Blue Ensign

Looking good, Cheerful is one of my favourite models, and yours is progressing nicely. 👍 Regards, B.E.

Thank you Bob and Rusty, and to those who have looked in and 'liked' Post 5 Preparing for second planking With sanding of the first planking completed the stem piece and keel and stern pieces can be added. I do rather like this method devised by Chris of having facing pieces in a nice wood which also provide a sort of rabbet for the second planking. Slight set back as my assistant decided to practice some abstract canine carpentry on one of the keel strips that had fallen from my bench. 6976 Fortunately, a strip of Pearwood from the part retaining fret was available to make a replacement. So here she is ready for the second planking, seems longer than the mere nine days since I actively started the project. 6920 Careful sanding down of the first layer around the bow and stern has allowed the ‘rabbets’ to provide sufficient edge to contain the second planking. 6925(2) A first opportunity to compare the Fifie and Zulu side by side. 6908(2) Sleeker than the Fifie and a tad longer, awaiting her transformation into a Swan. 6911(2) They will make a fine complimentary pair representing the apex of the Scottish fishing industry of the early 20th century. B.E. 29/08/20

Post 4 Completing the first layer. I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted. 6802(2) Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point. These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel. The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge. 6807(2) I then added three further strakes from the keel up. 6813(2) The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11. 6829 The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape. 6827 I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull. 6889(2) The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking. 6878 I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’. 6884 I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post. 6899(2) 6877 I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts. B.E. 28/08/20

Hi Tim, personally I’m not a fan of the black seizing around the bulwark ring, I think it would look better using natural thread. My own preference is to use a false splice; thread the end thro’ a needle, pass it thro’ the line close to the ring a couple of times, smear pva over it and roll thro your finger and thumb, and trim. Cheers, B. E.

Nice work on the hull, well done. 👍 The Pearwood comes up very nicely simply using wipe-on -poly. It is easy to make your own with oil based polyurethane thinned 50/50 with white spirit. It is also much cheaper than ready mixed stuff such as Minwax. I've no experience of using water based poly to make wipe- on but I 've read that it can be a little more tricky, and perhaps with less consistent results. B.E.

Post 3 First hull planking. Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts. The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’. 6716 It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding. Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this. The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required. I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide. For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend. I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft. 6744(2) With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost. This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend. A final check and the plank is glued and pinned. 6775(2) Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft. At this point I look at the Garboard plank. Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking. 6748 I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet. 6756 Fitting the Garboard strake. 6764(2) 6765(2) The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage. 6777(2) 6781 Four strakes and Garboard fitted. From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2) This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined. 6787(2) 6791(2) 6790(2) There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer. B.E. 25/08/20

Enjoyed reading thro' your log Rusty, what a fabulous build, I hope you have somewhere special planned to show her off. As far as the deck is concerned, aesthetically I would go for Boxwood, but really it is how it suits your eye. ps. Nice to see you have a new canine assistant, every shipyard should have a dog (or two) 🙂 Regards, B.E.

Once the sheer line is defined the Zulu emerges like magic 👍 B.E.

Ah, that must be it, subliminal influence, - I drive a 'full fat SUV' 😄 B.E.

I tend to agree with you Glenn which is why I chose the Fifie for the first build, and the Zulu is a more tricky hull to plank. Still I think she will look stylish once the hull is completed, first planks on this afternoon.🙂 Cheers, B.E.

Post 2 Preparing for planking The first step is to complete the fairing and add the Bulwark patterns. Fitting the bulwark patterns is a fairly painless exercise. 6706 Starting with the aft patterns soaking and wet fitting to form the shape using clamps to secure above decks, and bulkhead clamps for the lower edge. 6721 I use a hairdryer to speed up the process to establish shape memory, and the patterns can then be attached. Only the area below the bulkhead tabs is glued, so again clamps only are used to hold the top line. The lower edge is pinned into the bulkheads. 6730 It helps to have everything to hand before starting, clamps, pins, pin pusher, and means to apply the glue. 6720 For positioning the pattern I use the lower of the two horizontal lines etched into the inside of the patterns, to align with the sub deck level. This is something that was mentioned in the Fifie build, but not in the Zulu manual. In practice the top of the pattern mostly aligns with the tabs. The Fore pattern bends easily around to the stem without the need for wetting. I did give it a blast of hot air whilst dry fitted and left it insitu overnight whilst the aft pattern was curing. 6726 The fore pattern on my build at least, was a perfect fit for length. I temporarily fitted the stem post and the secondary stem piece to assist with alignment. 6733(2) The distinctive sheer sweep to the stern now clearly apparent, plank tapering is going to be a significant feature of this build. 6731(2) In this photo the stem piece is only dry fitted. 6739(2) I now need to consider my approach to planking. B.E. 22/08/20

Hi Richard, I love my little miller, and it is certainly robust enough for model making. I have only used it for woodwork to date, slotting sheaves in catheads, milling profiles etc; There are reviews on the forum of the mf70 which may inform its use with metal, but it is designed for metal use. I hope to have a holiday around Anstruther and see the Reaper which I based my Fifie build on. Regards, B.E.

That's a relief Chris, I can imagine the sinking feeling you must have had when the realisation dawned. If nothing else it will concentrate the minds of us early purchasers to check and double check. 😉 Cheers, B.E.

Post 1 First Steps - the basics. Usual stuff of assembling the false keel, bulkheads, and sub decks. Note: With the exception of the false keel (15) the other parts on the 3mm mdf sheet are numbered differently on the plan and in the manual. There are similar differences on the Bulkhead sheet, but the bulkheads do accord. 6671 A minor confusion and irritation and perhaps something that needs addressing going forward. I like to dry fit and fiddle around with the basic construction up to the fitting of the lower deck. The bulkheads are a slightly looser fit than on my Fifie kit, and to ensure proper alignment, once lightly glued on the false keel I used the lower floor, Lower deck pattern, and Fore and aft filling patterns to keep things ship shape. I initially glued the bulkheads 1-3 and then dry fitted the Fore filling pattern; followed by Bulkheads 10-14, secured by the Aft filling pattern; then the intervening bulkheads secured by the lower floor, and lower deck patterns. 6657 Any excess glue was removed from around the bulkheads before the dry fit items were put into place. The first three and last three bulkheads are marked for an element of pre-fit bevelling, which was done before fitting. As per the manual I also assembled the superstructure comprising a Poop deck, the companionway to the below cabin area, and Fish hatch, which is checked for fit in the lower deck. 6652 This structure won’t be needed for some time but is such that the fitting out of the Fish Hatch can be mostly done off model. The Poop decking will not be put into place at this stage as I intend to open up the Companionway. With the bulkheads fixed, the filling patterns are bevelled and glued into place, followed by the lower floor and deck pattern. 6665 The aft filling pattern is quite weak at its extreme end and one did snap during the bevelling process. 6667 Here temporarily supported until glued into place. Fitting the aft filling patterns gave me the most trouble at this stage. The Starboard pattern simply wouldn’t fit down flush with the keel without a deal of fettling, the port side was easier to fit but still needed a little slot sanding. I finally fitted them dry and ran diluted pva along the joints. At this stage the stern extension and last three bulkheads present a point of weakness. 6660 There is a risk that this section could snap off if knocked, or even by heavy handed fairing of the last three bulkheads, which is best left until the sub deck is fitted. The sub deck slotted between the bulkhead extensions without trouble and without any damage to the tabs. 6687(2) The structure is now strong and rigid and can be handled with more confidence. My final step in this stage is to add the rather nice Pearwood keel and stern post. 6695(2) These slotted together and into the false keel with an excellent fit. As with the Fifie kit Chris has provided a number of keel alignment patterns, a simple but innovative idea. 6689(2) Although shown in place here the manual calls for leaving the stem piece off until completion of the first planking; I’m undecided about taking this approach, my natural instinct is to rabbet the stem piece. Effectively the first planking needs to be reduced to a feather edge at the bow and stern to allow for the second planking to fit flush into the secondary stem piece which forms a rabbet for the Pearwood planking. B.E. 21/08/20

Thanks Glenn, yes it is the Cheerful plan, I think they make great 'art' works in their own right. I also have the Pegasus plan framed in the same manner. I look forward to seeing your completed Cheerful hull, I think you will be pleased it. I love the look of the Cheerful hull, with its high quality wood finishes, and minimal contrasting paintwork. For me the next phase of a build - the fitting out, is the part I enjoy most. B.E.

Enjoyed reading through your log JpR, love the colour combinations you have achieved, and the look of her. I would be very happy to have produced your fine little model. Nice work 👍 B.E.

Thanks Martin, My bench was store bought many years ago, it does have and end vice as well but not enough room to fit it. Those dog holes will be useful for some functions, but I had to buy a thick surface protector so I don't loose bits when using it for more general work. @ Bob, The Harold Underhill plans are widely available for around £10 each in the UK. As for the name; as a mere Sassenach, I would hate to presume on the Gaelic pronunciation of Muirneag. I've never heard it spoken, but would hazard a phonetic guess at Moor'nag. 🤔 Would be interesting to know from someone who's heritage lies north of Hadrian's Wall, but even north of Hadrian's Wall, there's north and then again north. 😃 B.E.

So the work space has been cleared up. 6629 It won't look this tidy again until completion of the Muirneag project. 6632 I'm clearing out the garage, so I've also taken the opportunity to move my woodworking bench into my office to give me more working surface. Must have been destined as it turned out to be a perfect fit. 🙂 On with the show. B.E.

Very nicely done Doug, like the shaping of the gratings, and the guns look to have turned out just fine. 👍 B.E.

Interesting subject and a fine looking model Don, she looks great on your mantel shelf. 👍 B.E.

Cheers Guys for your interest.🙂 @ Yves – Chris has done a fine job with this kit which stands very well in its own right, and I’m impressed with the level of small detail provided. Inclusion of such items as the coal bunker hatch, pump deck plate, additional hook positions for the Fore tack, roller for the warp hatch, and the distinctive horizontal wheel, pay testimony to the research Chris has put into this kit. I don’t really think additional wood sheets are required, it’s more a question of tweaking the layout to suit Muirnead. My least favoured detail are the unconvincing rings for the fish hatch boards, I didn’t include them on the Fifie, and they are not shown on the Muirneag plans, or actual photos of sailing drifters, as far as I can see. I can sort of see why perhaps Chris included them given his target market, some modellers may like to see them as a feature, and it avoids the question – shouldn’t there be hatch rings. @ John – The story of working these boats is fascinating, and I’m full of admiration for the skill and bravery of the fishermen who handled these large luggers in the less than desirable conditions of the North Sea. A very hard life indeed. @ Bob – Having all that reference material is of great help when undertaking a project such as this, but I’ll consider myself lucky if I get anywhere near to those wonderful scratch builds. Thanks to Chris he has provided the makings to have a go. @ Grant – Thank you for your support, I’ll try to do it justice. 👍 B.E. 13/08/20

Muirneag 1903 – A Scottish Zulu Fishing Boat. 1:64 scale Based on the Vanguard Models Zulu Kit. I have decided to remodel the kit to represent the Muirneag, a sailing Zulu that had a working career of 36 years, being broken up in 1947. Zulu seems a strange name for a Scottish fishing boat type, but came about because it was first developed at the time of the Zulu wars. It was a hybrid fishing vessel, taking the best qualities of the Scaffie (sharply raking stern) and the Fifie (vertical bow) Many Zulu’s were converted to steam but Muirneag continued as a sailing drifter to the end of her career. I prefer to model an actual subject and the kit represents a large Zulu boat prevalent at the very end of their development in the early 20c with a length of some 80 feet, the Muirneag of 1903 is a prime example, and the kit fits the bill for modification. A comparison of the kit plans and those of the Muirneag, confirms that the major dimensions are comparable, and the deck layout and fittings are pretty much the same with only minor variances which won’t present any difficulties to address. I don’t have the actual masting and yard dimensions for Muirneag but I do have details for other large Fifie/ Zulu boats which are not very different from the kit provided detail, so there should not be any issues with fitting the kit provided sail set. There is a lot of information about Muirneag: Large scale, highly detailed plans by Harold Underhill, and a couple of builds based on these plans that provide excellent photos. Muirneag built by Gordon Williams who recorded his build in Model Shipwright No’s 143 and 144 and has online details of his build. http://www.muirneag.net/ A Muirneag model built by Jan van den Heuvel with excellent detail photos. https://www.modelships.de/Muirneag_J_v_d_Heuvel/Muirneag_J_v_d_Heuvel_eng.htm There are photos of a Muirneag model in the NMM built by Geoge MacLeod https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/65970.html With all this information addressing any simplifications necessitated by the kit format is made a whole lot easier. My initial research on the Fifie will also pay dividends when it comes to the Zulu and save some of the initial head scratching I had with the Fifie build. B.E. 12/08/20

Thank you, mugje, Glenn, Bob, and Edward, much appreciated. 🙂 B.E.

Thanks Derek, not smelling the Herring is one of the upsides of building 100 miles from the sea.😄 I did scale a Herring to 1:64, and then sanity was restored.🙄 I'm sticking with the Fishing theme and moving onto the Zulu. 🙂 Cheers, B.E.

Thank you Michael, Yves, Grant, and Bob,and for the likes. @ Bob - The crew are Modelu 3d printed figures. They are primarily Model railway figures which are produced in all the Rail scales, including S scale which is 1:64. They are really finely detailed, best I’ve seen; not cheap at £7.40 each but they are suitable for the late 19th/early 20thc period. Just right for a model such as this. Regards, B.E.