
mort stoll
NRG Member-
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Everything posted by mort stoll
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As you can see I removed part of #105 in order to build part of the captain’s area. In retrospect I should have removed both of the top parts of #105 and the keel piece but I couldn’t visualize if it would work or not if the stern fascia #374 would properly fit. The pictures show the captain’s quarter gallery with a hanging lantern and commode. Also shown are some furniture dry fitted in the captain’s day cabin.
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Hi, I think I've figured out how to post pictures, which don't do any justice to the real life appearance. Hopefully I can do it again. I'll try post earlier ones. The above show the forecastle breast beam assembly, with the exposed port side upper gun deck, the masters cabin - with bed, desk and clothes trunk - the admirals sleeping cabin - with wash stand, clothes trunk and bed - partially exposed admiral's dining cabin and the captains dining and day cabins. I'm awaiting more parts from Caldercraft and then I can complete the captain's dining and day cabins. Stay safe and well, Mort
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Well done sailor. Very, very well done. Mort
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Help! Deadeyes and rings issue. Mamoli Constitution Kit
mort stoll replied to jfitzjr1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You can make your own dead eye rings out of wire or black thread. Simply wrap them around the dead eye, mount them and you should be good to go. Hope this helps, Mort -
Can't thank you enough for your posts. You have no idea how much I admire and respect your build. Keep up the great work Stay safe and well, Mort
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Hi Robert, If it were me I would paint them black so everything matches. Be safe, and keep up the wonderful work. Mort
- 527 replies
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impressive, very nice, very very nice. mort
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Well done sailor. Very, very well done. Mort PS Where did you get those figures? They are wonderful.
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Well done sailor, very, very well done. mort
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I bought 2 boats from CMB and mounted them on the stern quarters. worked out well. Mort
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Hi Mark, I use DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. It's not the same as the cement you would use on plastic models. Fact is I don't what it's used for. It's just contact cement. My mentor used it and whatever he said ALWAYS worked. I have been using it since 1986 with no longevity problems at all. In fact I just had a new can delivered 2 weeks ago for my Victory. Same brand, it's supposed to be low odor except it takes about an hour to dry. If not I go back to the other contact cement. Mort
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Hi Mark, I think I'm in the minority as I use contact cement when I copper a hull. I buy it in 3 ounce bottles, which keeps the fumes down and also apply it with the windows open. The bottle contains a small brush for application. I brush a thin covering onto the hull - a 3x3 or 4X4 area. I then apply it to each copper plate - yes it's time consuming. By then - approximately 15 minutes - the glue on the hull has begun to cure and I then copper the hull. I like contact cement because I have a few minutes to reposition the plates after I apply them if necessary, as opposed to Ca which instantly dries. If any cement does adhere to a plate I simply and easily peel/rub it off. Finally should it be necessary to slightly adjust or remove a plate after they completely dry I heat the plate with a soldering iron on low heat adjust or replace it. Any questions, don't hesitate. Keep up the great work. Hope this helps, Mort
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