Rusty Brown on the Ironwood black paint seems to make the best Iron Gray look. It’s the same combination I used on all the cannon barrels. While it may seem excessive, this brush set makes it all work for me - I use four for a single application - one for powdering, one for removing excess, one to lightly even it out, and finally the larger very soft brush to buff out and complete the look. Anyway…that’s just me.

With posts, bitts, pumps, rhodings, gallows, and stanchions all lined up and glued in - after many many repeats of measure, mark, check, confirm with long rods - it was time to make and add the cranks. I used the mill to make these “iron plugs” and purpose made smooth pliers and flush cutters to shape and bend to rods into cranks. The challenge of making one isn’t hard, making an identical partner isn’t hard either…he said being the guy who frets over ½ mm differences.

Once the rods blackened, the plugs painted and both weathered I glued them in (only at the end points) and flush cut the ends. And I’m done with another signature element - it all stands out so nicely. It takes a lot to get it this way. Every step is challenging, fun, and worth the end result. There is no reason or purpose to speed through this. It will remain one of the most visible elements of the completed model.

The final step for chapter 7 is the elm tree pumps. I cut the groove for the handle and drill out the pump itself about half through on the mill, Measured then planed/sanded the octagonal shape following the 7-10-7 ratio. With that, some painting, a small dowel drilled out in the center as the spout (I used my .7mm pencil lead the cover the inside of the spout, just enough contrast), and some black masking tape for the band the two pumps were added to the model. I drilled a hole and added a pin to the bottom of the pumps. Now that they are done and located for mounting off they go to the shelf until later so I don’t snag the handles doing something else. I’m good at that.

The final two beams and lodging knees are added and chapter 7 is complete.

 

 

Chapter 7 Photos: To make a long post longer here are some photos of the stern quarter where I’ve spent the last three months (interrupted as it were with other things).

Thanks for stopping by, your likes and especially your comments are always appreciated. Before I move to Chapter 8 I’ll take a pause and sort out my Africa photos for a book I’ll publish as Christmas gifts for the family. It gives me purpose to get through the 10,000 I and my wife took while there. It’s hard work having two hobbies, good thing I’m retired. Until next time.

 

Edited October 17, 2023 by glbarlow

[Nunnehi (Don)]

Glen,

 

Your work is just beautiful, well done!

 

Your trip to Africa also looks like a lot of fun.  Visiting Africa was never on my bucket list, but my Son and his Wife spent several years in Zambia with the Peace Corps, so naturally, we had to go. We spent almost a month in and around Livingstone and also went on a Safari- the wildlife was incredible! Highly recommended. Here’ one of my favorite pics…………

 

Don

Edited October 17, 2023 by Nunnehi (Don)

[glbarlow]

Thanks, and nice photo. 

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Glenn. Well done. You’re getting close now.

[Erik W]

Wow Glenn.  Your Winny looks superb.  It's a very clean looking build.

 

Erik

[BobG]

6 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Being retired I normally spent half a day most every day on the build in my never ending search, and failure to achieve, perfection.

Honestly, Glenn, you're the only one who isn't seeing perfection! I can't imagine how it could possibly be any better!

[James G]

Glenn, it looks so good!!! You really are your own harshest critic. However, I have a hunch it’s that perfectionism that’s helping you to create such a beautiful model. Thanks for continuing to offer such an inspirational example to all of us current Winnie builders.

[Chuck]

Wonderful progress.  I remember the same feeling at that point.  Seeing those pumps in position and the deck beams completed really make the model look different.  It energized me to move to chapter 8!!!!

[Blue Ensign]

I've run out of superlatives to describe your work Glenn, you're a very fine craftsman.

ps: as an aside is that an old  Faraday pouch your using for brush storage?

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[glbarlow]

11 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

You’re getting close now.

Thanks JJ. It does look so much more like a ship now. 

[glbarlow]

11 hours ago, Erik W said:

clean looking build.

I appreciate the comment. So much of what I do now learned building Cheerful. Yours is looking great. 

[glbarlow]

8 hours ago, BobG said:

you're the only one

Thanks Bob. There are little things but I feel like my obsession keeps the big things looking ok. I appreciate your comment. 

[glbarlow]

3 hours ago, James G said:

I have a hunch it’s that perfectionism that’s helping

It’s definitely helping, keeps me focused on doing the best I can. I’m happy with my results and I’m willing to do things over until I am. You’re off to a great start too. 

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Seeing those pumps in position

Thanks Chuck. They really do look pretty cool sitting there. It will be nice to give the bow some attention now. 

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

an old  Faraday pouch

Thank you BE, your logs have always been ones I follow, especially in my early days of modeling. You’re very good at it as well. 
No, that’s the pouch the brushes came in. I ordered them a the same time as the powder set. It’s been a bit ‘weathered’ itself as I’ve used the brushes which may give it that look.