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dgbot

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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. dgbot
    You are a better man than I am. David B
  2. dgbot
    Looking good keep up the good work. David B
  3. dgbot
    Slowly you are finishing a labor of love and then out comes a fine bottle and a toast to the lady when completed. David B
  4. dgbot
    We use both a rail and we do it free hand to a line. For the thick stuff we would lay out a cut line and run it through the bandsaw. For railroad bridges we would cut 20ft lengths of 1/2 to 1 inch shock pad and we never use a rail or a fence. I would start out at a right angle to the blade but would end up sometime 15 to 20% skew to it when finished. The end product would be inspected plus a 16 minus 0. any closer and I would say it cannot be done A bandsaw is not a precision tool. There are many factors involved. Feed rate material blade size tension and sharpness. After two parts I would replace the blade because it would dull out and start over again. For what you are doing a small table saw would be best. Most of the timbering I did for my Latham was done on my Preac. small but accurate. A bandsaw has a place in a shop but not for finished lumber. David B
  5. dgbot
    Impressive amount of detail and skill. My hat is taken off to you. Fantastic work. David B
  6. dgbot
    A bandsaw takes getting use to each one runs a little different. On the one at work we use a rip fence and take into account the drift for the blade will want go with the grain. This can be alleviated by proper tensioning of the blade for ripping. For the accuracy you are looking for I doubt you will get that. A table saw will do a better job for accuracy. At work we demand a plus or minus 1/16 of an inch for bandsaw dimensions we can get closer but it is a problem. David B
  7. dgbot
    Nice photograph nice piece of rope. David B
  8. dgbot
    Casey's Brass Black works wonders. And brass is easier to work with than steel. David B
  9. dgbot
    When I still had access to my model I used the Byrnes' saw quite a bit. Not a lot of dust. The waste went into the bottom of the saw. I went between that and my Preac because I did not liking changing the blade. I brought some salvaged dieboard maple home to cut down for fixtures. This stuff is 5 p;y and if remember about 5/8 thick. The saw went through it like a hot knife through butter, To me it is must for any one who wants to either scratch or bash a kit. Just be careful of your fingers and use safely. I have to wear a dust mask and will be using it in the back basement when I return. You will find many uses for it with the proper fixtures and jigs. If you have ever watched the Wood Smith Shop on PBS you can see all the uses a table saw can be put to. David B
  10. dgbot
    Looks okay to me Toni, good job David B
  11. dgbot
    When I use mine I do not get much dust it has been a year since I have used it. When I go back to Chicago I will be wearing a dust mask and use a vacuum to take care of the dust. Dust removal is important. If you are catching either a cold or from something else. You should be careful. David B
  12. dgbot
    I have a question for the planking and finishing of the hull of this model. I hope I am not hijacking it. My view is that on a vessel. such as this the hull should be glass smooth with out the run of the planks showing through the finish. Others prefer the run showing. What is your opinion considering you put some effort into the hull? Nicely done so far. David B
  13. dgbot
    You should wright a treatise on rigging Danny I have a feeling it would go over big. David B
  14. dgbot
    Ed, I have a feeling you are either a glutton or punishment or a workaholic. You continue to amaze us. David B
  15. dgbot
    What about doing it with parchment or wax paper like when you are using contact cement? David B
  16. dgbot
    If it is okay I will be bringing a chair as well. The J class yachts had sweet lines and remind me of a fine thoroughbred. David B
  17. dgbot
    I am learning something new everyday David B
  18. dgbot
    The Rattlesnake is a fine looking vessel with god lines and hull. I have seen a few great ones at Manitowoc over the years. I remember helping a modeler bring his in. It started out as a Mamoli but he had the lines and thy did not line up with the bulkheads along with other things so he bashed the kit replacing almost everything using the kit He even reworked the fittings. He told me that he was doing research on the Rattlesnake for may years and decided to build a model of her. Too bad my camera was acting up. So I was not able to get any pictures. David B
  19. dgbot
    Nicely done. David B
  20. dgbot
    The bad thing about a macro lens is that it will show every rough spot and joint that is there. David B
  21. dgbot
    Looking good nicely done. David B
  22. dgbot
    Since your hinges will be blackened you could use a silver bearing solder like Stay-silv. It melts at low temps and can be blackened. I use it every now and then when I d not want to silver solder. Just have to clean up the pat afterwords with a file. David B
  23. dgbot
    Nice looking sails. That is the main reason I prefer not doing them to much work. David B
  24. dgbot
    Your pintles and gudgeons look great, but I do not understand the reasoning for installing the straps underneath the planking. Can you elaborate why the did this? David B
  25. dgbot
    Nice conversion Gil. You were able to not only change the length but the body style as well. David B

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