RMS Titanic by Tom E - Trumpeter - 1:200 - PLASTIC

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Thought I would get this build up and going. 

I rarely have two projects going, but I just couldn't keep from buying the kit and upgrade set. 

With my Niagara nearing completion, now is as good as any.

 

Initially, this build will be a little sporadic.

I need to study the instruction booklets. Figure out an approach to the build. 

Probably start by painting the hull.

 

I will be installing the LED's. That should look awesome!!!

The kit is almost as big as my couch.

I've only just started to crawl around the kit and upgrade set.

I should have some good pics as I go thru the contents.

I'm no expert on PE, but it sure does look good.

The wooden decks are pretty cool.

Some damage to the very outside edge of the sheet of wood, but no damage to the particular piece.

This should be fun!

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

[Ian_Grant]

How about a couple of hull shots, for those of us on the edge of our seats? 😄

[Prowler901]

Cool!  I'll climb aboard.

 

Todd

[Kelp]

Tom,

Looking forward to watching your build of this kit!

 

Don

[Captain Slog]

Will be following this one!

[allanyed]

I have always been about wooden ships but I am excited to see more about this kit so will be checking in on your build log.

Good luck!!

Allan

[yvesvidal]

Yes, I will be following this thread, too.

 

Yves

[French Mr Bean]

Wow, grand luxury ! Good build. 🙂

[Veszett Roka]

I'm following. Built Titanic several years ago for special purposes, the Academy 1:350 kit and had rather disappointing feelings with it.

[Tom E]

Evening, 

 

Welcome aboard everybody!!! The looks and likes are appreciated! 

 

Allan, 

I agree with you about the wooden ships. They are my first love and always will be. 

I will always have a wooden model going. Once I finish my Niagara, I plan to start the Bowdoin from Bluejacket.

Just had to try this model that I've read and seen a lot about.

Heck......why not!!! 

 

I have a small update. It's been a busy work week, should be able to spend more time with Titanic this weekend.

A model this large, I'll start by just exploring the kit, and familiarize myself with everything. There's quite a bit to go thru. 

I've already started pouring over the manuals!!

 

Everything seems to be packed very well. 

It's a single piece hull.

Wow, what a beauty.

Quite the detail in the hull itself. 

I see a lot of portholes to clean out. 

The plating and riveting is pretty cool. 

Be good!!!

Go Celtics!!!!!!

 

 

 

Tom E 

[Veszett Roka]

Hi Tom,

 

This will be a fun build, no doubt.

The hull looks good, although i found the plates a bit over-emphasized. In reality the hull was much smoother.

contra

 

 

[Joe100]

One of my favorite subjects indeed. I recently wrote a pretty widely reprinted article on the loss of Titanic, with heavy emphasis on the minutes before and after the accident occurred. So, if you need any technical questions answered, I can probably help out. Looking forward to this build!

[Roger Pellett]

A 1 in plate at this scale would be only .005 in thick.  Plating of this thickness would only be used in high stress areas like the sheer strake.  Ordinarily hull plating would be considerably thinner.

 

Roger

[Kevin]

good morning

i have this and the KA MK1 set, im not sure if i will ever build it though

there is so much after market stuff available now, to update and upgrade another of Trumpeters failings

i have a couple of links and will delete them if you wish me to do so

 

Model products | Trumpeter Titanic upgrades 1:200 - Woodys Model Works

 

RMS Titanic 1:200 - Minibrass

 

yes i know its facebook but a whole wealth of info here

Titanic model China 3D prints 1/200 - 1/350 sales and show ONLY | Facebook

Trumpeter & Academy R.M.S Titanic model builders group | Facebook

[DavidG]

there is also a porthole set at https://scalewarship.com/titanic-portholes , which is - contrary to most of aftermarket items - quite affordable and seems to be a useful addition.

 

 

[Roger Pellett]

Brass portholes??  As the photo posted above by Veszett shows, portholes in large steel hulled ships did not have the brass flanges beloved by kit marketers. The air port assembly was a bronze or steel casting affixed to the inside of the hull.  The shell plating around the porthole covers the air port casting.  The most that would be seen would be a very slight brass covered edge of the air port casting surrounding the air port glass.

 

At 1:200 scale a simple hole in the shell plating should suffice.

 

Roger

[Tom E]

Evening, 

I do believe Titanic needs an update. 

As promised on one of my original posts, this will be a bit of a sporadic build while I finish my Niagara.

But some building has been done none the less!!!

 

The instructions are extensive and should serve their purpose well. 

But the "instructions" for the upgrade set seem more like suggestions. With some study, I think I've found my path thru this build. 

I'm going to skip to section 4 of the instructions as a start and prep the hull.

I started with the propeller hubs. I'll be using the propellers from the upgrade set. 

Test fitting these on the hull and they fit quite well. 

Looking towards the rudder, I've noticed some problems with the upgrade rudder. 

It doesn't fit quite well on the ship, seems to short. The "neck" of the rudder leading into the bottom of the ship doesn't quite reach.

The kit supplied rudder fits well and will stick with that for now but that could change. 

I've also started fitting PE pieces to the hull. 

Below is kit supplied PE, there are a few other pieces from the upgrade set that I'm working on now. 

Mostly doors and hatches. 

No portholes.

Be good

 

Tom E 

 

 

[Roger Pellett]

Condenser inlets?

[Tom E]

You're a better man than me Roger.

 

My mind went right to........"the #1 and #2 have to go somewhere".

 

There located near the bottom of the hull rear of the stabilizer fins port and starboard.

I doubt there were any types of "environmental" concerns back then and into the ocean it went. 

 

Tom E 

 

[Kevin]

good morning Tom, i will tag along with your build progress, i wont be in a hurry to drill those portholes again

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Hope everyone is well. The holidays were busy, but some building was done. 

Titanic needs an update!

 

I made up the propellors. 

Below are the two side props from the MK1 upgrade.

 

Quite the detail. 

These will look nice. According to the paint guide these are all a copper color.

I will do the same. 

For the vast majority of the ship, I'll be using Tamiya rattle cans for the larger items such as the hull. 

The smaller/finer stuff will be thru the airbrush. 

I'm familiar with the Tamiya paints and feel comfortable working with them. 

I looked at other paints but went with what I know. 

I will work in some Mr. Color paints for the more unique colors. I feel equally as comfortable with their line of paints as well. 

 

From the MK1 upgrade, I've started attaching some flat PE pieces.

Look like doors and hatches and the like. 

These run along both sides of the hull. 

Pretty straight forward stuff. Some gentle flattening/scraping of the hull and they set in nicely. 

It's official. 

This project has drawn blood.

Now I have to finish it!!!!!!!   

Keep building!

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

[dvm27]

Good luck with this amazing model. I am following the Midwest Modelers You Tube build of her and am agog at the number of after market options available for her.

[Tom E]

Thanks Greg, welcome aboard. 

In regard to the aftermarket stuff. With what comes with the kit itself and what's included in the MK1 set, seems like plenty. 

I know some will say there's never enough PE, but I'm comfortable with what's here. 

Don't get me wrong, I could go crazy with aftermarket stuff. But all in moderation. 

 

Once all the flat PE pieces for the hull were installed, the stabilizer fins are next. 

I want to get as much installed on the hull itself, then paint. 

Earlier in the build I was having trouble with the MK1 rudder. I was way too small, didn't fit right in the model and looked out of sorts.

In the end I stayed with the kit supplied rudder.

The central propellor is from MK1. It won't be affixed to the hull until after its painted.

Same with the two side propellors. 

With PE pieces, fins and rudder attached. It's ready for paint. 

The hull will get a coat of Fine grey primer from Tamiya. 

With the hull under way and ready for paint. 

Time to start carving some decks to receive the wooden decks. 

Probably the main reason I bought the MK1 upgrade was for the wooden decks. 

These look awesome. Really adds an extra dimension to the model. 

Be good

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

[Kevin]

great start , i will try to finish more of my HMHS Britammic when the Lady Eleanor is completed

[Tom E]

 

Evening, 

Titanic needs an update.

I have been building, just haven't been posting. 

 

I have a probably very basic question about the wooden decks.

I have absolutely no experience with these, I mean literally none. 

I'm assuming the plastic on the bottom comes off.

But, can I also add a layer of extra adhesive on the bottom to ward off a deck that peels or curls up later as it dries?

Or is that overkill?  

There is some general PE for the deck areas. 

I put a very basic whitewash under the PE so no grey plastic color peeks thru. Eventually, these will get a flat white airbrushed on. 

I also plan on airbrushing the areas where there is overlap from other pieces like decks and cranes and the like. 

Just trying to avoid as much grey plastic color peeking thru. 

Mostly straight forward. 

The PE strips are not symmetrical to each other. 

I did have to refer to the other plastic pieces that would be around these and adjusted their final placement. 

There's some very minor overlap from the decking.

So little, one could either trim the extra wood or leave as is.

I plan on removing one "plank" of decking which should do the trick. 

The deck itself, PE, and wood decking fit the hull quite well.

Should sit nicely.

The box makes a great cradle. 

Be good, 

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

 

[Force9]

Hello Tom -

 

Just discovered your build... Nice start!

 

Regarding the decks - I've seen other modelers add Gorilla Glue even with decks that have the self-adhesive backing.  A very thin layer applied to the plastic surface seems to work wonders.  You'll also want to be sure to apply a clear coat on your wooden decking before you glue it down.  This'll help protect the surface and allow any excess glue that oozes out to be wiped clean without damage.

 

Of course it'd make sense to try both on a sample of scrap decking to make sure the glue holds firm and any clear coat doesn't fog or otherwise discolor the wooden decking.  Maybe experiment on the underside of the kit decking or a small piece of sheet styrene?

 

I'll be happily following along on your build.

 

Cheers

Evan

Edited February 10, 2023 by Force9

[Tom E]

Hi Evan, 

 

Thanks for those tips. I'll explore all of those avenues. 

Plenty of scrap decking to experiment with from the "sheets" they come in.

 

I saw your build pop up just the other day. Really fascinated with what you're doing to the kit. 

I'll be quietly watching in the background.

Thanks, 

 

Tom E 

[Tom E]

 

Morning, 

 

Chores underway, sipping on my coffee, Titanic needs an update.

 

With the PE for the hull attached, decks under general construction.

The hull needs to be painted. As mentioned before, I'm using Tamiya rattle cans for the hull.

First thing first, I started with a Tamiya fine grey surface primer. Inside and out.

Very fine multiple layers. No need to rush this.

It may look "blotchy", but it levels out nicely as it dries. 

The propellors are not fully attached. 

They just need a coat of primer. They easily come off for painting later. 

The pics won't lie. That is not the current weather in western New Hampshire in February.

I was able to get the hull done before the winter weather moved in. 

Rattle cans I try to keep outside, airbrushing I do inside. 

Just haven't been updating! 

Wash your hands!

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

[Ian_Grant]

Look at the size of the thing! Wow.

[Force9]

Tom - A quick suggestion... You might sand down the centerline seam on the stern counter (and under the stern counter).  That seam would not have been on the real ship and it would make a smoother surface for your TITANIC LIVERPOOL decals that eventually get applied there.

 

Cheers

Evan

Edited February 13, 2023 by Force9