michael mott
-
Posts
5,192 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by michael mott
-
The .024" plastic coated Beadalon 49 strand wire works well. This is with the boom hanging loose and no extra tension, I need to get some smaller diameter black heat shrink. and make the loops bigger but I am happy with the way it is hanging. Also I need to reverse the inside chock. I think I will also make a small saddle for the wire to attach to the block rather than just the shackle. Michael
-
Ilhan, wonderful execution of the Anchors, very clean workmanship. Michael
-
Hi Bob We must have been cross posting, I am going to see what I can do with the smaller beading wire cable first. Michael
-
Popeye, and Druxey. I did put a little tension on the gaff to see what effect that would have and I was concerned that the combined weight of the sail and boom even with some tension would not be enough to overcome the stiffness of the wire which is .047 which in 1:8 scale is 3/8th an inch which seems a little heavy anyway. if I use the .024" wire it is a little over 3/16th in scale. so I will see how that looks. Michael
-
I also agree with Crackers, and Anthony, carry on with the model you are working on and when you get stuck because the tool you need is not in the family go and get it, be it a file or a jewelers saw a pair of fine needle-nosed pliers, whatever it might be. It is a better way in my humble opinion, than just going spending. Michael
-
Akutansin, Elmir, thanks for your kind words. I have been chipping away at the gaff, literally using the shrink tubing i made a wire strop for the gaff and was pleased with my stops set into the gaff they are boxwood And now I know that the drawing in John Leathers book was correct and that the chock stops face the same direction The wire is too stiff though so I need either thinner softer wire or I will use rope, I prefer the wire so will look at what options there are for that. I did haul up the gaff using the blocks it was fun threading the halliards, I did a quick and dirty job of tying the halliards with hitches, I keep running out of shackles and blocks! and I take my hat off to all you folk building and rigging fully rigged three masters, that would send me to the loony bin. It is interesting thinking about the different types of blocks needed for the rigging to function properly though. The thing I need to address now is some cleats and belaying pins. Earlier in the day I was working on the other boat. Michael
-
Me too. Michael
-
Carlos thank you for posting those two pictures they are very informative. I am not on Facebook, and have no intention of getting on it either. I do have email and I do enjoy this forum and have a photobucket page. Regards Michael
-
She certainly has that old world charm about her Bob. Michael
-
Carlos thanks for your comment. In John Leather's book he mentions the copper plate and said that it also was a cause of problems on the mast and that sometimes it caused some rot under it. Michael
-
Welcome Darryl, Wow! very nice I love the chairs as well. Michael
-
Andy thanks for the confirmation, I was looking at a sketch in John Leathers book The Gaff Rig. Michael
-
Mark thanks for your comment, Bob I am thinking of only covering the inside curve that could chaff on the mast, so instead of stitching the leather like a glove I am thinking of glue with a row of tiny tacks along the top and bottom edges. more like this Michael
-
The framing looks great so far Alan. Michael
-
Beautiful model Chuck, I could see myself making one at 1 1/2 inch scale, after I get a couple of other projects finished. Michael
- 49 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- pinnace
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi Paul checking in, the small launches are going to little gems in themselves. Michael
-
Elmir the work you have done so far looks terrific. Michael
-
Jay thanks for stopping by and your kind words, yes the weather is being a little inclement at the moment more than the rain on Maria it is rather cool at the moment it was only 16 degrees Celsius yesterday, and is going down to 8 degrees Celsius tonight. After spending a good chunk of yesterday afternoon cleaning and tidying up the shop, I did a little work on the gaff. I made the metal hanger for attaching the Halliard and down-haul it is 1/16th by 1/4 inch brass, also ground a tool for making some beads out of a short dowel of Lignum Vitea The dowel was turned on the lathe from some square stock. that I cut off the billet I have had for perhaps 20 years at least. The rope holding the parrel beads is made from Gutterman black cotton. The beads are a scale 1 1/2" in diameter. I still have to make the slide block it will fit in the 3/16 slot. once I have made the slide I will go back and finish the leather for the jaws. Michael
-
Nils Thank you for stopping by, and your kind words. Yesterday I purchased the paint for the hull, it will be a dark blue green colour, I will be mixing a midnight blue with a forest green to obtain the colour I am looking for. When we get a dry spell, (it seems to be raining every day for the last two months) I will take the hull out side and spray the paint on the hull. Michael
-
Welcome to my world Randy. Interesting method on the hooks. If I might be so bold perhaps if you used a thicker piece of copper wire and tapered the hook end with a file, and annealed and flattened the thick end you could eliminate the soldering, and get a nice taper toward the hook. It is just a suggestion to try , I am not trying to tell you how to build your model, which is looking great. Michael
-
I see that you are seizing the moment I am glad that things are working well, Oh and I deposited the million dollars, thanks it will make retirement just that bit easier. Michael
-
Just checking in the ship looks great, The pictures of the attaching methods for the block were interesting, how will you colour the silver wire? Michael
-
Bob 6 x .045 is even more .270 Michael
Our Emblem ®
