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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. Do you work from drawing, or from the Corelkit? PW makes a nice model. Jan
  2. Coming along nicely. hope you stacks are not fitted permanently, you put them back-to-front.... I found getting the right colours a bit problematic (as did the paint shop who helped me ....) I noticed that you painted the upper decks blue. Never realized that they were not always green. (I did them green, as per the billings instructions) Jan
  3. How come that the ship is rusty but the two aft gun towers looks as if they were in the factory yesterday....? And now a serious question: what was the function of thise heavy chains rigged at the bow? Jan
  4. I guess I gave this link before. It is one of the models Mamoli based their kit on. https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/NG-MC-673 It is a contemporaneous model, with original rigging done by the builders of the 1:1 ship. Notice the heavy main stay. Almost as thick as the yards of the square sail, and as thick as the gaff of the top gaf sail. Jan
  5. Hi Sandor, Is it the rope that is too thick, or is it your expectations that did expect something small? Bear in mind that the old-fashioned hemp-ropes needed to be way thicker than the modern materials to have the same strength. On my Prins Willem (scale somewhere around 1:80-1:100), the mast is 11 mm in diameter, the main stay around 1.8. It looked a bit heavy at first, but now the whole rigging is done, and all is more or less in proper thickness, the total picture looks right to me. The only thing: The first version of the 2 mm-rope was too coarse: you could see the strands from 'quite a distance'. The rope should be proper laid, otherwise out looks out of scale. [edit]. My post crossed with the previous. One additional remark: the Dutch contemporaneous models tend to be 'oversized' when it comes to rope-thickness: from that point of viewchoose 5% oversize, and not 16% undersized thickness. The other reason to choose the oversized stay: all ropes have a more or less fixed ratio to the stay. Choosing undersized stay, will make using the proper ratios fro the remainder of the rigging more difficult (less sizes available between .1 and 1,5 mm than between .1 and 2.0 mm.) In the end the variation in thickness of the ropes used is what counts for the overall impression. Jan
  6. JSC has multiple ways of building the hull. This one I didn't know. Warning: tolerances are quite low, especially when starting the hull. Make sure you work as precise as possible. Question: do you have a scanner/printer? If so, it may be worthwhile to scan the kit, and use the scan to provide spare parts, or test-parts for the difficult parts. Jan
  7. Hallo Matthias, Welcome at MSW! and for all interested in the buildlog of this noce model: it is here (in German) https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t2889f685-Zeesboot-um-ca-Massstab.html Jan
  8. I like them as they are now: put aside, but not too neatly. Jan
  9. Quite off-topic: what do you use for background in your last pics? Jan
  10. Hi Maury, did you hit the “ignore”-button on your own log? Your last post dates from thursday, and was right on top of the list. (at least, when I looked at it) [edit] just checked. You can’t ignore your own topics. you can change the sorting of the list of postings. Perhaps you changed to something else than ‘recent first’ Jan
  11. Can't see it based on the pics, but it could also be a brass signal gun. And it looks as if the carriage was brown from its beginning. Jan
  12. I see, I already thought so: hz sounds like huizen, but it is a non-existent code. For all non-dutch: Dutch law presribed an indication on the mainsail which made the ship reconizable: the lettering refers to the home-port, the number is just a count: the order of registration. First ship registerd got a 1, second 2 etc. Jan
  13. Looks great! in the first pics only the fact that the lid on the 'bun' are missing (and show a non-rendered grey insidegave themodel away. in your last pic,I guess most skippers wouldhave reduced sailjust to main and fore-sail, and would have stricken bezaan and kluiver when the wind startd to grow steonger (especially because the fishing gear is still out) Is Hu37 a fictitious ship? (Couldn't make out the village that uses hu as indication) Jan
  14. There are even places where you can rent them for a day out. Near higway A12: duckcity.nl. Rent a Duck for a party, day out, etc. Seems to be a nice business.... I don't have positive memories with those ugly ducklings: leaking, not wind and water proof. Jan
  15. It is not isolated, the last pic in my log also rotated. but as it is long ago that I uploaded it, I don't know when it rotated. It only happened to the pics that I made using my Iphone, manually rotated, and uploaded. When uploaded it had the orientation I gave to it, now it is back to its original orientation. No need to correct it, but just to letyou know that something changed (somewhere, sometime). Jan
  16. Hi Mike, The question often arises. But - without any pics or additional info - my guess would be that those models are worth their sentimental value. Remembrance to (grand)dad, but without any monetary value to the outside world. As you say that they have been in a bedroomshelf, my guess is that they are something like 'decorators models', that were quite common between 1935-1975. Mass produced, intended to give the impression of a somewhat older model, depicting a shiptype, rather than an actual ship. Jan
  17. Perhaps a stupid question, but what ship/model is shown in the new banner? (or do I now officially qualify as an outsider by not knowing ? ) Jan
  18. Fun! Another out-of-the-ordinary build.:) Jan
  19. Haven't posted here for some time, but the model has turned out very convincing! All the research and work has certainly paid off. Jan
  20. Can your "home production" cope with the potential increase of demand without damage to your health, or are you in for a 24/7 year -round production scheme to keep up? Jan
  21. In my experience: the pinrail does not split at drilling (especially not when using a sharp drill in a dremel), it splits when you try to force a 1.55 mm pin in a 1.5 mm hole..... I didn't drill many rails, but for me the following, rather lowtech solution worked: take the piece of wood, mark the positions of the pins (using a needle, and along a ruler to get the holes on a straight line, evenly spaced. Drill 'pilot holes' using a .5 mm dril (by hand, why not?) and drill again using a 1,5 mm drill btw: you could also stop at the .5 mm, as these are probably more in scale. You can use .5 steel wire to make your pins (using while glue to form the head). His will help you to make strong, thing and long enough pins. I think (but am not sure) that Edt shows this inhis Yong America build log) Jan
  22. According to wiki: build as an 18 gun, three masted privateer in 1757 by the french . refitted/reclassed as mortar-vessel twice in her career. Jan
  23. I didn't realize that the whole back-end of the car would turn in mahogany, I thought it would be the upper side only. And with respect to the wheels: as the respoked ones are so much better than the originals, I don't beleive you when you say you are never goibng to do that again. You will be doing it, as it is worth the time and nasty words. Jan
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