michael mott
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Everything posted by michael mott
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John the mast hoops and the top fittings look great, the light at the end of the build must be more than just a glimmer now. Michael -
Russ, Germanus, Carl, John. thanks for your thoughts, and information. Here is a correction, and this is just to get a sense of what I am dealing with. Michael
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Carl, bob, John, Thanks for looking in. Carl you mentioned a contrast in colour, I thought there was already quite a contrast. Russ, Thanks for the heads up, These are not actually attached to anything at the moment Just looking at the overall proportions. I am going to use some black thread to make the shrouds I think I will be able to make the length just long enough without lengthening the rope walk. Michael
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Druxey ,Mark, Bob, and Kevin, thank you so muck for those kind words. I used the same slit chuck to drill the holes in the deadeyes. by adding the hose clamp it worked to hold the deadeye. and rotated on the 1/4 inch dowel held in the mill vice. I like to use a centre drill for the wood sometimes especially since the holes were close to the curved part of the deadeye. After threading the rope through the deadeyes they look to be OK proportion wise. Now I just have to finish the rest of them. Michael
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Daniel, looking forward to the rework. Michael
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Matt the sails look great!!! .... I cannot see the stitching am I missing something? Michael
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Great to revisit I still think that is a giant dog. Michael
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Great stuff Popeye, All the little details make the setup all the more lifelike. I too wonder about the starfish, don't those critters move at a snails pace? Michael
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Sarah this looks very interesting, I shall be following along. my wife keeps asking about getting a full size one.....for the lake. Michael
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Buck that french polishing looks rather splendid, want to come and do my grand piano! just kidding I don't have one. It is great to see some traditiona finishing methods being used amid all the new polyurethane type finishes. Michael
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Sherry absolutely beautiful work on fitting together those stem pieces, Shows what one can do with simple tools. The jewelers saw is one of my favorites and it is really just a smaller version of the coping saw. The older scroll saw looks like a gem. I'm not sure why scratch building is referred to as the dark side. However since you are here use the force..... Michael
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USF Confederacy by Rustyj - FINISHED
michael mott replied to Rustyj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful workmanship Rusty, I always forget just how small all these parts are. Michael -
Bob thanks for those kind words. here is a link to a one man art show I had a few years ago. http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/library/artshow%20dec%2005?page=1 David Thanks for dropping by. A long time ago I was given a block of Lignum Vitea, it is tough as nails but slippery, due to the oils within the structure of the wood. First I made a dowel Then indexing along I cut the grooves for the shrouds and lower brackets. Then a different form tool to round the edges there is no sanding the finish is just from the tool. Next the blank was cut into smaller blanks with a jewelers. Then a small brass split chuck was made to hold the rough blanks The shaping tool for the face First one I am really impressed with the way this wood turns on the lathe. Now I need to sort out a jig to drill the holes. That rope does look like old hemp rope. Michael
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Ed your attention to detail and correcting errors is a great teaching aid, it is also good to see your comments about files riflers etc. Michael
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Carl, the first chainplate was not actually a chainplate it was just a test on a scrap to sort out how to fold and solder the loop. This is a final shape and now just needs cleaning up a little more. Michael
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I managed to get one of the chainplates roughly shaped today it is mostly tapered with a parallel section below the spacing block. I thought a decorative flourish works for the bottoms. The screws are 1 inch long 4x40 brass machine screw.I need to reshape the head to get rid of the slots. Most of the day was used up collecting some firewood and helping a friend move some steers and Heifers. Michael
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Hello Carl on this page scroll down to see the honeycomb soldering block. they are not that expensive and the honeycomb is great because you cat put rods in to hold and line things up. http://www.silversupplies.com/catalog/new_product/soldering_block.shtml or go to this link http://www.fdjtool.com/Category/965_1/Solder_Blocks.aspx I purchased mine at the local silver smiths supply house in Edmonton. Michael
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Russ, thanks, Silver soldering always feels a bit nerve wracking for me. Popeye, thanks for following along. Mark, thanks for the compliment, regarding the torch, it is an air acetylene one and the tip is a medium size, I have a smaller tip but have misplaced it. My friend the silversmith does use a torch about the same size. John, thanks, that'l teach ya for turning around! Daniel, thanks I think it all has to do with that 10,000 hour rule, I have been doing metal for a long time, and I really enjoy it. Dale, Thanks, I think that some of those models you speak of were probably an influence in my early years when I spent hours in places like the South Kensington Science museum and Greenwich. Getting her in the water is a very motivating goal. The interesting thing about working on this model is that for me it feels more balanced than some of the other projects that I have worked on over the years. There is so much scope for working on different materials and elements from wood to metal and fabric. I am also learning so much by reading all of the wonderful build logs that are shared within this wonderful community of ship and boat builders. I am actually looking forward to working on the sails, and firing up the old treadle sewing machine. Michael
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Thanks, Sherry A test to see how to make the top of the shroud chain plates. the first test was a bit rough. after fretting out the shape on a scrap piece I annealed it then curled the loop with some round nosed pliers the taper could be longer on these pliers. silver soldering The loop is a little too small and I overheated the metal, also I should have closed the loop a little better the joint was not good. Second test with a larger and wider loop ready to solder the small piece if silver solder is wet with the Vigor liquid flux. soldered cleaned up with emery and steel wool Checking the look, I think I will taper the plates down to the wooden standoff rather than have the cut shoulder. Tomorrow I will make the loops on the chainplates. Michael
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Your work is so very clean, it is great to see how you approach each task. michael
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Popeye, Bob, thanks for those kind comments. Matt I think I will keep the RC as simple as possible, there will be a fair bit of sail on her so I will probably set the sails before doing any sailing. We get quite a few light airs here in the summer around 2:30-3:00pm (becalmed at the finish line on the full sized ones enough times) so I think it will be more to make it easier before setting out when there is a little more breeze. Michael
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
michael mott replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Tom, excuse my ignorance but what is a "charlie noble" incidentally "That thing" looks to me like the bucket wheels that were used in Northern Alberta when they started to dig up the Tar sands, they use a different method now. Michael -
Goose-neck Part 2 continuing on this picture does show the roller reefing that inspired my version. the worm was held in place with two retainers that were filed up and bolted with 2x56 round headed machine screws, the shaft through the worm is 1/8th diameter filed square at each end, so the the reefing can happen from either side. The part of the goose neck that is fitted to the mast was inspired by one from Cockwells web site . The first step was to machine up the block to mate to the boom(this needed extensive fining to allow the boom to swing when I mated the two parts together) the top and bottom straps were silver soldered to the block this also annealed the bands. I used this same technique for the base step band. The soldered and formed piece. ready for clean up, .. files, emery paper , steel wool . Final assembly end of roller reefing Michael
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Russ thanks, for those words, I must say when I was about 15 I went to the Round Pond in Kensington Gardens in London and I saw a model of a gaff rigged boat it was a good size and I was smitten by the superb detail on that model, it took me 45 years to get my rear in gear to make a boat similar in type. Michael.
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Tim, Bob, Daniel, Carl, Druxey, thank you very much for taking the time to look in and share your thoughts. Mark, The Mast step was pretty straight forward I annealed the .062 brass wrap around piece first(heat to red then let cool)then folded it around the wood first by using a small clamp to hold the strip evenly in the centre of the strip. once it was u shaped then clamping across the sides and finishing the wrap. The bottom edge was cleaned up on a sheet of 240 emery paper carpet taped down on a flat board of MDF. I then silver soldered the wrapper to the base sheet with the lowest melt temp easy-flo solder ( I forget the temp) The clean up was done with sanding sticks and the hole was slotted by clamping in the mill vice and using a 1/8th 2 flute end mill cut the slots which entailed rotating to do the stern abd port and starboard sides. The relief on the bow or clamping side was fretted out with a jewelers saw. a final clean up with medium steel wool. Here are some step by step pictures of the roller reefing and the goosneck. The roller reefing was inspired by a photo on the web and I cannot remember the site so I cannot show the photo. I had a worm drive in the scrap box and needed to make worm gear to match (loosely) so I stuck the worm into some Milton Bradley mock up clay(auto-body design clay, plasticine would have worked equally well) to see the angle to rotate the vice. I have the mill vice sitting on a 12 inch rotary table on the mill. then using a 30 tooth clock gear out of the scrap box as an index I used a 1/16 end mill to rough cut the teeth. The worm was relieved at each end to leave just a few turns in the centre. The end of the boom was drilled out by using a bushing jig that was turned up on the lathe. Next the goose-neck piece for the boom, this was machined from a 1 inch cube of brass and had a 3/8 drill rod shaft soldered in with soft solder. The section slide into the boom the boom was held to the gear with a piece of brass tube machined down to the right diameter from a 3 inch brass 3/4 inch plumbing nipple. the boom was chiseled to accept the brass tube-like sleeve the gear was attached with brass machine screws. and the boom with #1 wood screws. End of Part 1 Michael
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