HMS Victory by gil middleton - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:72

[dafi]

;-) :-) :-)

 

XXXDAn

[mort stoll]

Welcome  back my friend.

 

Mort

[Patrick Haw]

Welcome back Gil.  Now our Victory tutorial can continue!

 

Patrick

[WackoWolf]

Glad your back Gil.

[Pygothian]

Absolutely amazing log. You are a true artist

[gjdale]

Welcome home Gil. I hope you had a wonderful trip and I look forward, along with many others, to the resumption of your wonderful build.

[fnkershner]

GIL!! PSSM has not be the same without you. Welcome back! I hope you can make it to our next meeting. I am sorry we wont have a pot belly stove or windows and forest. but we will still have wonderful company. Welcome back!

 

PS You could have left me the keys to your boat while you were gone.

[Jim Lad]

The Rhine and Danube sounds nice, Gil.  I don't remember seeing the invitation to join you.

 

John

[Jerry]

Hello Gil..

About 14 years ago, my wife and I cruised the Main, Rhine and Danube on a river cruise.  The boat WAS the Amadeus II.  I say was, because a couple of years later there was massive flooding on these rivers and the Amadeus II actually sunk.  But the wonderful memories of this cruise will always linger.  Nice to have you back and as mentioined before, I sinceely appreciate your fantastic log.  Hope you are having a wonderful weekend.

Regards,

Jerry

[augie]

Welcome home!  Looking forward to more of your fine work.

[gil middleton]

What a warm welcome from so many friends.  I'm currently trying to catch up on the many wonderful build logs (very slowly), responding to several hundred e-mails and all the other stuff that follows time away. It will probably be a while before I accomplish any productive work on the "Victory."

 

Jerry, They had a record flood on the Danube in June, but not while we were there. However, they did manage to run us aground. Didn't sink.

 

Lawrence, It may be a while before I consider a tutorial on serving. However, I could do a much better job indexing page numbers with various stages of building. Ed Tosti puts us all to shame with his superb organization and clear photos.  I'll try to learn how to index with links. Cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

Lawrence,  Sorry if I mislead you.  I was referring to Ed Tosti's Victory build site in which he has indexed various stages in the build, including serving etc. Cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

Lawrence, After reviewing my log, I have to thanks you for the heads up. While there has been a lot of serving on shrouds, mast heads, etc., there is no clear method of serving shown. I'll try to show my way of doing it in a separate post.

 

Further, on page one, my good intentions of indexing (or showing content) was never carried out. I've gone back and added page numbers for various stages of the build. Perhaps when I become a bit more computer savy, I'll add automatic page links to the various stages.

 

You've pointed out the obvious. What is often clear to the writer is not always clear to the reader.

Many thanks, Gil

[Sjors]

Hi Gil,

 

A little late but from me also welcome back !

I hope to see soon some progress 

 

[mtaylor]

Good to see you have returned, Gil.   Sounds like you had a great time.

[Modelman]

Welcome back Gil!

 

I wish to thank you for the great pictures concentrated on the standing rigging and so on! The original plans are great, but still your pictures gave a great deal of help to me with my own model. And what about the running rigging? Likewise! And still I'm not at the level you are, honestly.

 

Thank you so much and all the best for you and your family and friends!

Edited November 8, 2013 by Modelman

[gil middleton]

Lawrence, What trouble.  What can a couple of old guys do that would be more fun.

Sjors and Mark. Nice to be back.  I'm actually starting on topgallant yards.

Thank you Modelman.  On our way home, we had a very short stay in Helsinki. Nice to have a friend in Finland.

Cheers, Gil

[gjdale]

Hi Gil,

 

I found myself going back over your log for ideas and techniques regarding fitting out the yards. I've been distracted by building boats and making blocks for so long, I'd forgotten what I was doing! It was great to have your log as a handy reference. Thanks for the detailed explanations and photos - they have been a big help.

Edited November 9, 2013 by gjdale

[Patrick Haw]

Hi Gil,

 

I'm starting to make my upper gun deck guns and have a question.  What size thread did you use for rigging the side tackles and for the recoil ropes?

 

Thanks

 

Patrick

[gil middleton]

Hi Patrick,  I used 1.0 mm thread for the recoil or breech lines. I think they could have been slightly larger but the 1.0 mm thread was the largest available short of the anchor line. I had some thread stock that was larger but the color didn't match.  For the blocks and tackle, I used 0.25 mm line which would equate to about 18 mm or between 5/8" and 3/4" line on the real ship.  That seems about right for the working tackle but that's just my opinion.  Cheers, Gil

[Jerry]

Hello Gil..

 

I hope all is well and that you can help me out with this question.  There are two parts that the manual calls to be attached to the middle channel, the main channel.  These two parts are the "studding sail boom, part #684 and "support" part #685.  From all the pics I find in your log I don't see these parts placed.  Is there a reason you left them off the channel?  I notice also that Dave (Shipyard Sid and Kevin don't have them in place either.  Can you please help me with this?  These parts are called out on page 40 near the end of the Channels paragraph.  Thanks so much.

Jerry

[gil middleton]

Hi Jerry,  The studding sail boom is not forgotten, although you are very observant.  There are a number of details that have not yet been added including the name on the stern, chalks for the anchors, pike poles on the masts, aft lanterns, etc.  Some for fear they would be knocked off (lanterns), others because they might interfere with rigging (anchors) and others for no reason at all; simply to be done later.  Hopefully, I'll catch up on details in the coming year.  I suspect David and Kevin might have similar reasoning.  Cheers, Gil

[Jerry]

Hello again Gil,

 

Thanks for your quick reply. I did find a photo of the parts in question on the Jotika construction site.  here's a link in case you may be interested.

http://www.jotika-ltd.com/KitPics/LRG/Victory_Const104_lrg.jpg

 

Many thanks again for your help,

 

Jerry

[gil middleton]

Finally, getting back to actually doing something on the model. A bit of progress on the topgallant yards and mizzen yards.

 

These yards were too thin to use power tools such as a lathe. At least in my experience, the thin part just twisted and deformed. At 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm, hand sanding seemed the best way.

 

 

A couple of our members asked for help on using styrene to make simulated "iron bands" on yards, masts, etc. The problem seemed to be that the styrene would not hold when glued. The following is simply my experience on what has worked well for me.

 

Pick a size of styrene strip that seems in scale and wrap it around a smaller diameter than needed. I seems to soften the strip and prevent breaking when it's been glued.

 

 

Glue one end to the yard using gap-filling (5 to 15 sec.) C/A. Fast C/A absorbs into the wood and doesn't hold. If the glue has been around for a time(like my 5 month hiatus), it tends to get thicker and slower. If it takes more than 10 to 15 seconds to set, start with fresh glue.

 

 

The end is glued. Let it set for several minutes. Note: the battens are styrene strip forming the octagon.

 

 

Add glue to the strip and hold until the glue sets.

 

 

Cut off excess to complete the ring.

 

 

Ad glue to the end of the band and hold in place with the tip of a blade.

 

[gil middleton]

Crossjack Yard, Mizzen topmast yard and three topgallant yards.

 

 

The end of the Main topgallant yard with line stoppers or chalks, and "iron ring" around end of yard.

 

Sling cleats.  Crossjack yard (completed) and Mizzen topmast yard (not yet shaped)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gil middleton]

Another question that came on e-mail was the problem of gluing very small parts with out getting glue on instruments and fingers. Typically the part ends up glued to the forceps, thumb or whatever.   An example are the line stoppers or chalks at the end of the yard.

 

 

An alternative is to leave a tab for holding or glue a larger piece, let the glue cure overnight and then trim or sand to the proper shape.

 

 

Topgallant yard and Crossjack yard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Nice to see some actual progress, Gil!

 

John

[Kevin]

thanks for that gil

 

another way i have found for the banding, is to use a preformed styrene tube, cut to the width required, and then if to large in diameter, take a little out, like down sizing a wedding ring

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the tutorials, Gil.  Good to see that you're back in the shipyard.

[dafi]

THank you for sharing the know how!

 

XXXDAn