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Posted

Lovely appearance! I love those Veritas chisels.

JD

 

Current build: Schooner Mary Day (scratch)

 

Previous builds:  Model Shipways Pride of Baltimore 2, Amati HMS Endeavour, Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Bluejacket America, Midwest Sharpie Schooner

 

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I obviously missed some posts here due to my habit of sailing in the summer.

What a nice looking platform Mike!

And since it's new years eve I take the opportunity to wish you a prosperous 2025 with lots of hours at your workbench!

 

Keep it up!

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

Posted

Thanks Håkan, truly appreciated :) 

Yes, spending more time on the hobby is my new year resolution, even sneaked a couple of hours recently! 

Best wishes to you and a lot of joyful days in your workshop!

Posted

Mike,

Yikes --- just catching up - 🙂 your work is so good!

 

Cheers,

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Time for some side projects :) 

 

Fist I was concerned about the side-to-side alignment inside the hull.

The height measurement gauge is asymmetrical, and flipping it around may introduce some measurement errors. So I wanted to make a pointy thing that can be moved side-by-side on the top gantry. 

There was a question in another log - "what is the mill for" - here is a classic example of a simple part that should be square with a precise and square-profiled recess. Mill is much more consistent and requires less skill than a "well tuned table saw", for example.

Foto2025-01-26113251.thumb.jpeg.41df6729e9fd5443bd69fe53ea8af6ca.jpeg

For the "pointy bit" I needed something very soft to avoid scratching the part. Basswood from the Model Shipways kit was ideal - I use it a lot as a soft lining for clamps and jigs. 

I wanted to practice milling it in a rotary table instead of using lathe or a rotary tool. Not the best idea, the finish was not smooth at all (though such a soft wood is not making the task easier)

Foto2025-01-04153839.thumb.jpeg.0541927283b6decbb38ea0e631caaf82.jpeg

The resulting gadget. When in action - only one clamp is holding the arm in the correct position, while the assembly slides side to side. Should work even with curved beams, by probing the ends of the beam.

Foto2025-01-26124131.thumb.jpeg.f857cf61faf62da3c289fecf03adfc16.jpeg

In action:

Foto2025-01-26134357.thumb.jpeg.d9dc34b61d82049650e21ecdb9d20dd2.jpeg

Posted

Next up was the problem of wood stock preparation.

Majority of the interior construction is made out of relatively small lumber, 2-4mm in 1:48 scale.  I could never cut those perfectly on a table saw, they always need a lot of finessing later on, resulting in an uneven strip. The wood sheets I have are 1 or 2 or 3mm thick, so more sanding is needed if you need something in between. The strip preparation was taking too much efforts.

A thickness sander would be ideal, but the only one in a small scale is Byrnes, which is rather a collector item nowadays.

DYI options are not appealing either, and they are still noisy and dusty.

Another alternative is a thickness planing jig. Most of them are too complicated for my task - with knobs and adjustments leading to inaccuracies, so I decided to use spacers. The range of required thicknesses is rather narrow - on of the largest parts (gun deck beam) is just around 4mm thick. 

 

Decided to build the jig out of scrap piece of walnut. Did not want to risk using plywood, the grooves might end up on a wrong layer, resulting in an uneven surface. They are tiny, but need to be smooth. 

 

Cutting precise grooves on a table saw is not so easy, but slow and steady does the job :)

Foto2025-01-19130754.thumb.jpeg.8f59f9a90c8d886b5dd6814b1a982e5b.jpeg

Router plane helps to clean up the bottom of the groove:

Foto2025-01-19130012.thumb.jpeg.c5c57d6a2a007eb539c4f11ede76c297.jpeg

Resulting jig, custom made for the miniature Veritas bench plane:

Foto2025-01-26133520.thumb.jpeg.0215ae210aed22a7b8cb7153a13b895c.jpeg

Spacers are made out of styrene, very good material for that. Easy to get in a variety of thicknesses, affordable, does not warp with moisture, fairly hard (to avoid compressing too much when planing). I have cut a bunch of spacers with a smallest increment of 0.25mm, should be enough for the range of thicknesses I need.

Foto2025-01-26131734.thumb.jpeg.79bd216ffb288d24ae9fc9d66a6e43f2.jpeg

Jig in action:

Foto2025-01-26133359.thumb.jpeg.274dea1aed4de739e1c262433493a95b.jpeg

Quite happy with it! Simple jig, but very effective. And perfectly quiet :) 

The finish is incredibly smooth out of the box, so I can use the part right away with no further surface cleanup or sanding. If necessary - should not be hard to add a sanding block for the same jig. 

I could easily get down to 1mm thickness, anything lower - and it is better to hold the "tail" of the strip rather than push it into the stop, otherwise it might get wavy.

 

Posted

Do you stack the spacers to get the variety of thickness in 0.25mm increments?

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Posted

Yes, I need to stack different thicknesses, of course trying to reduce the number of spacers (using one 2mm instead of two 1mm, etc). It's a bit similar to the dado stack on a table saw :) 

Since the depth of the groove is around 4.5mm - you do not need that many spacers to tune to the proper thickness

 

Posted

Lovely, opposite ends of the spectrum. On one side, the mill with lathe setup and on the other a "simple" shooting board. Excellent!

 

Can't wait to see more progress 😉

 

Keep it up!

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

Posted
Posted

Very impressive! I may have to duplicate your jig.

JD

 

Current build: Schooner Mary Day (scratch)

 

Previous builds:  Model Shipways Pride of Baltimore 2, Amati HMS Endeavour, Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Bluejacket America, Midwest Sharpie Schooner

 

 

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