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Posted (edited)

Stupid saw trick explained: When cutting with a hand saw, there are two directions to get 'right' which I will call 'vertical' and 'horizontal' as seen in these two images:

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-10-26 at 7.43.29 PM.png

Screen Shot 2021-10-26 at 7.39.56 PM.png

Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted (edited)

If the 'vertical' or 'horizontal' is off, you can see a misalignment in the reflection of the saw blade:  

Screen Shot 2021-10-26 at 7.08.11 PM.png

 

Screen Shot 2021-10-26 at 11.00.36 PM.png

Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted (edited)

If both are aligned (i.e. perpendicular to both surfaces), you will see a continuous line in the reflection of the saw blade. This fact allows you to track and adjust if you stray quickly. You simply correct the blade until you see a straight line connecting the wood and the reflection in the saw. This also means you don't have to move your head or shoulders, which leads to a smoother, accurate cut. Does this make sense? Any questions?

Screen Shot 2021-10-26 at 7.51.00 PM.png

Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted

Not much to report: the bottom of the hull is in ball park (85% there) so I turned my attention to the top. After a bit of cutting, I can finally test fit the deck. If I was to do this again, I would have trimmed the fop to fit the deck before working on the bottom. All work done with a small toothed saw (an Atlas Super saw used by model train folks and a 1” flat chisel).

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Posted (edited)

I have received all of the rasps: @gagliano1770's Auriou rasps as part of his downsizing and @Hubac's Historian's suggestion regarding the Nicholson #50 rasp. I have to say a) I believe these two purchases exceed my entire life-time total spend on rasps and files up to these two purchases, b) after poking about, gagliano1770’s sale of these was a gift/a give away - the list prices on these are insane!  
 

i thought I could do an apples-to-apples comparison, but the Auriou rasps are oranges in comparison to the Nicholson rasp’s apple.  The thing that struck me after playing with all of these rasps is the ease with which they move across the wood. Similar to how fine-toothed sharp saws run smoothly in comparison to a slightly dull coarse-toothed saw. They don’t bounce or wander.  If I can think of a way show a comparison I will. I’m glad I have them but it will take while to let their use seep into my thinking. Marc is correct, the #50 can remove material quickly while leaving a surface that cleans up quickly with a few swipes of a fine file. The other coarse rasps I have bounce around more and leave a hand full of scraped lines just a little too deep. While I’m impressed, I still would not suggest anyone spend $189 dollars on four Auriou needle files. (If you must, then here: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/rasps/53821-auriou-needle-rasps?item=62W3034 ) 

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Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted

@sjanicki, very kind of you to say! Thanks, There will be missteps; stay tuned!

 

@Hubac's Historian, yes! The Auriou rasps have beautiful comfortable handles with a clear and even finish. Truly a rare occurrence. 
 

Thanks everyone for your interest and encouragement!

Posted (edited)

While I couldn't think of a reasonable 'bake-off' regarding the topic of rasps, it did occur to me how I could share some information.

I photographed a selection of rasps, then of a piece of pine with 2 pulls of each rasp photographed with a raking light to show how well they cut and the marks they leave. The last photo is three pulls using the side of the rasps to cut in.

Our contestants from left to right:
1) Fine file (yes, not a rasp) - generic
2) Bastard file - Nicholson
3) a 'four of a kind' combo rasp/file - cheap from a box store
4) the aforementioned Nicholson #50
5) Auriou 175mm/7" Modeller's Rasp 
6) Auriou 150mm/6" Modeller's Rasp 
7) a carbide abrasive rasp of unknown origin

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Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted

Meanwhile back the model: 
I'm thinking about the deck's color and finish. That needs to be addressed before I permanently add the decks. The laser cut forecastle deck differs in shape to the part of the solid-wood hull I've been whittling away at. While I assume it is my silliness, I do see this in the plans:1957681791_ScreenShot2021-10-29at2_40_02PM.png.51d1725fb663b8c37972c5d11fea3b73.png 

 

I can add bit of wood to either side or cut new one from the 'waste' wood that the decks came with. I'm guessing it might be covered by the waterways (or what I presume are the waterways).

Posted (edited)

I have found a couple other plans for the hull of the Perry:
The first is from the National Archives - I found it in the book Sailing Warships of the US Navy by Donald Canney. (The image is used under Fair Use; copyright retained by Donald L. Cannery 2001).
CC853C8E-C903-4353-8DE6-0EE8468ACD24_1_102_o.thumb.jpeg.1c7c90c5ce9b7b95ea6151a3dd84557a.jpeg

 

The second is from the collection of Atlas du Genie Maritime (link to the wayback machine's copy of the image from the French government: https://web.archive.org/web/20120113075641/http://www.servicehistorique.sga.defense.gouv.fr/medias/planbato/GM05PL0275.tif)

1827822962_ScreenShot2021-10-08at1_14_26PM.thumb.png.0c4fd60c8978e9b4b5688c969023e9d4.png

 

I wonder if the later date of the French plan reflects lines lifted at a later date from the ship or merely a new drawing of an earlier set.
 

Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted (edited)

Another small variance in the plans for quarter deck and rear of the hull. The profiles for shaping the hull show straight rise up from the waterline, but the laser cut pieces and the plan of the aft bulkhead show an inner-ward taper. I followed the sections and I’m now at variance with the laser cut parts as you can see below.

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Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted

Thanks everyone for the likes! While I don’t mind talking to myself, it’s nice to assume some audience. :)

 

I think I follow the previous advice of @MrBlueJacket and assume the laser cut material is correct and trumps the variation in the plans. However that then raises the issue of curve of the deck front to back vs. side to side: both curve and wood can’t curve both ways. Perhaps a touch of thinning the deck on the side to suggest the correct curve. Not sure yet.

 

I’m looking for references regarding what the details of a 1840’s naval brig might look like and not finding much. Anyone have some ideas they would like to share?

Posted (edited)

@Hubac's Historian no rush! Honestly I wasn’t expecting an answer (though the question is real)!  The aft bulkhead will get two doors and the ships wheel as per kit. I was wondering what wood was the original made of? It was most likely paneled and there would be a molding at the top. But I couldn’t say what the details might be. 

I was gifted rotary bits and a few hand held tools by a buddy of mine, Yasmine Gur (http://www.yasmingur.com/) when she closed up her workshop to move overseas this summer. There a few rasp bits and larger stone bits which match shapes used Foredom videos I mentioned earlier. So I got my hands on a Foredom hand-piece with. A 1/4” collet. It can attach to the cheap Harbor Freight rotary tools I recently acquired. So I was off to the races. It chews through wood quickly; so much so I suggest clamping wood to avoid mishap.  Here is a picture of a bit of pine after a few seconds of contact! 

 

 

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Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted

I started work on the decks. A bit of stain and finish. I added a suggestion of horizontal decking with a sharpened pencil and ruler. I couldn’t match the color of what looks to be a black aniline dye in the wood, so a little bit of stain to dampen the contrast.

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Posted

I tried to find some more details regarding Antebellum ships of the US Navy without success. I also tried to model a bit paneling for the aft bulkhead without success. The decking is glued in place.

Posted (edited)

Good morning, Eric.  Although it seems you are past this stage, I was considering the problem of your aft templates.  Although I don’t know much about ships of this period, it does not seem insensible that the aft bulwarks would transition from almost perpendicular to the deck, to an inboard taper at the transom.  That being said, your decision to shape to the parameters set by the decking and bulwarks seems like a sound approach.  As long as your hull is fair and symmetrical, you can’t go too far wrong, here.

 

If you decide to introduce camber in both directions, you’ll want to begin with the longitudinal deck sheer first.  The shape of this arc, between stem and sternpost should be indicated on the sheer plan.  Once that’s established, you can camber down, athwart-ship, from the centerline.  I hear what you are saying about the decking material only bending in one direction, but I wonder whether the degree of camber, in both directions, might not be manageable because it isn’t extreme.  If you were to use veneer tape to join the main deck halves, it would be a pretty simple test to see whether this is possible, before you ever take a rasp to your currently flat deck space.

 

As for the clamp dents have you tried to steam them out?

Edited by Hubac's Historian

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

Posted

Just caught up on your log Eric, really nice job so far!  And thank you for sharing your adventures with woodworking tools.  Very interesting!

 

The Perry looks like a really nice subject to model, and the BJ kit looks pretty nice, especially with that helpful CD.  Personally, I don't know if I would ever do a solid hull (mostly because I would want to use power tools to speed things along but would be too nervous that I would remove too much material), but you are doing a fantastic job!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

@Hubac's Historian I wound up looking whaling ships and clippers for ballpark-ish confirmation. I also discovered at 1:96 scale I’m hard pressed to create moldings or panels or other details. So as of today, I’m leaning towards ‘just build the kit’ but come tomorrow I’ll have some other misbegotten idea I have to exhaust. As for clambering the deck, there is a bend in both X axis and the Y axis. It is almost impossible to see camber across the deck but it also doesn’t show in most of the photos I was looking at. 
 

Regarding research on the Perry, I did find another reference in Chappelle’s book on the Baltimore Clipper but he only pauses to say they are a heavy-modified off-shoot and, therefore, not worth consideration. Some one could write a book regarding the history of moldings and the like regarding ships - they exist for furniture and for architecture. But expect the audience would be quite limited.
 

@Landlubber Mike, thanks for stopping by! Power tools definitely can work here without taking off too much wood! I was just playing around with sanding drums designed for drill presses. <insert evil laughter> I also found a very fast rhythm for adjusting/ changing the hull ship with 2 gouges, a flat chisel and scraper. As you know, this seems to be the hobby of a thousand skills.  Your great work on your destroyer prompted to me to get some PE to experiment with. Well, this kit also includes some! 

Posted (edited)

Eric, I've just come across your Perry build. Please consider a 'thumbs up' for all post up till now. Nice clean work, I look forward  following to the finish. 

 

 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Eric, 

About the only way I can see doing both cambers in the deck is to use individual planks.   Wood just doesn't like bending in two directions at once.

 

There have been books for fittings, rigging, etc. I think there's one or two out there for carvings but doubt they would have much in the way of moldings.   Then again, there's a book on the color blue used nautically..   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I think there's one or two out there for carvings but doubt they would have much in the way of moldings. 

While I speak with a bit of humor, I’m sure there isn’t a document. In the land of antique furniture, where a desk can sell for the price of a house, there is detailed monographs about the history and development of the wood screw, style differences between Boston and New York in the 19th century, etc. As for pigments, there is a literature for curators, artists and those interested in fakes. https://shop.nga.gov/catalogsearch/result/?q=+Pigments 

 

Anything can be taken to far!! 

I have one book on marine carving which is mostly about 20th century decorations and one on figure heads. I haven’t see much beyond that either.

 

On 11/3/2021 at 8:10 AM, Hubac's Historian said:

As for the clamp dents have you tried to steam them out?

Not yet, it is on my list to do. I share the gory details when I come to that operation.

 

Thanks so much everyone for the kind words! From my point of view, there so many more worthy things to read here at MSW, that I’m always surprised when someone stops by! So my thanks again!

Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted (edited)

Meanwhile back at the dockyard, havoc ensues!! A number of laser cut parts don't match the plans or my work! I thought I screwed up (and I may have) but I see that @sjanicki also had some problems with the sides and added a some wood by the quarter deck and I will mostly likely follow a similar path.  The last six parts are at variance with the plans.  I'll share just one pic. The cut out for the side entrance (i'm not sure of the naval term) doesn't match the gun ports and the whole length isn't quite long enough for my ship though end to end I'm within 1/8" and the internal cut-out is spot on (well, less than  1/16"). Many thanks to @sjanicki for sharing his progress and pictures! For the last few days, I was trying to figure out where I went astray. The plans and the profiles from the kit do match for this part. USS Putty, here I come. 

Once I get to the deck fittings, it will matter less. So I'll push on. 

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Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted

In a different thread @Jaager shared a few thoughts on this period of American naval history:
"the era between 1815 and 1860 as regards USN vessels is not a popular one with modelers.  It is difficult to find resources.  I suspect that as much as possible of on board equipment was obtained from the then new on the scene private manufacturers.  The plans and pictures would likely have to be obtained from long vanished companies. 

The corvettes tended to be sleek and graceful but also cut to the essentials as far as any decoration, so they were utilitarian in appearance. ( I am a fan.) The frigates and larger were just plane ugly.   If you are a fan of Stalin Era architecture then frigates and liners of the era are just your thing."

I believe I have the just the skills and aesthetic sensibilities to honor the nuances of Stalin Era architecture. Watch me go!

Posted

While the issue of moldings is a bit of a unicorn, I thought I would share this image from a ship built near the end of the Perry's career. Stolen from the amazing build by @rwiederrich.


 

95589630_BenjF.Packardafthouse.jpg.7b53437d9370e572b1fa7a27b9fdec80.jpg

Posted (edited)

I found an older plan of the Perry (or should I say another Perry). This was from an old kit by Boucher found on ebay (all rights reserved by the original owners or whoever purchased the long-gone company).  The aft bulkhead here has one door. I'm working the deluxe version with two doors!

perry-s-l1600.jpg

Edited by EricWilliamMarshall

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