ccoyle

I appreciate the little things in the design, like having the tick marks at the stem and stern to guide affixing the planks. But the system isn't 100% foolproof -- there's a little bit of wiggle room in where to glue the false stem and stern posts, and that can effect how the planks are laid. I'm just hoping that in my WH build that I've got everything close enough, and that error creep won't become a major factor. It's a good thing that this isn't a Halinski kit -- with Halinski, the design tolerances are so tight that if you get off by even a fraction of a millimeter, you're in deep, deep doo-doo.

Your patience appears to be paying off, as so far it looks good!

Panart. You can see an example here.

In Mariposa County, California, where I used to live, the winding Highway 49 North traversed the very deep Merced River gorge, with no guard rails. I once asked a friend of mine in the sheriff's office how many vehicles were somewhere down in the canyon out of sight from the road and beyond the reach of tow cables; his answer was something along the lines of "more than people realize."

I'm going to agree with Jonny, who has rightly observed that the Bounty is not an ideal kit for a beginner. A larger problem as I see it is the "month or two" time frame that you mentioned. Some of our members who are retired and also seasoned model makers can pull off something like that in a month or two, but you are looking at a project that will take you a minimum of several hundred hours to complete, even you knew what you were doing. As a beginner, it will likely take much longer. Jonny's suggestion about the longboat is a good one. It's been a popular beginner's kit around here. Cheers!

😂

Welcome!

Reached a milestone of sorts today. The hull planking can be roughly divided into lower hull and upper hull, and I have finished the lower part -- the upper hull planking requires the installation of the upper stem and stern posts before proceeding. This brings us to the 12th page of the instruction booklet 😊 -- out of 39 pages 🥺 .

Welcome, Bill. With the aid of Chuck's practicum, you can achieve a great result. Have fun!

Very nice! I owned this kit many years ago, but never got around to building it. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on it. Cheers!

Per Google Translate (which apparently is also not 100% fluent in Japanese): Thank you for rating. It is 1/100 made by Corel. Repeatedly deforming and omitting details. The Stan side is currently under consideration.

Welcome! Dromon, eh? Then you need to read through this build log. Enjoy!

It's not. I'm guessing that's just a suggestion in the manufacturer's instructions. Wood glue will do the job just fine, and you can clamp the piece to make sure it fits snugly to the curve.

Here's the cased model in its natural setting. It's pretty small, even in a case!

12.5" L x 7.5" W x 7.6" H, as reported on their website. I assume they mean external dimensions.

One final picture. I wanted to find a case option for this little model that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg. Most small cases found at hobby and craft stores have dimensions meant for cars, trains, or sports memorabilia, i.e. usually too wide and/or too short for a given length. I finally found this case at a local Michael's crafts store. It is a football display case, hence the mirrored back, and it might be a tad too large, but for only $30 I thought it was quite suitable. There was a little plastic holder for a football inside the case, but happily it was only secured with some two-sided tape. I think I will keep an eye open for a small wooden base to go inside the case to elevate the model slightly, and I will also order a brass nameplate.

Ha! Good one -- I'll have to remember that for future use. I'm using RapidFuse, a medium-cure CA from DAP. For the lapstrake planks, I apply CA to the bulkheads and planks end, the brush on some PVA on the overlapping plank edge. This has worked well so far on the first four such planks.

So, I fixed my way around the slight fit problem. This shot shows the last of the flush-fit planking belts near the keel. Subsequent strakes will overlap slightly, lapstrake-style. Couple of things to take note of as shown in the next photo. In the instructions, the plank bits are marked with arrows pointing toward the bow. The kit parts did not have these marks. Second thing is to note that the clamp in the instructions photo only catches the tip of the plank being glued. Clamping the plank to the stem or stern piece along the entire edge will crimp the plank and create a depression in the hull. I learned this the hard way. 🙄 I achieved a better result by using medium-cure CA at the plank end and holding it in place while the glue set; it should really be only an edge-to-edge join.

I see the difference now between this and the wooden kit -- the wooden kit does not have a first layer of hull skinning, hence the differences in the parts numbers.

55. The parts must be numbered differently, or else the construction sequence and/or method is different.

Ah. Pin rail sounds logical, although its construction doesn't seem right to me. Someone with more knowledge of colonial schooners may be able to express a more informed opinion than I can offer.

I can't tell from that plan what exactly is supposed to be fabricated. Try checking out some of the finished Hannah builds in the gallery, such as this one, where the post does not have any horizontal component.

Any mild acid will etch brass, even good ol' vinegar. The brass needs to be thoroughly cleansed of any releasing agents; simply scrub with warm water, a toothbrush, and a mild detergent, then rinse well and allow to air dry. Once washed, avoid handling the actual parts. Brass parts can also be chemically blackened -- doing a site search with "blackening brass" will turn up many threads on that process. A third option is to spray-paint the parts -- fast-drying flat black primer works quite well for the purpose and doesn't require a color top coat.

Wow! Your dad's workshop would be the envy of many modelers here. Sorry to get back to you so late on your query about the GH. Bob Cleek made some very salient comments about the challenges inherent in building a large scale model, but when I read your original post I did not think that that was what you had in mind. Some people have built vary large sailing models of everything from sailing men-of-war to modern battleships whose emphasis is much more on sailing than on being faithful to the original in every respect. These models are more like impressions of the real thing, and that is what I believe you have in mind. GH should be within your capabilities given your motivation and determination, especially if your dad is helping you, but you will find that it is not necessarily a simple project and may take more time to complete than you anticipate -- be patient and enjoy the process, and you may eventually find that you and your dad enjoy building little models as well as large ones. The main reason why I suggested that you try your hand at something like GH is first of all to get your feet wet at working in wood, second that you discover that there is a multitude of skills that must be acquired to build something like a scale wooden model, and third that you observe how a galleon built from a kit is not a real galleon in terms of its construction but rather a compilation of compromises in materials and construction methods based on the needs and desires of a 21st-century modeler rather than those of a 17th-century sailor. As I believe I said in my original post, some of those kit methods may work when scaled up to a larger sailing model, but your larger model will of course have to take in to account additional considerations based on the fact that it will be much larger and need to actually sail. As I said, we have members here who are knowledgeable on such things, but I'm not one of them. To see a large-scale sailing model being built by one of our members, check out this build log for a 1/36 scale brig.

Mine are parts 55 L & P. The curvature of the bottom of each piece doesn't exactly match those of the previously laid strakes, creating a sliver of a gap, and the stern ends creep up a bit, hitting the stern post about a half-millimeter past the tick mark. Doesn't sound like much, but so far the kit has fit together essentially flawlessly, so this is a bit of a hiccup. I'm waiting until I'm rested and in the proper "frame of mind" before tackling this.