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Posts posted by James H
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4 minutes ago, CDR_Ret said:
No, this is an entirely different thing.
The site's security certificate has expired and I'm dealing with the host in getting it sorted. It really is nothing to worry about.
- DaveBaxt, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 6 others
- 9
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You can add fewer photos to each post. Just make more posts. That way a single page won't be about 100 miles long and will be far more readable as you and others post to your build log.
- mtaylor, Isaiah, hollowneck and 1 other
- 4
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This one was an issue at the datacenter and not any issue with MSW itself.
There was a problem with the power which supplied many server cabinets at the datacenter and the outage took probably many 1000s if not 100,000's sites offline what depended on that datacenter. We were simply a casualty of that. The engineers there upgraded the power supplies and now we are back.
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Just for note, Pt.2 of my Indy article is now out in the Model Boats mag. Here's the intro pages.
My workroom has also had a serious deep clean too. It really needed it. I've reinstated my beck storage station, and stripped down the photo area where you can now see the Indy hull. New cutting mat and this weekend I'll have a new chair so I can work more comfortably.
Ignore the Spitfire kit. That will be started after Indy is complete and I go on a small hiatus from wood.
- BobG, Dave_E, realworkingsailor and 25 others
- 28
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I just love how this is turning out.
You're at one of my favourite points in this build. 🍿
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4 minutes ago, DB789 said:
She looks fantastic.
Does anyone know a good beginners resource or a log on here on how to copper a ship’s hull? In particular, how do you get the waterline cut straight? I’m very keen to build Grecian, but I need to master coppering.
Many thanks
Dan
The manual for this shows a couple of clear photos. All I did was run a single strip of tape along the keel, up against hull. From there I just added the plates in a brick fashion. That single run of tape can then later be scribed to fit the brick pattern. Add the tape plates above the waterline and then add a feint waterline over the copper. Use a fresh blade and cut along the line before removing the excess from above the waterline. -
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To be bluntly honest, I don't really think most kit builders would really care about stuff like this.
Maybe as 'some' modellers progress down a more serious route, would they contemplate details such as tapering of those areas.
I would think that most kit modellers wouldn't want to progress down that route and are happy to build very respectable finished projects without the sort of things that only a purist would look at.
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5 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:
Looks a great addition to the Vanguard range
I hope you'll try your hand at this one.
- mtaylor, Glenn-UK and thibaultron
- 2
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There will also be an optional American flag. I'll post another picture next week showing the flag mounted to the model.
- mtaylor, thibaultron, markjay and 2 others
- 5
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Here's the front page of the manual. There will be a pre-order open early next week too
At that point, you'll also be able to download and look at the manual.
Options will be available for a period-correct flag and also a limited number of PE copper plate sets instead of the standard copper tape that's supplied.
- Oldsalt1950, JeffT, hollowneck and 13 others
- 16
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Ok folk,
I'll be resurrecting this one in the next week or so. There won't be the usual white backdrop pic as the manual is complete. These will just be workbench photos with my phone, except for the final images. I expect this to be done before the end of July.
- thibaultron, Dave_E, BenD and 10 others
- 13
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A card template is made to aid adding the ratlines. I have drawn lines on these, 6mm apart.
Upper shrouds are now fitted.
And then the rest of the timber is built up. Yards, spars.....whatever you want to call them. I knew at least one guy who thought it was a big deal.
The anchors are 3D printed and have pear stocks with cartridge paper for the iron bands.
- Malcolm Greig, Cathead, markjay and 19 others
- 22
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The final updates.
The last week has seen me build up the mast stuff and rig Grecian. She now sits complete on my bench.
First up is the bowsprit. This is a very simple structure with hardly any tapering of parts.
The assembly now slots to the hull and the gammoning is added.
Grecian doesn't have a spritsail yard, making her look quite sleek. Still lots of cord to rig this area though.
Mast work begins with the crosstrees.
These are then slotted to the shaped lower mast sections, and then fitted out.
The mass are now added and the shroud lines attached. Once complete, they are tied down with even tension via deadeyes/lanyards.
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I admit that I always find those lower mast sections to be a chore!
- mtaylor and aydingocer
- 2
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34 minutes ago, Cowboy said:
I am building my first model, so I'm new to this. I chose OcCre HMS Terror. Tough project for a beginner, but I am a retired cabinet and furniture maker, so I am acquainted with detail. Maybe too much
My question is are the masts supposed to be perpendicular to the deck? Mine turned out to be leaning slightly astern.
I doubt that the masts would be perpendicular to the deck. Sure there should be an astern rake, even if only a few degrees.
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All our problems are solved: post your dodgy solutions
in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
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And cows only have two feet.