James H

I've just performed a server restart. With the power on/off sporadically over the weekend, at least I will now know that all our services will have restarted properly.

I'll be starting my bowsprit sometime this week. I can see from yours that the rake will make it extremley imposing.

You can add fewer photos to each post. Just make more posts. That way a single page won't be about 100 miles long and will be far more readable as you and others post to your build log.

This one was an issue at the datacenter and not any issue with MSW itself. 

There was a problem with the power which supplied many server cabinets at the datacenter and the outage took probably many 1000s if not 100,000's sites offline what depended on that datacenter. We were simply a casualty of that. The engineers there upgraded the power supplies and now we are back. 

Just for note, Pt.2 of my Indy article is now out in the Model Boats mag. Here's the intro pages. 

My workroom has also had a serious deep clean too. It really needed it. I've reinstated my beck storage station, and stripped down the photo area where you can now see the Indy hull. New cutting mat and this weekend I'll have a new chair so I can work more comfortably.

Ignore the Spitfire kit. That will be started after Indy is complete and I go on a small hiatus from wood.

That is just a beautiful work of art 

I just love how this is turning out.

You're at one of my favourite points in this build. 🍿

4 minutes ago, DB789 said:

She looks fantastic. 
 

Does anyone know a good beginners resource or a log on here on how to copper a ship’s hull? In particular, how do you get the waterline cut straight? I’m very keen to build Grecian, but I need to master coppering. 
 

Many thanks 

 

Dan

The manual for this shows a couple of clear photos. All I did was run a single strip of tape along the keel, up against hull. From there I just added the plates in a brick fashion. That single run of tape can then later be scribed to fit the brick pattern. Add the tape plates above the waterline and then add a feint waterline over the copper. Use a fresh blade and cut along the line before removing the excess from above the waterline. 

One last small update as I'm heading off to watch TV with my better half.

Grecian now has her flag. This is sprayed in a mild starch solution, weighted with croc clips until dry, and then small spots of PVA used to tack into final position.

To be bluntly honest, I don't really think most kit builders would really care about stuff like this.

Maybe as 'some' modellers progress down a more serious route, would they contemplate details such as tapering of those areas. 

I would think that most kit modellers wouldn't want to progress down that route and are happy to build very respectable finished projects without the sort of things that only a purist would look at.

Here's a pic I took of the optional flag. This is perfectly screen printed on both sides and has zero bleed.

I'll fit this to Grecian this week.

5 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

Looks a great addition to the Vanguard range

I hope you'll try your hand at this one.

There will also be an optional American flag. I'll post another picture next week showing the flag mounted to the model.

Here's the front page of the manual. There will be a pre-order open early next week too

At that point, you'll also be able to download and look at the manual.

Options will be available for a period-correct flag and also a limited number of PE copper plate sets instead of the standard copper tape that's supplied.

Ok folk,

I'll be resurrecting this one in the next week or so. There won't be the usual white backdrop pic as the manual is complete. These will just be workbench photos with my phone, except for the final images. I expect this to be done before the end of July. 

COMPLETED!

Hope you like her. On sale very soon  

A card template is made to aid adding the ratlines. I have drawn lines on these, 6mm apart.

Upper shrouds are now fitted.

And then the rest of the timber is built up. Yards, spars.....whatever you want to call them. I knew at least one guy who thought it was a big deal.

The anchors are 3D printed and have pear stocks with cartridge paper for the iron bands. 

The final updates.

The last week has seen me build up the mast stuff and rig Grecian. She now sits complete on my bench. 

First up is the bowsprit. This is a very simple structure with hardly any tapering of parts. 

The assembly now slots to the hull and the gammoning is added.

Grecian doesn't have a spritsail yard, making her look quite sleek. Still lots of cord to rig this area though.

Mast work begins with the crosstrees. 

These are then slotted to the shaped lower mast sections, and then fitted out.

The mass are now added and the shroud lines attached. Once complete, they are tied down with even tension via deadeyes/lanyards.

I admit that I always find those lower mast sections to be a chore!

34 minutes ago, Cowboy said:

I am building my first model, so I'm new to this. I chose OcCre HMS Terror. Tough project for a beginner, but I am a retired cabinet and furniture maker, so I am acquainted with detail. Maybe too much

My question is are the masts supposed to be perpendicular to the deck? Mine turned out to be leaning slightly astern.

I doubt that the masts would be perpendicular to the deck. Sure there should be an astern rake, even if only a few degrees.

That really looks superb. So jealous that you did this without stealers...

Here's a couple of the finished hull.

I did promise a small update, so I can. now show the hull completed.

There are a few things on the deck that need a little rope. The main one is the rudder tiller which is wired up to the ship's wheel via a simple block system. Also needing rope are the ladder hatch opening and the ship's boat. 

The chainplates/strops on Grecian are single piece PE parts. These are prised apart to pop the deadeye into place before being closed up again with tweezers.

There are only 14 deadeyes/shrouds on Grecian, making it a perfectly simple intro to ratlines. This will be a breeze to rig.

Rudder chain installed...

And now the completed hull photos. Next stage is masting.

I've actually forgotten to add a little info too. 

The outside channels have slots into which they fit, so no pinning whatsoever. That also goes for the inner bulwark belaying racks which have a tab and slot thing. I just made sure that I masked the contact area before I painted the bulwarks. Here's some pics of the coppering and the stern.

And finally, for today.

Stanchions on ready for cord, which I'll add when I do the next update.

Grecian comes with a LOT of choices for armament. Carronades feature heavily and paint is scraped away from where these are to be fitted. There is a small shelf on the exterior for the carronades, hence the paint removed.

Next two 6 pdrs and two 4 pdrs are added.

Here is the supplied 3D boat, with timber parts, nicely painted by my friend Mark who does my figureheads and cabin furniture.

And here is what Grecian now looks like!

It's chainplates etc. for next update, and maybe the bowsprit too.

Soon..