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Posted

Welcome...

 

I was very excited when i was able to get chapters 1 & 2 for this new project.

 

I already have my first question.IMG_0031.thumb.jpeg.689363b02d1e9912d861b801dd8de55a.jpeg

 

When test fitting parts of the stem assembly the instructions suggest only sanding slightly on certain edges of each piece. 

 

image.png.63e8c1bf188e39634609666f2ab4873c.png

However when I removed the pieces with no sanding, there is a slight gap.  Is it appropriate to correct the other end?

 

 

 

 

IMG_0030.jpeg

Posted

What does the gap look like on the other side? Remember, the laser doesn't cut perfectly straight, so I would think that a slight adjustment on the other end would be appropriate. I'm sure that Chuck will chime in.

 

Best Regards .... Rick

Posted

Glad to see a build log.
 

Yes…i actually have a photo of that. Which you posted.  The circled areas (on one end or the other of a given joint) need to be sanded to close the gaps. The gaps are intentional and yes you will need to sand the end of the scarph on the opposite side to close the gaps.  This will be especially true with each frame segment as the thick wood when laser cut leaves a curved and bevelled edge  that wasnt easily remedied by just flipping the pieces on the laser cutter.  So each piece will have one end that needs just a hair of sanding.


See the page of the 1st chapter that explains this.
 

Just a few swipes should do the trick.

 

Chuck

Posted

soon. just got mine yesterday.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

Posted

Maybe...but seriously we need more than two build logs.  If we can get that number up to ten or so then yes certainly.  But of those who bought the first dozen or so kits, if we see 3 build logs it will be a lot.   Lots of solitary builders out there unfortunately.

 

Chuck

Posted
29 minutes ago, sfotinos said:

What size drill bit for the treenails using 25lb line?

I think using the breaking strain of the line as a size measurement can be misleading. It would be better to look for a correct diameter rather than the breaking strain. That way you would also know what size drill to use.

Alternatively, measure the line with a vernier and buy the drill to suit.

Posted
On 4/4/2024 at 9:01 AM, sfotinos said:

What size drill bit for the treenails using 25lb line?

 

I pulled out some of my 25lb line and with a #74 drill bit on a piece of scrap I got a nice tight fit. 

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

Apologies if this is drifting from your build but I feel it’s worth noting for people looking to build to scale.

 

I just checked five different 25lb monofilament fishing lines and they were all different. The range was from 0.37mm to 0.52mm. Now 0.15mm which is .006 inch does not seem much, but the variation is actually more than 40%.

Hence me suggesting it is better to know the required diameter rather than the breaking strain.

 

Very nice start by the way.

 

Posted

 

Building has been continuing, I'm about ready to finish gluing the front apron.

 

Looking forward at the rising wood.  However laying it on the plans, the slots for the floors progressively get wider and wider and don't match my plans.  Sorry about the bad picture, maybe time to learn how to take a photo with the camera I bought six years ago?

 

Thoughts?

 

image.thumb.jpeg.12deeb9db67f9ab2457a8b11ac440543.jpeg

 

Posted

You are good to go...that one element (keel assembly) on the plans printed at the incorrect scale.  The laser parts are all correct so just keep going.   The plans have been corrected.  The guy at my printer must have grabbed the edge of that object in error and shrunk it horizontally (in Corel Draw).  At least that is what he said happened.  If you lay those pieces on the framing plan instead you will see they fit just fine.

 

Chuck

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Wondering if someone can answer my question.


I'm getting to the end of the keel assembly and noticed this from Chuck's log.


Notice there is gap between the upper apron.

 

image.png.d7045a1e035de861030dbbb23a0fa36a.png

However the plans don't show this gap, mine matches the plans?

 

image.png.1fe46c4d8c146ab3e1c885a28b0122f6.png

Another pic from Chuck's log.

image.png.ed0d878f7f05f25da10ece38c02d3f68.png

I'm curious if I didn't this wrong or if things changed?

 

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks 

Shawn

Posted

nope...You are good.  I changed that part of the deadwood later on after I built it.  The current plans are correct which match your parts which are also correct.   

 

It just made sense to change it after I built it the first time and makes building that area easier for all of you.   My model and log will sometimes be slightly different as improvements are made after the fact....so just follow the plans and instructions and you will be fine.

 

It will make adding the wing transom and creating the square tuck much easier.   

wingtransom4.jpg

Posted
On 4/3/2024 at 1:15 PM, Freebird said:

Chuck,

 

Do you think a group build like the Winnie would be a good idea?  Thoughts???

 

 Best Regards ….Rick

Chuck are there enough participants that we can start a group build?

 

Shawn

Posted

Im not sure…i will check though.  Its a ton of work to set up.  Let me see what the guys think about it as well…meaning the mods and admin.

Posted (edited)

One completed keel assembly.


Still needs finish applied, I may opt just to use sanding sealer.  I'm not a huge fan of wipe-on poly.

 

Everything pretty much fell together once things were tweaked just a bit.  


Couple of things...

  1. Be very careful with the knee of the head, I sneezed and broke one.
  2. When trimming the apron blocks, be sure to use a very sharp blade and very small slivers, as I chucked a couple

I popped the first frame out of it's sprues (and yes I think USPS played football with my box, as most everything was detached).  I'm going to look like Popeye after sanding all the char off these frames.

 

I need to probably tackle putting the build board together before I get to far ahead of myself.


Shawn

20240507_154239.jpg

Edited by sfotinos

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