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amateur

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  1. amateur
    We dont use 1cent pieces on this side of the border, so igot myself a tictac to get the dimensions right.... It's becoming frightening.... Jan
  2. amateur
    I made some starts inthis program, and i gave up. I can'tget the hull in a reasonable form Some others dowo derfull things with it. In the newest book of hoving at Seawatchbooks, there are some ilustrations done with delfship. They look quite hightech Jan
  3. amateur
    We're in for 2 -3 (to be determined) interesting years. Jan
  4. amateur
    The glazing has become somewhat on the dark side.... Jan
  5. amateur
    Time for an update. Did some rigging at the main mast (destroyed the falgpole on the mizzen while doing so....) Situation at the foot of the mast. Discovered that I needed an additional strop around the mast to get the parrels rigged. (the pins are there to prevent the little eyes in the rope from disappearing) Than the parrels of the main yard. My ideal was to get them working, but that didn't turn out possible. So I went just for the looks. Trust me: without the macro it is better And one from the front-end. I redid the crowsfeet: thinner and darker thread. The light one was to prominent. (I even don't know why they rigged this ship with one, I don't think the original had them) No time for rigging in the remainder of the week (month), so don't expect an additional update soon. (But I guess that you didn't expect one at all ) Jan
  6. amateur
    Serious question: the foto's suggest that both hull halves are not attached to the interior, or is it just one half that is notattached? Jan
  7. amateur
    Hi, It also depends very much on the scale you are using. I tried glue/paper/thread on my 1:100 Prins Willem, and decided that pencil was fine enough with me. From a distance you don't see the lines, from nearby you do. But it is a matter of taste, some people show the treenailing using copper wire, others don;t use it at all. Both groups think they did the right thing. Jan
  8. amateur
    Hi Hans, There is a dealers-section in the forum. Perhaps you should consider some advertisement for yourself over there? Can you give the exact dimensions of your lantern? (still looking for some replacements on my Prins Willem) Jan
  9. amateur
    Wow! Make sure you don't sneeze as long as the gunport lids aren't attached to the model Jan
  10. amateur
    You mean as on frayedknotart.com? http://www.frayedknotarts.com/beckets.html Would be interesting to see Dafi splce such rope beckets on this scale. I guess he can, but doubt whether he is willing:) Jan
  11. amateur
    Which isavery wise decision of your admiral. But after all, that is presumably how she got her rank. Jan
  12. amateur
    Dark? They are in the open air Jan
  13. amateur
    Incredible! It looks quite cosy, this way. On the other hand, what when you are in the midst of the atlantic, wind force 8, waves of about 10 meters high. Life must have been absolute hell in there..... What these little diorama's show -apart fom how things were don - is the degree of overcrowding in these ships.... Jan
  14. amateur
    Hello Kees, What a wonderfull model!! Your paintwork is absolutely top quality! Jan
  15. amateur
    Fantastic model of a great ship! And of course a fantastic build log with lots of history, and some fun Hope to see you at Soerabaya! Jan
  16. amateur
    Sorry to hear about your problem. Hope you get back in the saddle soon. Jan
  17. amateur
    The fact that you did not yet installthat front prtal mast, does that mean that you decided to build her in the original eesign, or will thta yellow portal be installed next? Jan
  18. amateur
    Hi Richard, Quite a lot of this is already in the book you have on order (start/endpoint of lines) The only thinkg Peterson does not go into is the size of the line (ie thickness/diameter) and the corresponding size of the blocks (thicker line means larger block) And I discovered that at small scales suggestion is as good (or even better) than following actual practice: you will presumably not be able to do it exactly as in the real world. (OK, there are some exceptions around on this site). The same applies to order: standing before running, but apart from that, it's the endresult that counts, and no-one will ever know in which order you knotted the whole thing together. (btw I did this ony twice, and am still not finished with the second one, so I'm not a real expert ) Jan
  19. amateur
    Wow! Jan
  20. amateur
    Hi Piet, Wonderfull build it has become. Something to be proud of! I still am amazed at the level of detail you add to the boat! (although I'm not sure on the logo of the Heineken, it looks like the modern one to me, but I'm not a beer-expert.) But for someone coming from Rotterdam-area, should'n't it be Oranjeboom? Jan
  21. amateur
    Don't tell the kids, but dirt can be very usefull
  22. amateur
    So will I. make sur eyou have enough thickness in your frames in the forward part: they need quite a lot of fairi g inthe bowsection. Scale 1:36, that will make a lenght of slightly under 90 cm over all? Jan
  23. amateur
    That's a surrise, I would have thought that all superstructure and railing was always painted White. don'tknow where I got that idea, but now it's proven wrong Great looking ship she is. Jan
  24. amateur
    btw the PInas has three or four dropplanks, all lying next to each other: the lower 6 or seven strakes go from stern to stern, the upper three do, and everything in between is a dropplank, either up front, or at the back. That PInas-ship in Den Helder shows a lot of planking features that are 'against the rules' (Do you have access to 'segelschiffsmodellbau.com'? There is a nice number of pictures of that PInas-wreck in Den Helder on that forum. like the one below) Unfortunatedly, the ship is in a large glass box, so almost all pics have heave reflections of the surroundings Jan
  25. amateur
    I mean this: (sorry, best pic I could find). Quite a lot of the planks end butting against the lower wale.

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