amateur
-
Posts
3,441 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by amateur
-
In Dutch shipbuilding, the answer usually tends towards: 'we always did it this way'. Alternatively: 'we know the other alternative is better, but this is cheaper.' btw. I don't know whether or not the dinghy was wooden build. It could have been steel. Jan
-
IJN Fuso (Halinski) Card Model Review by Captain Slog
amateur replied to Captain Slog's topic in Card and Paper Models
In that case, we will look forward to your tictacs Jan -
IJN Fuso (Halinski) Card Model Review by Captain Slog
amateur replied to Captain Slog's topic in Card and Paper Models
On msw1 we also had a guy called martanek (also czech, i think) he did these large card models of battleships. Absolutely stunningdetail. He is still somewhere around in the internet, but unfortunatedly, not amongst us.... Jan -
It took me a few moments to realize that your new signature-picture is not the original..... Jan
-
Batavia by *Hans* - FINISHED
amateur replied to *Hans*'s topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
No you can't give likes to yourslef, you need us to do so. Jan -
next will presumably be destruction, of some part hitherto unknown Give him a decade or so, and his lower deck will be better than the original. Jan
-
The rigging of the stay with two deadeyes is like the Dutch way of rigging a (secondary) stay on smaller ships. (pic of the reconstructed statenjacht Utrecht)
- 1,048 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Yes and no: I had my ratlines at -on average - 4 mm apart (at 1:100) scale. I changed it to 3.5 mm (again, on average), just because it looked better. Your eye picks up tenth's of milimeters, especially in the case of ratlines, as larger spacing results in fewer ratlines. So the question between 11" and 15" is not just an academic question. Jan
-
Oh wait, of course not: you have to add all the gunport tackles before going to the next level Jan
-
I see. Sounds reasonable. What's you planning? More destruction on the lower deck, or fixing the beams, and start working at a higher level? (btw, the diners: will they get some colour?) Jan
-
At least, there is one book less to be bought this year.... http://www.conwaypublishing.com/?p=7177 Jan
-
Congratulations,( again ) Do you have pics of Montanes? Jan
-
You're getting predictable btw is that an ill fitting seam, on the quarter gallery? Jan
-
Did you already made the little clamps to prevent the woolings to slide down the bowspeit? Jan
-
Most of the lines for the spritsail were guided towards the more reacheable parts of the ship. Most of the times there was a line fromthe top to the forestay, as a kind of railing. Btw furling the mainsail high above the deckwasn't funeither, I guess... Jan
-
Still on the heavy side, but better. Jan
-
No, he does not laminat ethe frames. He glues two pieces of wood together to fabricate a double frame. Jan
-
Sorry, I meant that he uses not one single piece of wood for the larger frames, but three smaller strips, so that the direction of the grain is parallel to the futtocks. Jan
-
second thought: is that perhaps the reason that Reed uses compound blanks for hislarger frames? (he claims that it is for minimizing on the amount of wood needed, but.....) Jan
-
McNarry is stacking thin slices of boxwood to each other to a sloid hull. Next he carves the hull from the block. Soon as the hull is 'perfect' the slices are taken apart, there inside is removed, and parts of it are removed in total, to get the timbers/futtocks-effect. The same method (with a small twist) is used by Reed. He remarkes that it depends on the quality of your wood to get crisp results. Boxwood is the way to go he writes..... Jan
-
I guess you were pretty pleased with yourself yesterday Jan.
Our Emblem ®
