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Posted
3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Deck ledges are narrower timbers that run between the carlings athwartships.

In most depictions I have seen the quarter deck doesn't seem to have these only the main deck. Is that just a modelling convention or was that actual practice and do you know why?

Posted

Post Eight-one

 

Quarterdeck knees

Prepping the knees didn’t take that long, but it helps to have a system.

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Fitting these parts does mess up the painted bulwarks, fortunately there is plenty of room for cleaning up. Were I doing this job again I would have left the area of the beams covered by the knees unpainted before fitting, also the sides of the hanging knees where they attach to beam and Lodging knees.

Easier to touch in the paintwork rather than scrape away, and then have to clean up and re-touch anyway.

 

This time I fitted the full hanging knees first, followed by the short versions, and then the Lodging knees.

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This photo shows the trimming necessary to allow the knee to sit flush with the beam camber. The rebate on the back edge was lengthened a little to allow the knee to meet the beam camber at the deck clamps.

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I had imagined that fitting the Qtr deck Hanging knees would be trickier than those of the Foc’sle due to the tumblehome of the topsides.

Surprisingly I found the opposite, but perhaps my experience with the Foc’sle improved my dexterity.

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As with the Foc’sle the Lodging knees presented little issues.

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I also added the hanging knees fitted below the Waist beams. Three should be fitted but the aftermost location is fouled by the large cleat to take the Fore sheets.🤔

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The Foc’sle beams were given a clean up.

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Onto the deck layout.

 

 

B.E.

22/09/2023

 

 

 

Posted

Post Eighty-two

 

Setting the deck planking.

A ply sub-deck is supplied in two halves that run the full length of the deck area.

I am starting with the Foc’sle deck and my first step is to separate this section from the rest.

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With this fettled I notice a lack of support in the area of the steam gratings/chimney, and it seems I will need to add deck ledges.

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I used 2x2mm pear section for the ledges.

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The sub deck will be used to maintain the correct deck height, but it will be modified to display more of the framing structure and give an enhanced view of the upper deck beneath the Foc’sle.

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I cut a clear template of the fo’csle deck to better see the beam layout below.

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This is the pattern I’m currently favouring.

It has symmetry and allows the fitting of the Fo’csle guns whilst exposing examples of the lodging knees.

The centre line fittings will be fixed atop the carlings and ledges and much of the detail of the Upper deck fittings will be visible.

 

It remains for the sub deck to be cut to match the pattern, ensuring uniformity before fitting.

 

B.E.

23/09/223

Posted

I can see your thinking but do you need to cut a test pattern for the quarter deck as well before committing? That way you can see the overall look? Just a thought.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

Posted

Post Eighty- three 

 

Fo’csle cont’d

 

The ply sub-deck has been fitted and the aftermost Fore jeer bitts (the ‘u’ shaped ones), put into place. On my build these did not require gluing into place.

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On the subject of the bitts note that the cross pieces both face aft. I’ve left mine off until the planking is completed.

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When it comes to the steam gratings a little bit of tweaking is required. These parts have been designed to sit atop the finished deck, so need building up by 2mm to match that level.

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They look ok but I do like to see a slight roundup to the head ledges.

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This is simply achieved by adding strip to the top and shaping to suit.

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Still in a rough state but you get the idea.

 

The final task is to impart a slight camber to the gratings. They are soaked and heat blasted around a large circumference tube of 11cm diameter.

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Happy with the result and onto the Qtr. Deck.

 

B.E.

25/09/2023

 

 

Posted

Post Eighty-four

 

The Quarterdeck

As with the Fo’csle I have tweaked the Quarterdeck to expose a greater area of the gun deck, whilst still allowing the full complement of carronades to be displayed.

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Checking the fit and working the pattern. The aft section which comprises the cabin areas will be fully planked.

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The design I settled on.

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The ply underdeck fitted with only minimum adjustment, masts and capstan barrel were used to ensure an even fit.

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The centre line combination of capstan step, Ladderway, and gratings were raised by 1mm to allow for the planking, and the Head ledges were raised to form a slight camber.

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NMM Amazon model

The contemporary model of Amazon has a very similar set-up and the slight round-up to the ladderway ledges is clearly seen, as are the covers to the ladderway.

Ladderway covers have been included with the ‘Indy’ kit.

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It is a sign of Chris’s dedication to authenticity that he has reflected the slight taper towards the stern of the grating set. This does mean that the gratings only fit one way, but the difference is subtle.

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With the camber formed on both ledges and gratings, the job is done.

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The Upper Capstan has been completed, and I slightly modified the Capstan step.

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Moving forward to the deck planking.

 

B.E.

27/09/2023

 

Posted (edited)

Making great progress. I like the modifications to show some of the ledges and knees. I just completed the quarter deck on mine, thinking all the while I’d be covering all of those up. Only I’d know they were there. I’ll have to give this solution some thought. 

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted

Thank you Glenn,

 

Once the decision has been made to build 'Navy Board' style it's just a question of how much deck to leave off. It is a pity to cover all that detail, but I would have done it even if I fully decked. I'll  be barely covering the Poop deck so all the cabin detail will be on view.

 

Given the purity of your joinery I would be very tempted to reveal a little more  on your 'Winnie'

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

Posted

Post Eighty-five

 

Looking at the Stern deck area.

I deduce from the blurb that the sections of deck covering the stern cabin, coach, and bedspace are fitted separately as the partitions are designed to fit between them onto the sub-deck.

This means that the traditional method of planking the Qtr deck starting at the forward end cannot easily be applied in this instance without the need to cut narrow slots post planking.

In normal practice the planking of this area would be tapered as it runs towards the stern, and some 33 strips would be required to do the job.

I concluded that there was little point in planking an area soon to be covered by the engraved faux wood block pattern, or for my preference the black and white sailcloth version.

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Starting aft I used the stern engraved maple pattern cut from the plans to give me the line of the aftermost partition which will mark the extent of the first planking.

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I used some spare 1mm ply sheet to cover the area in lieu of planking.

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The b/w sailcloth pattern was applied using spray mount.

I did take the precaution of making copies of the pattern before use.

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It’s a shame that the pattern was placed on a fold of Plan sheet 2, the line can be discerned, but not so much from directly above.

 

There is a lot to do in this small section, and I will spend some time sorting and assembling all the relevant parts, before I move ahead.

 

The deck planking proper will be done as a separate exercise forward of the fore-most partition.

 

B.E.

29/07/2023

Posted

Post Eighty-six

 

Fitting out the Cabin area. (Part 1)

Firstly, the Rudder housing is glued into place.

I like this Rudder housing with its compass design, and its properly scaled bench, something I had to contrive for myself with Sphinx.

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I firstly fitted the two aft sections (233/234) which slot into the stern framework. These are given a slight bevel to meet the adjoining pieces (231/232).  The central end panel (230) is then put into place.

At each stage the line-up with the top is checked.

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The top of the bench front, previously fitted, rises a little above the stern framework which gives the top a slight tilt aft to its fitting in the notched stern frames.

This seems to accord with the elevation drawing on plan 5.

 

Cabin screens/partitions

These need to be assembled to use as a guide to mark the areas of the coach and bedspace for planking.

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I used 4x1mm Box for planking which had to be placed to leave a 1mm spacing to allow the aft screen to sit down on the sub-deck. A 1mm strip was used for the purpose.

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Fitting the longitudinal screen between the bedspace and coach proved a little tricky. I found it necessary to trim the forward end to allow the front screen to fit and trim the bottom to allow the tab to sit lower in the deck screen slot.

I wonder if this is because the kit is designed for maple 0.8mm decking, and I’m using 1mm stuff.

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This is a critical area of the build and dry fitting and looking several steps ahead is essential in my opinion.

 

The parts can now be disassembled and made ready for painting and finishing.

 

B.E.

01/10/2023

Posted (edited)
On 9/29/2023 at 11:18 AM, Blue Ensign said:

It’s a shame that the pattern was placed on a fold of Plan sheet 2, the line can be discerned, but not so much from directly above.

To my eyes, the crease marks remain quite visible even with all the other elements to look at: tiny touches of flat black acrylic paint applied with a small brush to touch-up the squares will work a treat.

Edited by hollowneck
grammar

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted

Thanks Theo and Ron,

Contemporary models of this era show  a round-up to the head ledges, but difficult for kit manufacturers to do unless the coamings are made up separately. The laser cut approach taken by Vanguard provides a neat solution to these combined runs of hatchways and ladderways, but aesthetically I prefer the cambered style, and I think it helps reduce the 'kit' look, along with clearing all the laser burn.

 

 

Thanks Ron, I'll give it a go.👍

 

B.E.

 

 

Posted (edited)

Post Eighty-seven

 

Cabin furniture

It was the prospect of having nicely made scale furniture to fit out the cabin that released my inner dolls house maker, and partly persuaded me to invest in ‘Indy’.

I liked the idea of having this stuff insitu, clearly visible thro’ the mostly unplanked Poop deck.

 

The trick is to make it look good as achieved by the painter of the prototype build, detailed in the manual, and Jim’s build.

I would have dearly loved a sitting version of Pellew, at his desk or table, maps sprawled out before him, deep in thought.

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This famous painting of Nelson on the eve of Trafalgar, gives the sort of idea.

Come on Chris, how about it?

 

Awaiting receipt of some paint for the Great Cabin, I have spent a couple of days playing around with the furniture.

It is painted with Vallejo acrylics.

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This is the combination of colours I used.

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The items were washed is soapy water, and then primed. I use Vallejo Surface Primer (Black)

 

The base coat was made up using Burnt Umber lightened with Grey white and Sand Yellow, with added Hull Red and Dark vermillion.

Flat earth, Sand yellow and white grey were also used for dry brushing to highlight areas.

This is not formulaic; I just tweak the mix until it suits my eye.

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I did have some concerns about the obvious difference to the laser cut pearwood sideboard and thought about painting it to match, but the jury is still out on that.

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Not all this furniture will in the Great cabin.

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The wood tone changes depending on the lighting.

 

I probably won’t be able to resist fiddling with it further, perhaps some sheen to the tabletops.

 

Time to get back to the main event – I can see the Postie coming up the road.🤞

 

 

B.E.

05/10/2023

 

 

 

Edited by Blue Ensign
Posted
22 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

This famous painting of Nelson on the eve of Trafalgar, gives the sort of idea.

Come on Chris, how about it?

BE - I love the idea of your "inner dolls' house maker" coming to the fore!  Chris' furniture is fantastic for this, but you are right about the figures.  I'm in the process of furnishing and fitting the cabin of my Sphinx - maps, books, quill, inkpot, potrait of the wife etc. - but figures?!  It is the pose that is so important, which is why I fully support your nudge to Chris.  My Sphinx captain is a bashed version of your Captain Grim, hatless to fit in the cabin but still clutching his telescope unfortunately.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing how your cabin develops - and many thanks for your detailed commentary which is so helpful.

 

Nipper

Current build:  HMS Sphinx 1775 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

Completed build:  HM Cutter Alert 1777 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

Posted

Thank you Nipper, we can live in hope.🤞

 

Post Eighty-eight

 

Fitting out (Part 2)

The internal panelling comprising delicate 0.6mm sheets proved tricky to fit; mine needed reducing in depth to fit beneath the deck clamps, and I suffered some breakage around the door area.

The alignment with the gunports is critical and I spent the best part of a day tidying up the gunports of the cabin area in conjunction with test fitting the internal panelling.

Once content with the fit and with the aft screen, they could be prepped for painting.

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I primed the aft screen using Vallejo white/grey.

 

I made a colour palette up of my pastel/ blue grey range of paints for the internal decoration of the Great cabin.

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Humbrol (87) Steel Grey, and the kit recommended paint AK11817 are very similar, the Humbrol just a tad darker in tone, I would be happy with either.

Mrs W had the casting vote, and AK it was.

It is a good representation of a pastel shade so beloved of the Georgian age.

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The bulkhead panels were given a very light sanding with P1000 paper after painting.

Windows

The clear windows are fiddly little beggars to fit without smearing. I used stuff called Glu’n’Glaze to run around the hairline gap between glaze and opening.

Frames

I leave these brass etched items on the fret for prepping. They are position specific.

Acid is used to clean the frames before priming with VMS Metal prep 4K.

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For colour I’m using Vallejo Ochre brown for the varnished screens, and matching colour for the painted Great cabin screen.

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A final dry fit before gluing into place.

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I had a fair bit of cleaning up around the area of the doors thro’ to the Quarter galleries.  I will probably switch the doors around and position them open.

This part  of a build I particularly enjoy, but it surely is time consuming, three days’ work on this area.

 

B.E.

08/10/2023

 

Posted

and well worth the time spent, looks great, the new puppy is restricting my time at present, and  getting very little done

Posted

Post Eighty-nine

 

Cabin fitting (Part 3)

The ring bolts have been fitted to the bulwarks and deck.

Again I preferred Amati stuff to make up the bolts.

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At last the rear screen is fixed into place.

 

Cabin carronades.

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I like the way Chris has designed these to slide in and out to facilitate finishing off the outside of the hull.

 

The carronades are fitted on the ‘inside’ principle whereby they sit on chocks fitted against the bulwark, but with rear transverse trucks to allow the gun to traverse a few degrees.

I don’t see why the carronades can’t be assembled to allow them to pivot on their bases; if desired,  fit a pin long enough to travel thro’ the blocks and into the deck with the slide part left to swivel on the pin.

Lavery shows a system whereby separate pivots are fitted alongside the central one to allow the pivot bolt to be relocated to allow stowage of the carronade alongside bulwark to save space.

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I gave some thought to detailing the elevation screw with the addition of the turning bars, but at the scale involved the madness soon passed.🙄

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Just four of these seemed to take an age to assemble with the multiple stages. The iron work was chemically blackened, and the barrels treated with dark brown weathering powder after painting. I replaced the kit breeching ring with Amati 2mm rings and added the Royal Monogram to the barrel.

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The Forward screen is now fixed and the carronades can be  glued in place.

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I reversed the QG doors to an open position, the light passing thro’ gives more depth to the QG lights.

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Looking forward to furnishing the cabins.🙂

 

B.E.

11/10/2023

 

 

 

Posted
Posted

Post Ninety

 

Back in the furniture shop

I have re-visited the finish of the furniture.

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I was looking for a tone that better matched the varnished Pear of the sideboard and the stern bench.

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This time I played around with enamel paints. To get the effect I used Revell Wood brown satin (382) with added drops of Humbrol Matt Scarlet (60) to both darken and redden the tone a tad.

I think this more has the look of Mahogany about it, more typical of the 18th century.

 

Musings about cabin space.

I toyed with the idea of including a Captain’s cot in the bedspace but couldn’t quite figure out how it would be arranged. The cabin has a mere 9’9” depth and that 42 pounder carronade sits in the middle.

I have seen arrangements where the cot/hammocks are hung above guns, but there is only 1’6” space between gun and deck beam above.

The most obvious arrangement would be slung from the beams inboard of the gun and taken down each morning. It would otherwise inhibit access thro’ the double doors.

 

The Coach is less of a problem, where a table and chairs can be accommodated. Referred to as the Captain’s Dining room, I don’t see why anyone would want to dine in the confined space of the coach when the light and airy great cabin is available.

It would be more practically used as the secretary office / Captain’s larder/ storage.

Nelson’s expansive dining room as shown on Victory, this ain’t.

 

I have enjoyed myself today playing around with the furniture on my sea going dolls house.

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2327

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2323

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2325

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Fairly happy with the outcome, moving onto deck beams.

 

B.E.

12/10/2023

 

 

Posted

BE:  You didn't warn us that you were going to go full dolls' house!  It's magnificent and the colours you have achieved on the furniture is outstanding,  That subtle mix of varied "mahogany" colour on the table top looks so realistic.

 

Is that a wash basin or a commode you have built?  And who is the portrait of?

 

Nipper

 

 

 

Current build:  HMS Sphinx 1775 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

Completed build:  HM Cutter Alert 1777 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

Posted

Very stately environs it must be said. Have you thought about adding to the Captain's tabletop the "lesser of two weevils?"

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted

Post Ninety-one

 

Ponderings about the Poop

In the early days of development of Indy Chris made a few modifications in this area.

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development photo

Forgot to mention, I have moved the poop skylight back by 3 beams, as I realised it was too close the edge of the poop, so it is now over the great cabin, and not in the position shown.

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development photo

As I moved the skylight back so that it is now over the great cabin, I saw no reason not to add mizzen bitts and belaying cross rail.

 

Sensible modifications based on a practical approach in the absence of any original information. The official Indy plan (ZAZ2371) shows the skylight in its original position, and I cannot find a plan of the modified razeed Indy’s Poop deck framing.

 

We 20th century people have no idea whether Pellew may have preferred the light over the coach, rather than the better lit Great cabin, but aesthetically it certainly looks a lot better.

We do know that he wasn’t even very keen on the poop deck arrangement at all, but the Navy Board  did not accede to his wishes.

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2348

In framing the Poop deck Chris has left the timber arrangement of beams and carlings for the original position of the skylight before Indy was razeed.

 

For an oob build this has no relevance at all, but for my hoped-for arrangement it impacts on the Mizen Bitt placement should I choose to fit them.

I had in mind to place the Bitt pins atop the beams and leave that area unplanked, but under the present set-up there is no convenient beam to support the bitts.

In reality Mizen Bitts would be set into and bolted to the adjacent deck beams.

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One thing that bothers me about the placement of the Mizen Bitts is the distance from the Mizen mast. Most of the lines of the mast, the lifts, clews, and the like, come down thro’ the tops and belay close to the mast, often on a mast ring, even on large Frigates.

Maybe Chris’s original idea of racks incorporated either side of the Poop breast rail would work better, they would certainly be closer to the mast.

 

Even so, the bitts are a nice feature and should I choose to fit them I have two options;

Maintain the decking in that area, which would hide much of the Bedspace/Coach; which I don’t really want.

Or;

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Fit a ‘false’ beam (as above) between the carlings above the coach to support the bitts, plus carlings as necessary.

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I think I can tweak the position of the bitts by a couple of mm or so either way.

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Not decided which way to go, but I’ve some time before the need arises.

 

B.E.

14/10/2023

 

 

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