amateur
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Everything posted by amateur
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Thanks, same toyou! Jan
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I'm in the same group as popeye: untill now i did not realize that you would stop after setting up the lower masts. But, in fact, it helps setting your model even further apart from all those out of the box stuff. I've said itbefore:this one is amongst the best Wasa models i've seen ( if not: the best) Jan
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Some people are real delfship wizards. I've seen someone doing a dutch pinace, modelling and drafting all separate components of tehe ship. I still don't manage to get a simple hull done..... Jan
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Tyne or Clyde built steel barque. First guess: Glenlee Jan
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At least, I had her country of origin and date correct
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I think it isso ething like a steam screw sloop/corvette of the royal navy, somewhere around 1880 Jan
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Hi everyone, I did some work over teh last days. I reshaped one of my anchors (Still not perfect, perhhaps I'll need to build one myself). The problem is that it is to short, and too wide for the timeperiod. (and Corels casting is lousy) I did some rigging on the foremast: Problem is: miniature-rope does not quite behave like the real stuff. It allways curves in the wrong direction. That's particularly annoying at the topmasts... This is 0.15 mm Amati rope, it has been stretched, moisted, and waxed, and still...Problem is that the yard is so light, that it will not counterbalance the force of his springy rope... I made some addiotional holes in the fore-tope to get the ropes down to the deck. A bit fiddly work, but I managed. (some of my ratlines worked themselves loose in the proces of rigging , That's a problem I still haven't solved) In the meantime: on to the next ropes.... (same mast, other side of the ship) Jan
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- corel
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Yup, that's him. The first, last, one and only whaler we had in the last century. Jan
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The same to you!
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Looks great. One question though: I see that your rudder sits quite high compared to the bottom of the keel. Danny's rudder has its bottom side flush with the keel. Is that why number 5 went out of sight? Jan
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possibly, yes Jan
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Interesting idea! Btw: does your admiral alrady realize that therewillbe enough to do two half-hulls from a full-hull kit? Jan
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Not much time to find a new one. I post an old one from MSW-1 (But I'm presumable the only one to remember) Jan
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I'll post something tomorrowmorning. .
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Uss Choctaw, 1864, perhaps?
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A cloathing pin in a vice does the trick for me. Put the rope around the block, and put in the pin, such that the rope is held in place. Tie theknot, put someglue onit, and you're ready for the next. It even works with blocks that are smaller. Jan
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HMS Leopard by gobi71 - 1/300 scale
amateur replied to gobi71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
And i repeat that: WOW!!! How did uou get those strops around the deadeyes so neatly formed? Jan -
On a dutch forumsomeone has been experimenti g with this method. It took himsome time to get it right. Planking always runsfair, however, getting your hullinto shape is not without problems. Shell first was not used anymore in the lqte 17th century when ships like utrecht were build. By that time the shipwrights used drawings and plans to be able todeliver what was actually ordered. Jan
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De beste wensen voor 2015! Jan
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My guess would be that thickness is completely determined by the carpenter, while length and width are determined by the tree. therefore, i think the deck was quite even in this respect. At least, that is what you see in eg wasa. Jan
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
amateur replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Nice! How did you het those colours so nice? They are not just out of the can revell-colours, it looks as if you did some aging and weathering on them. Jan- 881 replies
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Hello wayne, Probably on a site of torpedo-casualties.... Or perhaps a wrecksite, quite a lot of english ships around there... Jan
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Some time around wwI, I guess.... Jan
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Typo? a bowsprit of 2 milimeter is a bit short. I guess that should be something like 645 mm? Jan
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