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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. Blue Ensign
    A good fix Alde, apart from planking issues the smooth sheer on this model is what gives it its beauty. Looking at your last photo; has bulkhead No 3 (5th from aft) slipped out of true? B.E.
  2. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Steve, Martin and Alde. @ Steve - if I re-do the stern decoration I would have to remove the strip frieze as well, not something I particularly fancy doing - we shall see @ Alde - Thanks for looking in, I see you have just started this build, hope you have a smooth run, at least along the planking. @ Martin - I have coated the stern decoration with Admiralty flat matt varnish ( how this differs from Matt Varnish I have no idea) but it has dulled it down a little. Good insight re the white paint, I hadn't thought about it re brightening the red paint I had so carefully toned down to give it a more 18th century look whatever that is. There have been times of late when the description 'nice little build' was the last thing on my mind. Still I'm due to be off to the Lakes and Mountains tomorrow,..... maybe, ...... if ex Hurricane Ophelia calms down a little, may have to defer for a day or so in which case I can fiddle with my Thwarts. Cheers, B.E.
  3. Blue Ensign
    Interesting idea Steve re the colour strength, I'll photo edit it and see if a more faded version improves the look. Cheers, B.E.
  4. Blue Ensign
    Cheers Bob and Jason, and for all the 'likes' Finishing the exterior. The decoration along the sheer is applied using pva and a 0.8mm square Boxwood strip applied below it as the moulding. 1500 Matt varnish is then applied to the decorative strip to seal it. 1493 The hull down to the waterline is then coated with Ochre enhanced satin varnish of the water based kind. Fairly happy with the treenailing effect along the hull, visible but not intrusive. The stern decoration was a little more involved. The kit provided patterns were far too large and would involve cutting away part of the design to fit. I downloaded the patterns provided by Chuck and the smallest version fitted just fine. I cropped and printed off several copies of this example on an A4 sheet to provide me with a few goes to get it right. 1494 As it happened the first attempt went on just fine using pva. The macro photo's reveal a little touching in is still required. A mixed blessing the macro lens, but at least it does act as an aid to failing eyes. 1495 The white border around the design was varnished over to match the hull. 1489 Not entirely sure I like the transom decoration, I think it has something to do with the greater depth and width of the transom on the kit model as compared to the NMM version. The NMM model has finer lines, a narrower transom profile, and greater depth of stern post which all reduces the impact of the stern decoration, more proportional I suppose. Fitting the rudder should help reduce the effect, something to ponder on awhile. B.E.
  5. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Derek and Steve, you're not kidding Steve, one to torture yourself with. but as I found with the Pinnace once past the planking part and into the detail, I became happier with the build. Thinking about the waterline. I had decided to paint below the waterline as per the contemporary NMM models, but the process caused me trouble. The waterline should run from the top of the stern post along to the stem, but I found getting this to look good ain't that easy. 1365 I fiddled around trying to get an even curve around the hull; I initially tried Tamiya tape for curves but it didn't seem to have much bite and kept falling off. I reverted to the usual yellow stuff which worked much better. 1370 So having achieved what I thought was a reasonable line matched each side it was time to bite the bullet. For this model rather than use white paint I decided to try a new 'Light Ivory' offering from Admiralty paints. 1469 It has a less stark appearance than white and is perhaps more scale friendly. 1470 This paint does seem to have a slight sheen on it so I will flat it out with Matt Varnish. 1478 1479 1480 At this point I have also laid some paint down on the capping rails. As with the Pinnace this is a mix of paints to achieve a tone that is pleasing to my eye. I am undecided as yet whether to paint the thwarts and cockpit seats red but this can wait. My inclination is to dispense with painting the Caprail edges and moulding strips white, a little too fussy for my taste, but it will also relieve me of a tedious painting job. Similarly a plain varnished edging to the Transom decoration will suit my eye better. In the next post I will complete the exterior of the boat. B.E.
  6. Blue Ensign
    Raising the Risings This is a crucial part of fitting out the boat. The Risings support the thwarts, and if they are not level each side of the hull the thwarts will clearly not be horizontal, something that will be instantly be apparent and this will spoil the whole effect. I have used the kit provided Limewood strip, but I have faced it with Boxwood which provides a smooth clean surface. Note: The kit instructions indicate use of 5/32" strip (3.97mm) but the plan shows a narrower width of 2.5mm. I have gone with the wider stuff not least because of the Windlass fitting. 1457 A simple jig is used to mark the upper line of the Risings along the frames, and one side is glued into place. Once set the other side can be temporarily pegged into place along the adjacent line and temporary thwarts used to check the alignment. 1460 Satisfied with the second Rising position, it too is glued into place. 1464 1466(2) The knee at the bow is pre-cut in the kit, but I replaced it with a Boxwood version. At this point I also added the locker front in the stern sheets. 1467 I forwent the pleasure of scribing decorative lines along the Risings, but they will be added to the Thwarts. I will next be looking at the waterline. B.E.
  7. Blue Ensign
    Really nice work on the coamings Jason, great look👍 B.E.
  8. Blue Ensign
    Cheers Martin, and thanks for the likes guys. Sand and check, sand and check, with the Longboat I resolved to reduce the frames to a finer profile than I did with the Pinnace, but the danger is that the finished job is quite fragile, and unlike the Pinnace there is no internal panelling to brace the hull, although there will still be the risers. 1339 I have now got the capping rail down to around 2.8mm and it looks about right to my eye bearing in mind that the thole pins will need to be inserted. The Footwalings are then put into place using Boxwood strip. 1338 For the stern and bow platforms a thin card template is used to get the fit and I then pva the Boxwood planks directly onto this, cut out the notches and the jobs done. 1347 I simulated nail heads in the footwalings by the use of yard brush bristles inserted into 0.5mm micro drill holes. 1349 The bow platform slopes to aft which is not really clear on the kit instruction photo's, but is apparent on the plan, and it needs to be low enough to allow the risers to pass over. 1354 At this point I also drilled micro holes (0.5mm) in the hull for the treenails. I will simulate these with coloured filler. The hull exterior can then be cleaned up. B.E.
  9. Blue Ensign
    Fine job on the stern area Bob, love the glazing effect, gives a nice period look. 😊 B. E.
  10. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Guys, Moving on... I used my etched micro saw blade in a scalpel handle to remove the bulkhead centres, mostly went well but a couple of frame extensions broke off above the sheer; easily fixed tho'. For sanding down the frames I used my minicraft drill to remove the bulk of the material and continued with sanding sticks. The frame extensions are soft and I simply snipped them off above the sheer and then sanded smooth. At this stage the hull feels quite fragile, and soft handling is a must. 1230 The cap rails I cut from some 1.5mm Boxwood sheet having made a card template. These were then glued into place and the sanding process begins. 1314 1328 1324 The sheer of the Longboat is evident in this shot. 1318 Chuck indicates that along the sheer the rail should be 3/32" or slightly wider or around 2.38mm overall. Thus far I have managed to get the rail width down to around 3.5mm, except for the flare at the bow, so I've a way to go. Similarly the frames are still a wip with more fining and finishing required. The basic hull is now complete, which is a great relief, but I see a fair amount of time is still required to address the deficiencies in the finish before I move on. Regards, B.E.
  11. Blue Ensign
    She looks so impressive Christian, I hope you have somewhere to show her off to best effect. B.E.
  12. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Steve and Jason. A bit of a tricky question Jason, no doubt after a six year absence of hull planking I was ring rusty when I started my Pinnace and following on immediately with the Longboat I did find it easier, particularly in relation to having a better appreciation of the necessary plank shapes. I think the Pinnace is a tad more difficult with its finer lines and greater length, and in retrospect I think I should have made the Longboat first, not that I think I made a particularly good planking job on the Longboat even with it being a second bite at the cherry. I did make things somewhat harder for myself by using very fine Boxwood strip (0.6mm thick) which leaves very little room for sanding adjustments. I took these two builds on as deliberate warm up to Chuck's Cheerful cutter, and I'm going to have to seriously raise my planking game before I start, but at least I have the correct Boxwood timber sizes for that build. B.E.
  13. Blue Ensign
    Thanks for your support guys. Planking is now completed. I planked alternatively from keel and Gunwale with the aim of getting the final strake just below the waterline level. 1206 1207 Worked out fairly evenly along the hull for the final spiled plank. 1208 The final plank shape was marked on tape over the hull and transferred to a broader plank to cut out. It was then a case of sanding/scraping by degrees to fit it along the hull. 1209 Final strips in place. 1210 1212 The hull now needs fine sanding and a little fettlin' to fill any hairline cracks along the plank joints. Relieved that this part of the build is completed, still not overjoyed with the planking, but it has turned out somewhat better than the Pinnace in that there is greater thickness of material left on the hull at this stage, just as well perhaps as the starting thickness was only 0.6mm. I will now spend some time cleaning up the hull before I remove the bulkhead centres. B.E.
  14. Blue Ensign
    I would have been very happy with that outcome Steve, nicely done. B.E.
  15. Blue Ensign
    However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model. I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up. I have always liked the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship. So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen) Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting. Regards, B.E.
  16. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills Time to think about planking. The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm. I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate. I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel. 1123 The sheer line was marked off on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made to form the sheer on the top planking strip. 1126 There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips. 1128 Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly wet/heat shaped to remove tension. I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab. 1134 The first two strakes below the sheer went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board. 1131 I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip. 1141 1143 1139 Planking will now continue to completion. B.E.
  17. Blue Ensign
    I felt very much like you do at this stage of the build, quite dissatisfied with the look of the planking in small areas. I think I would try the fill with sawdust/glue mix where the second plank meets the third, but if the result stood out, I think I would just remove the offending plank and spile a replacement. If you used pva it should be not too traumatic to remove the plank cutting thro' between the bulkheads, and easing off where glued by careful wetting with a paint brush point on the join. B.E.
  18. Blue Ensign
    Looks pretty clean to me Steve, and certainly better than mine was at that stage. Plank thinness seems to have afflicted several builders me included, but unless there is light behind it I found it not to be too problematical once the hull had been varnished, and in my case painted below the waterline. B. E.
  19. Blue Ensign
    With the keel proper added the assembly can be secured in the simple building board, and the process of adding the bulkheads can begin. 1092 I always start by fixing the centre bulkhead and then work fore and aft to ensure they are all lined up and set square to the keel. 1094 I use two Engineers Squares to check each Bulkhead is vertical and square to the keel, and mini levels for the horizontal line across the top. 1119 With the bulkheads in place I stick two bracing strips across the tops to help brace the bulkheads against the fairing process. The block on the top is to secure the boat inverted in a vice. 1114 Nothing fancy about the building board, just sufficient to hold the keel and stem in place. 1114 Fairing has just started in this shot, I don't bother to remove the char at this stage, it will clear soon enough and helps to show the fairing line. B.E.
  20. Blue Ensign
    Cheers Guys, Work begins cutting out the replacement stem and keel in Boxwood. The kit parts provide the templates. 1076 The false keel is prepped with the bearding lines cut in and the 'false' rabbet carried up to the stem. One of the problems I found with the Pinnace kit was the softness of the Basswood stem, making it susceptible to dinks and scarring. 1077 The false keel is fairly fragile and I managed to break off the top part whilst trial fitting the stem. At least the Boxwood stem will be more robust than the Basswood version. This is the time to also renew my sanding sticks and prepare a simple building board to secure the keel. B.E.
  21. Blue Ensign
    Love the photo's of your build Michael, although not intended, that last photo could so easily be a depiction of 'battle' damage, dislodged woodwork, and a jumble of rigging, looks very realistic. B.E.
  22. Blue Ensign
    18th Century English Longboat by Blue Ensign - MS 1:48 Scale. The second of the Model shipways kits which I am moving straight onto whilst I'm in the mood, and hoping to improve on my Pinnace build. As with the Pinnace I have 'previous' with this kit having already scratched a 1:64 scale version for my Pegasus build, from Chuck's plans. 1083 057 It was quite small with an hull length just shy of 4" so one might think a larger kit should prove easier. Not necessarily, I found I had more trouble with the 1:24 scale kit Pinnace than the scratched 1:64 version. I will use the kit provided false keel and bulkheads, but this time around I will replace the stem and keel with Boxwood. My aim is to otherwise not use any of the provided kit wood. The hull will be planked with Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Basswood, but this should be less problematic on the smaller Longboat than it proved to be on the much larger Pinnace. I now need to get the preparatory work done before I start assembly. B.E.
  23. Blue Ensign
    Love that Binnacle cabinet Bob, a fine piece of joinery. B.E.
  24. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Bob, Grant, Michael, Martin, Steve, and Christian. So this build is completed after a leisurely five month exercise. The final item to make the base board and hull supports. 1034 For the base I have used a plain piece of Boxwood sheet of 3mm thickness with slightly chamfered edges. 1036 You may recognise what I enlisted into service for the supports. 1037 For a change I made a greater effort for the final photo shoot. and here are the results. 0444 0448 0465 0475 0496 0497 1029 1038 1040 1044 1045 1046 1048 1049 1050 1053 1054 1056. Thoughts on the Pinnace kit. My thanks go to Chuck for designing this fine kit and giving us modellers the opportunity to build a nicely scaled model of an iconic 18th c boat. This is a fine little model but a sod to plank, although I did use rather thin Boxwood strip which allowed a very small margin for sanding corrections . The supplied basswood is not really suitable for a model of this single planked type being too soft and feathery to get clean edges. I did replace much of the wood with my stock Boxwood and were I to do it again I would use Boxwood overall albeit of a somewhat thicker strip for the exterior planking, allowing me a little more leeway for my planking deficiencies. I wasn't too happy with my work at the outset but as the build progressed and I got into the detail I eased up on myself somewhat, a model is more than the sum of its parts, and although I don't rate it as one of my best efforts, I do rather like the look of it outside of the prying eye of the macro lens. This has been a nice little five month summer project, not entirely relaxing, but with a satisfying result, and it has wetted my appetite for Chuck's forthcoming Barge kit. Regards, B.E.
  25. Blue Ensign
    Splashguards I toyed with the idea of making replacements out of Boxwood, but on reflection I think the kit provided items are just fine, particularly as they are painted. I did some preparatory painting before gluing the two elements together, the panel faces, and inner moulding edges. The guards were then sanded down to around 0.9mm in thickness. Before fitting, the seat back needed some very careful paring back using a scalpel and light sanding. I also needed to shape down the backrest top to fall just below the splashguard top edges. This all needs to be done with soft hands and by fine degrees, any slips at this point could prove problematic in restoration. The guards require the water /heat treatment to impart some curve to follow the line of the rail. This is another exercise that requires some care. It was good to have a spare unit in the kit as I did break one. I was a little concerned that the water would weaken the pva, but immersion was only for a few seconds before pegging around a jar top to apply the heat. On my Pinnace at least, two curves were required, a short one where the guard passed around the seat back, and a more gentle curve forward. 0968 Forming the aft curve. 0970 and the forward curve. Getting the curve right is necessary for the guard to sit on the rail without tension, otherwise gluing it will be a difficult task. 0974 Once I was happy with the fit I painted the exterior face of the guard. 0975 To get a good grip it was necessary to scrape a paint free line along the top of the rail. This was carefully done with a scalpel point. 0981 The actual fitting of the guards was problem free with quick grab using full strength pva. The inside faces of the guards were painted once in place. 0982 0983 0984 So the Pinnace is effectively finished, some fettlin' to do, and a base to make which I don't think will take too long. B.E.

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