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Loarre Castle (Spain) by King Derelict - Aedes Ars 1/200


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I would suggest streaked/blotchy green/grey for the grass and tan for the dirt/rocky pathways.... (green-grey would probably be even better) Like the rocks, you don't want uniform....

 

If the mediums come out a bit stark, you can always tone them down, but you can't brighten them up if they are muted... Here is where the water based acrylics shine in application... (cause you can use a simple spray bottle for application)

 

The rocky cliff faces look spot on....

 

This is going to be spectacular....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

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"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Fantastic  work  with  the  rocks   -  they  look  realistic  to  me,   another idea  for  the  areas to be  grassed  -  perhaps  and  earthy  look  as any slight gaps between  the  grass  would  look like  soil - earth,   I would  also  suggest  some  soil - dirt   sprinkles  in  certain areas  -  that  might look  quite  natural.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Alan, this is spectacular!  I just caught up with your log and had missed all the recent progress.  Really nice job!  

 

Can I ask what the overall dimensions of the project are?  

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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On 1/18/2024 at 8:35 PM, Egilman said:

I would suggest streaked/blotchy green/grey for the grass and tan for the dirt/rocky pathways.... (green-grey would probably be even better) Like the rocks, you don't want uniform....

Thank you very much EG. I made some trials and ended up with green - grey. It seems to have dried a bit greener than I planned but I think it will still work under the grass.

Alan

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On 1/18/2024 at 8:53 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Fantastic  work  with  the  rocks   -  they  look  realistic  to  me,   another idea  for  the  areas to be  grassed  -  perhaps  and  earthy  look  as any slight gaps between  the  grass  would  look like  soil - earth,   I would  also  suggest  some  soil - dirt   sprinkles  in  certain areas  -  that  might look  quite  natural.

 

OC.

Thank you very much OC. I was a bit nervous about the quantity of cliffs that needed to be worked but I'm really pleased with the result. Using Sculptamold as the material to glue all the cast cliffs into place worked much better than using straight plaster.

I think I will need some bare patches amongst the grass. I'm thinking some of the Mig saand effect might be worth trying. It can be buried under the grass if it doesn't work.

Alan

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On 1/19/2024 at 11:29 AM, Landlubber Mike said:

Alan, this is spectacular!  I just caught up with your log and had missed all the recent progress.  Really nice job!  

 

Can I ask what the overall dimensions of the project are?  

Thank you very much Mike.

The landscaping is a fun exercise after all the brickwork.

The model is going to 26"L x 24" W and 16 " high. And its heavy. 

I'm rather puzzled wondering where to display it.

Alan

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I experimented with basic background colours for the grass areas. These will be predominantly covered in dry grass with greener shades where there is more shade or water.

I decided on a green grey mix for the base and added some dry grass to assess the effect

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I think that is going to work so I painted in all the grass areas. Its dried a bit greener than I expected but from a distance it looks quite good without going further. At least its an indication of what the finished model may look like

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I added a few more rocks and found that I had forgotten the cliffs at the back corner so they were built up and painted.

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Trees and bushes get added to the back side so I kept the lower cliffs fairly simple.

 

Ready to add grass I think

 

Thanks for looking in, all the comments and helpful tips and likes

 

Alan

 

 

 

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Alan, I think once your grasses go on, you'll forget the ground paint. Nicely done.👍

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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After experimenting off the model I started with the grass. I used a bottle of Woodland Scenics scenic cement for the work so far. It dries matte and can be sprayed or painted. Working on a small area at a time I painted on a coat of it and then started adding grass. I found I didn't like the shaker bottle to dispense the grass. I was getting too much and over too large an area. What seems to work for me is taking an amount of the grass from the bottle on an appropriate artists palette knife and then adding it to the model by tapping the edge of the palette knife. That gave me far more control of how much and where I was placing the stuff. 

I started with WS fine yellow turf and when I was happy with what I had applied I gave it a sprayed coat of the WS scenic cement. Then I added WS fine blended turf using the palette knives again. They were great for getting the grass under the walls where it might be wetter and shadier.

This shows the yellow and blended turf in the foreground and the yellow only further back\

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The same treatment was given to the next section

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I have some WS light green coarse turf which will be the next layer. I think that will break up the texture a bit and also take some of the starkness out of the blended turf. Its a bit dark for my liking. I'm learning as I go here but so far its taking shape. Then bushes and trees and some gravelly areas 

I think I will run out of the WS glue before finishing so I will be switching to diluted white glue although I have also read that diluted matte medium works well too so I may try that both need a few drops of dish soap to aid dispersal.

 

Thank you all for looking in, for the comments and likes.

 

Alan

 

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What you may wish to consider, is before adding your top fixative, spray a mist of water mixed with isopropyl alcohol to wet the surface of the WS ground foam. This will help the glue (or acrylic medium) to wick into the foam. Otherwise you run the risk of having the ground foam forming a hard shell, top and bottom, with an unglued middle. Long term this will be prone to cracking.
Wetting the ground foam also has the added benefits of keeping it in place when you drizzle on the top coat of glue, as well as helping the glue cover a greater surface area (meaning you’ll need less glue).
 

Otherwise, it’s looking very good!

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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9 minutes ago, realworkingsailor said:

What you may wish to consider, is before adding your top fixative, spray a mist of water mixed with isopropyl alcohol to wet the surface of the WS ground foam. This will help the glue (or acrylic medium) to wick into the foam. Otherwise you run the risk of having the ground foam forming a hard shell, top and bottom, with an unglued middle. Long term this will be prone to cracking.
Wetting the ground foam also has the added benefits of keeping it in place when you drizzle on the top coat of glue, as well as helping the glue cover a greater surface area (meaning you’ll need less glue).
 

Otherwise, it’s looking very good!

 

Andy

Thank you very much Andy

That is a very helpful tip. I'll try the diluted alcohol spray as I move onto the next layer of turf and weeds.

Alan

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Excelllent   progress  Alan,   its  all  pulling together   now   with  each  step.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Look like your on the way to a grand finish....

 

Well Done!

 

That is a large intricate landscape to start with....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Where will you display this masterpiece, Alan? Visitors will love seeing this. All the little ones will want to touch it, though. 

Yesterday I was at Lowes Home Improvement store searching their plexiglass inventory. Covid caused prices for it to skyrocket according to the clerk. Hasn't come down in price since that surge in demand.

Are you considering enclosing the castle behind protection, like plexiglass?

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8 hours ago, Egilman said:

Look like your on the way to a grand finish....

 

Well Done!

 

That is a large intricate landscape to start with....

Thank you EG

A lot of the credit goes to all the help I've had from you all. Youtube is a great resource but this is a massive topic with so many ways of making a great landscape that its hard to navigate

Many Thanks

Alan

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2 hours ago, CDW said:

Where will you display this masterpiece, Alan? Visitors will love seeing this. All the little ones will want to touch it, though. 

Yesterday I was at Lowes Home Improvement store searching their plexiglass inventory. Covid caused prices for it to skyrocket according to the clerk. Hasn't come down in price since that surge in demand.

Are you considering enclosing the castle behind protection, like plexiglass?

You are right about the price of plexiglass Craig. I don't trust myself to cut sheets of plexiglass accurately so I get them precut from TAP Plastics (a great resource and very efficient). 

I went to their website last night to check the price of a set of 3/16 sheets to build a case - $120 roughly! I'm going to do it though. Although my cats are pretty good I have invested too much time in this one to be happy about coming home to find someone has pulled all the foliage off the model. It seems that there are lot of people who can't look at something without using their fingers.

Finding a place to display it is going to be interesting. I wandered around with the tape measure earlier and found that the two candidate spots are actually too small.

I've seen photos showing display cases built into a thrift store coffee table which is interesting but my woodworing skills are horrible so I'm not sure I can pull that off.. Its getting close to needing an answer though

Alan 

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I added some of the Woodland Scenics coarse turf and found it difficult to work with. It doesn't seem to shake out onto the model. It seems to need to be sprinkled between fingers and then there is a tendency to ball up. I wonder if it works better on larger scale models. For me it looks like small bushes rather than coarse turf. So I was happy enough with teh small amount that got added but I decided not to use any more and moved onto WS bushes and briars to build up the vegetation on the cliffs and rocks. Its quite fun to do this but I am nervous about overdoing it. This looks about right looking at photos of the real thing.

RIMG2046.thumb.JPG.74c5b815b8af3d0d9a31ac25cbd926ca.JPG

To add the bushes I used full strength white glue and then a coat of the scenic glue once everything was in place

RIMG2047.thumb.JPG.8074dc431308fbb3d4b214a49ad2a406.JPG

 

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The rocks at extreme left look a bit stark so they may get worked over.

 

I moved off the model and started working on trees. The first ten have been made from WS pine armatures and initially dark green foliage clumps but I found them hard to work with to get a conifer shape so I moved onto conifer green fine leaf foliage. Its a bit unpredictable but there are some nice effects and its possible to get bare branches in amongst the foliage. The stands are temporary bases while the glue dries. They will be added to the base by punching a hole into the foam blocks.

These will get a coat to scenic glue and then I'll start building up that side of the model

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Thanks for looking in, all the great comments and help.

 

Alan

 

 

 

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Really looking great! Your experience with the WS coarse turf is typical, not much you could have done differently,   larger scale or otherwise. Not sure why they insist on selling it in shaker bottles, I guess it stores better on a shelf! You’re working at a scale where it best represents scrubby bushes, so placing down one small clump at a time is very effective. Model scenery is, at best, an illusion meant to fool the eye when viewed from a typical distance.

 

Keep up the great work!

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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7 minutes ago, realworkingsailor said:

Really looking great! Your experience with the WS coarse turf is typical, not much you could have done differently,   larger scale or otherwise. Not sure why they insist on selling it in shaker bottles, I guess it stores better on a shelf! You’re working at a scale where it best represents scrubby bushes, so placing down one small clump at a time is very effective. Model scenery is, at best, an illusion meant to fool the eye when viewed from a typical distance.

 

Keep up the great work!

Andy

Thank you very much Andy. This is a whole new world of products and some of the WS foliage and grass variants were a bit of a wrestle to get looking right. I'm pretty much staying with the fine turf, bushes, briars and fine leaf foliage with some foliage clumps and coarse turf acting as low scrub and small bushes. I am amazed at what can be done with a railway layout. Some beautiful work out there.

Thanks for the encouragement

Alan

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1 hour ago, king derelict said:

I am amazed at what can be done with a railway layout.

Alan, do a Youtube search for John Allen's Gorre and Daphetid RR .  He's passed on, railroad was destroyed when his house burned after his death but there are plenty of videos. His was considered the epitome of model railroads. (The name was a pun - Gory and Defeated)

 

 

I've had the same challenges with scenery,  you're doing well. 

Edited by Jack12477
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More   excellent work my friend   -   dont foreget  to play with  some  washes  and  dry  brusing   for  the  highlights   when  you  have  done  adding  details, as  they   will  help  to  bring the details   out  and  really make  it  pop.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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