RGS Rotary Snowplow by yvesvidal - DURANGO PRESS - On3 - 1/48

[yvesvidal]

Folks,

 

I have a passion for ships and model ships and you may have read some of the build logs I created with time. However, my real obsession is with model trains. 

I started collecting N-scale (1/160th) trains from the age of 10 up until 35, when I sold my N-scale collection to finance some much more expensive O-Scale models (1/48th). I have not stopped collecting steam (for the most part) and diesel locomotives since then. I also dwell in the realm of Gauge One (1/32th) but I am limiting myself, because of the hefty price of these models.

 

I usually publish all my articles in the O scale Magazine but various reasons are pushing me to publish the building of this model on this forum. This is a very old kit originally produced by Durango Press and re-done by Wiseman Models, if I am not mistaken. I have owned that kit for more than ten years and it was time to put it together. The building will be slow as I am also trying to finish the HMS Bellona in my little spare time.

 

 

This kit depicts the narrow-gauge (metric) Rio Grande Southern Rotary Snowplow #2 used to clean the tracks over the Cumbres and Marshall Passes. The rotary snowplow was build by the Portland Locomotive Company in 1892 and served for more than 50 years despite several derailments and fire damages. 

 

Fortunately, the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad association has been able to restore that rotary snowplow after 20 years of efforts and is operating again that marvelous machine. If you are interested, I invite you to watch that great video of the snowplow in full action (about 39 minutes): 

 

 

 

Yves

[Jack12477]

I started my N scale when Rapido first brought to the states around 1967. Still have all the original track, switches, etc, plus rolling stock. My layout was dismantled to make space for my son's HO scale US1 Trucking set. We go to ride the D&RGW Durango & Silverton narrow guage back in 1977.  Built a card stock and wood model of the Rotary in N scale.

 

Will be following along.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[yvesvidal]

The kit comes into a very small cardboard box, packed to the hilt. Honestly, I do not know how they can pack so many parts and the instructions into such a small box.

 

 

The kit has evolved and I can only talk about the Durango Press version which was the original kit maker. The WISEMAN Models kit is still available but I think some of the metal parts have been replaced with resin castings.

 

 

The instructions are somewhat clear, as long as you read very carefully the text. In full honesty, this is a very difficult kit because of the clear lack of description of the parts. You have to rummage through the various bags of parts to figure out what is what and where it goes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The parts are made mostly of soft white metals cast, and wood strips and plates. Some plastic parts are provided mostly for the shroud of the wheel.

 

Gluing white metal parts presents a challenge in itself and your CA glue is not always the best option.

 

Yves

Edited September 11, 2023 by yvesvidal

[Canute]

I'm following, too, Yves. I have an HO version, but the tender wrapper in in cardstock, where yours is brass.

[yvesvidal]

Well, following the instructions, the first task is to put together the chassis of the snowplow: 

 

 

This is done using hot glue. I find that the CA does not do very well with metal parts and does not provide the flexing required on such model.

 

 

The chassis is planned and filed as much as possible. 

 

 

The most important parts in a car, are the trucks. It is essential to build them first, to make sure that your chassis sits perfectly flat and that it rolls nicely and smoothly on the tracks.

 

 

The truck parts are all made of white metal, with the exception of the wheels and axles, made of plastic (Delrin). So, we do not have to worry about shorts or electric pick-ups.

 

 

 

Above is the front truck and below is the rear truck. The front truck has ice-breakers hanging from the front bar.

 

 

None of the trucks have any kind of working suspension. It is a lot simpler this way. Notice how the wheels are gathered inside the trucks, wheels sized for narrow gauge tracks. When PORTLAND LOCOMOTIVES COMPANY delivered the trucks to RGS, they sent two set of axles: one for narrow gauge and one for Regular Gauge. Only the Narrow gauge axles were used on the RGS tracks.

 

Below, you can see the difference between narrow gauge and regular gauge. On the metric gauge, wheels are a lot smaller as compared to the standard 33 inches Bettendorf trucks, found on most freight cars of that time. 

 

 

The kit provides cheesy wood screws to attach the trucks. I like mine strongly anchored into the chassis and thus, I resorted to drilling and tapping a 2.5 mm steel screw in the chassis bolsters: 

 

 

This is infinitely stronger and I recommend that solution if you wish to build that kit and make sure that this plow can roll on your layout.

 

 

Et voila! The chassis sits on its trucks and we can now move to the other sections of the build, having a good reference of height and stance.

 

 

Yves

Edited September 11, 2023 by yvesvidal

[Egilman]

{chuckle} It might be in miniature, but the engineering remains the same.....

 

Good work!

[yvesvidal]

Let's briefly talk about gauges for model railroads and what is On3 versus the more generalized and available On30.

 

The most common gauge is HO (1/87) and the distance between the rails is 16.5 mm.

We also have Z scale (1/220) with a gap of 6 mm between rails. Marklin is the leader.

Next is N scale (1/160) with a distance of 9 mm. Arnold Rapido invented it.

Then is HO (1/87)

Next is S scale (1/64), seldomly used and unfortunately rather expensive and hard to find.

Next is O scale (1/48) with a gap of 32 mm. This is called by certain people the King of Scale. Purists use Proto-48 which has a larger distance and much finer rails.

Next is Gauge 1 (1/32) with a distance between the rails, of 45 mm.

Finally, G scale (1/22.5), which is a narrow gauge, uses the same 45 mm track as Gauge 1.

 

In between these scales are narrow gauges: 

- Zn3 (never heard about that one).

- Nn3 (using Z scale tracks = 6 mm)

- HOn3 (using N scale tracks = 9mm)

- On3 and On30 (we will be back to these ones...). There is also On2....

- G scale (using the Gauge 1 tracks of 45 mm). This one is a narrow gauge, too.

 

The true O scale narrow gauge is called On3 (1/48). It uses a distance between tracks of 19.2 mm. There are no commercial tracks available for that gauge and you must lay your own track and build your own turnouts.

 

On30 is a derivative invented by Bachmann and using 1/48th scale models, running on an HO based tracks (16.5 mm). The idea of re-using existing HO tracks (granted, you have to space the ties...) allowed many train makers to develop O scale engines and rolling stocks, without having to worry about the availability of tracks.

 

Narrow Gauge Purists use On3 (19.2 mm). This kit is designed for On3 and therefore a piece of track must be built, to test the snowplow and to display it.

 

Yves

Edited September 11, 2023 by yvesvidal

[ccoyle]

You forgot TT (1/120, 12 mm). 😉

[Jack12477]

S scale came out sometime around 1948-1950 and I believe was introduced by American Flyer as the first 2 rail DC current model trains. My Dad had O scale 3 rail with I believe an AC transformer which required a rather clumsy method of reversing direction of the engine. Sometime after 1948 he sold his O scale railroad and bought American Flyer S scale with 2 rail track which he said was easier to wire.  I was a young-un then 😉😇. He later sold the American Flyer and bought HO scale. He still had his layout at age 100. 

[Doreltomin]

Also it should be said that British railroad modelling uses 1:148 as N scale and their H0 is 1:76, while Japanese N scale is 1:150. To add more confusion to the lot, Brits also use "fine scales" which are composite, or otherwise said are defined as a relation between an imperial and a metric unit. For instance "2mm" stands for "one foot for 2mm" or 1:152,4. 

Edited September 12, 2023 by Doreltomin

[realworkingsailor]

7 minutes ago, Doreltomin said:

Also it should be said that British railroad modelling uses 1:148 as N scale and their H0 is 1:76, while Japanese N scale is 1:150. To add more confusion to the lot, Brits also use "fine scales" which are composite, or otherwise said are defined as a relation between an imperial and a metric unit. For instance "2mm" stands for "one foot for 2mm" or 1:148,5. 

The British 1/76 scale is more correctly called OO scale, but it runs on HO gauge track (hence the presence of British made Peco track in the US market).

 

There was also an American OO scale as well (can’t recall the exact particulars, but it differed from the British), this scale largely went extinct with the increasing popularity of 1/87th HO scale.

 

Andy

[Jack12477]

13 minutes ago, realworkingsailor said:

There was also an American OO scale as well (can’t recall the exact particulars, but it differed from the British

I remember as a "wee-one" Dad and his brothers talking about O, OO and O27 scale/guage, but I don't recall the particulars either. 

[Egilman]

Well to actually get down to the brass tacks of model railroad scale, it is ALWAYS based upon the gauge of the rails, which is the distance between the rails.... "O" gauge being 1/48 the distance of real live american gauge rolling stock... This is known as "Standard Gauge" in real railroad parlance, all others are based upon this standard.... European gauge is also "Standard Gauge" as that is where it was mandated by law in 1846...

 

Standard gauge, 4' 8.5", (56.5 inches, 1,435mm) is the most prevalent gauge around the world..... so, true "O" scale would have a gauge of 29.9mm or 1.177 inches... And since everyone serious about model rail knows that "O" gauge is 32mm where does it get it's relation to 1/48th scale?

 

The point of what I'm saying, is there are 4, (maybe more) different standards for "O" gauge model railroading, which isn't 1/48th scale... (more accurately 1/43rd scale) in the '50's the american model railroad manufacturer's started building for scale accuracy and chose 1/48 scale as their standard for rolling stock (including Lionel) but stayed with the original gauge for their track, and over the years "O" gauge has given way to the term "O" scale in model railroading...

 

Scale and gauge are not interchangeable terms... any serious discussion of Model railroading scales needs to take this into account....

[yvesvidal]

Yes, the Model Railroading world has a lot of complexity based on history and countries. This also applies to real Scale 1 railroading and I remember the country of Spain changing the gauge of their rails, so that trains could go from France to Spain, without having to disembark all passengers and freight at the border. Spain is still working on retro-fitting their tracks to the standard European gauge. Enough said about these idiosyncrasies.

 

I have to build a test track for On3. I cannot buy these tracks, commercially. Since I am on a hurry, I am getting a piece of flexible PECO On30 tracks (16.5 mm wide - Code 100) and I will expand the distance between the rails, by simply cutting the ties in their middle: 

 

 

Using a KADEE coupler-and-track gauge for On3, I am spiking these two halves making sure the distance of 19 mm is respected all along.

 

 

Below is the result: not pretty but it is working and it allows me to test my snowplow and work all the kinks related to height, clearance and couplers.

 

 

Obviously, for the final display (if I finish that kit...), I will try to lay a true On3 track, using code 87 rails and wooden ties, spiked accordingly.

 

Yves

[Egilman]

Sorry bout that little history dribble brother, there are quite a few serious RR modelers here that already understood the differences, so I probably shouldn't have brought it up, but for the few that are unawares, it is a good thing to understand....

 

Didn't mean to de-rail your build log....

[Canute]

Yves, excellent work building up those white metal trucks. Using hot glue? I'll file that away in my tool bag, thank you.

 

You might try a yardstick to spike down the first rail of your test/display track. Keep it straight. Adding the second track the same way you've already demonstrated. Thankfully you aren't doing a curved section. A bit harder to get a totally smooth curve.

[Landlubber Mike]

Cool build Yves, I'm enjoying following along!

[yvesvidal]

A few progress on the snowplow chassis. The boiler bulkhead is installed as well as the ashpan:

 

 

 

I have also included the brake air line. We can now move to the painting of the chassis and trucks:

 

 

 

 

A piece of wood is glued to the rear to support the bumper and coupling bar. Below, I am also adding the two water lines that will be connected to the snowplow tender. You can see, to the right, the coupling bar pocket.

 

 

Back to the front, the axle of the wheel is installed. Careful positioning is done to make sure the shroud is just above the rails (that is why it is so important to have a piece of On3 track):

 

 

The kit provides usually only one support, but my kit has a bunch of spare parts and as such, I am using them: 

 

 

 

Yves

 

 

Edited September 15, 2023 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

Now is the time to build the wheel and the shroud: 

 

 

The shroud is mostly done with polystyrene parts and the shroud itself, made of some kind of resin. When you sand it, it has a specific kind of smell, reminiscent of Bakelite: 

 

 

The whole enchilada is then painted with Red Boxcar Floquil paint, airbrushed: 

 

 

 

Yves

 

 

 

[yvesvidal]

Assembling the wheel is a game of patience and precision: 

 

 

 

 

 

I do not think I will be painting the wheel as you see in Railroad Museums, as I believe this way of presenting the blades is to prevent them from corroding. I cannot think at any moments that such a device biting and chewing ice and snow, could keep any paint. I also like the metallic appearance of it as it offers a nice contrast.

 

 

On the track: 

 

 

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

It is now time to work on the tender, before making any more progress on the snowplow itself. The tender must be built and the close coupling to the main chassis must be tuned perfectly. The various lines linking both units, must also be created as they are not included in the kit.

 

The tender chassis is made of two layers of wood assemblies, as described by the plan: 

 

 

And this is where we are.....

 

 

Yves

[popeye the sailor]

such an interesting model Yves............your making me want to pull out my B&M snowplow  !  so nice to see some train builds     so much detail...........superb!

[Egilman]

4 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

I cannot think at any moments that such a device biting and chewing ice and snow, could keep any paint. I also like the metallic appearance of it as it offers a nice contrast.

It would be painted at the factory, and in usage would strip the paint off the leading edges, it wouldn't be completely bare metal but would look streaked and scraped bare metal with paint remaining in the areas that don't take a lot of stress.... (same with the inside of the shroud/intake chute which would be streaked with scrapes) they didn't chew much ice, mostly semi-compacted snow on the main routes...

 

One of the few still in use, this is the Donner Pass Blower/Plow...

Pretty much they are rebuilt/repainted every year in the off season...

Edited September 15, 2023 by Egilman

[thibaultron]

On 9/11/2023 at 4:22 PM, Egilman said:

Well to actually get down to the brass tacks of model railroad scale, it is ALWAYS based upon the gauge of the rails, which is the distance between the rails.... "O" gauge being 1/48 the distance of real live american gauge rolling stock... This is known as "Standard Gauge" in real railroad parlance, all others are based upon this standard.... European gauge is also "Standard Gauge" as that is where it was mandated by law in 1846...

 

Standard gauge, 4' 8.5", (56.5 inches, 1,435mm) is the most prevalent gauge around the world..... so, true "O" scale would have a gauge of 29.9mm or 1.177 inches... And since everyone serious about model rail knows that "O" gauge is 32mm where does it get it's relation to 1/48th scale?

 

The point of what I'm saying, is there are 4, (maybe more) different standards for "O" gauge model railroading, which isn't 1/48th scale... (more accurately 1/43rd scale) in the '50's the american model railroad manufacturer's started building for scale accuracy and chose 1/48 scale as their standard for rolling stock (including Lionel) but stayed with the original gauge for their track, and over the years "O" gauge has given way to the term "O" scale in model railroading...

 

Scale and gauge are not interchangeable terms... any serious discussion of Model railroading scales needs to take this into account....

And then the Bar Fight started!

 

Great build! I'm following along!

[Canute]

Yves, very nice progress. That yellow resin casting may have been done with Alumilite, which cures to that yellow shade. It has a distinct odor. Cast in hand held molds. You can buy kits to make your own parts using your home brew molds. I'm with EG. They were painted to preserve the parts. But some wise man said, it's your railroad. 😁

[yvesvidal]

Assembly of the snowplow tender continues. I cannot really make more progress on the snowplow section until I have worked out all the heights and connections issues, between the two units.

 

First thing first: the trucks. Always start with the trucks, as they are your foundations: 

 

 

 

Then, mount the trucks under the wooden chassis and check the heights with the snowplow and the KADEE On3 gauge: 

 

 

Install an On3 coupler in the rear: 

 

 

Height verification with the Snowplow section: 

 

 

It is lining up quite well. This kit is well thought out....

 

 

Installation of some underside details. It will be spartan as I do not like to build the braking system. It is not visible anyway.

 

 

This is where we are at the moment: 

 

 

 

Planking of the tender takes place: the kit is very tight fisted, and the amount of planks is just right....no room for a mistake: 

 

 

 

Some ink to stain the wood and we can move back to some snowplow chassis details.

 

Yves

 

 

[yvesvidal]

The shroud is finally installed on the snowplow chassis. Height is carefully estimated to 1 mm above the top of the rails: 

 

 

 

Yves

[Canute]

Yves, very nice work. Your build is proceeding nicely. I have an HO one and will be using this as a build guide. One question; did you spring the trucks? Kind of dark in the photos, so I couldn't tell.

[yvesvidal]

No spring on the trucks.

 

Yves

[ASAT]

Wow Yves, what a cool model and I really liked that video! Your craftsmanship shows in both of your modeling endeavors, my Father in law had a sweet Marklin layout, he emigrated from Germany in 1961, was quite the mechanic and pilot, really lived the American dream! I will continue to check in on your project! Awesome!