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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Woodenkit is the worst. They have no original products at all. They even pirated from me. I have contacted them many times and received very nasty profane responses. They were horrible people and still copy stuff to this day. They even use my photos on their site to sell the designs they stole from me at syren.
  2. Then vote as you like based on your experience. That is what the poll is about. Based on your experiences select the MFG you are familiar with. Everyone who voted the way they did were not lying. This is what they believed and it was their opinion and just because it doesnt match yours you can not disregard them. Just vote for what you believe!!!! I just dont understand these people who dont believe the results........they are honest and true. You dont have to agree with it. To say it is untrue is just plain idiotic!!!! Model shipways uses both plywood and basswood for the bulkheads depending on the model....also they DO NOT use boxwood, They use basswood for planking which is the same as limewood. You are just wrong about that....sorry. Chuck
  3. Really nice choice Toni. I actually considered this as a subject for a kit but saw too many differences between the model and the drafts I found. I even questioned whether the model is properly identified so i decided against it. But like you I fell in love with the model. You are off to a great start. Chuck
  4. Well that is a great start. The stem assembly looks fantastic. Well done getting such tight joints.
  5. Yes, I use an elmers glue stick. The same type of glue that children use. It has served me well without any issues at all. I believe I may have mentioned this in the instructions I wrote. Chuck
  6. Greg Thats probably the way i will go. But at least now everyone can see both variations and choose for themselves. looking forward to some GUMBO!!!!
  7. Hoping to try everything before deciding. Here is the dark roof again but I made it much lighter. I also painted the top blue to match the frieze which is like the minerva model. Now I cant make up my mind. I like them both. I will study these photos and make a decision with your help. Always a lot of fun right....I do appreciate the help and your thoughts on this.
  8. But then they would need to be painted. Most folks find that hard to do neatly and with a decent color. Everybody can sand!!!!! You cant beat the look of natural wood vs. painting whenever possible in my opinion. I would love to hear some more opinions on this... Chuck
  9. Minerva is one of my favorite models. It always serves to inspire me. Here is my version (a little hesitant to place my wok against such a masterful contemporary model) of the shingled roof left natural. I kind of prefer the natural look. But I will sleep on it a bit. What do you guys think. I think the dark roof is too "in your face". But I could be wrong. Note how thin the shingles are sanded after each row is completed. These are boxwood shingles.
  10. Just one note as while working on the friezes I have several photos of Minerva out for inspiration. Its one of the reason I have decided to go with a lighter toned frieze. The Cedar is light and anything darker would be too much. But I wanted to point out a few things. Note the unpainted roof shingles of the quarter galleries.... Note the painted interior of the qgalleries...I dont like that its a weird color. But I will be making a second roof as a test with the top painted the same blue as the frieze while leaving the shingles natural. There are plenty of choices out there and looking at the way contemporary builders did this is great for inspiration. The Minerva model in the Naval Academy is much more refined and built with more expertise than the Winnie contemporary model. The Winnie model is a bit crude in its details by comparison. So examining both makes for good study!! Also note how you can see that the contemporary builder painted his frieze on paper and glued it on the model. There is a bit of lifting in one of the images I posted.
  11. The reason why I havent just completed the quarter gallery is simple. I want to make a nice clean edge between the quarter gallery roof, rail and the painted frieze. This means the frieze along the hull needs to go on first. I am still testing and tweaking that. But first...the 3/32" wide fancy molding must be scraped and glued on the hull. This will be our guide for the friezes. I am just talking about the middle molding. Once glued in position, you will be able to sit the frieze on top of it as shown. The thinner frieze can be butt against it along the bottom as well. Then to finish it off the you will be able to use the friezes as a guide to place the remaining molding in position. This is the next step for me. Once this is completed I will then get back to finishing the fancy rail on the roof of the quarter gallery. Once this is done on both sides of the hull, I will then start finishing the stern transom with all of the carvings and columns. When that is all done it will complete chapter three. But there is a lot of work involved with all this stuff so it will take several weeks at least. I have stop work this weekend though because I am leaving for New Orleans yet again!!! Second attempt at some fun and relaxation. Here is a look at the testing so far!!! The friezes are not glued on yet as I am still tweaking them. They are just resting on the molding.
  12. You could paint the interior but i rather like just leaving it natural wood. The interior on the contemporary model is just left natural although the paneled walls that sep the cabins are painted off white. Yes i added facilities in both galleries.
  13. Yes I agree, I dont think that would work or even look good. I just spray it with some fixative and it looks good to me. If you wanted to, you could always use it as a paint by numbers sort of thing and just paint on top of the printed frieze. But I think the printout looks better than anything I have seen short of just painting it from scratch. I did finish the roof today... The roof is laser cut and 1/4" thick. It has a laser etched reference line to show you where to bevel it to the "sloped" shape needed. Then I used some laser cut shingles and added them to the roof. Three rows as is typical. After each row starting with the bottom, I sanded the shingles very thin....paper thin almost. The tops were sanded flush with the roof to accept the next row. Then I repeated it....until completed. There are marks on each shingle to help you position the second and third rows. Then the roof and tiles was painted black. But the tiles are more of a dark slate gray. So I weathered them a bit so it wasnt a stark black. Then I added a thin molding on top as you can see. This is also laser cut but it also needs to be sanded thinner. 1/32" is too thick. I sanded it to about 1/64" thick. At this stage I still havent glued the shingled roof in position. So resist the urge. Before finishing up this quarter gallery I want to now start on the one on the port side. Once that is completed up to this stage I will finish the both of them. The fancy rail along the roof still needs to be added. But that is better done after the friezes are glued to the sides of the hull. So I have to finish those up first. And finally some inspiration and reference which you can compare to my interpretation. Although I used the draft to correct any differences with the contemporary model. Chuck
  14. Very nice...its looking good Doug!! One thing however...the stern post shouldnt be added at this time. That is glued on after the planking is completed. Planking will be much more difficult with it in the way.
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