Chuck

Yes it is a soft wood. You need to be careful and treat it like you would basswood. Although it leaves a real sharp edge and doesnt get fuzzy. The end grain also doesnt darken much when you apply a finish. You just need to be careful and cut your nails. Chuck

Chris....its a wonderful model. I wish you the best of luck. Congrats on getting out of the gate running. I am sure this will be a very popular kit and we will soon see many of them being built on MSW. Chuck

simply beautiful work....well done. Great display.

Wonderful work. That carving looks very good indeed.

Looking really good!!!

Thanks Jim....It was a pleasure and loads of fun. I dont know how I missed your post sorry for the delay in responding. I am cutting new barge kits right now.....then longboat masting packages....then a bunch of serving machines and ropewalks.... After those are all done I will start another batch of longboat kits. I just have resock everything else first. Chuck

Just to let you folks know!!!! I have just laser cut a bunch more of these carving blanks and they are ready for purchase. So if anyone hasnt yet joined this group and would like to try out some carving as an introduction......click the link below. Carving Blanks click here!!!

Really nice work......what a charming diorama!!!

Grant Welcome yo the group......I am so happy you are having fun with the project. Nicely done joints. And yes, Its so important to keep your area clean and your hands too. It keeps the cedar looking vlean and crisp. Enjoy the kit!!

Wonderful work. This should look lovely in Cherry.

Hard to say really. Would be easier to answer if you posted a picture. Chuck

Oh jeez I really dont remember. Model Expo provided a pair of pedestals and I just used them. I cant remember what size they were. I will have plenty of blocks and rope though. Chuck

It looks very good so far. No need to rush it. It will get finished eventually. I will see you saturday. I am bringing my barge to display.....

Beautifully done. It looks fantastic unrigged. Maybe add a small jolly boat or cutter with the display which would be very interesting on the unrigged version. I do hope you enjoyed building her!!! I thought she was a delight to build.

That looks fantastic....nicely done.

Thanks for saying... For those who asked, here is a non blurry photo of the figurehead. It was getting dirty do to handling with dirty fingers. So I cleaned it up and applied a coat of sanding sealer. It looks really good in person but is surprisingly hard to photograph in focus. The color matches the stem quite well and its still hard to believe this was carved by machine. I didnt use wipe on poly because I dont want it to darken too much. The stem where it sits will be painted black eventually. Compare with the contemporary model. You can see how crude it was carved, I dare say that Jack did an excellent job improving its appearance. Actually the knee is painted blue and black below it. I am not sure if I will do the same. I may just go with black. Note the headrails. They are not carved. Instead there are friezes painted on them. That will be an interesting detail to replicate. Chuck

Thank you very much!!! And happy Easter!!! I didnt feel like actually working today so I finished the starter package. The last items to be completed were the bollard timbers. Just like most projects, there is at least one item that will prove very tricky and challenging. The bollard timbers arent too bad though. They are similar in difficulty to making those "bolsters" at the bow of the longboat. Every model has at least one or two complex parts to shape. Its not unusual but most kits usually drop the ball on how these items are presented. I believe its just a matter of breaking the process down into many steps ahead of time so mentally it becomes a lot easier. Each individual step is not very difficult and once completed, you have shaped a very complex piece of modeling. The bollard timbers at the bow are laser cut as blanks. You need to make a pair of these that match as mirror images. In the center, a chock spans the gap between them. Here are the blanks which are 1/4" thick. Before you begin, it is important to fair the inboard side of the hull. The bulwarks and stem need to be reduced to 1/8" thick. You dont have to fair the entire hull inboard....just up towards the bow. Its easier to shape the bollards after fairing and having the bulwarks thinned down. Then place the bollard timber in position so the inside edge sits flush with the rabbet as shown. But make sure you sand all of the laser char off first. This will help keep the piece clean as you shape it. In fact your hands should be washed and super clean once you get the char off. You will be handling these pieces a lot and they will get dirty otherwise. This piece will stand proud of the bulwark framing so that the exterior planking will be level/flush with it. Therefore, you must create a bevel on the front and back sides. Once placed in position, use a 3/64" thick plank that has been beveled (just like you would when planking) and position it along the bollard. Then draw a line down the edge which will determine the bevel needed. This needs to be done inboard as well. Note the bollard timber on the port side is already completed. I will attempt to make a mating pair. There is a very detailed drawing on the plans for these parts. The photo below shows the bevel completed on both sides.....note the finished example which I keep handy so I can make a matching pair. Next, file the round cut-out that forms the top using a round needle file, sandpaper etc. You can use the shape created by the laser on the other two sides to guide you. Then draw a line just below the where you filed. Do this on all four sides. You will be filing a groove all around the piece. I actually used a #11 blade to make a stop-cut on the line. Then I chiseled a bit off towards the line on the top side. I then rounded it off so it looks like the plan. This is what it looks like completed. But you will also notice that I cut a little skewed square from a 1/64" thick strip. Its very thin but still not thin enough. This should be glued on top of the bollard timber to "simulate" a nice carved detail. This detail would be much harder to carve and file into the top so I cheated and glued a separate piece on top. After I glued in position, I sanded it even thinner to about half its original thickness. This is what it looks like....below...but we are not done yet!!! The circular slot for the bowsprit still need to be filed on an angle to match the stem. You can position the bollard on the model and draw a line to follow when you start filing. This is shown below. Once that is completed the bollard timbers are finished. They can be glued on the model and then the cross chock positioned between them. Sand the char off before you do this. You will also need to sand the same angle into the bottom of the chock so the circular opening will accommodate the bowsprit. The photo shows this all done and the chock glued into position. It was sanded flush with the bollard timbers inboard and out. Remember that I am making this model out of Yellow Cedar. You can see how well it holds an edge with these tricky timbers. No finish has been applied yet. But the softness of the cedar made it very enjoyable and easy to sand, file and carve.

Just beautiful!!! 😃

Thank you very much. It will be a while yet. I dont want to release the starter package until I am well ahead of folks. Not until at least the planking is completed. I did however finalize the starter package parts and I will probably start laser cuttinf them next month. I just want to start stockpiling them for the eventual release. But yes it will be a first come first serve sort of thing.

Thats because you need to upload bigger pictures.... Seriously though, very nice work. Making some great progress there.

At 1/4" scale the hull will be 38" unrigged. Its a big model and you will be able to show some great detail. Chuck

When I get the outboard planking completed I will start selling the starter kits. I want to get ahead of everyone so nobody has to wait for the next installment....I have no idea when I will finish planking but I will start planking the first week of May.

My head hurts just reading through that stuff. I am probably just going to stick with sanding sealer or wipe on poly!!! 😁

Thank you guys. I finished the quarter gallery framing....I will skip the details on this here. I also added the laser cut hance pieces. Except for the bollard timbers at the bow, all of the framing is completed. The bollard timbers are tricky so I will wait until I get back from the joint clubs show next week to make those. Once they are done it will be time to start planking. Here is what the framing looks like completed....basically this represents all the parts for the starter package including the bollards that I will make next week. Chuck

Really looking good!!!