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Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24


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A little update for this Friday, I did retouch horizontal curving alignment of the tiles for the windows, I still will have to do some realignment. Now working on port and taking pictures give no mercy. On the second picture I draw a red line to show that some realignment will be needed.  Nothing is glued yet, so that realignment can be done when necessary. It is easier to see on a picture of the model than on the model itself.

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Gaetan, I like the table. on the shelf is a red English Locomotive, that looks like a Great Western Hall class that was used in the Harry Potter Films. I recognized the type because I grew up 5 miles down the main line from Paddington Station.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Gaetan,

 

You are a master of the craft. There are so many curving, flowing lines in the stern, and all fair together beautifully, Can you imagine how the shipwrights originally conceived of those forms? There must have been some trial and error when building the ship itself.

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

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Thank you Mark, you understand exactly the idea. In a way the drawing is only a guide, the builder to succeed only needs flowing lines. I do not think that certain lines can be drawn on the first try. In this case horizontal curves are surely established before the vertical ones. Dry fit  with the brass nails is a very forgiving way, but even with this, I do not succeed all the parts in  the first try, sometimes it easily can go up to 4 or 5 try. Also in this case the thickness change, by example on the first picture, the thickness of the molding changes and in the second picture there are 4 layers to apply, you just have to guess which one you apply first. Finally to add some icing on the cake, there is  a lot of discrepancies in the drawings

Gaetan

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Gaetan, 

 

Oh my, the close-up and the drawing show that it is even more complex than I first realized! What a masterful job.

 

I am glad to hear that you sometimes make a part four or five times. My reject parts box is overflowing...

 

Mark

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lovely work Gaetan

 

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Thank you Sirs,

 

This afternnon, I did read some pages about varnish made from simples but efficient recipes, often gum (sometimes incenses) for characteristics and color + oil: varnish.

I have interest for a black varnish made with asphalt and tung oil but tung oil does not dissolve well asphalt pigments. Turpentine helps this dissolution and acts as the binder.  

Hydrocarbon increases the acidity of the asphalt. Is this acidity high enough that it must be neutralize? I do not know. Apparently bee wax acts as a neutralizer, but I did not see any references on Internet. Here is what I saw.

 Bee wax is use as a binder, it has antibacterial properties and was one as the main ingredient for the mummification. Asphalt was also a ingredient. I did not see any references as neutralizing for acid, to the contray, bee wax contains certain acids.

 In 2009, a team had a look under the microscope  to the varnish used by Antonio Stradivari. His varnish is composed of 2 fine layers. The first one, oil based and the second one, oil and pine resin (probably a form of turpentine) with pigments for the color (visual effect).

 

If anone wants to help to make the recipe he is more than welcome.

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Asphalt or bitumen in varnishes or other finishes are a problem. These never fully oxidize of polymerize and remain slightly liquid. An example is in old oil paintings and furniture where the bitumen browns form an 'alligator skin' all across the surface. Other earth brown pigments do not do this.

 

Lovely work on your quarter galleries, Gaetan!

Edited by druxey

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Druxey, as usual you are right, though asphalt aging effect is also interesting. May be some day I will find a replacement. I will have a look at this place:

 

http://www.kamapigment.com/store/index.asp?lang=0&catpage=2401

 

For now, another turn of the wheel.

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State of the Art!

Edited by Vivian Galad
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I think the reason for this is you have total control over the build and you can make sure the measuremnet oare correct and to your standards.

David B

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Gaetan, David may be right. The freedom to work the kit seems far away from building from scratch, but to get there, too, I think is good to know some things from kit building. But POF is really the work to do, the next step. Yours is beautiful and I love the small scales. 1:24 is a dream to me.

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Vivian and David,

Kit is not an oblige way to begin in this hobby.

The first important points are the plans.

Kits are not so far from scratch.

Planking a kit or planking a scratch is the samething,

the difference is just that one has more details than the other.

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Gaetan, just some thoughts: As I haven´t that experience with using much of the tools of the craft, a kit makes my path easier. If I had to begin from a plan, scratch, I would have to sort out the wood I would use, where to get them and so on. I know only one supplier for wood here in Brazil, since our common wood shops are a little sparse on catalog. Getting to the tools again, would have to learn how to design the pieces, chose the right tools to cut the wood and be able to get those tools - since the wood from the kits come sorted, the bulkheads pre-cut (on pob) and the instructions to show us what to do next, in my view the kit is easier than the scratch, and while modifying kits I´m learning steps I´ll use on scratch. Sure I could begin on scratch, but would take lots of time to learn some basics, to buy some tools and to achieve some skills. But then, I did nothing on scratch yet :P

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Vivian,

Skills only come with practice, but  I am telling you, Plans are the key to open this treasure.

If you want the most detailed plans available, Jean Boudriot is the man. Not only he will provide the good information, but he will do ALL the research for you.

If you want plans with methods on how to do it David Antscherl is the man.

With the coming of Internet, you have now Forums where many peoples to help you.

With organism as Nautical Research Guild you can now have your own private mentor.

For wood planking, Hobby millusa.com can provide all the precut wood you need, this means no big power tools to buy.

For the tools, the main reason I use a lot of tools is just to go faster. Many tools make the work easier to do, but they are not absolutely essentials. You cannot buy all the tools you could dream the first year you begin to make model ship. To get tools is a long process, before to buy a tool you have to need it and you have to know that it exists then you need the money to buy it.  

At the end, you chose the way you prefer kit or scratch, but kit or scratch need time to learn the way, the first scratch will always be difficult, but the learning curve will be much faster.

When you like to build with your hands, you find the time to do it and for a young person like you, there is still plenty of time in front of you.  

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Gaetan I agree with you one hundred percent.  To me a good set of detailed plans is crucial to everything I do.  I would estimate that at least 80% to 90% of the kits being sold have incomplete plans or the wrong plans altogether.  That is why I look for more information.  From a museum, archive, photos, the company, etc.  On my Benjamin W. Latham I did a lot of detailed research down to the kind of pumps and toggle bolts it used.  This is what makes it fun.  Many years ago I was asked to build a kit from Dikar.  All I remember about the thing was that it was a French frigate.  But the entire rigging was all English.  And I turned it down.  Plans are the key.

David B

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Ahh - but how to use those plans is just one big mystery to me so far!!! That is more daunting to me - just where and how to start. I have read about them. I have watched DVD on it - but still it's not 100% clear. But this build s just sensational

Current builds:

MS Syren

HM Suppy

Dos Amigos

 

 

 

Completed:

Schooner for Port Jackson

MS 18th Century Longboat

Bounty Launch

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Meredith,

 

I do not know which plans you talk about.

 

Where and how to start?

 

There are many peoples who are ready to help you if you just ask.

There are mentor whos can guide you personnally through NRG.

There are books written by David and Ed who show you all the main avenues.

Answers do exist,  and just like flowers are just waiting to be pick.

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Yes I know the answers are there.. I just have to figure what to ask :) I just find the plans a bit daunting.But like most things - once your take the plunge and start - it becomes much easier.

 

I saw the NRG mentor program - It sounded very interesting.

Current builds:

MS Syren

HM Suppy

Dos Amigos

 

 

 

Completed:

Schooner for Port Jackson

MS 18th Century Longboat

Bounty Launch

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Hello Gaetan.

Very nice build.

And I agree with you regarding scratch building.

Some people in our local group of modellers struggle to interpret plans and detailed drawings so starting scratch building is not always for the novice.

I think that forums like this are a very good help to scratch building.

 

Regards Antony

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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Gaetan, you are a master! It’s delightful to see your work in progress. I saw that you use small brass nails to secure the moldings in place. After that you glue it using the nails as a guide and simply cut it and do some refinement, or use another type of nail, like copper wire?

 

About plans I can only agree with you. The ANCRE’s monographs plans are very good and precise. And Boudriot’s 74 gun books have the best sketches I’ve ever seen.  

 

And Vivian, I also live in Sao Paulo and some years ago, I stood exactly where you now stand, fascinated with the hobby and always wanting to do some more. I built some kits (including a Chinese Junk from Amati) and now I’m building my first scratch POF Les Gros Ventre, since Gaetan has become my NGR mentor, I felt more confident, and with his big help my learning curve sped a lot. As I believe that knowledge must be shared, I can give you some short cuts in terms of tools and woods available in Brazil. Write me a private message, so we can speak in Portuguese.

 

Mauricio

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