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NMBROOK

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Everything posted by NMBROOK

  1. Hi Frank,Mark beat me to it This is the only source I know of the period,all my own material for both English and French vessels is much earlier in time Kind Regards Nigel
  2. She looks looking terrific Bob ! great work .Personally,my artistic nature told my historically accurate side where to get off a while back I know which route I would take Kind Regards Nigel
  3. She is looking grand Mark The rudder is just a minor setback,I have the utmost respect for you for going ahead and reworking it.It makes me think,back in the day before internet forums,you just used to see pics of completed models in books and magazines and the reader assumed wrongly that everything went smoothly with the build.I wonder how many were discouraged when their efforts didn't meet muster the first time around? I now view a project as just that,to build a model of 'X',whatever has to find it's way in the scrap bin between start and completion is immaterial Kind Regards Nigel
  4. Looking good Bill The penny has now dropped exactly the direction you are taking with this area Are you planning on leaving the 'slats' as is or are you going to add pieces to form an actual grating? Kind Regards Nigel P.S. on a different note,Yourself and others may find this interesting,a model of the her later namesake,the 'Royal Sovereign' http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic9188.html
  5. Excellent work Frank I beg to differ with Druxey,Vertical scarphs for English ships,but the French scarphed keels horizontally,as this ship was built in Quebec,the latter style may have had some influence in design. Kind Regards Nigel
  6. Thank you Bill,B.E and Kevin. We hired a van yesterday and emptied our storage unit.I know I like to have a few projects on the go at once but was struck by the reality of exactly what I have infront of me .I have always been of the mindset that it would be best to have plenty stashed for my retirement whilst still earning before the harsh reality of todays underperforming pension schemes kick in Taking into account I have twenty years until retirement,I am going to have to live to 100 To cut to the chase,I am going to focus on Nuestra 100% until completion and then revisit this and other builds Kind Regards Nigel
  7. Sounds like a good approach Dave,you haven't mentioned whether your kit is double or single planked?If it is single planked and the bulkheads are quite far apart,you tend to get kinks where you have joins in the strips.Simulated joints is a better approach in this instance.Like Chris rightly says,a scribed line and then drawn in with pencil after the hull is sanded is all that is needed(assuming you are using pencil for your caulking). If I have a plank with a long sweeping taper,I shape in a long strip and then cut to scale length before fitting.This prevents any slight steps in the taper at the joins. As is said frequently,start a log and ask questions if you are unsure.It is easier to advise if there are a sequence of photos to follow and then to work out the next step Kind Regards Nigel
  8. Hi Dave I think that it is necessary to clarify what appearance you are after.You can plank with kit supplied material with tapering and no clinkering HOWEVER the planking will look nothing like the planking on a real ship.You can compensate by edge bending the strip but that has its limitations and it''s effectiveness varies with wood species.This does vary a lot with hull shapes,I am a glutton for punishment and build 3 deckers mainly.These hull shapes are very unforgiving when trying to use parallel strip. As the original would have the wales fitted prior to planking the planking must appear to run inbetween the wales to look authentic.This again compounds the problem that planks need to curve in two directions,quite a lot on some vessels due to the sheer compounded with the hull curving inward. Regarding tapering,it really doesn't matter which side you taper and on the garboard,this piece invariably is anything but straight so there isn't really a tapered side. On my build of Nuestra Senora (the pic Chris has used above)things get even more complex,the hull is divided into bands of planks on the lower hull,but these bands are tweaked to provide a pleasing visual run when viewed from all angles.This does not follow exact ship building practice,but reflects the style that contemporary models were planked,with no stealers or drop planks. Regarding sheet stock,I would wait until your kit arrives to determine exactly what thickness you require. Kind Regards Nigel
  9. I see what you mean Mike,but it sounds like the wood is saturated,Too much oil has been applied without the necessary interval inbetween.It will dry,it is just a case of being very patient.Wiping any film off that may rise to the surface just prevent anything nasty being dried on the the top. Kind Regards Nigel
  10. Hi Mike I would leave it,just wipe over with a clean cloth daily until the excess oil has gone.Do not apply any poly until the oil has finished 'gassing out'. Normally I leave tung oil 24hrs between coats.The only finish you can apply relatively quickly in successive coats is shellac. Kind Regards Nigel
  11. Ian,you can also increase the depth of colour produced by the poly by applying a few well thinned coats rather than using the varnish neat Only the last one needs to be straight out of the tin Kind Regards Nigel
  12. Ian,edited my post after googling Yes it is what you call mineral spirits Kind Regards Nigel
  13. Truly astonishing work Alejandro I am a fan of Spanish ships but have been disappointed by the lack of information on the net.I don't speak Spanish,but as they say a picture is worth a thousand words Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Excellent work on the wales Ian If you plan on using polyurethane for finishing them,I would say this will bring the differing shades of the timber out and make you planking pattern more visible.Give them a light wipe with white spirit,whilst still wet it gives a fair impression what they will look like when varnished Kind Regards Nigel
  15. I immediately thought of this Alex when I saw Marks post http://otwdesigns.com/products/other-navies/french-surcouf/.HoweverI think this is the same model kit. The Surcouf did go through some changes during her life,most notably the gun director and conning tower.There used to be a manufacturer called John Darnell in the UK that produced hull mouldings and plans for a working model.Many years ago I saw a model built to his plans and there seemed to be more exposed 'scaffolding' for want of a better word,in her construction. Sorry I can't be more helpful,but photos seem to be thin on the ground. Kind Regards Nigel
  16. Alexandru,wow,this has got to be the most spectacular models of Victory I have seen.I am not a big fan of too much paint on my own models,I would rather let the beauty of the timber shine through,so your build appeals to me greatly . Stunning work! Kind Regards Nigel
  17. Continually amazed by your attention to detail Michael You do know the museum model is 1/10 and you are working at 1/75 Have you tried annealing the brass eyelets first?they will be work hardened from the stamping process.This should stop the tearing Kind Regards Nigel
  18. It is fantastic to see you back in the shipyard Bill.I have had along break from my build due to new job and finally selling and moving house.This ship isn't one I can pick up and do an odd hour here and there,it is just so time absorbing. One of the great things about this vessel is that unless you build a kit OOTB then there is so much choice due to personal interpretation of the reference material. I look forward to seeing more,it may also give me the push I need to revisit mine. Kind Regards Nigel
  19. Fantastic Marsalv! Do you plan on leaving some of the deck planking off so this is visible when the model is complete? Kind Regards Nigel
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