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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Im tending to agree with you and it could always be one of those things that anyone could add on their own and make their model more unique. I think the barge on spare topmasts may be enough.
  2. Thanks guys...I am having a struggle with deciding how much else to add in the waist. Should I add boarding stanchions or the skid beam crutches? They might look out of place. I was planning on mounting the barge on two spare topmasts and it may look odd with empty skid beam crutches. It may look even more odd with the skid beams and too busy. I am not sure how to proceed but will skip ahead to the chapter12 and start work on the stern lantern next. I dont like adding stuff just for the sake of adding it. Especially if it makes the model look over crowded and too busy. The contemporary model is so clean without them. In fact it doesnt even show the gangboards. We shall see. If I follow Amazon it will get so busy with hammock cranes and all the stanchions. Might be tricky adding the cranes along the qdeck caprail now that the rail is completed as well. The ships barge may be plenty enough on those spare topmasts.
  3. That looks very nice...now the fun part!!! Will you be carving from cherry as well? Chuck
  4. Yes that was stolen from an older set of plans...published in Europe in the 80's and is no way original at all. In fact the kit you have is a rip off of a rip off. Sad to say. They took the plans which were made for model builders and copied them 100% . All parts are identical. The Chinese routinely seek out plans from books and such and just duplicate the parts. It doesnt have to be kit that was copied. In fact I am well aware right now of several pirated versions from plans developed and published in Seawatch books or Ancre books. The pirates favorite sources. Chuck
  5. Lovely model. That is a wonderful cross section Toni.
  6. Welcome to the forum....There are several excellent beginner kits out there on the market. That is certainly not one of them and you have made your experience more difficult. In fact I sadly must tell you that the model you are building is from a Chinese MFG that pirates kits from other manufacturers and plans. That is why they are so terrible. Sadly we prohibit kits made by these Chinese manufacturers so you will not be able to start a build log here. Unfortunately too many newcomers to the hobby are unaware of such unscrupulous and unethical companies who produce these terrible copies. We do have a list of such companies to avoid, I encourage you to read through this topic. Possibly you should look to find a better kit made by one of our sponsors or other legitimate companies as your hobby experience will be so much better. Please read through this topic which will explain everything.
  7. LOL…its another figure that Larry painted for me a while ago. I just happened to place it on the model and it fit perfectly. It is marvelously painted. I will leave it for the show next weekend but ask Larry to maybe paint me a more appropriate one for the model. I have the waist details next which will complete chapter 11. Then its time to add the lantern and headrails to finish up the hull. Thats it!!
  8. The swivel stocks are made from a 5/32" x 532" strip. Their lengths are all different and should be taken from the plans. They will be sanded or files on all for corners to make them 8 sided. BUT....not where they sit against the hull. Here you leave that prtion flat on the entire side. You can see one pair of swivel stocks below. One is dressed and the other undressed. Not the flat side. Measure on you model the length of the flat portion to fit against the hull. From the top of the shear down. The bottom was rounded off as well. The hole in the top was made with a #65 bit for the swivel guns and a thin band of black tape wrapped around the very top. You have to do a lot of measuring from your model to determine the end of the black and the frieze allowing for a natural area to match where the molding is. Just take your time measuring and marking. The friezes were applied as usual after printing them on tissue paper. They were applied with a glue stick and I did my best to match the pattern but it isnt that critical. Some photos showing the stocks installed. I notched away the molding and overhang of the shear to accommodate them. I also did my best to make sure they were vertical but also matching the angles of the rails. They will follow the shape of the hull as well and lean a bit to match the curvature of the hull. The aft-most swivel stock also angles against the forward side of the transom. This makes it look a bit odd depending on the angle but the original drat shows it this way rather than vertical like the other stocks.
  9. They are basically the same or at least they will be on my model. The weathering powder wears off and dust gets on them and it all evens out.
  10. More dealers choice....swivel stocks On the contemporary model there are two swivel stocks on each side of the fcastle. On the original draft there is only one. Only the stock forward of the shrouds is shown. Its up to you really. I am going to omit this swivel stock aft of the shrouds because it is not shown on the original draft. I also think it hurts the graceful flow of the rail into the waist. But its up to you. In addition, the contemporary model does not show the aft-most swivel stock along the qdeck. But it is shown on the draft making it 3 per side. I am just pointing out some discrepancies in case any of you notice it. It would be fine to show all ten swivel stocks that I show on our model plans and the two on the bollard timberheads. But if you agree that the second pair on the fcastle would be visually problematic, you can omit them too. And also, the stocks on Amazon are completely round. Those on the Winnie Contemporary model are six sided. BUT...for me it is much easier to take a 5/32" x 5/32" strip and make it 8 sided by sanding the corners. I follow the 7-10-7 formula for doing so. Although its easy enough if you are careful to just free hand it. Omitting that one pair of stocks on the fcastle also follows the arrangement shown on the Amazon and some other contemporary models. Below. As I have mentioned, the Amazon is one of my inspiration examples while working on the project. I believe you can see the similarities between it and our project.
  11. This is simply not true. At least not in the USA. All commercial products must be mailed and shipped at the parcel price. The USPS will not allow any product to be shipped by a known commercial seller just an an envelope. I know first hand because I have tried. Many dont know this and the seller would face stiff penalties and or refusal to ship from the Post Office if caught. Sorry but you are just wrong. One reason is that any stiff items will jam the new sorting machines. Only envelopes can be put in them and they bend through the machine rollers. When you put anything hard or metal in the envelopes it jams the machines and believe me you hear about it if you are a commercial shipper. Parcels are NOT put through sorting machines like the envelopes are...or they are put through different ones not likely to jam. In the US the cheapest parcel rate for commercial shipping is around $5.50 Up to 8 oz. If its going international it varies...but you are looking at $14 - $22. The cheaper number is basically just Canada. I have had angry emails that shipping 1package of large triple blocks which cost $6 when sent to Europe would cost $22 to ship. I get called a crook all the time. But folks are just so wrong and have no idea how it works for a small business. No way around this unless you are Amazon and get a huge break from the post office. Small guys have to pay full rate every time. So any of you guys in the US that get angry about not using a first class stamp to mail a few packages of blocks or rope....or "brass pins", please understand that this is not 1950....you cant do that any more. Now if that guy is charging $16 to ship within the same country like the USA he is absolutely ripping you off. But $7 - $10 is pretty standard to cover packaging etc. Unless you are Jeff Bezos.
  12. Thats interesting but I am following a few other contemporary models. They have them all set out. Amazon in particular is the model I am using for swivel gun replication. She had twelve according to records so why not just show them all. I have them all made anyway.
  13. They are available in brass but you wont be able to drill the hole in the arse end to easily for the handle. The brass ones are in my store and are available as just the barrels with trunnion pin. They are 13/16” long. You would have to make your own bracket and figure something else out for the handle though. the resin is easy to drill. The resin version is actually cast from the brass barrel which was used as the master. They are identical in shape and size.
  14. Swivels... The swivels are cast in resin as you can see above. They come on a spru. You need to cut them free with a flush cutter and sand off the nubs. These are not drilled for the trunnion. You need to drill them thru with a #65 drill bit. That is the perfect size. You also need to use the same bit to drill a hole into the back end below the button. This is for the handle. The handle and yoke ....or bracket, is laser cut out of acrylic. Just glue the handle into the hole in the back end you drilled. Hopefully it was centered with the trunnion holes and below the button. The bracket is easily added. Slide the muzzle end into the space of the bracket until its lined up with the trunnion holes. Then gently pull the bracket down so the fork start spreading apart. It will flex and snap right into the trunnion holes you drilled....that is if you used a #65 bit. The small disc you see in the photo is for the tops of the swivel mount. You will add the disc on top before inserting the bracket into a hole you drilled in the wooden mount. These are quite tiny and hard to photograph....here are the swivels assembled and weathered. I sprayed them with matt fixative or dull coat first and then applied some weathering powder. I didnt make the swivel mounts for the side of the hull yet. But there are also two swivels up front on the bollard timbers. I drilled the #65 hole in the top of the timberheads. Then I added the acrylic disc...no glue needed. Just position it and slide the swivel into the hole locking the disc in place. These will be sold in packages of six resin swivel guns along with the laser cut parts for the bracket and handle and discs. Now to make those swivel mounts for the remaining ten.
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