Rattlesnake by JPett - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64th - Kit #MS2028

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Mario: So happy to see you back and building. I am looking forward to the “when” in your reply.

 

Martin: Glad to see you back in the mix. I looked into that deck. You were right.

 

Aldo: Thanks for coming aboard. Sometimes it feels like 10 miles. LOL

 

Dida: No just “home made”. I cut dowels, color them with a sharpie depending on how long the point is going to be. Then I use CA glue to secure the pins in them, filing the pin where it goes into a predrilled hole so the CA gets a good bite. Next, I paint them with thin CA glue so the sharpie does not bleed onto my work and the PVA glue I use does not stick to them.

 

 

Back to the build;

 

I cheated and used shims to correct for the previous problem where my “spiling attempt met the last of my brute force and superstition attempts.

 

I am posting my current procedure and some pics of my Spiling for review

 

First, I use a compass to transfer the curve of the last plank to a piece of paper pinned to the hull. Then I find the curve on my French curves. Next, I start with a very wide piece of wood so that once I have my curve I can cut a more planks, one right after the other. This helps me to speed up the “redos” and one day with the next plank.

 

Using a very hard pencil (4H) I trace out the cut as this creates a groove in the wood, which I find helpful. It also confirms I am on the tick marks I have measured for the plank width. I also use the edge of the French curve to guide my knife. I cut the plank much wider then required, soak it, and then form it to the hull “wide”. The wider plank makes it easier to make corrections. I can sand them to shape verses edge bending them to fix any errors in my curve. These errors coming from me trying to transcribe tick marks to a flat piece of paper on the curved hull. The hardest part.

 

Your comments are appreciated and welcome

Edited March 2, 2013 by JPett

[patrickmil]

It's too bad you can't find french curves in a very thin and flexible plastic, huh? It'd be that much easier to find the right curve by just laying the french curve over the existing planking, marking it in pencil on the curve and then using that to draw out the curve to the wood. Maybe it's time to invent one. I think some thin plastic placemats may be the material for the job. 

[Chuck]

That planking looks excellent.  Very nice work.  The planks fit very tight against the last strake on the hull.   Should look really good when finished. 

 

Chuck

[Trussben]

Aha! The fight against spiling has finally ended!!

 

I know you will be much happier with your planking results by learning this important technique, we all have to at some point if we are to get better.

 

Ben

[sport29652]

_{Love your log and I hope I can duplicate some of your efforts. I have a question; after going through your log you mention several things you would have done differently. It seems I have many issues with my bulkheads width and with them lining up flush with the keel. They line up nicely with the refrence line and cooincidently with the rabbit (all but two line up with the rabbit). I'm hoping that you can give me a little direction and learn from your experences. would you A:  lower the bulkheads to line up with the keel, or B: leave the bulkhead lined up with the refrence line and shim where needed?}  

[SketchupModeller]

I don't think it would be that hard to make this yourself.  Trace a french curve template onto a suitable piece of plastic, cut it out, and get back to shipbuilding.

 

It's too bad you can't find french curves in a very thin and flexible plastic, huh? It'd be that much easier to find the right curve by just laying the french curve over the existing planking, marking it in pencil on the curve and then using that to draw out the curve to the wood. Maybe it's time to invent one. I think some thin plastic placemats may be the material for the job. 

[JPett]

Ahoy MSW

 

Patrick: I want them in steel to use as a guide for my knife. I have already cut into the plastic.

 

Chuck: Welcome aboard, my build has only reached this point because of the hard work and effort you and others have put in to make this site a reality. Thank you

 

Ben: I have to agree, in the beginning I was so intimidated by just planking it took some serious arm-twisting (or should that be plank twisting) for me to make this leap. In the end, it was not as hard as I thought.

 

Sport29652: Thanks for the compliment and stopping by. I had the same problem. It seems to be common issue with kits.

First; double-triple check your work. I would use the reference lines and shim or sand the bulkheads as necessary. The bulkheads are on the plans, use these to make templates to check your work. Also; the supplied basswood planking makes a great shim. Soak it for about 15 minutes in hot water and then pin it to the bulkhead. Once dry, glue it on, and sand to shape. There is a pic in my post #3. The batten test that follows is very important; every plank needs to make full contact with every bulkhead along the full length of the hull. The best advice I could ever give you is to start a build log here @ MSW.

         

SketchupModeller: “Get back to shipbuilding”  Did Augie put you up to this???

Edited March 11, 2013 by JPett

[augie]

Welcome back JP!  I thought you went on a lecture tour entitled 'Spiling for Model Shipwrights'.

[ZevEisenberg]

To paint the Britannia, I first primed and then using Brass enamel, I painted the whole piece. The blue followed in Acrylic again painting the entire piece. Next, I used Acrylic thinner to expose and clean up the Brass.

 

I really like the technique you used here, and would like to attempt it. What kind of paint did you use? Would this be appropriate? And when you say you used blue - did you just paint the whole thing in blue acrylic, and then clean it off with acrylic thinner? Did you coat it with something else to protect the paint?

[JPett]

Ahoy  Zev 

 

I used Testors but it shouldn't matter. I have done this before with different brands. The base just needs to be enamel and the top has to be water based. Yes you paint the whole thing in both colors and wipe one off the raised surfaces.

 

EDIT: Just found your link. NO. Glad you brought this up. NO FLATS. must be a semi or gloss (gloss is best) The flat acts like primer and will grip the top coat. If you want a flat finish use a flat clear coat after you are done. If your color is not available in gloss you must do another coat of clear gloss enamel before your second color.

 

Two things

 

1) Most importantly "Test first"

 

2) Let the primer and the base color each dry for no less then 24 hours. The longer the better. This is VERY important. They must be fully cured. The top color you are removing should not be allowed to cure. Wipe it off after about an hour.

 

Well maybe three

 

If the acrylic thinner isn't doing it, you can use a tiny amount of enamel thinner on a  Q-tip, just be gentle. If the base coats are fully cured, it won't affect it right away.

 

Mine is not done. When I finish planking I will do another flood coat with the blue, thinned (a lot), a little black mixed in to make a dark "lowlight", it will fill the cracks and make the blue "pop". Another wipe on the brass if needed, then a light dry brush with a lightened brass. Then the clear coat. This will give it lots of depth so it plays well with the wood tones. (I hope)

 

Google plastic modeling tips. There are some videos on this process.

Edited March 12, 2013 by JPett

[src]

Jp,

I think I understand what you are doing with the paint, any possibilities of some step by step pictures?

Sam

[JPett]

Ahoy Sam

 

Sorry no pic, I will see what I can do about this later on. This process takes a few days to do right.

 

For now

 

1) Clean up the part, (sand, file, patch)  Britannia can be pretty bad sometimes. I use thick CA to fill holes and for repairs. You can build up layers using the CA and accelerators to fix some really ugly stuff.

 

2) Clean the part. I use dishwashing soap and a toothbrush. Needs to be nice and clean. Let dry

 

3) Prime. Then let dry for one day. Check it and make sure it looks acceptable. Fix any problems and repeat step three or if its good, go to step four.

 

4) Paint the whole thing with gloss enamel. Remember, this will be the color you want to expose. Let dry for one to two days (2 is best). For the best results thin the paint and do two or three coats. Must dry one day between each coat. I cannot over state how important it is for this coat to be fully dry or cured.

 

5) Paint the whole thing with any color (flat or gloss) water based paint (acrylic)

 

6) Once dry use Q-tips lightly moistened with Acrylic thinner and gently wipe the area where you want to expose the base color. Use as little thinner as possible. It should not run off the Q-tip. As soon as the thinner activates the paint and it starts to come off on the Q-tip; switch to a new gently moistened Q-tip. If the process gets out of hand switch to water. If it is too slow, you can use enamel thinner (but be very careful, as this will activate the base coat). Just remember it happens slowly. The thinner will reactivate the paint on top and you will wipe it off exposing the color underneath it.

 

Remember. Practice first; it is still a technique, but it is an easy one. A good thing about Britannia: If you completely screw up the paint, use thinner and strip it back down to the metal, and start over.

 

[RiverRat]

Hi JPett. I've enjoyed looking through your build! It's good you're keeping your cheerfulness in getting through your ouches.

 

I thought I'd collected most of the descriptions-of-Rattlesnake stuff and saw this in post #9:

"The Rattlesnake had an enlarged transom and dummy window to confuse enemy ships as to her true size."

 

Where might this be from?

 

Regards,

Brian

[JPett]

Ahoy RiverRat

 

Thank you the compliment on my log and pointing out this error in the rebuild of it. The original post read “It seems the Rattlesnake may have had an enlarged transom to deceive enemy ships as to her size, Hummm, this never happens in warfare”. Somehow, in the rush to rebuild my log after the crash I misquoted myself. The statement was purely conjecture, loosely based on readings regarding privateers of this period and the MSW Rattlesnake’s transom being “oversized”. Thanks for pointing this out. I have “edited” and corrected post #9

[augie]

Although it may have been conjecture, I've read the same statement regarding the illusion of transom size for other smallish ships of the era.  I have no idea if it worked but sometimes perception IS reality.

[mtaylor]

The concept of "fooling the enemy" worked.  HMS Roebuck was a two deck 44 gun frigate.  In the stern, there were two rows of windows.  The lower went to the great cabin.  The upper rows center was the poop decks beams.  They were dummies.  The ruse worked as she captured the Confederacy and a couple of other ships this way as they mistook her for a larger ship.

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

 

Augie: Always nice to see you aboard.

 

 

Mark: Very interesting Thank you

 

 

 

I find it hard to believe in a time where there was no internet, cell phones, or 24 hour news that they could ever get away with this tom foolery. LOL

 

 

 

My question is, does anyone know of any information documenting this was the case for the Rattlesnake’s transom.

 

 

 

[augie]

What is a 'cell phone' ----- oh, I digress.

 

Thanks for the info Mark.  I know it's a little far fetched but, when I first mounted the faux quarter galleries on my Syren and imagined myself a mile away looking at her across the water I was impressed at the difference they made.

[src]

Jp,

Thanks for the painting schedule it is making more sense now, for some reason I was confusing that technique with your deck staining pictures in the painting and finishing forum. Was wondering what you were using blue for! Silly me. regardless I am (im)patiently standing by for your pictures. no rush

Sam

[src]

Ok, I waited ten seconds and there are still no pictures. what gives.....?

[MD11pilot]

I love this log!  I think I'm learning more from your amusing tales of woe (and subsequent corrections) than from the conventional, "next I installed the planking" type of log entries.  I've just started my first kit and your detailed description of the trials and tribulations of planking are sure to help me when I get to that stage.

 

Eric O.

[Cap'n Rat Fink]

She is coming along nicely JP. Since I have turned myself into a lurker for a little while its good to sit back and read some of these logs a little slower.

[Martin W]

Hi JPett -- your conjecture about the transom is very interesting.  I've wondered about why it should be so oversized, especially enemy fire would surely damage it.

 

Your build is looking great -- an inspiration to us all!

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[ZevEisenberg]

It would make sense if you were being chased on the open ocean, since your pursuer would see your stern cross section through a telescope. It could be enough to fool them into thinking you were a bigger ship, just like a cat arching its back to look bigger.

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Augie: No Cell, I call that a blessing. A mile huh, another blessing “LOL”  

 

SRC: NP Could be a while for those pics. I see my Pandora has a hunk of Britannia for an ars end but that might be a year or two away. I will see if 

I can find something else and do another post in the Painting, Staining, and Bleaching forum.

 

MD11pilot:  I am only following the trail blazed on MSW V1, which was very helpful to me. Your compliment did make me feel good about the effort, thank you.

 

Mario: Lurk away, your always welcome here.

 

Martin: When I first mounted it, I was dumbfounded. It looked like my Ratt was wearing a mouse hat. In all fairness to Model Shipways, I had over sanded her a little back there for some jeans and this did accentuate the problem. After seeing how Mamoli and Hahn handled this, I opted for a change. This led me to the research I found on the high seas trickery, then some hot water, and a vise. Oh yes and let us not forget another 30 or so hours. I still have still have the window frames which I have been putting off.

 

Zev: I would not be surprised to find this transom trick on a very long list

 

Build Update:

 

With company on its way the shipyard has been converted (or is being) to a temporary shelter (bedroom) and hopefully will be restored in the next two weeks. Until then I have a gift that needs to be finished. I look at her every day

[augie]

We all know the drill ,JP.  We'll be patient!

[src]

I understand completely JP. My work room is also the spare bedroom and gets converted 3-4 times a year. I keep telling my GF she needs to get a better job so I can retire and she can buy me a bigger house where I have my own workroom. Last time I said that she picked up the chef knife I had just sharpened and said she was going to show me a better job. Being "from Mars" I dont translate Venetian well, do you think that means I will be getting me my room soon? I hope so......

Take your time, finish your gift and enjoy your guests, I wont even check in on you ten seconds from now this time. I will wait at least 15.

sam

Edited March 16, 2013 by src

[cog]

JP,

 

Still going steadilly I see. Looks good.

 

 

Sam, Never knew 'what women want'. Still don't ...

[Dida]

... I use thick CA to fill holes and for repairs. ...

Hi, Pett!

What is CA? I live in the area where this acronym is not used.

Thank you.

[russ]

Dida:

It stands for cyano acrylate glue, commonly referred to as super glue. There are different viscosities, thick, medium, and thin. They are sold under many different name brands. Hobby and crafts shops carry it.

 

Russ

Edited March 17, 2013 by russ