Loarre Castle (Spain) by King Derelict - Aedes Ars 1/200

[AJohnson]

Well done Alan on reaching this milestone, really impressive looking model!  How big will it be in bench area with the cliffs and surrounding land?

[king derelict]

19 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Looks super nice, Alan.  Congrats on a major milestone.  

Thank you very much Mark. There were times I thought it would go back on the shelf in a dark cupboard

Alan

[king derelict]

12 hours ago, CDW said:

Spectacular model Alan. I have never seen something like this done until now. It’s sure to be a conversation piece for guests at your home.

Thank you very much Craig.

Aedes Ars has a wide range of subjects but you see very few builds out there. I suspect a lot get started and fizzle out. The brickwork is seriously repetitive. My Spanish friend who kindly bought this for me in Barcelona and paid an enormous shipping fee to the US thought it would be a restful weekend project - like Lego!

The other problem for detail modellers is that relative to the real thing the blocks are oversize for scale and there are generally simplifications. Having said that it does make a very impressive model that is instantly recognizable as the subject. It will be a while before I feel the need to attempt another one

Alan

[king derelict]

11 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Well done Alan on reaching this milestone, really impressive looking model!  How big will it be in bench area with the cliffs and surrounding land?

Thank you very much Andrew. Next up is painting some of the little 10mm figures. Lets see how good the eye surgery was!

 

The base is 21 inches by 26 inches. I haven't a clue where its going to go. I have a deep shelf in the lounge currently occupied by one of the cats beds. I may have to negotiate with them.

Alan

[mtaylor]

3 hours ago, king derelict said:

I have a deep shelf in the lounge currently occupied by one of the cats beds. I may have to negotiate with them.

Alan

Good luck with that.  Trying to outstubborn a cat is impossible.

[king derelict]

The crenellations were added after a bit of a mental debate and a lot of staring at pictures of the real thing. Its a reasonable balance between the scale and working with the stone blocks. A lot of sanding and then filling and then more sanding but this morning I decided I was happy with where I had got to. I think i could finesse myself into an endless loop of tidying. Especially as you start causing other problems if you overwork things.

So I brushed on a coat of matte varnish as a sealant. IT locks up the mortar in the cracks and generally seals things. It also has the happy effect of bringing out the colour of the blocks and improving the definition of the separate pieces.

I dusted off the base and put together the components of the castle. I'm not sure if this is a motivational image (we have come a long way) or a depressing one (a lot still to do.

Actually there are a lot of different things to do now that the blockwork is finished

The card pillars seem to support the weight of the main towers but I'm thinking of adding some extra supports too

I have decided to add lights to the bases of the semi-circular outer towers. A light needed to added to the keep too.

I have a bunch of miniatures to paint.

Groundwork on the main towers

The big one is deciding how to build up the landscape. I'm currently leaning towards building up the basic shape with extruded foam pieces and then final shaping them with Sculptamold or similar. I'll add plaster cliffs and rocks as I build up the Sculptamold. The photos of the real thing show a more complex landscape than Aedes Ars does so I need to decide how far to go with it. There are some nice rock pinnacles in the real landscape that I fancy trying, probably a core of foam and faced with plaster. 

Thanks for looking in and all the likes and comments. A change of pace moving forwards.

Alan

 

 

[CDW]

Beautiful, Alan.

 

How much do you estimate this castle will weigh once it's all finished? What are the finished dimensions of it?

[Old Collingwood]

That is  looking Superb Alan   -  just  think  for  a  minute  -  you have  built  it   brick by brick,  its   a credit  to  all  your hard  work  with a  project that  could have  driven anyone  up the  wall.

I think the  idea  to  support  the  main  block  is  a  very good  idea  as  it wont been seen.

 

Loving this  build  mate.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

On 11/20/2023 at 8:11 PM, CDW said:

Beautiful, Alan.

 

How much do you estimate this castle will weigh once it's all finished? What are the finished dimensions of it?

Thank you very much Craig. The base is about 21 x 26 inches and it’s going to be about 16 inches high. It did belatedly occur to me that I should have weighed the kit in the box. Amazon says the kit weighs 11 lbs. Add a piece of 3/4 inch plywood as the base and an amount of plaster. Probably 20 lbs?

Alan

 

[king derelict]

On 11/20/2023 at 10:14 PM, Old Collingwood said:

That is  looking Superb Alan   -  just  think  for  a  minute  -  you have  built  it   brick by brick,  its   a credit  to  all  your hard  work  with a  project that  could have  driven anyone  up the  wall.

I think the  idea  to  support  the  main  block  is  a  very good  idea  as  it wont been seen.

 

Loving this  build  mate.

 

OC.

Thank you very much OC. The brushing on of the matte coat is a magical moment when the color comes out and it all suddenly looks so much better.

Ive cut some blocks of extruded foam to add to the cardboard supports 

alan

[king derelict]

Putting the built elements together gave me a bit of a pause for thought. All that to be filled in? I think its a case of eating the elephant - one spoonful at a time. So I added some foam blocks to the cardboard supports for the tower. That has the happy advantage of providing a much better gluing area as well as more structural support.

I added lights to the base of the outer towers and to the keep.

I'm now experimenting with the ground cover in the towers. I had originally thought of a thin skim of coloured plaster with some sort of texture added but I was a little worried about it soaking and distorting the cardboard base and also cracking. 

Somewhere in my browsing I found yet another handy MIG product.

This is an acrylic based product that has a gritty texture and comes in a variety of colours to simulate sand, clay, concrete and more. The MIG website shows it being brushed or spread on a variety of bases and looked pretty controllable (you can even mask it). Its supposed to be a mix of adhesive, pigment and texture and I suspect is something that you could make yourself given a bit of motivation

So I tried some in one of the small courtyards and it would not stick to the cardboard base. I eventually got it to spread by diluting it with matte medium but it was a bit of a fight.

I backed off to experiment a bit (should have done that first). I wondered if it was the slight shine on the cardboard that was the problem so I coated a trial piece  with gesso. Let it dry and it made no difference. Stuck to the brush, stuck to the spatula and just stirred around on the base. 

For the next trials I painted a base coat of craft acrylics in brown and buff and then worked a diluted (water this time) mix over the top of it. The buff base works I think. I can work the texture to blend in the bases of the figures. 

So I think its a better option than the plaster but it is not behaving as MIG demonstrates. If anyone has used this stuff and can see what I'm doing wrong please let me know.

As a relief from the fight with this texture stuff I selected a number of figures and gave then a coat of Mr Metal Primer. I then added a thin coat of gray acrylic primer mainly so I could see the details of the figure better. The initial painting has started and has a way to go!.

Thanks for looking in, for the likes and comments

 

Alan

 

 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Alan,  is  this  for  the  built up areas  of  terrain   where  its  quite a  slope  or  the  more  flatter  areas  inside the  curtain wall?

Could  you  not  use  some  trim able  sponge  of foam that you could  trim to  shape   - they  type  model scenery  builders  use,   if its  for  the  inner  areas  - if there are  some  raised areas  to  be  built  up,  couldn't    foam sponge  again  be used  and  trimmed  to  size and shape.

For  the  surface  -  stones  -  dirt  -  grass   etc    you  can get  these types  of  spray glues    (I have used them  on my dio  to fix down the  grass  sheet  that  had a  kind  of  cardboard underneath)    https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/warworldscenics/Glues/_i.html?store_cat=41576272016

 

They  also  do  all  sorts  of  scenery products.

 

OC.

 

 

[Egilman]

Whenever I was doing a mountainous terrain, I always affixed a wire screen over the cardboard/foam base shape, same technique as plastering a wall or stucco applied to a brickface on an outside wall... (chicken wire works well and is what holds the plaster to the base shape) With that, the plastering comes easy, you mix it the consistency of thick caking mud and the first coat just covers the screen... It's to fill in the spaces between the screen and base material.. Allow it to fully harden... (couple of days, don't worry about the finish texture this is just the first coat) Any cracking should take place here and is easily filled in by the next coats of plaster...

 

The second coat should be a slight bit thinner than the initial mud coat, a gooey mud that will stand in piles... with this you skim the previous surface smoothing out the shapes to what you envisioned and filling in any gaps or cracks...

 

If your going to use any rock face molds, this is where you attach them using the gooey plaster as the glue in the same technique as tiling a wall or floor....

 

When it is completely dry, then you think about texturing, you will have a completely rough matte surface, in your basic finished shapes, that will take any paint or texture application you might have a desire to try directly on it's surface using simple water glues or even the thinned paint itself.... Brush it on or spray it on... Yes it will soak into the plaster, this is what you want for good sound adhesion and color depth....

 

I would suggest making a small mountainous shape out of cardboard or foam, cover it with chicken wire and try it as an experiment, make yourself a little rocky mountain.... (maybe add a few trees and bushes in the cracks and crannies along the way) It's really easy...

 

It is so easy, that once you have done it you will never forget how....

Edited November 25, 2023 by Egilman

[Jack12477]

2 minutes ago, Egilman said:

would suggest making a small mountainous shape out of cardboard or foam, cover it with chicken wire and try it as an experiment, make yourself a little rocky mountain.... (maybe add a few trees and bushes in the cracks and crannies along the way) It's really easy.

I would use fine mesh nylon/plastic window screening material, lighter and easier to work than wire. 

 

Is this a flat or relatively flat area you're trying to texture ?  If it is, use the same technique I used in my tank dioramas (see links in my signature). 

[Egilman]

1 minute ago, Jack12477 said:

Is this a flat or relatively flat area you're trying to texture ?

Some of it is, some of it is steep/vertical rockface brother, he really needs a combination of both techniques....

 

Yes, Great suggestion, Nylon window screen is better than chicken wire...

[Jack12477]

I would recommend Hydrocal plaster, it's lightweight but extremely strong, been used by Model Railroaders for decades to make lightweight  hard shell scenery. See my discussion here.. Also school kids white glue, Elmer's is one brand, diluted 50-50,  plus toilet paper or Kleenex style tissue can be used to make pathways, roads, trails, etc.

Edited November 25, 2023 by Jack12477

[Canute]

Plaster impregnated gauze is another technique. It's the stuff doctors use to apply a cast. May have to hold it in place until is starts to set for vertical locations. You know it's setting when it gets warm.😉

[king derelict]

On 11/24/2023 at 8:45 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Could  you  not  use  some  trim able  sponge  of foam that you could  trim to  shape   - they  type  model scenery  builders  use,   if its  for  the  inner  areas  - if there are  some  raised areas  to  be  built  up,  couldn't    foam sponge  again  be used  and  trimmed  to  size and shape.

Thank you for the suggestions OC. I have some large blocks of extruded foam that was packing for some electronic thing that I have been saving with the landscaping in mind. My previous efforts with this stuff was complicated by the need to make deep cuts and my sharp knives didn't have the reach. Even sneaking a good kitchen knife didn't really do it.

I just ordered a cheap hot wire cutter which I think might help.

Alan

[king derelict]

On 11/24/2023 at 9:30 PM, Egilman said:

Whenever I was doing a mountainous terrain, I always affixed a wire screen over the cardboard/foam base shape, same technique as plastering a wall or stucco applied to a brickface on an outside wall... (chicken wire works well and is what holds the plaster to the base shape) With that, the plastering comes easy, you mix it the consistency of thick caking mud and the first coat just covers the screen... It's to fill in the spaces between the screen and base material.. Allow it to fully harden... (couple of days, don't worry about the finish texture this is just the first coat) Any cracking should take place here and is easily filled in by the next coats of plaster...

Thank you EG. As always great advice. I'm thinking this might be the best solution for the steep sections. I suspect the solution may well be a combination of techniques using them in the appropriate areas. I think some experimenting on something expendable is a definite need before going for the real thing. Too much time invested in that brickwork

Thanks again

Alam

[king derelict]

On 11/25/2023 at 7:21 AM, Jack12477 said:

I would recommend Hydrocal plaster, it's lightweight but extremely strong, been used by Model Railroaders for decades to make lightweight  hard shell scenery. See my discussion here..

Thanks Jack. I ordered some Hydrocal. 

 

On 11/24/2023 at 9:37 PM, Jack12477 said:

would use fine mesh nylon/plastic window screening material, lighter and easier to work than wire.

I have a roll of plastic screening mesh in the garage left over from replacing screens on the windows. Time to experiment.

 

Thanks again. Some great suggestions

 

Alan

[king derelict]

On 11/25/2023 at 7:38 AM, Canute said:

Plaster impregnated gauze is another technique. It's the stuff doctors use to apply a cast. May have to hold it in place until is starts to set for vertical locations. You know it's setting when it gets warm.😉

Thank you Ken. I just ordered some plaster bandages. Very helpful suggestion.

I remember the warm bit when I broke my arm. At least there won't be itching this time

Alan

[king derelict]

Thank you @Old Collingwood, @Canute and @Egilman for some really helpful suggestions. I have screen mesh, plaster, extruded foam in sheets and blocks. I have ordered Hydrocal, plaster bandages and a hot wire foam cutter. Let the fun begin. I just cleaned the dust from the blocks out of the garage so I'm all ready for a new mess.

 

I have been working on a selection of figures to add a bit of scale to the towers For the figures in slashed doublets and breeches I used a base yellow and dry brushed the red on top. I think its effective for the size of the figures. These figures are 10mm tall so there are limits - at least for me. I did try for moustaches and beards with varying degrees of success. I still need to touch up the details and correct some overpainting.

I also need to decide on a colour for the shields> I was going for yellow but yellow seems to be a horrible paint to get good coverage with so maybe blue. SSerious medievalists and figure painters are probably running screaming for the hills.

So far I am happy with some, less so with others but I will try to refine them.

I am wondering whether to try a dark wash over the details but I'm concerned that the figures are so small it will overwhelm the paint. Any thoughts?

There will be a bit of a break for a few weeks. I am working tomorrow and on Friday flying to Manchester UK to start a three week vacation. Starting with seeing a cousin in North Wales then flying to Copenhagen and then train to Berlin to visit more friends. Train to Arnhem and then Amsterdam before returning to the UK to spend a week with my 98 year old dad. It sounds like I can leave the flip flops and board shorts at home and think about some cold weather gear.

 

Thanks for looking in and thank you for all the support and helpful comments

 

Alan

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Firstly  -  have a  Great  vacation  (yes  rap up  warm and  dry).

 

Now   for  your  figures  -  they are looking  really good  especially  considering the  scale   10mm       I would  try  a  light wash  over   with  either  of the   Army Painter  Acrylic  washes  or even the  Citadel Shade  Agrax Earthshade,  they are so thin  that they can be  brushed  over  and  any areas of excess  can just  be  brushed off  with  a  clean brush  -  you will  be  supprissed  how well  they  bring out  the details.

 

OC.

[AJohnson]

Figures are looking great Alan, have a great vacation, yeah it’s a bit colder here atm, but nothing compared to continental winter weather!  

[Jack12477]

Enjoy your vacation

[king derelict]

15 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Firstly  -  have a  Great  vacation  (yes  rap up  warm and  dry).

 

Now   for  your  figures  -  they are looking  really good  especially  considering the  scale   10mm       I would  try  a  light wash  over   with  either  of the   Army Painter  Acrylic  washes  or even the  Citadel Shade  Agrax Earthshade,  they are so thin  that they can be  brushed  over  and  any areas of excess  can just  be  brushed off  with  a  clean brush  -  you will  be  supprissed  how well  they  bring out  the details.

 

OC.

Thank you very much OC. I have the Agrax Earthshade so I will give it a try on one of the figures and see what we get. I am very impressed with the Pendraken figures, They have packed a lot of detail into such small figures and with the Mr Metal Primer I have been surprised at how well the paint has taken (apart from the yellow)

 

Looking forward to the holiday; catching up with a lot of friends and family at a special time of year.

 

Alan

[king derelict]

9 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Figures are looking great Alan, have a great vacation, yeah it’s a bit colder here atm, but nothing compared to continental winter weather!  

Thank you Andrew

I remember the east wind in Berlin this time last year. It cut through clothing like a knife. My dad is all fired up to visit the National Arboretum so I'm hoping for a decent there

Alan

[king derelict]

1 hour ago, Jack12477 said:

Enjoy your vacation

Thank you Jack

I'm looking forward to it.

Alan

[Canute]

Enjoy your vacation, Alan. This is a great time of year with the Christmas markets. Be safe.

[king derelict]

I’m still out there. I’m sitting in front of the fire at my cousins cottage in North Wales and thinking about a glass of wine.

Christmas markets in Berlin and Copenhagen were great and snow in Berlin made it look festive

The Arnhem Airborne museum is spectacularly good. The photos are on my camera unfortunately but it’s definitely worth seeing 
Took my dad to the National Arboretum to make his yearly pilgrimage to the Parachute Regiment memorial 

They have a nice Pegasus bridge monument now

Also new is the HMS Sheffield memorial, the Shiny Sheff

I’m looking forward to catching up on logs when I get home. I’m getting badly behind but as usual the work is uniformly high standard.

I should be home late on Tuesday. My cats have probably gone feral.

Best wishes everyone 

alan