Bismarck by hof00 - FINISHED - Amati - 1/200 - Partworks

[BobG]

Looks good, Harry!

[hof00]

6 hours ago, BobG said:

Looks good, Harry!

Thanks Chap,

I/We live in the hope that it will look good at the end of proceedings!! 🙂

(I guess it is what it is and the risk of fixing imperfections outweighs perfection. The Starboard side Grab Rails are better....)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Edited February 9, 2022 by hof00

[BobG]

6 hours ago, hof00 said:

the risk of fixing imperfections outweighs perfection

 

There's wisdom in this statement for those of us who aren't professional ship modelers. Don't ask me how I know this!

[rvchima]

The hull is looking good sir! What kind of wood did you use for the base? It looks like cherry to me.

[hof00]

36 minutes ago, rvchima said:

The hull is looking good sir! What kind of wood did you use for the base? It looks like cherry to me.

Thanks Rod,

New Zealand Rimu (Pronounced "Reemoo.")

Re-cycled of course as Rimu forests are now protected.

 

Hoping to commence painting the Hull today.

 

Cheers....HOF.

[rvchima]

On 2/11/2022 at 4:10 PM, hof00 said:

New Zealand Rimu (Pronounced "Reemoo.")

Re-cycled of course as Rimu forests are now protected.

I looked up Rimu. It's quite beautiful for a softwood. When we were in New Zealand in 2019 we saw Pinus radiata timbers everywhere, probably heading to China to be made into pallets. We also saw a lot of NZ tree ferns, and when we got home I bought a cute little plant to keep as a houseplant. A year later it was taking over our dining room. I put it on the curb with a "Free" sign on it. I hope that it got a good home.

 

I finished my main mast today, and I must say that it was one of the most difficult things I've ever built. So congratulations to both of us for getting over that hurdle! 🥳

[ted99]

Harry--

Found your build log about a week ago, and now with my "downtime", I've had a chance to go thru it.  I'm looking at your PE lattice work with great interest, as I'm nowhere near to doing that, yet.  Like you, I'm learning about PE on this job.

 

Regarding attachment of the decks:  I dry laid mine to get the alignment right pretty much one piece at a time, starting from the bow, because of the fit to the plastic anchor block.  Once I was satisfied that the alignment was correct, I outlined each section by pencil to assist in final gluing.  I used Elmers non-waterproof PVA.  For each section, I put down lines of the PVA and then used a pocket comb to scrape the PVA out until it was an even coat over the surface.  At this stage, it looked like one does with tile mastic.  The tines of the comb were like a notched trowel and I was able to get complete coverage at a more or less uniform thickness.  I laid each piece of decking using the pencil lines as guide.  I did not let the glue go all the way to the edges and I didn't have any squeeze out.  I didn't need to make any adjustments after each piece was laid down and It would have been difficult to do this as the large surface area being glued made "adjustment" near to impossible because of the tenacity of the glue.  As the decks dried, bubbles formed due to the moisture from the glue percolating thru the thin deck sheets.  I left them alone and as the glue cured, they all settled down flat to the hull.  Your deck printing ink may be different from that of Amati, but I gave the wooded decks two brush coats of Minwax polyurethane satin clear with no distress.  Once I've done the swastika deck decals, I'll use a satin spray to do a final fixing, before I attach the superstructure.

 

I've had success removing excess CA glue with mechanical scraping using dental picks and a #11 knife.  This stuff is TOUGH.  I don't think this will work with the delicate brass on brass structures, though.  That's why, when I get there in my build, I'm going to try soldering.

 

The Antipodes have a lot of VERY interesting wood species.  My final five years of working were at the US Embassy in Canberra and I stayed on afterwards for five years.  I did a lot of racks/shelving/picture frames with WA Jarrah.  The DIY stores all had lots of Radiata Pine as the basic construction timber and it was superior to #2 grade Pine in the USA.  I have a number of pieces of furniture made of Jarrah (a Mahogany-like wood) and Tasmanian Oak ( light colored hardwood)  In fact, the background of one of my hull pictures shows the top of a barstool carved from Tassie oak.

 

Ted

[hof00]

14 hours ago, ted99 said:

Harry--

Found your build log about a week ago, and now with my "downtime", I've had a chance to go thru it.  I'm looking at your PE lattice work with great interest, as I'm nowhere near to doing that, yet.  Like you, I'm learning about PE on this job.

 

Regarding attachment of the decks:  I dry laid mine to get the alignment right pretty much one piece at a time, starting from the bow, because of the fit to the plastic anchor block.  Once I was satisfied that the alignment was correct, I outlined each section by pencil to assist in final gluing.  I used Elmers non-waterproof PVA.  For each section, I put down lines of the PVA and then used a pocket comb to scrape the PVA out until it was an even coat over the surface.  At this stage, it looked like one does with tile mastic.  The tines of the comb were like a notched trowel and I was able to get complete coverage at a more or less uniform thickness.  I laid each piece of decking using the pencil lines as guide.  I did not let the glue go all the way to the edges and I didn't have any squeeze out.  I didn't need to make any adjustments after each piece was laid down and It would have been difficult to do this as the large surface area being glued made "adjustment" near to impossible because of the tenacity of the glue.  As the decks dried, bubbles formed due to the moisture from the glue percolating thru the thin deck sheets.  I left them alone and as the glue cured, they all settled down flat to the hull.  Your deck printing ink may be different from that of Amati, but I gave the wooded decks two brush coats of Minwax polyurethane satin clear with no distress.  Once I've done the swastika deck decals, I'll use a satin spray to do a final fixing, before I attach the superstructure.

 

I've had success removing excess CA glue with mechanical scraping using dental picks and a #11 knife.  This stuff is TOUGH.  I don't think this will work with the delicate brass on brass structures, though.  That's why, when I get there in my build, I'm going to try soldering.

 

The Antipodes have a lot of VERY interesting wood species.  My final five years of wor🙂king were at the US Embassy in Canberra and I stayed on afterwards for five years.  I did a lot of racks/shelving/picture frames with WA Jarrah.  The DIY stores all had lots of Radiata Pine as the basic construction timber and it was superior to #2 grade Pine in the USA.  I have a number of pieces of furniture made of Jarrah (a Mahogany-like wood) and Tasmanian Oak ( light colored hardwood)  In fact, the background of one of my hull pictures shows the top of a barstool carved from Tassie oak.

 

Ted

Hi Ted,

Thank you regarding the Deck advice, yup, I'm leaning to Aliphatic, (PVA), Resin for the Deck when I get to it....🙂

Concentrating on Hull painting at the mo.

I sprayed the Deck sections some time ago with Vallejo acrylic polyurethane. 

 

The "Part-Work" thingy is the same as yours, a pre-release if you like of the full Amati kit with the exception of being in 140 separate, (Annoyingly), issues. (So, Hull, Decks and everything else, pretty much identical.

The only luxury that I do not have is to be able to fully complete many structures/components until I get through the "Parts" (Issues) and locate the parts for them.... (I cannot begin to tell you how frustrating this is!!)

 

Never mind, in some ways this forces me to stop and think about the next "Issue."

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Edited February 16, 2022 by hof00

[ted99]

I wouldn't characterize my post as "advice".  I would never deign to offer such for other experienced modelers.  I'm posting my experience, both good and bad, for others.

[hof00]

Hi All,

Still working on the "Beastie" if anyone was wondering....

Pretty involved with painting the Hull, tying to get things "Just So.... 🙂"

 

I'm not as quick at this as others seem to be, I like to give time for Paint to harden before masking up for another round. (One thing at a time....)

 

I have decided on the May 21, 1941 scheme with "Dazzle" on the Hull only.

 

Once I'm done with this, I'll get some photos up.

 

Cheers....HOF.

Edited February 22, 2022 by hof00

[Old Collingwood]

"Tapping  fingers on desk"   waiting for the pictures.......

 

OC.

[hof00]

15 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

"Tapping  fingers on desk"   waiting for the pictures.......

 

OC.

Thanks OC,

Me too!! (Watching paint dry.... 🙂)

 

Cheers....HOF.

Edited February 23, 2022 by hof00

[hof00]

Hi All,

Update of sorts....

 

Well, the Hull is painted, finally.

I'm still thinking of spraying a light coat of Write on the "Dazzle" caomo bits as they are not 100% and this being the case, it "Bugs" me.... 🙂

I found that painting a Hull of this size was expensive in terms of time, paint and masking tape, (Esp. time) I guess I'm just used to simple schemes of Waterline, below and above this.

 

Never mind, it's pretty much done now so I guess I shouldn't moan about it. 🙂

 

I found that I could touch up the darker color's  with a brush and overspray with Acrylic Semi-Gloss varnish, this ensured that the light striking these was consistent and the touch-up indistinguishable from the sprayed color.... Not the White though!! (I should have known better....)

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

So, I think that when I re-spray these White bits, I'll leave the model on its Pedestals also, this will save the Hull getting scratches on it, another problem I encountered with general handling during the painting process. 

 

I couldn't resist placing the Superstructure bits on to have a look overall....

 

Photos:

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 2, 2022 by hof00

[CDW]

Wow, she looks great in the new paint!

[hof00]

3 minutes ago, CDW said:

Wow, she looks great in the new paint!

Thanks Chap,

As stated in the post, there's a bit of re-work with the White required.

(I guess I'm a fussy person.)

 

Cheers....HOF.

[BobG]

Really looking good, Harry...wow...the paint is bringing her to life!

[hof00]

14 hours ago, BobG said:

Really looking good, Harry...wow...the paint is bringing her to life!

Thanks Chap,

I'll look at the White bits today....

I may re-spray or maybe just leave well alone.... 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

[hof00]

Very small update:

Decided to re-spray the White "Dazzle" bits, pleased that I took the time and the small effort, I just couldn't live with it the way it was....🙂

I also re-sprayed the Port Bow wave. (3.0mm Tamia tape for curves is the business!!)

 

When the paint has hardened, I'll give it a dose of Acrylic Polyurethane. (Tomorrow morning I guess.)

 

To finish the Hull, I'll ensure that there is at least 1.0 - 3.0mm of Grey around the perimeter of the Deck. and I'll affix the Props and Rudders in place.

 

(It feels like I'm getting somewhere now.... Maybe....🙂)

 

Cheers....HOF.

Edited March 4, 2022 by hof00

[macfelsing]

Really starting to come to life, HOF.  Where did you get the wooden pedestals.  Did you make them?  Looking for pedestals for my trumpeter build.  Thx

[hof00]

2 hours ago, macfelsing said:

Really starting to come to life, HOF.  Where did you get the wooden pedestals.  Did you make them?  Looking for pedestals for my trumpeter build.  Thx

Thanks Chap,

I thought I'd give wood turning a go.... 🙂 I have a fairly "Generic" wood lathe that I have only ever used in the past for tapering Masts and Spars.

 

It will be interesting to see your Trumpeter Bismarck, I have this in storage currently, whether or not I'll attempt this next, I'm unsure but the current build is teaching myself much about PE.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

 

Edited March 9, 2022 by hof00

[hof00]

Hi All,

Small update and even smaller Boats!!

 

Decided to work on the Bismarck's Boats....

After painting the Hull, I thought that I'd carry on masking and spraying all 11 of the various Motor Boats, Cutters, Gig, Longboats and Dinghy's. (It also gets rid of five, (Relatively), contiguous "Issues." 🙂)

 

I think I mentioned that the Boats reminded me of free gifts in cerial packets that my sister and I fought over many years ago....

 

Completed the Longboats/Dinghy's and completed painting the rest. With the exception of the PE stuff which I will start tomorrow.

 

Colors used: Hull Red, Light Grey, NATO Brown and Buff. (I am unsure about the "Buff" but I'll look at that again tomorrow. Don't want to use anything too dark.... Scale effect?)

 

(There may be some "Touch-ups" required, I'll look at that tomorrow also.)

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 10, 2022 by hof00

[rvchima]

Harry,

 

Your paint job on the hull is excellent! It makes a huge difference in how the model looks, and, I am sure, how you feel about it.

[GrandpaPhil]

Looking good!  Very impressive build!

[hof00]

2 hours ago, rvchima said:

Harry,

 

Your paint job on the hull is excellent! It makes a huge difference in how the model looks, and, I am sure, how you feel about it.

Thanks Rod.

It's coming along.... 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

[hof00]

Hi All,

Interesting Bismarck issues....

Must have been Pre-Release problems for Amati/"Part-works."

 

Test fitted Main Turret Barrels, they don't fit, well they do if the sloped front Turret roof is removed.

Another problem is the Barrels slope downwards by a couple of degrees when fitted, No good at all, not even parallel with the Deck!!

 

Looks like "Anton" wants to put a hole in the Bow and "Bruno" is going to destroy "Anton" if it's not careful.... 🙂

(I am assuming that "Caesar" and "Dora" are going to be the same as all Turrets are the same.)

 

I think what I'll have to do, is shim the front of the Turret floor, (Internally), by 1.0mm or so and either modify the front sloping Turret Roof or make a new one from Plastic Card. (I think Plastic would be easier to work,)

I also think that I might just have to build the remainder of the main Turrets with Barrels in place.

This just implies more masking but not a huge issue.

 

Secondary Turrets, the Barrel "Breeches" are too wide by at least 1.0mm, maybe more.... (File some width off perhaps??)

I'll look at that once I get the Mains sorted.

 

So, problems but I don't think insurmountable.

 

(Something for the weekend Sir.... ?? 🙂)

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Edited March 11, 2022 by hof00

[hof00]

Hi All,

Small update:

 

Completed Main Turrets insofar as getting the Guns to fit properly.

I used 2.0 X 2.0mm Styrene strip at the very front of the Turrets behind the PE of course.....

This elevated the Barrels just enough so that they are pretty much level with the Decks. (Better to put in the work rather than have "Drooping" Barrels.)

 

I had to modify the Sloped Turret front roof to accommodate the Blast bag structures.

I decided to keep the Brass Roofs and carefully file the semi-circular slots.

(I would have had to do this anyway as the Breeches were far too large in terms of vertical width.)

I am in the process of filling the gaps around the roof's, there are not too many gaps anyway.

I'm reasonably happy with the results, one bonus is that the Turret front PE is allot more robust.

 

 I'll look at the Secondary Guns and Turrets as well, as per my last post, the Guns do not fit.... 🙂

I do not have the luxury of being able to remove the Roof on these as the Turret PE is a two-part shell, so, maybe a file to reduce the "Breech" width??

 

Have been constructing the Searchlights while bits dry on the Turrets also.

 

I think that I'll have a go at the Cable Reels tomorrow. I was going to carry on with the Ships Boats but I am awaiting some "Gold Wood" paint for the Boats internals and Cabins, but, Taranaki Anniversary Day tomorrow, (Monday), so I don't think couriers will be working.

 

I'll get some photos up one day soonish.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

 

Edited March 13, 2022 by hof00

[hof00]

Hi All,

Main Turret Photos:

 

Just an explainer here, I really wanted to have the Barrels orientated correctly, that is parallel to the Decks.

In order to achieve, 2.0 X 2.0mm plastic strip to shim the front of the Barrels

 

The Down side to this was that I had to modify the Front Turret Roofs.

 

So, it was all a bit of what is going to look best.... A compromise since the Barrels didn't fit anyway and the Barrel "droop" was totally unacceptable

With the Barrels in thier correct orientation, the Blast Bags protrude about 1.5mm past where they should be, that is flush with the sloped Turret Roof PE.

 

I couldn't see any other solution other than the above.

 

I need to stop "Agonizing" about it and carry on.... 🙂

I guess it looks o.k. and it "Is what it is."

 

I'll let the Forum pass judgement.... Bearing in mind, I now cannot change it.... 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

.

Edited March 13, 2022 by hof00

[hof00]

Secondary Turrets: and Barrels:

 

The Secondary Barrels and Breeches, as discussed, did not fit into the Secondary Turrets.

I wrapped a bit of 6.0mm masking around the front of the Blast Bags that I wished to protect.

Out with a fine File and reduced the Breech thickness on each side by about 0.75mm

The plastic supplied is very soft and reduces rapidly.

 

Pushed the Barrel and Breech into the Turret, no worries!! 🙂

 

Now that I have the "Madness to the method," I can safely leave mounting of these until the Turrets are complete and painted.

 

I am more than a little relieved....

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

[BobG]

Looks great, Harry!

[hof00]

6 hours ago, BobG said:

Looks great, Harry!

 Thanks Chap!!

I'm still getting used to the way the "Mains" look, I just have to live with it. 🙂

 

Maybe the best solution hirer would have been to purchase "Aftermarket"
Barrels, Brass or similar.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.