ccoyle

9 hours ago, bcochran said:

Some day in the future I may take up the rigging again.

It's my firm conviction that one should never feel obligated to finish a model for which one has lost the necessary enthusiasm. The proof of my conviction lies in the smattering of unfinished projects on my shelves.

On 11/14/2022 at 7:56 AM, Rik Thistle said:

I've never done 'weathering', or tried to turn plastic in to metal using paints etc.

Me neither. I built plastic models in my youth, always sans weathering, and one reason I've never gone back to them is the daunting learning curve for achieving realistic weathering. My hat is off to all who have acquired that particular skill set.

Here's a link to all of the Constellation build logs, in case you missed any.

8 hours ago, bcochran said:

I ask is anyone interested in another Lindberg 1/20 Christ Craft Constellation build log?

The more the merrier. The RC segment of our site can always benefit from some more content.

1 minute ago, Roger Pellett said:

Pheasants are not supposed to be native to the Midwest USA.  Supposedly they were imported from China.  I thought those in Britain might be non-native too.  That’s why I asked the question.

They are originally from Asia, but have been introduced into many parts of the world, e.g. Europe, North America, Australia.

A number of kit manufacturers (e.g., Dusek, Mamoli, Artesania Latina, Amati) produce kits of Santa Maria.  If you search the internet for those kits, you will likely find retailers or other sellers who offer the plan sets separately.

First bits glued together. First I have a shot here of a parts page with some structural parts cut out.

Exciting, right? Actually, I included this shot to show the unwary newbie cardist one of the potential pitfalls of card modeling. The parts on this sheet marked with an asterisk are meant to be glued to 1 mm cardboard before cutting out -- unless, of course, one buys the laser-cut frames set. But, if one glues the entire printed structural part (the beige part) to its laser-cut counterpart, the laminated part will be too thick and cause fit problems later. The solution? Cut out and use only the colored portions of the parts, i.e., the parts that will show on the finished model. Here's what that looks like:

All of the three-dimensional parts you see in that photo are printed in 2D on the interior cockpit skins; that gives the builder the option of a simplified construction sequence. Adding the optional 3D parts for this model is not difficult because of the low parts count.

Cheers!

Nicely done!

Okay, USS England has been put on hold for a bit while I wait for some materials and explore the possibility of acquiring some more 3D-printed parts. So, instead of sitting around waiting for stuff to happen, I decided to start another model. I didn't want to start something too complex, because I will be departing for California for two weeks during Christmas break, and I'm hoping to knock this out before then.

You may know the Fokker E.V "flying razor" better as the D.VIII; the latter designation was assigned after some improvements were made to the original E.V. The type arrived at the front in late 1918 and served in small numbers. They were used by the Polish Air Force after the war.

Not too much to say about the kit -- it is another outstanding model from Kartonowa Kolekcja. This will be my 5th KK kit. The glossy cover features artwork by the designer, Pawel Mistewicz.

The kit can be built in four different liveries. KK seems to always build the prototype model in my favorite livery, so I will be building the mount of Erich Loewenhardt..

Excellent printing with a nice touch of weathering on four sheets of parts. As usual, there are options for simpler or more detailed elements.

KK diagrams are among the best in the business.

I also have the laser cut elements.

Upwards and onward!

15 minutes ago, BillB said:

I can't figure out how to delete it.

Fixed. All that was necessary was to remove it from your uploaded images tray.

16 minutes ago, BillB said:

Also can someone help explain the concept of multiple pages?

Pages roll over automatically.

37 minutes ago, LEFEBVRE said:

Pourriez vous me préciser le cheminement à suivre pour traduire mes messages du Français à l'Anglais?

Merci de votre réponse.

Google Translate works very well for this purpose. I used it to translate your message!

https://translate.google.com/

Hi, Meghan.

You can copy-and-paste your photo directly into your reply (assuming you have a digital copy of it).

11 minutes ago, shipmodel said:

They are the people who restored Coronet to its pristine condition.

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but isn't Coronet still a work in progress? The last updates I saw were from 2019.

Welcome aboard, Steve!

35 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Free Time Hobbies has Infini line in stock

Yep, that's where I ordered from as well.

Oop, yeah -- forgot about that one. That's the same guy that does the 3"/50s. I may have to email him and see if I can arrange something. My wallet might object. 😬

For me, the issue with scissors is control. Working with a blade is much more precise.

What the heck -- I ordered both, fine and medium.

Before attempting to tackle the daunting task of rigging, I decided I will take a little detour and try making some of the guns first. The 20 mm mounts are 3D printed, so no issues there. The 3"/50 resin set included only barrels -- depending on how the construction of the mounts goes, I may opt to replace those with complete 3D printed guns available from another producer (they're not cheap). As far as I can find, though, no one makes a 3D printed 1.1" quad mount, so that one I will have to make mainly out of card in any case. Here's the parts sheet and printed barrel set. Yeah, this is gonna be fun. 🤔

14 minutes ago, CDW said:

mk.20-20 eyeballs

I just had an eye exam a couple of months ago, during which my ophthalmologist informed me, at the ripe old age of 59, that in addition to my numerous floaters, astigmatism, 20-30 vision (corrected) in one eye and 20-40 in the other, I now have "all three" kinds of cataracts in their early stages of formation. No doubt this is from years of squinting at tiny modeling elements. 🙄

I may just have to pull the trigger on some Infini line -- I'm a sucker to try new things. Your comment about the medium vs. fine makes me wonder whether fine may not be better -- at stand off viewing distances, 1/250 wire rigging does really kind of disappear. What are your thoughts?

We have a number of finished Wye River Models kits on our site. Definitely a mom & pop operation and off the beaten modeling path, but like you said, they offer unique subjects, and people do manage to finish them. Good luck!

I'd like to get some more info on the Infini line, with which I'm unfamiliar. I looked it up online just now and see that it comes in a variety of colors and diameters. The line that they recommend for 1/200 scale ships is half the diameter (and twice the price) of fine EZ Line, and supposedly stretches, same as EZ line. Do you know if it is round in cross-section (EZ line is flat), and how well does it glue to different materials?

Thanks, Egilman. I will be giving much thought to how to do this task. Some of the obvious hardware, e.g. sheaves and turnbuckles, is nearly impossible to replicate at this scale, and the attachment points are not always plainly marked (not helped by the dark camouflage colors, especially the deck). I will be moving ahead slowly -- might even need to take an airplane break before tackling this!

Finished mast (60 pieces).

Yes to the first question. The only restriction on the gallery is that the model be finished.

You can certainly create a retroactive build log in the build logs section -- that is not an uncommon thing to do here.