HMS Agamemnon by Boris279 - Caldercraft - 1/64

[boris279]

After my Scharnhorst is finished, I decided to pick up HMS Agamemnon again, this kit was given to me by my wife and daughters about 10 years ago. 

I started it and after the first planking was done and the gun ports were cut out, the model was damaged during the rainy season because the first planking had come loose from the rafters and some of the rafters, the plywood had started to expand with all the consequences.

After I had repaired the damage somewhat, I lost the sense of purpose and put her aside. 

In the meantime, I built the 1/100 Sms Emden and the 1/100 Sms Scharnhorst. 

So I started on the Agamemnon again.

In the meantime, I made the second planking, gunwales and gun ports and added colours to the hull. 

I deviated from the colour scheme as suggested in the building description, but chose to paint her in the colours she was painted in the beginning of her career. 

 

Below some photos 
Say more than words.

(Sorry for the disorder of the pictures)

[boris279]

The canons 

 Made the canons, upgraded the carriages a bit did not like theme as the came

with the kit. so I made all the extra parts out of brass. 

 

 

 

The cooking device, did not like the pewter cooking device kit, so I made it by my self. 
 

 

The Chimney,
The supplied chimney came as a solid piece of pewter, I hollowed out the top of the chimney with a dentist's router, so it looks a bit more realistic to me.
Then I made a lid from a sheet of brass, from thin brass strip then made the rest of the fittings.
The bottom plate was made from a piece of wood, which I covered with aluminium tape and then used a skewer to poke small points into it to imitate rivets.
Then I sprayed everything in the primer, and after that I gave it the necessary colours.

I also lined the betting on the inside and top with aluminium plates which I made from aluminium adhesive tape, to simulate the copper lining.

I gave the bottom plate of the cooker and the betting a colour.
Apart from eight nails, I think it is finished, because everything will be placed under the deck and will not be visible anymore.

 

 

Edited December 28, 2021 by boris279

[boris279]

I wish everyone a happy and prosperous New Year 

 

Since the holidays are behind us, we can get on with modelling again.

 

After a lot of searching and reading, measuring and calculating. 
I started with the big copperplate puzzle. 
In this case I started at the keel, and try to work my way up to the waterline, trying to follow the courses of the planking. 
Are now 10 courses placed on both sides to create a base. 

All with about 1000 tiles placed, there are still about 1500 pieces left.

 

 

[boris279]

Thanks for the reactions and for watching.

The big copper plate puzzle is more or less done, all that remains is to make all the small fitting pieces that connect to the waterline. 
All in all, counting and calculating has worked out quite well, and so far I have minimal losses (right-hand pile) and still have a fair amount of tiles left. 

On to the last stage, the plinth that covers the top of the waterline and the keel on both sides, and as a final piece of the puzzle the rudder. 
 

[boris279]

Thank you all for your thumbs up and for watching. 
 

A bit further on, port side is finished except for the last part of the bow, this I will finish later to make it fit nicely with the starboard side. 

The strip on top will be painted later on. 
Only the starboard side to finish the waterline and the cover strip and finally the rudder. 

Below some photos

[yvesvidal]

This is superb. I wish I could get such a result on my Bellona.

I like the fact that you did not paint the channels in black (a la Victory). This makes for a less ostentatious ship.

 

Yves

[Beef Wellington]

You have a beautiful model coming together here Boris, I particular like the way you will be showing her with an earlier look rather than the ubiquitous Nelson chequer.  

[Kevin]

very nice indeed

 

[allanyed]

Your model is looking really nice!   

I know you are stuck with what they sold you and I know I am beating a dead horse here, but do you know, or, does anyone checking in here know if any kit makers make realistic copper sheathing material?  The sheathing material from Caldercraft,  OcCre and other kit makers has so many things that do not remotely look realistic that I wonder if, (barring buying alternate copper material and making your own),  it would be better leaving it off.

Allan

 

Edited January 26, 2022 by allanyed

[boris279]

6 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Your model is looking really nice!   

I know you are stuck with what they sold you and I know I am beating a dead horse here, but do you know, or, does anyone checking in here know if any kit makers make realistic copper sheathing material?  The sheathing material from Caldercraft,  OcCre and other kit makers has so many things that do not remotely looked realistic that I wonder if, (barring buying alternate copper material and making your own),  it would be better leaving it off.

Allan

 

Allen, 

 

I was already convinced myself that the tiles are indeed not quite the right scale, it is indeed that I have to do with what is supplied with the kit, I have already done some tests to get a slightly more realistic image. 
It seems if the plates are sanded a little, then the nails are less dominant, and the whole is a little calmer in my eyes. 
But I am still testing.

[allanyed]

For future, keep in mind that the sheathing was nailed on so there would be tiny dimples, not bumps sticking out.  They used 1/4 inch nails with 1/2 inch heads spaced about 2 inches apart.  Most of the plates were 48" long by 15" wide and they overlapped 1.5 inches, they did not sit side by side.  At your scale the dimples to represent nail marks would be only 0.007" (0.2mm) so barely visible, so maybe better not even shown.   The plates were only about 1/8" thick so at 1:64, this would be foil about 0.002 thick.     Hope this helps you a little.

Allan

Edited March 12, 2022 by allanyed

[boris279]

The chapter on gluing the underwater hull with copper plates is finished.

Only the rudder remains.

As I have never built a ship model of which the underwater ship had to be fitted with copper plates.
I must say that it is not as boring and difficult as I thought it would be.

I did notice that the necessary counting, calculating and measuring is important to make it a little easier for yourself.

And also noticed during the gluing, that by bending the tiles a little, they are easy to place, by sliding them over the underlying row.

All in all, I kept the cutting loss to a minimum, by using the cut off pieces as fitting pieces at the waterline if possible.
That way I have enough left over. 

Now all that's left to do is colour the white trim and we can get on with the hull.

 

 

[Barryc]

WOW! Your copper plating looks fantastic, well done sir! 👍

 

Barry

[Dave_E]

Crazy Excellent work Sir! 👍🙂

[boris279]

Thank you all for your reactions and for watching 

I have weathered the copper plates a little, as a test I kept a number of plates in a bowl of seawater for 3 weeks to see how the colour would turn out. 

 

This is my reverence  to work from. 

 

 

 

I then also applied this to the rest of the underwater ship, accelerating the process with ammonia, after cleaning, I applied a number of filters of copper paint and blue/green paint, then sealed this with a layer of varnish. 

Then I touched up the rest of the paintwork.

 

[boris279]

Today I made a start with the capstan, grids, bettings and stairs. 
 

Unfortunately, in my enthusiasm I forgot to take pictures, but luckily many people have been there before me, with pictures and explanations. 

 

So herewith only pictures of the temporary end result, still needs to be done, but it gives a bit of an idea.

 

[boris279]

Thank you all for your reactions and for watching. 

In the meantime I placed some more rings on the deck. And made some nails to
Some detail to the deck. 
 

 I also started with the bow section . And made a start with the upper knee and cornice, which I milled out slightly to give it some grace. 

I made the grids fit further and placed the front deck plus made the skirting boards for the front bulkhead. 

And I made the roofs of the roundhouses, I also wanted to add some elegance, so I made a frame of I profile, and glued it to the front.  And made the remaining mouldings. 

All this still needs to be painted, and will be placed later on. 

Below some pictures, which speak louder than words.

 

[flyer]

 

On 1/26/2022 at 4:30 PM, allanyed said:

Your model is looking really nice!   

I know you are stuck with what they sold you and I know I am beating a dead horse here, but do you know, or, does anyone checking in here know if any kit makers make realistic copper sheathing material?  The sheathing material from Caldercraft,  OcCre and other kit makers has so many things that do not remotely look realistic that I wonder if, (barring buying alternate copper material and making your own),  it would be better leaving it off.

Allan

 

 

Wonderful and clean work. I love your details. The galley stove especially is a masterpiece - if only more of it would remain visible.

Regarding allanyed's question above about copper plates: I like to work with Amati's copper plates. They come in scale 1/64 and 1/72, are flat with etched nail heads and can be placed properly overlapping.

Regards

Peter

[allanyed]

Thanks Peter.  Do you have a link for these etched plates?  I only see their part numbers 4392 and 4392-1 and on their website the fastening marks look to be punched not etched.  (Photo below)    I hope you don't mind if we can disagree if these plates are the ones you are familiar with.  These are probably the most out of scale copper plates I have seen so far.  The plates were typically 15" X48" and had upwards of 20 nails across the long axis, 6 or so on the short axis and a number of nails installed diagonally inside the periphery.   Enlarging the photos to full scale the bumps are about 4.5" in diameter, 9 times larger than what should be tiny dents, not bumps.   At 1:64, the dents should only be 0.008" ( 0.2mm) diameter while these are 0.070 (1.7mm. )  

 

Allan

[flyer]

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/amati-copper-plates.html

 

Check numbers 4392/04 and 4392/05. Below you find an impression from my Bellerophon.

 

 

(Sorry boris279 for kind of hijacking your log)

[allanyed]

Flyer,

These are perhaps the best looking plates I have seen to date.  Beautiful job on plating your hull!!!!

Allan

[boris279]

I made the necessary mouldings and supports, and adjusted the bow to make it more in line with the figurehead. 

Below some pictures, which speak louder than words. 
 

 

[allanyed]

Nicely done!   

Do the plans call for the forward part of the knee of the head to be so thick?   It would normally be tapered to about half it's thickness at the stem.  As a result the figure head is not so bow legged😀

Allan

 

[boris279]

On 3/11/2022 at 9:45 PM, allanyed said:

Nicely done!   

Do the plans call for the forward part of the knee of the head to be so thick?   It would normally be tapered to about half it's thickness at the stem.  As a result the figure head is not so bow legged😀

Allan

 

Thanks for the response, plans do not mention it, but I corrected it anyway, thanks for pointing it out. 
 

everyone for the thumbs up and looking. 
 

Thanks to everyone for the likes and watching. 

Little to report so far, recently I've been busy detailing the figurehead, thought the figurehead looked a bit rough, so after many hours of looking through a magnifying glass and sore fingers, I've used an engraving pen and some key files, adjusted the image slightly so it looks better to me. 
 

And I made a start with painting the figurehead, which took a long time to decide which colours to use, as there are many examples on the internet. With undoubtedly everyone's own motives.

 

I have chosen these colours because, in my opinion, they must have been colours based on natural raw materials which must have been used in that period. 

But it is in any case a free interpretation of what I think it must have been like. 

Below some pictures, so I would say judge for yourself,

 

the necessary finishing  and treatment must still be done to work out the colours a bit better, but it will give you an idea.

 

 

 

[boris279]

Thank you all for yourfor watching and the thumbs up.

I have adjusted the colours a bit in some places, and touched up some details.

But I think it's ok now, it's a wooden figurehead and it has to stay that way.

I will place the right hand and spear later on, because of the vulnerability of the spear.

 

 

[boris279]

Thank you all for your thumbs up  and for watching.

 

Still "quickly" made his right hand and spear.

I found the supplied spear/lance a bit on the coarse side, so I decided to make a new one.
 

First, I removed the old one, and then I pierced his right hand (sounds very dramatic, but it wasn't that bad 🙄🙄

 

Then made a new shaft from wood.
And drilled out the spear point, so that the shaft fits well.

 

And then placed the right hand.
Now I can place the shaft in the hand, or remove it to prevent damage.

Will adjust the length later if needed.

Below some pictures. 
 

[boris279]

A bit further on. 
The last 2 ornaments were finished, and then given a bit of colour. 
 

Also made the 2 (bettings ??) or whatever they are called, out of 5x5mm walnut. And then made black, they are still standing loose. 
Below some photos for the impression. 
 

[amateur]

Hi Boris,

 

Steam or sail, steel or wood, anything you build is an absolute joy to look at!

 

Jan 

[Theodosius]

very crisp and clean work, looks very good! 

[boris279]

Thank you all for your feedback and watching. 

still working on the galleon, made the toilets and placed them, also the "knight heads " a bit adjusted, that is to say made some fittings and placed them (eyes to later attach a block and 2 frogs) 

 

I also started with the "boomkins", which I turned out of a piece of 4mm round,
These will be put in the front in a 65 degrees angle, for which I made and placed a rosette. To make it look a bit neater. 

And then attached with a couple of brackets to the railing which I made of brass, 
I will later place the blocks that are attached to the end of the boomkins. 

Remains the railing and the so-called "cat heads" plus a number of decorative strips.