Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht

[Javelin]

13 hours ago, KeithAug said:

 

Eberhard / Phil - thank you. I figured they were inlets but nevertheless I thought they might be prone to blocking with debris such as plastic bags. If it were me I think I would do without the grille and compensate by including a strainer inboard of the sea cock. Much easier to clear blockages when dry and warm.

 

Thank you Gary.

that is indeed how it's done nowadays. But as Eberhard mentioned, Jelly-fish can be a pain too. I remember clearing 600kg of them from the seachests in Kuwait at some point. A single one is not an issue, they'll be cut to pieces when hitting a sharp object or grating, but a full invasion of them is a totally different thing.

The disadvantage of strainers inside is that you open a pipe to the sea below the waterline. You better be sure...

[KeithAug]

13 hours ago, Javelin said:

open a pipe to the sea below the waterline.

Yes Roel - that's why I would have the strainer inboard oh the seacock. I have pulled many a log from below the waterline to clear the impeller of weed. They all come with a bung tied to the housing so it is handy to plug the flow.

[KeithAug]

On 10/19/2024 at 7:37 PM, wefalck said:

I have not so nice mermories of having to clean out the blocked sewage system on a sailboat.

Eberhard - Yes we have all probably had that pleasure. I always marvelled at how many poorly designed WC systems were installed on otherwise well designed boats e.g. :-

 

The toilet pump changeover switch was always positioned where misdirected urine was bound to land.

The pump was invariably plastic and held on by 4 small screws on a fairly narrow mounting base. It flexed alarmingly and felt like it was going to come off in your hand.

The pump seal always leaked and invariably squirted brown water over the handle.

The seat was invariably loose and the fastenings were invariable corroded and inaccessible.

 

[KeithAug]

Time in the workshop continues to be hard come by. However I have made a little progress.

 

I increased my stress levels by boring various holes in the hull.

One of the holes has a concave dished shape around it so I made a dome shaped sander.

 

I shouldn't have bothered as the dish was almost imperceptible at model scale. 

I also made the half cover from brass. I turned a very thin brass washer with sharp edges and then used a ball bearing to press the dish. 

I also made the "depth sounder" feature and the fairing which protects it.

I made the grilles for the various hull penetrations from sheet brass - cut on the mill with a slitting saw.

The fingers were soldered to rings cut from brass tube. The edges were then filed flush.

I then started pondering the gingerbread again. I sized template on the printer and laid it in place.

My pondering led to plan 1 - i.e. cutting the gingerbread from brass sheet and then building up the thickness with something to give it bulk / texture. Plans 2, 3 or 4 may still be necessary.

 

I started with a little jewellery saw practice. The first efforts weren't really up to scratch. It may take some time but with a little more care I think I can make a reasonable job of cutting the brass sheet.

I think its going to take quite a few hours of sawing.

 

 

[Ian_Grant]

Suggestion: 3D print.

[druxey]

Photoetch might be a better solution.

[wefalck]

Yes, I would think that this would be a typical job for photoetching.

 

I would actually give it to my laser-cutter to chew ... and then build up the body with acrylic gel, followed by some gilding.

 

There are also these '3D-printing sticks', sort of hand-held extruders with which one can build-up such patterns.

Edited Saturday at 06:47 PM by wefalck

[KeithAug]

2 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Suggestion: 3D print.

 

2 hours ago, druxey said:

Photoetch might be a better solution.

 

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

I would actually give it to my laser-cutter to chew

Ian, Druxey, Eberhard - All much better ideas than cutting out with a jewellers saw. I sometimes like doing things the hard way! Photo etch is my option 2. I don't have access to a 3d printer or a laser cutter. Perhaps Santa will oblige.

[Dr PR]

If you photo etch brass you can then add solder to build it up to a rounded shape.

[KeithAug]

11 hours ago, Dr PR said:

If you photo etch brass you can then add solder to build it up to a rounded shape.

Phil - Yes I had picked up that technique from another build. I think my set up time for photo etch might be almost as long as sawing it out. I think I will try building up the thickness with thick oil based paint rather than solder. 

Edited Sunday at 03:05 PM by KeithAug

[FlyingFish]

That sawing looks very accurate Keith - worthy of any jewellers (except Ratners). Speaking as someone who doesn't have a 3d printer or etching stuff, I'd say persevere - for the satisfaction alone. Maybe build up with two part metal epoxy?

Edited 17 hours ago by FlyingFish

[Rick310]

Holy Cow Keith!! That is remarkable!

I agree with the jeweler’s saw option,  possibly building it up with thick cyano(?).

The grates look spot on!

Rick

[Dr PR]

Thick paint should work, building it up in layers. Epoxy "paint" might be good because it hardens and can be filed, sanded and polished.

 

I like working with solder because you can carve it with a hobby knife, scrape and file it to shape, and polish it with a wire brush.

 

But whatever you do I am sure it will come out excellent!

Edited 21 hours ago by Dr PR