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michael mott

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Everything posted by michael mott

  1. Hi Jay this is the sort of blade that I am talking about http://www.wayfairsupply.com/Vermont-American-8-Plywood-Krome-King%AE-Circular-Saw-Blades-25273-25273-IEY1576.html A regular saw sharpener who has the ability to sharpen a wide variety of saw blades should be able to hollow grind the blade, it does not need much. Take the pictures at the top of this thread to the sharpener and explain to him what you are going to do with it. If you take the pictures that I posted he or she will not think you are strange because you want to use the saw differently. The reason that I originally had the blades resharpened this way was because I did a lot of commercial architectural models in Plexiglass and Styrene and this type of grind gave me a good clean cut on both types of plastic. The added advantage with the wood is that you can use a blade like this to make a square rabbet on the edge of a plank.like this The last picture shows some rebates on a salvaged wooden venetian blind which is basswood So the blade has other uses. I hope this helps
  2. Yes Mike you are absolutely right I also use that method sometimes one not only needs a shaving sharp blade but also an adjustable throat opening. I have a box of Mahogany planks The one thing to keep in mind though with this method is that it puts a fair bit of stress into the wood, not so apparent in this photo but more so in the Aspen The mahogany is .011" A shaving off the same billet of Aspen that the sawn slice is from this one is .007" You can notice the stress marks on the Aspen, and the thicker one goes the greater the stress micro fractures. If you know of a way to do this without the stress I would be interested to see how you do it. Michael
  3. Mark yes this is what I have to do I am going to set up a simple way to achieve that so that it is able to be positively incremental, I am working on the design. John yes it is fortunately there are not too many instances where I need the wood quite this thin. Michael
  4. today I finished gluing in the deck treenails. it was a rather long task. A little more work to finish it and on with the deck cabin and cockpit. Michael
  5. For cutting wood here are a few shots of how I cut it This is one of the plywood blades that I use on my 10 inch tablesaw. The blade has no set to the teeth. A test cut to set the thickness. This slice is .027" Use a push stick to feed the wood through the saw. This is the thinnest cut I was able to make with this wood and blade combination. You can see that this wood has been darkened by the blade because it is dull and needs to be sharpened. Using a scraper to clean up the wood in this case the wood is Maple. The scaper is pulled towards me in single smooth strokes. When the scraper is sharp the wood shaves off in fine curls. Here you can see the transition from the burned surface to the scraped one and the small clamp holding the wood to a smooth surface. Make sure that the support surface stays clear of dust and shavings this is because the wood this thin has a tendency to curl up allowing dust to stick to the underside of the slice being scraped and the support because of static. This would create problems getting an even thickness. The amount of wood removed with the scraper is about .002" The finished slice that is .75" wide and .012" thick. The slice easily bends cold and dry around a 1/2 inch radius former. Michael
  6. Kats, what a tremendous difference from the mess you inherited. Your diligence and patience are showing in the superb job that you are doing. Michael
  7. Today I re-sawed some of the Trembling Aspen that I cut down in 2006.I originally cut it into some planks in 2008. the sizes that I cut today were .30" x .075" and .75" x .015", .75" x .020", .75" x .035" I did not try to cut specific thicknesses but just arbitrarily cut thick and thin slices of the boards and then measured them. this picture shows the dry wood the curved piece is the .75" x .020" bent dry it is about a 1.5" radius This picture shows the .75 x .015" cut with a pair of scissors This picture shows the .30" x .075" bent to about a .75" radius after soaking in cold water for 15 minutes. This picture shows .75" x .035" bent round a .25" radius after 15 minutes in cold water This picture shows .75" x .015" bent round a .125" dowel after 15 minutes in cold water This picture shows .75" x .015" bent round some .75" dowel after 15 minutes in cold water Michael
  8. Pete In "Know Your Woods" by Albert Constantine Jr. The entry for Quaking Aspen is Populus tremuloides "This aspen shrinks very little and in bending qualities ranks with the best hardwoods." The entry for Cottonwood,Eastern is Populous deltoides "This tree is known by several other names including ASPEN, COTTONWOOD, CAROLINA POPLAR, WATER POPLAR, YELLOW COTTONWOOD." We have three of the species native to Canada on our 20 acres of property. Quaking Aspen, Black Polar, and Balsam Poplar, they are generally short lived and grow fast. I have some 6 inch diameter logs that are free of checks and are at least 7 years old and dry. I have cut some that is re-sawn and stacked as potential future model building wood. It tends to get fluffy when sanded but smooth as silk when planed by hand. The model that I showed in the other thread on polar was in fact Quaking Aspen, we have a tendency to lump them all in together under the same name. The only way to tell the difference between the different species of polar is by looking at the pore structure in the end grain under a microscope, I am led to believe that the poplar sold commercially is often of mixed species under the common names. This is certainly true of the 50 plus species of White Oak that are sold in North America. White Oak is White Oak right? Michael
  9. Sinan, the Poplar here grows like a weed, in ten years a poplar will grow 15 to to twenty feet, My 20 acres are a mix of Poplar, Birch and Spruce. We are on the edge of the Boreal Forest. I always leave some of the fallen trees for the birds insects and the rest of the natural world for their use. Michael
  10. Beautiful work Ed, very informative. Where did you purchase the fine file and broaches that you show in the picture? they almost remind me of dental broaches. Michael
  11. Ian? I like the model and am looking forward to seeing the one in Boxwood. Michael
  12. Nico, that is a clever trick with the model rail for the window frames. Michael
  13. I have a lot of Poplar on my property and I have used some inside and outside the house we built It dries quite well and small diameter material dries quite fast with little to no checking. I carved this little boat for my grandson out of some poplar that we cut down where the house now stands I will cut some planks and do some tests. we also use it as firewood to keep warm, in out cold winters. Michael
  14. Klaus I'm still picking my jaw up off the floor!! What scale is that? Michael
  15. Doris it is great to be following along with this build. Your model building skills are are amazing and inspirational I am so glad that you are sharing this build with us. Michael
  16. Klaus I think that your method of obtaining the rest of the frame shapes from the lines template is a great one, I shall keep it in mind. Michael
  17. Ed I just get lost for words following what you are accomplishing with your skill and dedication to this craft. Michael
  18. It was this comment John that prompted me get involved with this! Daniel, I hear what you are saying with regard to the smaller scales. Popeye, Sometimes I think I am dreaming too. Thanks for the compliment. Michael
  19. Popeye, Bob, Tim, Thanks for stopping by. Well working on the rudder I did resort to using the optivisor, I try not to use one if I can get away without it. I think that is why I mostly work on large stuff these days, but this was just too much of a fun challenge. The next task that will need some figuring out is to reshape the sheerline to accommodate the bulwarks and to leave the stem proud a little. Michael
  20. Daniel your tutorial on how you are making your ropes was very informative and taught me a great deal thanks for taking the time to document and notate the different types and methods. Michael
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