The Hayling Hoy 1760 by Seventynet - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - First fully framed model

[Seventynet]

Thank you so much Phil, much appreciated.

Ian

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Fantastic build Ian. beyond beautiful. 

[Seventynet]

Thank you kindly Vladimir, much appreciated. 

Ian

[Tobias]

Very impressive work, great woodwork.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Really wonderful build.

[James G]

Beautiful model, Ian! Wow. I'll be saving your build log as an example to aspire to. I received David's book this week and like you, plan to build this as my first scratch model. Thank you for sharing.

[Seventynet]

Thanks Tobias, Christian and Jim. Your good words encourage my current challenge of shaping the cheeks and fashion pieces. Compound angles, curves, tapers and bevels. My head is exploding! 
 

Ian

[druxey]

For complex parts such as the cheeks, fit the blanks to the bow and knee of the head first. Then shape the outboard profile. Finally shape the curve up on the fore and aft arm. If you try to do more than one part of the operation at the same time it will mess up!

[Seventynet]

Good morning shipmates,

 

Thanks again for the comments and the likes. I have finished fashioning the cheeks to the headworks. They are not perfect. It is remarkable how I can roll along right up to gluing the pieces in place before I realize after looking at the photos that something is not right. But this is a case where I am not going for a redo. The first problem I noticed was that the angle of the arm supporting the cathead was not vertical enough directly below it. The second probably more serious mistake is that the slot in the gammoning piece (the one with the scroll in it) was not milled low enough. I’ve decided that neither error is worth ripping the whole thing apart and starting over. I confess these problems so that anyone that might follow me can avoid the same result. 
 

The one question I have is a question that I’ve had for years. And that is with the installation of bolts, which I need to do along the cheeks. How does one install copper bolts and blacken the ends in situ. I seems beyond my skills to insert an already blackened bolt without the head (of the wire) either losing its blackened patina because of pounding it in or from the action of sanding it flush. Is there a way of doing this in situ without staining the surrounding wood? The same goes for brass or copper fittings. 

 

Anyway, thanks for looking in and for any advice.

 

Ian

 

 

[AON]

That is the problem with good photos... they seem to highlight things the eye never focuses on!

Having stated that, I think you did a wonderful job.

[Seventynet]

Thanks Alan. I should have also mentioned that my approach of doing almost all of the shaping and gluing together of the cheeks before fitting them onto the bow and knee is not the preferred way as David pointed out to me. I had almost finished the pieces when I got this sage advice. However I was able to make it work (sort of) in the end anyway.

Ian

[AON]

He does know his stuff (and then some)!  😇

Edited November 20, 2022 by AON

[mtaylor]

Blackening copper?  Liver of sulfur is what's used.  It doesn't stain the wood,  Check any of Ed Tosti's logs as he used it extensively.

[Tobias]

Hi Ian,

I've blackened all of my built-in nails so far. Black Brass is too aggressive and stains the wood. However, I have had very good results with Baristol blueing.

 

Post #21

this is what i have used so far i hope you get this in america

I did it like this:
1. Insert and file the nail.
2. Dip the tip of a toothpick into the Baristol and gently dab onto the nail.
3. Leave on for about 10-15 seconds and dab very carefully with a damp cloth, never wipe.

 

I applied the same principle to Le Coureur.

post 19

 

 

Edited November 21, 2022 by Tobias

[Seventynet]

Thanks Tobias but it doesn’t look like it is available in Canada, although I only had a quick look. I’ll try the Liver of Sulfur and see how that works.

Ian 

[druxey]

A very respectable job of the tricky headwork, particularly if you've not done this before.

[Seventynet]

Good Day, and thank you very much for the comments and likes. I am just about finished this project. I don’t plan to rig it, I just don’t have room. Let me start by giving a short review of what I did since last time. I have very little in the way of photo documenting the steps I took for each operation because for the most part they are unremarkable and probably of little interest…with one exception. 

 

That is the stern lights. I struggled mightily with those and after at least three tries using different approaches for each light I succumbed to frustration and plugged in my last pathetic version. The one positive thing I will share is discovering that old negative film (my wife’s idea) works great as windows. It readily glues to the wood with CA and the edges actually sand well. Now I will confess I actually made a single light that was close to perfect with the exception that I constructed it backwards so it wouldn’t fit. That was the last straw. The method I used for this last successful but abandoned attempt was to trace the outside of the opening insitu onto a piece of scotch tape, then trace the location of the borders and mullions. I lay the tape upside down sticky side up on the bench, fixed it in place with tape. I added the required impossibly narrow frames (0.4mm as I recall) directly onto the sticky tape marked out lines, progressively re-dimensioning the pieces until they were a perfect fit ready for glue. The sticky surface made offering up and fixing the pieces much more feasible. 

 

The stern work started with the taffrail covering board of Holly. I cut a curved single piece which sufficed.  Facing pieces of pear were placed between the lights to make the aft face of the outer counter flush. A quarter piece was made to conform to the top of the wale and the edge of the stern. While guidance suggests doing it in two pieces and I can see why that may hold some advantages I decided to start with a single piece. That worked out ok.

 

Once those were finished and the lights installed, I added small pear strips to the lights base to round out the pear framing. I then added an ornamental rail (drip rail) to run along the knuckle of the counter. I see I still need to add treenails to it. The ornamental scroll was made to fit the external curve of the stern.

 

Big head scratch for how and where the timber port stops and lid are to go…?

 

The planksheer was more challenging than I initially anticipated but it’s all about patience. The first step is to card shape the curve (I cut all pieces to curve; no edge bending) and the holes for the timberheads.  Incremental filing is the name of the game here. There just doesn’t seem to be any point in painting the timberheads beforehand as the paint will just be scraped off after the thousandth fitting. The rest of the effort is to get a flush fit to the interior plank and to the top of the frames and planking. I painted the interior edge before installing.

 

The thin finishing strip of Castello underneath the cap rail, the planksheer rail, was straight forward and glued on after I finished painting the planksheer and timberheads.

 

The channel for the chains and deadeyes was made from a quarter round cut from a lathed piece of Castello, notches milled and a very slight round up sanded in to conform to the hull line. Three bolts were installed.

 

The entry steps were milled using an end mill and a burr as shown. The bottom piece was glued on and the the length cut for the three steps and the ends filed. A tiny round up was necessary.

 

The break pumps were fashioned as described in TFFM. I still need to file home the brass ends and blacken.

 

I made the stand out of an old maple headboard and routed in the inlay which I got from Lee Valley.

 

What’s next and final? Basically a lot of cleaning up, varnishing, some trenailing, make the pedestals and mount the Hayling Hoy. Sorry, no real sequence to the pictures.

See you next time.

[AON]

I thought the model was exceptional... your base board is something to die for.

BZ

[Paul Le Wol]

Such beautiful work Ian. 

[billocrates]

I have been following your build and love your work.  Your Hoy looks beautiful, my still unfinished model looks like it has already had 30 years of hard service!

[James G]

Ian, she looks awesome! You should be very proud.

[Tobias]

Hello Jan, congratulations on the completion of your Hayling Hoy. It has turned out beautifully.

[druxey]

Well done on a challenging project! You should be very proud of the end result, Ian. Of course, I have to ask what is next?

[Seventynet]

Hi Alan, thanks a lot. That headboard has come in handy for I don’t know how many projects. It just keeps giving.

 

Paul thanks, it is but a shadow of your work. Thanks for following.

 

Hi billocrates, keep at her. It’s nice to hear that I’m not the only one building this beautiful ship and look forward to seeing yours soon.

 

Thanks Jim, good luck with your Mayflower.

 

I appreciate it Tobias and I will continue to follow your superb build.

 

Thank you of course druxey. I have a very specific idea of what’s next but will need your advice before I finalize my plans. You’ll see a pm soon.

 

Ian

[Tonphil1960]

Beautiful clean work indeed. 

[Seventynet]

Thanks Tonphil, it was my labour of love. I’m one step closer.

[jpalmer1970]

Hi Seventynet,

 

This is a fabulous build and it is really encouraging to me that you are a first time scratchbuilder. My copy of David's Hayling Hoy book is due for delivery tomorrow so this will hopefully be my first scratch build too at some point in the future. Your log will certainly serve as inspiration and guidance for me!

[giampieroricci]

very fine work!!!  I really like the base of the model!

[Seventynet]

Thank you kindly jpalmer. I truly hope to see your build log in the near future and possibly provide some tips as you go. Don’t forget to look at stuntflyer Mike’s log to get started here. 

Ian

[Seventynet]

Thanks giampieroricci. Keep up your magnificent log!

 

Ian