Constitution by Geoff Matson - Model Shipways 2040 - 1/76 scale

[Geoff Matson]

Lots of the same stuff. I finished the Main Mast Yards. Not much different from the fore Mast Yards.

 

 

 

I have everything on the yards that I want prior to hanging them on the mast. Now onto the Mizzen Mast

[Tigersteve]

Beautiful work all around. 

Steve

[S.Coleman]

They all look like a model kit in their own. They are all looking great. We'll done.

[Techsan]

Simply beautiful work...

[xken]

Geoff, Not sure if you are going to rig your studding booms on the yards; but if so you will want to add the eyebolts at the inboard ends to receive the 3mm hooks. See my build page 23 if interested.

[Geoff Matson]

Thanks for checking my build log and for the tip Ken. I am following your build and still marvel at the details you apply at such a small scale. 

[Gahm]

Wonderful work! Well done!

 

Thomas

[SawdustDave]

Hi Geoff....  I'm still a long way from the rigging stage, but feel like it's time for me to begin doing some advanced research in the area.  So glad I found your log as an amazing resource.  After spending the last hour browsing here, I realize it may be time for me to invest in a good rope walk after building a dozen models without the use of one.  Never too old to learn, huh?
Amazing work mate!

Thanks

 

Dave

[Cpt Jack Sparrow]

Beautiful work Geoff, plan on starting mine soon.  Probably borrow a few of your ideas along with some others...

[Geoff Matson]

Thanks for your interest Capt. Jack. I just finished a major milestone. I have all my pre-rigging for the running rigging done. Now to begin the standing rigging. That means I have to get off the fence and install the masts and begin rigging the shrouds. I feel like I will be tying knots for the rest of my life. I plan on stepping the masts, like they would do in real practice. I will start with the foremast and then work my way aft. My biggest fear is overlooking something and then having to drill a hole to attach something in an unreachable spot. I look forward to you starting your build log. There are a lot of great build logs on the sight if you have any questions. 

[Cpt Jack Sparrow]

Indeed a major milestone Geoff.  I like the idea of stepping the masts, that's how it's done on a real ship.  That's how I'm doing The Black Pearl.  The kit instructions are terrible so I'm doing my best to rig it using references found on here along with several books I've purchased.  Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Peterson has been a great help!

Edited December 12, 2017 by Cpt Jack Sparrow

[Geoff Matson]

I have a lot of reference books, but Peterson's is the one that I really like. You can see where the rigging starts, and finishes.  My wife makes me laugh when she asks, "How much did you pay for that box of sticks and strings?". I also have Bob Hunt's practicum and it really helped me a lot during the construction. However, once he got to the rigging part, I found it lacking. If all you have is the booklet that comes with the book, you are in deep trouble. The greatest part of MSW is all the build logs on the sight. They really are helpful and have got me through many frustrations. 

[David Lester]

Hi Geoff,

Your Constitution is looking great. Your experience with the rigging so far is exactly the same as mine was. I relied on Petersson's book to a large extent and found Bob Hunt really dropped the ball on the rigging stage of his practicum. It misses many points and actually steers you wrong in a couple of places.

 

There is a lot of knot tying on the ratlines, but don't sweat them. You'll get into a rhythm and it will become almost a zen experience and quite enjoyable. The hardest part for me was keeping the outermost shrouds straight and not bowing in. I read somewhere (too late of course) that one technique is to tie every fourth ratline first, then go back and fill in the others. I'm not sure if it works or not, but I'm going to give it a try next time. If your rigging as half as good as your work so far, you'll have a great model.

David

[Geoff Matson]

I finished all my pre-rigging of the running rigging. The masts and yards. Now to get to the serious stuff. The standing rigging. This is where it will start to look like a ship. At least, that is the plan. I am in the process of dry fitting the masts. Now comes the big decision. To glue the masts in place or not. I know there is a lot of discussion about it. I will make that decisions I progress.  I will be stepping the masts like they did in real practice. I will work from bow to stern. The foremast first, then the main, and then the mizzen. I will hold off on the bowsprit until later. I will be doing a lot of dry fitting over the next few days trying to get everything right. 

 

[Geoff Matson]

I started with the foremast and ran into a little problem. My mast did not properly align in the keel just right. Now time for a little dry fitting and tweaking. Add a little wood, sand off a little wood, repeat until it fits right. Problem solved. I know the foremast will have a 3 degree rake to it. The mainmast will have a 3.5 degree rake to it. And the mizzenmast will have a 5 degree rake it. I finally got it where I like the fit. 

 

 

 

. 

Edited December 14, 2017 by Geoff Matson

[Geoff Matson]

I am working on dry fitting my masts and found a useful tool from my I Phone. The level. The level lets me know I am close. Finaladjustments will be made later.

Edited December 14, 2017 by Geoff Matson

[ca.shipwright]

Geoff,

Is it an iX or an i8? How do you get to the level? I would have never thought of this in a hundred years,Thanks for sharing this.

 

Your Connie is coming along great. My is number 3 on the ways.

[capnharv2]

Michael,

 

It's under the compass app. When you get the compass, just slide it over and you will see the level.

 

It's fun to play with.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Harvey

[Geoff Matson]

I have the 8 plus. I really like the phone and most of the model pictures are from the phone. 

Edited December 15, 2017 by Geoff Matson

[Geoff Matson]

I am still getting everything lined up to start my standing rigging. I made a deadeye spacer to help me align the deadeyes. It was made out of some brass rod, soldered together, and then bent to shape. I know the deadeyes are suppose to be three deadeyes apart. There is a lot more planning to do before I actually start the rigging of my shrouds.

 

 

[MEDDO]

Looks good.

[usedtosail]

That is a nice spacer Geoff. Just be careful at the deadeyes towards the rear of the channels as they have a pretty severe angle to the mast, so the spacer may be a little short for those deadeyes.

[Geoff Matson]

Thanks for the tip. This is whats great about MSW. Builders letting you know what to watch out for. I did make up some extra spacers blanks jut in case that happened.

Help me out on my biggest fear. How to attach all the lines to the deck? The area next to the foremast is awfully crowded. I am worried about attaching the stays that run down along side the mast and attach to the deck. I still have a lot of figuring out to do. Any suggestions you have would be appreciated. Thanks.

Edited December 20, 2017 by Geoff Matson

[usedtosail]

Sure Geoff, that's what I love about this site too. I am glad you were already thinking ahead. For the main stays, I didn't have trouble running them along side the fore mast since the pin rails are mostly behind the mast. I used some large eyebolts that I glued into the bulwarks on each side of the bow sprit using medium CA. I didn't have to put much tension on the stays so I don't fear that the eyebolts will pull out, unless of course I inadvertently hit them hard while rigging something else. The plans show a more elaborate fixture at the bows for these stays, but they are hard to see when the stays are in place.

 

Whoops - I think you are asking about the main topmast stays. I also glued eyebolts into the deck at the bottom of the fore and main masts. They also seem to hold well in the deck. Threading the lanyards between the bulls eyes on the stays and the eyebolts was not as hard as I thought it would be.

Edited December 20, 2017 by usedtosail

[Geoff Matson]

Fall is here and I am all ready to bring my Conny out of dry dock and back into production. I have taken time off to get other things done and get my interest back into the labor of love. I am getting ready to set the foremast and begin my rigging process.

 

[usedtosail]

Gald to see you back at it Geoff. Rigging is challenging but a lot of fun too. I'm sure you will do a great job.

[KurtH]

Amazing work!!  I am learning a great deal from reading your build log. This will be a truly excellent model when completed!  I am almost ready to begin making the masts and yards.  The birch dowels provided by Bluejacket are mostly warped. They say all you have to do when your mast is warped is pull it straight with the rigging.  I am not buying that.   It looks like my best bet is to start from square stock as many other model makers do.  I would like to use basswood as it is easy to work, but I do not know how strong it will be when tapered down.  Do you know of other woods that work better?  The masts and spars which have square, round, and octagonal sections intimidate me greatly.  I am trying to figure out how I will do that.  Perhaps planing the square stock to make it all octagonal except for the square section, then sanding the sections which I want to be round using an electric drill and sandpaper will work.  Your amazing work with the rigging is most instructive as well.

[JSGerson]

I think I might be able to help KHauptfuehrer. An excellent build log that shows all of the steps of mast and yard making, among a host of other details is Blue Ensign's Pegasus. In this case, start looking a post #112.

 

As for the wood, if you don't want to buy dowels again, I would definitely NOT use basswood as it a bit too soft and doesn't hold an edge well. Boxwood is my choice. It's a bit harder, very fine grain, can hold an edge, and is still easy to work with.

 

I hope this helps

 

Jon

[Geoff Matson]

KHauptfuehrer,  I used the square wood strips for my masts and spars. I sanded them to to size. I used a metal drill guide to help me get the proper diameter. The metal drill guide acted as a draw plate.  

 

 

Edited November 5, 2018 by Geoff Matson

[Geoff Matson]

I blackened my gammoning chain with Birchwood Casey which can be purchased at any gun store. I cleaned the chain in white  vinegar  and then dipped it in cold water. This chain will be used on the bowsprit. The chain is the 21 links to an inch chain that came with the kit.

Edited November 6, 2018 by Geoff Matson