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Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW


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Gunther a new one but of course.... lol

Every once in a while I am on Jims page and putting an order together.

Related question, which accessories should be the first essentials?

Edited by Nirvana

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
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Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Howie didn't specify new or used.   :)

 

Howie - to answer your initial question re: Shipping.  Go to the Byrnes website, select the item you want to buy (saw, any accessories, etc.) and click on the "Order" button.  This will take you to a page where you can enter your location and calculate shipping.

 

If that doesn't work for your location, they have a contact section where you can contact them and inquire about shipping, I'm sure they'd be happy to assist you.

Edited by GuntherMT
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Howie didn't specify new or used. :)

I think Howie are refering to a used one.

And so am I. ;)

Edited by Nirvana

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I think Howie are refering to a used one.

And so am I. ;)

 

I make my living as a Quality Assurance Specialist.  Never assume something that isn't specified is probably tattooed on my brain somewhere.  :)

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With regards to the safety of using a 10" standard table saw previously asked in this thread. A full sized table saw is safe when used in the appropriate manner for the appropriate task. Some "rules" to follow:

 

- always use the anti-kickback pawl and splitter

- never stand behind the blade and fence

- use the right blade for the task at hand, rip, crosscut, plywood

- never cross cut freehand, always x-cut using the miter gauge with or without an extension piece and move the table saw fence out of the way

- always get a tail person or build an out-feed table when cutting long sheets

- never, never, never have a conversation while operating any power saw

 

Regards

 

PS I have a Jim Byrnes saw for 10 years. By milling my own lumber from stock (to include logs), this machine has paid for itself many times over; as has Jim's thickness planer.

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Gunther a new one but of course.... lol

Every once in a while I am on Jims page and putting an order together.

Related question, which accessories should be the first essentials?

I have all the accessories. The most important by far are the spare blades.

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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I have all the accessories. The most important by far are the spare blades.

Keith, that didn't helped me at all.... :P

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I just ordered one of Jim's saws a couple of weeks ago and it will be at my house on Monday. I can't wait to be able to mill my own stock. I ordered everything but the tilting table. Also got some spare blades, an extra belt and a zero clearance insert. Did I need it? No, but for a lifetime hobby it's a good investment for me. I hope to order the thickness sander in a few weeks.

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

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I want one of Jim's rope walks to complete  my Byrnes' ensemble. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

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I got my new saw this morning and it's a thing of beauty. Now I have to learn to use it. I tried to cut the keel sections for the Triton Cross Section project out of boxwood but I'm having problems. The cuts are uneven and pretty rough. I can't seem to get a nice straight cut. I did a little better with cherry. When I cut boxwood with my little Microlux saw the cuts are as smooth as glass and even. What am I doing wrong?

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

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Al,

 

Are you using the right blade?   Can you post a picture?

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Mark, I'm using the 24 tooth carbide blade that came with the saw. I bought a couple of different blades with the saw. I also got a 90 tooth slitting blade. Should I try that one?

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

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Shihawk,

 

Harbor Freight has a 4" table saw for $ 37.00. I know the purists will scoff at the saw but its cheap enough to play with and you can upgrade later.

 

I bought a 2 inch cuttoff saw for $ 29.00 and it worked just fine for, nice clean cuts. At the time some said it wasn't precise enough.

 

Go cheap, upgrade later. 

 

John

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Al

 

The 24 tooth carbide is for roughing down thick stock.  Use one of the slitting blades on the thin boxwood

 

Jim

Jim,

 

Thank you for taking the time to answer my question personally. I only have the one slitting blade I ordered with the saw and will be ordering a couple more. Can you make any recommendations? Again, the saw is fantastic. If anybody is on the fence about getting one of these tools just know you are getting super quality and great customer service.

 

Al

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

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Al,

 

Have a look here:  http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php   Jeff has guidlines for teeth count for different thicknesses of wood.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I have used the Byrnes Saw for many years.  I use the 90 tooth slitting blade almost exclusively.  It gives a nice smooth cut for planking and fine cuts.  I will occasionally use the 24 tooth for larger stock.

 

I get my blades from Thurston Saw Blades out of Rhode Island (as recommended by Jim).  Primarily the .030 thickness bit occasionally .040 or .020.

 

http://thurstonmfg.com/

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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Al

 

I have 2 saws set up in my model shop and use the .03 slitting blade for most everything, probably 95% of the time.  The other saw is set up with the 36 tooth carbide that I use occasionally and rarely use the 24 tooth carbide at all. Only use the .02 slitting blade when cutting very thin stock like 1/16 or less or if you need it to make gratings but don't use it for general cutting.  The .04 slitting blade can be used as a general purpose blade but it will obviously waste more stock and I have not found it to be any better than the .03.  Good quality blades can be bought form me, Thurston, Martindale and Malco.  Stay away from the imports if you can.  Thurston and Martindale are probably the cheapest.  I only sell the Thurston blades but you probably can get them cheaper from them.  I have to buy about 400 blades at a time to get a small discount then they sit on the shelf for a year or so 

 

regards

Jim 

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The quick answer to this question is, sure you can live without one of our saws. People have been building models for hundreds of years with just hand tools.  The reason why I built this saw?  Time and accuracy.  18 years ago I was working on a kit model from one of the Euro kit suppliers. The wood supplied with the kit was awful, not even good enough to burn.  This was long before quality wood and milled stock was available from Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill and Jason at Crown.  At first I bought 1/8 x 1/16 milled boxwood strips from one of the suppliers and they were all over the place.  They measured from .110 to .140 on the width.  When I called the supplier I was told that was within his cut tollerance.  Well I was used to working to slightly tighter tolerances so I didn't use the wood. I looked into buying a hobby size saw so I could cut my own and the only consideration was the Preac.  The Preac at $375.00 for the large table version looked good but didn't have the capability to cut thicker stock to more manageable sizes.   Having access to the machine shop which by day made parts for targeting lasers for the military I figured I'd build a better mouse trap.  Took me about a year between learning Autocad and designing it and I tossed a lot more parts into the scrap bin that I would like to admit but in the end I was happy with it and it's pretty much the same saw that is available today.  Now I could cut wood strips and hold + or - .001 all day long with a really good finish.  

 

So, has it made me a better modeler?  Maybe, maybe not.  I guess it all depends on how you look at it.  I don't have to worry about the size and quality of my milled stock.  I can sit in front of the saw and rip off 1/8 inch strips all day long and hold a very tight tolerance without much effort.  I can get a finish that sanding would only make worse so it gives me more time to concentrate on the things that scare me like carving.  

 

Am I quicker, you bet.  Do my planking jobs look better, sure do.  Could I have done it without the saw, sure.  Would have taken me considerable longer though and for me, modeling time is precious.   

 

My 2 cents worth

 

Jim Byrnes

Model Machines

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Jim

Thank you for your input.

I think the bottom line from many of us is digging into the check and credit book for the investment and knowing what you are getting.

I am fortunate and was able to buy a barely used thickness sander of yours from a friend.

I know the quality behind. And I won't go with anything else but your table saw, when I have the money.

How much I will use it?

I don't know!

Can I justify the investment?

Very likely.

So, here is my thoughts.

When the day comes for me to stop modelling (which will never happen, unless an accident prevents me), and I have several of Byrnes Machines, there will be a higher value than any other machines out there.

No wonder it is so hard to find a used Byrnes table saw.

 

My last cents, now I have to start saving them for a Byrnes table saw.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Dr.

 

Yeah, they don't come up used very often.  Every once in a while I see one on ebay but they always sell for close to retail price so they do hold there value.  I keep a running list for used machines but have only had 2 to sell in the last 6 or 7 years.  Granted they are expensive but they are also not cheap to build. They are fully machined on CNC equipment and when you compare them to what is on the market I think they are a pretty good deal.  No castings, no plastic no junk.  All the parts are made in my shop, by me with the exception of the belt guards.  They are made by a local sheet metal shop.  I do all the assembly and square them up with dial indicators.  We have no employees, except me, I work for Donna.  She lets me come home when I have finished my quota for the day. The CNC's are also not cheap to maintain either.  Right now my oldest cnc mill is down.  I'm looking at a new 15HP motor and inverter.  Between buying the parts and having my maintenance guy install them the bill is going to be around 7 grand. That's a lot of saws. And occasionally Donna writes me a paycheck too.

 

Jim 

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Jim,

 

After meeting you and Donna at a couple of shows, you should be writing her the checks!!!!!!!

 

 

Edited by Landlocked123

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Model Ship World

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So turns out my big machine repair bill is only going to be e few hundred bucks. My electronics guy checked out my inverter and it checked ok so he brought it back to the shop and my maintenance guy reinstalled it but still nothing worked.  He rechecked the motor and that was also still checking bad so after scratching his head a bit he went around to the side cabinet and checked the spindle control board and it was loose.  Pushed it back in and everything worked just  fine.  Re checked the motor and inverter both checked good so its back up and making parts.  After I razzed the maintenance guy for misdiagnosing the problem he handed me a little bill instead of the huge one I was expecting.  Good that I have honest people around I can count on because you are at their mercy when it comes to this stuff.  For me anyway not being an electronics guy

 

Jim   

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That's great news Jim. At least now Donna want need to put you on half-pay to cover the costs!

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Jim, that wss good a good call. Electronical problems are worse than mechanical. Glad to hear you are back up running the machines.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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No wonder it is so hard to find a used Byrnes table saw.

 

I waited for months to see if I could get my hands on a used Byrnes table saw, and had no luck.  I ended up buying them new from Jim, and haven't ever regretted the decision.  Too many things these days have more complicated and unnecessary configures with multiple parts that just raise the chances of the thing breaking down - Jim's tools on the other hand are built like tanks, and use a very simple yet effective design.  

 

I don't get as much modeling time in with work, kids, beer, etc., but I would rather spend the money on good tools that will last a lifetime than buy tools for slightly less that don't have the same quality both in terms of precision and expected lifetime that will end up getting replaced down the road.

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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